Hulster_Hulse
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How do reset the EWS password for a HP m28W printer?
Hulster_Hulse replied to Hulster_Hulse's topic in Networking
Solution that ended up working for me. After following the instructions I could access the EWS via the HP program and being connected to the printer via USB. You will need to follow the instructions below to solve this issue: Turn the printer off. Press and hold down the Down Arrow and the Cancel buttons. Hold the buttons when you turn on the printer. When the Attention light turns on, release the Down Arrow and the Cancel buttons. The initialization starts. When the initialization completes, the printer enters the generic printer mode. -
I'm trying to access my HP m28w printers EWS to change some config options and I cannot remember the password for it. There seems to be no way to reset it as you need to access the system tab in the EWS to reset the printer. Helpfully hp don't tell you what to do in this situation and in all of their forum repsonses they just say that they've DM'd the poster the instructions negating the whole point of the forum post. Their virtual chat support agent is as usless as the printer and they want £25 to phone them once because it's 2 months out of warranty. Any ideas on what to do?
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I recently purchased a HTC vive an I am planning on mounting the base stations to my walls which are plasterboard (drywall). The provided mounting screws seem quite long and are too long to use with the plasterboard (drywall) anchor shown below. They don't seem too heavy just was wondering if anyone has mounted them to plasterboard (drywall) and if they had any success?
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Please reboot and select proper boot drive
Hulster_Hulse replied to Paulino's topic in Troubleshooting
If you don't have anything that's irreplaceable on your drive then yeah. However, if you do have something that's irreplaceable you might have to somewhere for drive recovery. -
I have recently discovered that an iPhone 7 (running iOS 11.4.1) and a Samsung galaxy s7 (running Android 8.0) are near unusable on the 5GHz wifi band. They both get bellow 1Mbps and once the speed test (ookla speed test app) has run for a few seconds they both get up to around 3-5 Mbps but the upload will always go to around the maximum of my wireless speeds (20Mbps). However, my old iPhone 5S (running iOS 11.4.1) will get 70-80Mbps on the 5GHz wifi band so this leaves me even more confused as to why 2 newer phones are getting significantly worse speeds on the wifi band that they prefer. I have run speed tests on all 3 devices on both bands and have provided screenshots below. I have also provided screenshots of my router's (D-LINK DSL-3782) settings. iPhone 5s speed tests https://imgur.com/a/Q9lxZA3 iPhone 7 speed tests https://imgur.com/a/igwOzPX Samsung Galaxy S7 speed tests (low battery but was charging) https://imgur.com/a/hZLcbaG Router D-LINK DSL-3782 settings (imgur wouldn't let me upload for another 55 minutes so I've attached the images below) Any help is appreciated Thanks Edit: I have now discovered that an iPhone 6s (running iOS 11.4.1) is also having the same issue
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I know this power supply is old now but I still have one in my build. I've always known about the RM 550s corsair link capabilities but never really gave it too much thought. However, I have recently become curious with how much power my PC actually uses and whether switching to a more efficient power supply like a hx750i would make too much of a difference. I live in the UK and the only retailer I could find who stocked the CORSAIR Link Analog to Digital Bridge Cable for RM Series™ PSUs was SCAN which has EOL'd it. I can't find anything on eBay so I was wondering if anyone knew where else they could be being sold or another way I could monitor my PCs power usage. Any help appreciated.
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No internet access error but I have internet access
Hulster_Hulse replied to Hulster_Hulse's topic in Troubleshooting
system reset fixed the issue -
No internet access error but I have internet access
Hulster_Hulse replied to Hulster_Hulse's topic in Troubleshooting
The issue started happening a while ago intermittently though but today is when I couldn't get rid of it with a reboot. I have been able to remove the annoying yellow triangle with a system restore however, I am now getting error code 0x80072EE7 on the windows store. -
Its been 3 hours now of rooting through websites and trying to get something out of Microsoft (with no success) to find a fix and none have worked (that I could find). I have internet access but because windows is giving this error some apps such as the windows store are saying they cannot connect. I have tried the network troubleshooting tool numerous times and it only resets my network settings and tells me to reboot to fix with no effect whatsoever (other than resetting all of my DNS settings). So I have come here as a last resort before I just reset windows. Any help is appreciated Thanks Edit: I am using windows 10 64bit with an ethernet connection, on a home network, and have a built-in killer ethernet E2200 NIC.
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installed the drivers, however, I just learned that even small bits of dust can make your mouse act weird so I'm going to try and give it a clean with a Q-tip and see what happens.
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This has been happening for a month by now and some fixes work but for only a couple of hours. I'll be playing a game or just browsing the internet and my mouse will freeze without warning whenever I lift it off the desk or move is somewhat quickly (flicking in a game). However, sometimes there is no issue with the mouse and it works perfectly fine. I've tried the mouse (Roccat Kone Pure) on another computer and it doesn't freeze at all no matter how fast I move it. I'm guessing it's something to do with my computer or Windows. Any help is appreciated Thanks
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Heres a better example of the issue
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The light you can see at the top is just the light from my room reflecting off of the glossy frame. It hasn't ever been disassembled and only moved to put a better monitor where it was and no one else has access to it I have also noticed after coming back from work that there seems to be some ghosting and jitter like the refresh rate is really low However, I found a receipt for it which has a 3-year warranty which covers product failure and accidental damage so I'm just going to take it there and see what they say and hopefully get a replacement.
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I turned my PC on this morning and noticed when I turned on my LED monitor something wasn't quite right. It was as if there was a grey gradient going from the bottom up. Every article I've looked at says that they experience patches but I have a consistent gradient. The monitor is an Acer G227HQL 1080p 21 inch 60Hz and is 2 years old. I have never seen this before in a monitor and I am quite puzzled as to why this may have happened. Update: I have cleaned the monitor and now this effect is only on the edges( the glare is just from the camera the issue is the greenish bar)
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thanks for your advice I was just curious what the differences actually were.I didn't know that any coolant could be any colour.
