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DarkWater

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  1. Sounds normal then. Mine is the same. I think Task Manager reports more of an average. The CPU is normally constantly bouncing between 2.8-4.4GHz on mine. Task Manager doesn't show this and instead just shows values between 4-4.2GHz most of the time. For accurate CPU monitoring, use HWINFO64 (tick sensors-only box at launch).
  2. I've been reading about Ryzen FIT voltages and I was curious to see what my CPU's FIT voltage is. I ran Prime95 small FFTs and have attached a screenshot of the data on HWINFO64. The SVI2 TFN sensor was mostly hovering around the 1.244-1.27V range. However, I do see it dropped to 1.225V at one point. Do I go by the max voltage reported or the lowest? I set PBO to "enabled" in the BIOS and left other CPU settings at auto. I still have XMP enabled, but I don't think that'd interfere. My cooler is the Noctua D15S. Room temperature at time of test was between 19.9-20.1C. Just wondering if this looks right, or if there's perhaps anything that might be limiting the voltage.
  3. Update: Above test got to 260% coverage with no errors before I stopped the test. I ran memtest86 via bootable USB for a total of 6 hours (did x2 4 pass tests) and that also returned zero errors. This is all with XMP enabled. It previously failed test 7 both times, so going 6 hours with no errors is a very promising sign. That RAM stick switch appears to have done something. I am going to continue running tests when the PC isn't in use just to make sure no errors pop up. I'll then have to closely monitor BSOD's. Identifying if the BSODs have disappeared will take time as they weren't a constant occurrence. This'll probably take several months to be sure of. Good thing I had a spare stick in an unused machine that happened to be the same as the sticks I was using. The stick that I didn't put back appears to work fine on its own. Looks to be some weird issue with dual channel only.
  4. So I ran one stick at 2933MHz with XMP on. Fired up HCI Memtest and let it run to about 90% coverage. No errors were seen. I then took out the spare RAM I had in my unused PC and inserted that into slot 4. I'm now using the recommended slot 2 and 4 configuration. So far the test has hit 75% coverage with no errors. This looks good considering it's not made it this far in this test with XMP enabled. Hopefully it stays that way. I'm confused though since both sticks worked fine individually. Can a faulty stick work fine in single channel, but start failing in dual channel? It sounds possible.
  5. Well, I got to about 70% coverage before an error showed on one thread in the slot 1/3 configuration. This was at stock settings. I then turned on XMP and set RAM to 2933MHz manually. Ran HCI and errors appeared on multiple threads after about 3% coverage. Not good. As I was stopping the test, my PC froze and was followed by a "KERNAL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE" BSOD. I'm now running individual sticks at 2933MHz with XMP enabled and no errors so far. I've yet to try running 16GB in single channel. That's probably something I need to check. It's still looking strictly like a dual channel issue rather than the RAM itself. I do have 1 spare RAM that matches these two sticks. It's sitting in an unused machine. However, I've not tried it because it doesn't seem like I'm dealing with bad sticks. If I was, wouldn't the failures show up like they do when running dual channel? This is looking like it's going to be difficult to resolve. I was hoping for a simple stick issue. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it's that. It is possible my CPU or motherboard might be having difficulties running dual channel memory. If true, that's going to suck.
  6. So far it's made it to 55% coverage on all threads which is the furthest I've got using the sticks in dual channel mode at stock settings. This is with the sticks in slots 1 and 3. Previous configuration was slot 2 and 4, as recommended by the board manual. Looking good, but too early to tell. I've at least made progress it seems. If it gets to about 70%, I'll try XMP. I'll then run more extended tests just to make sure. I'm only focusing on a low coverage now as the errors consistently appeared early. My RAM is a pair. Same speeds, same brand and same model number.
  7. I'm at stock settings. From testing so far, it's looking like a dual channel issue. I've tested the sticks individually in both the slots that are normally in use. I got to 70% coverage with no errors. On dual channel, I always get an error within about 30% coverage on one instance/thread. I'm now trying the sticks in slots 1 and 3 (recommended is 2 and 4) to check if there's any difference. I doubt it, but worth a shot.
  8. I ran Memtest86 twice (4 passes each) at my current settings and some errors appeared on test 7. First run returned 2 errors on CPU 13 and the 2nd had 7 errors on CPU 13. Both on test 7 only. I then ran HCI Memtest to see what that showed. One instance always errors out after around 10-30% coverage. After this, I slowly returned my settings to stock (remove PBO and XMP). It still error'd out rather quickly on one instance. I'm guessing I might have a bad stick of RAM? I suppose the play here would be to boot with one stick and re-run HCI. See if it still errors out? How much memory do I need to test on HCI? Can allocating too much cause errors on one instance, or does it not matter? Just want to ensure I'm not chasing a false positive or something.
  9. I've recently been getting some BSOD's that pop up. It started in around November 2020 and has been ongoing since. Due to the infrequent nature of the BSOD's, I've not really bothered to try troubleshooting it as it's way too random and not frequent enough. However, it feels like the BSOD's are getting more frequent now and it's prompting me to look into it. The main BSOD I am getting is "KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED". I'll be using my PC as normal and suddenly I'll see a short freeze before the BSOD appears. My PC restarts and is fine most of the time afterwards. Today, I got a "SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED" BSOD. I don't see this one very often, it's mainly the KMODE one. About 16 minutes later after my PC rebooted, I got another BSOD, the usual KMODE one. I can be gaming, or even watching a video and it'll happen. There's no set activity that triggers it. I can also be fine for days or even weeks before it reappears. It used to be infrequent. It feels like it's getting more frequent now though. Is there anyway to track the problem down? All the BSOD's reference "ntoskrnl.exe". From research, it seems like something that generically appears. My main specs are as follows: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X - PBO is on Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 RAM at 3000MHz GPU: Nvidia GTX 1050Ti 4GB SC by EVGA Drives: Crucial MX300 275GB for boot drive and some standard drives for additional storage space (a 2TB and 1TB). Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC OS version: Windows 10 (OS Build 19041.685) I tried lowering my RAM speed to 2933MHz, but the BSOD still appeared. I've not done much troubleshooting because it used to be infrequent enough to not be concerning. Since it's now starting to appear more often than I'd like, I feel like I need to try and find the culprit. If you need any information from me to help diagnose the problem, I can provide you with it. I'm quite tech-savvy, but when it comes to troubleshooting BSOD's, I just get lost because of all the possible causes of them. I used BlueScreenView and WhoCrashed to try make sense of the minidumps, but they aren't really being that helpful. I'm not entirely sure how to make sense of the data it's showing.
  10. That sounds odd tbh. When I UV, the fans run like normal. Although, I'm able to control my fans via the manufacturer's utility. Maybe it only applies to some laptops. I've not heard of it before and no amount of research I do seems to turn up anything about the dangers of undervolting. Does your laptop not have any software that allows you to take control of the fans?
  11. I'll need to buy some since I don't have anything suitable readily available. Would something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-function-Gripping-Extractors-non-slip-neji-saurus/dp/B00NBSVYOY/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=screw+extraction+pliers&qid=1589854395&s=automotive&sr=1-5-catcorr# work?
  12. Sounds like the BIOS got corrupted. This is an unfortunate risk when upgrading the BIOS, especially if the machine has no backup BIOS' or something like USB BIOS Flashback. If the wrong BIOS version gets flashed or it gets corrupted in any way, this can render the machine useless. Without the firmware, the laptop doesn't know what to do when it turns on because the firmware it needs is no longer present. It will just sit there indefinitely on a black screen until it's switched off. Your laptop doesn't appear to have any backup BIOS' or USB BIOS Flashback. I don't think laptops have USB BIOS Flashback or even backup BIOS' like some desktop boards have. The best option is replacing the motherboard.
  13. You probably need to increase the fan speeds. I have an i7 8750H in mine and it gets pretty damn hot really fast. I re-pasted it numerous times and each time barely made that much of a difference. The 3rd re-paste did seem to lower temperatures a little bit, however. This is what my HWMonitor looks like when doing nothing: It's undervolted by -0.134v on both core and cache through Throttlestop. I did lower the clock speeds a little bit as well. That helped it run much cooler. My CPU fan is running at 70% speed (set by me - it's not as loud as having them at 100% and it seems to help things). It goes to 100% at about 80c or so. Did a quick search of your model and it does seem like some people are reporting having issues with thermals. Some laptops do just run really hot. Undervolting and re-pasting helps, but only to a point. Some laptops unfortunately do have poorer cooling. I think mine is one of them. Yours may be as well. EDIT: I turned down my fan speed to 20% just for fun and I see the package hit a max of 87C and I didn't do anything on it (just some background processes most likely). So I am guessing your high temperatures are just down to fan speed being too low.
  14. As you probably see from the image, a screw on the GPU heatsink has stripped and is now impossible to remove with any of the screwdrivers I have. Is there any way to safely remove this without causing damage to the motherboard?
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