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BWLServers

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Idaho
  • Interests
    Computers...? Why do you think I'm on this forum :D
  • Occupation
    Military

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  1. BD PROCHOT is the only one, mostly red but flickers yellow occasionally. I'm not very familiar with TS, I appreciate the help. Screenshots attached. Fresh install of Win11, and it's running at that speed in the BIOS as well so it doesn't seem software related.
  2. Brand new system, MSI Pro Z690-A Mobo. BIOS says 100mhz base clock with a CPU ratio of 4, so I'm locked at 400mhz. I've tried adjusting OC settings, resetting defaults, cleared the CMOS, updated the BIOS, nothing. Temps are in the 20s, so it's not throttling. Anyone have any idea what's going on here? Did I just get a bad chip?
  3. Unfortunately. I've tried combos of devices plugged only into a hub, split between the hub and PC, etc. Just updated the BIOS and that didn't help either. I'm gonna wipe it here soon when I upgrade to Win11 and see if that makes a difference.
  4. To preface this, I'm an IT tech, so I've tried all the obvious fixes. Driver reinstallation, BIOS updated to latest version, Windows updates, graphics driver updated, etc. Only thing I haven't done is reinstall Windows which I'll explain below. Gigabyte Aorus 15P YD i7-11800H RTX 3080 32GB memory 1TB NVMe SSD Win10 64bit ANY time I plug in more than 3 USB devices of any kind (laptop only has 3 USB ports so I always have to use a hub) everything starts to wig out, but ONLY when playing games. Seems to be related to high CPU/GPU usage. Mouse and keyboard will cut in and out, headset audio (USB) goes all fuzzy, but nothing ever quits working completely. After about 30sec to 2 min, it all stops and goes back to normal. Nothing I do ever seems to make a difference, whether I reconnect USB devices, unplug stuff, nothing. Just have to ride it out. I've used a USB 2 hub, a USB 3 hub, and a Thunderbolt hub. Does it regardless of what I use. All unpowered though. I'm wondering if this is some sort of power draw issue, or not enough resources for the USB controller? I'm hesitant to reinstall Windows, as I'm active military and setting up CAC access is a pain. I can do it again, just trying to get around it if I can. Anyone have any last-ditch suggestions I can try to nail this down? I don't even see errors in Event Viewer. It's like the computer has no idea it's happening. It used to blue screen whenever the USB would cut out, but that quit after some driver updates.
  5. Awesome, exactly what I needed. Thanks.
  6. Hey so first off, I'm a moron when it comes to stuff like this. But for S&G, I'm trying to learn what I can. I'm looking to pick up this cheapo access control system and mess around with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RRHQR3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1155GBV4DPEXU&psc=1 For obvious reasons, I don't really want to hack into my wall to wire the bastard into 120V. Short of jamming the 2 PSU wires into a wall outlet, is there like an adapter or something that I can screw the PSU wires into and slap into an electrical socket? Or perhaps someone has a different idea altogether. I just want dirt-cheap RFID access control that I can slap on an interior door and play around with.
  7. WOW! Just delidded again and put more liquid metal on (definitely didn't have enough) and temps are down to 45c under load! So much better!!! Thank you!
  8. Yep, same thing. I can only assume I screwed up either the LM application or the thermal paste under the monoblock considering I was getting the same temps before I applied LM.
  9. OK, I'll keep that in mind. I appreciate it. Also, I should clarify. I'm not using the H115i. I've got an EK monoblock with 2x240mm rads. That's why even stock clock load temps are confusing me. This is where I'm at right now. On a 7820x with LM...
  10. Okay. I've never really used XTU before, does it auto-adjust voltage when I bump up the clocks? I dropped everything to default and I'm still sitting around 65c on average on all cores. Even that just seems way too high for this CPU with the cooling setup I have. Perhaps I'm wrong?
  11. Very possible this is the wrong section, I wasn't positive. Watercooling maybe? Anyways... Judging by the overclock database I was just looking at (Looks like another user got 4.8GHz on all 8 cores with an H115i in push/pull...) these temps can't be normal. Just curious if anyone has any suggestions? I'm not new to computers but fairly new to overclocking. Just using Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility, I've got all 8 cores set to 4.2GHz max turbo (only 200mhz over stock clock... no adjustments other than dragging the sliders up from 4GHz) and I'm hovering around 75c under full load. Highest core peaked at 84c. As soon as the system returns to idle, temps drop right down to 35c with the loop warmed up. I've delidded and applied liquid metal (maybe I botched that? I was definitely cautious about applying too much, maybe I didn't use enough? I got full coverage.) Using IC Diamond thermal paste for the monoblock on top of CPU, it's also possible I don't have full coverage there. I guess I'm just curious about the first thing I should check. Anyone got any good suggestions? Did I FUBAR something? I know this CPU is capable of more, especially with LM.
  12. Shit, I'm still running 3.9. Wonder what the changelog was?
  13. You'd be surprised how many people don't have common sense.... lol.
  14. Windows Defender is baseline, it's not designed to be your only anti malware product. If you want free, Avast is good enough. You just have to deal with occasional ads. If you want to pay, Webroot's cheapest option is your best bet. Malwarebytes is great for scanning, it's paid protection is garbage.
  15. I would say wait for 6 months or so. GPU prices may drop? That setup is pretty decent assuming you aren't running out of space. A 1080Ti if you have cash burning a hole in your pocket.
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