Squanchy

2060 should be just fine, I just looked it up on the UK amazon site. I even edited it to deliver to romania. (looked up a random 2022 benchmark for the screenshot below so it shows everything). Also, Technically I'm more of a AMD guy now, but looking at the UK amazon site, its a bit hard to find stuff in stock. But this should be more then enough.
 

 
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-GeForce-Express-1365MHz-1785MHz-14000MHz/dp/B07V1Y6Y2J/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3HOOLH9RTSKL3&keywords=6600&qid=1667937437&refinements=p_76%3A419159031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&sprefix=6600%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-8
 
 
For comparison:
 

 
 

At 1440P, yeah there's not really a reason to go above a 6900 XT. Personally daily one of those cards at 4K60, and the only setting that can't max out at native res is MSAA. At 1440P 144Hz it should be pretty much the same situation. 

Yep, you could probably keep that 1070Ti for 1440p too a bit longer probably.  🙂
 
But what's the fun in that?!

In that case yeah.

Just to finalize this. I went ahead and splurged on some Eero pro 6e units. Loving them. Getting ~800 down 900~ up now.
 
Thank you everyone 

Just to finalize this. I went ahead and splurged on some Eero pro 6e units. Loving them. Getting ~800 down 900~ up now.
 
Thank you everyone 

Just to finalize this. I went ahead and splurged on some Eero pro 6e units. Loving them. Getting ~800 down 900~ up now.
 
Thank you everyone 

Do a few things 
 
- Clean your fans
 
- replace thermal paste
 
- set a fan curve
 
- Undervolt

95c is normal. 
Laptops will go nearly to 100c, sometimes sitting right there, its by design.

That worked... Thanks a lot!

Try with AOMEI Partition Assistant.

Looks amazing, Congrats on the build!

you cant do 4k hdr 444 60htz 10bit on hdmi......you can do 444 60htz 8bit or 422 60htz 8bit....444 30htz 10bit (barely with good cable)...422 30htz 10bit
even then, 6ft cable recommend max (longer needs booster or active hdmi)...hdmi right now just doesnt have the bandwidth

Hey all,
 
Want to understand this fully and get this figured out..
 
I am wanting the best possible picture out of my 4k tv (Samsung 55in MU8000), Supports up to 10bit and has HDR.
In nvidia settings when I am at the color settings what exactly do I set everything at? RGB then full output dynamic range? If so, That only gives 8bpc apparently.  Or do I use YCbCr422 and then use 10 bpc? That leaves the output dynamic range only to limited...
 
Anyone wanna help me with this? Thanks!

All my overclocks that I am using now on my 2080 ti are so I don't freeze in games.
To give you an example I use only plus 100 on my FTW3 Ultra so the game Control does not freeze. The overclock I had on before that was plus 117 because Fallout 4 freezes if I go higher. I basically lower the overclock until it stops freezing. 
 
For Outer Worlds the Control overclock worked and since I am playing it on my 3840 X 1600 ultrawide my frames are in the high 90s on ultra.  
 
The only way around it is to get the frames back somewhere else. 
The easiest way is to add more overclock to the vram. I use plus 800 because that is all I need but I could go higher.
At 4k I remove all anti aliasing to get frames.
 
What does not work is going 5.1 on the CPU unless it is an old single core game. 
 
I never had to do this with my 1080 ti or 980 ti. Back then it was the CPU doing the freezing.
 

You're OC was unstable then if it was causing the game to crash. Could also verify that your drivers are up to date as well. If you havent lately, I would suggest running DDU and re-installing fresh and clean as well.

That's up to you. I personally would go for the 2060.
 
But if you're with a 60hz monitor and only are playing fortnite, then get the cheaper one. Both of these are going to produce 120+ fps at 1080p at max settings.
 
@SpookyCitrus has a valid point as well. If the 1070 is used, another reason to go for the 2060.

If the 2060 is brand new I'd go for that. There is a risk to buying used cards, and that 1070 is probably almost out of warranty.

Hmm. I haven't updated the bios or installed the chipset drivers. I'll do that and see if it improves system stability. Thanks.

Yea that sounds like a dying fan..

An R5 3600 will be faster for gaming.

Should step up to an RX 5700 as it's more like a 2070 at $299 for the blower at least, can be improved.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/n6XYcf/asrock-radeon-rx-5700-8-gb-video-card-radeon-rx-5700-8g
Or it's $30 more for a dual fan model.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tt7p99/xfx-radeon-rx-5700-8-gb-dd-ultra-video-card-rx-57xl8lbd6

What's your current system? and your monitor resolution/refresh rate?

Probably want a nicer PSU as well just for the long run.

Prices are up due to the trade war and some other stuff though.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kz7CmG/evga-power-supply-210gq0650

A $10 USB DAC fixed that problem for me while providing better sound quality compare to my onboard audio. 

yes, bento boxes are quite delicious but I fail to see how this has anything to do with your motherboard.

how tf would it boot without a CPU

Either way works, With the 6+2, you can just not use the +2 on the cable and just tuck it away, OR you can use two separate cables to have a cleaner look. Either way.