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About Draydince

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling


  • CPU
    i5 4690 3.5ghz (Soon to be i7 4790k)
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte z97x sli
  • RAM
    16gb Gskill Ripjaw
  • GPU
    Evga GTX 970 SSC
  • Case
    Apevia Dreamer x4 (Green)
  • Storage
    1tb Western Digital Blue
  • PSU
    Corsair Cx 600

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  1. I've been looking for a very specific type of monitor for a long time: 24inch or 25 inch, but not 27 inch. 27 inch is too big for my desk. High refresh (100+, does not necessarily have to be 144hz) IPS or VA, not TN Non curved, this one is especially important. Curve is too distracting for me. Any resolution 1080p or above. I know this is extremely specific, but I haven't been following monitors to know if such a thing exists in recent times. There is only one monitor in existence that I'm aware of that meets these specifications, and it is no longer made. It's from a German company named Eizo, and the monitor model is Foris FG2421 It's 120hz (240hz boost, but 120 is perfectly fine for me) 24 inch, non curved, VA. It's like the holy grail for me, but since it's been out of production for a while... Please don't bother saying "just get curved" or "just get 27 inches"
  2. I mostly agree. Although it is pretty close to regular SSD speeds for the most frequented games you play. If you only play like 3 games, those get cached to the faster portion of the drive - but if you have a lot, then at that point you're better off with mechanical for sure. Though boot times are appreciably better. The only thing that I'm really considering is the psychological aspect of it. Seeing the word Solid State is just such a hypetrain word these days, that I question if it would make someone more likely to buy something. Especially considering that if they're looking for an entire computer on Craigslist, it's probably not someone comfortable enough to build their own and those hype words might have a bigger impact on them. Kind of like people being convinced that gold plated HDMi is substantially better than non.
  3. I'll be upgrading to a new motherboard/cpu combo soon, and after swapping out those parts I'll have enough spare parts to put together a 2nd pc except for a form of storage. I'll be buying a brand new drive to complete the old computer (Really don't want to skimp a few dollars and buy a used drive that could be potentially end of life) If you were buying a computer, which would you be more likely to buy? One with a 500gb Solid State Hard drive (SSHD) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822179112&cm_re=500gb_sshd-_-22-179-112-_-Product Or one with a regular 1TB HDD https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339&cm_re=1tb_hdd-_-22-236-339-_-Product Both cost roughly the same, and $50 is about as much as I'm willing to spend on a part that I'm just going to putting into something to sell. And I'm aware you can get a 120gb SSD for the same price, but that's not even worth considering without having a 2nd drive to compensate for the lack of storage. On the one hand the extra speed is nice of a SSHD (I have the 1tb version of that model linked) but Craigslist browsers might see the 500gb capacity and be turned away from it. Just the same, they might see the fact that the 1tb drive is a slow mechanical and get turned away just the same. Which would you choose?
  4. I've been gaming on a 144hz TN panel, and the colors are pretty meh. They're accurate enough, but they're quite dull and washed out in comparison to IPS. It was starting to get on my nerves, so I bought an IPS panel. I plugged them both into my gtx 1080 to compare how different the IPS truly was, but when both are plugged in at the same time it seems like the gamma gets screwy. I have it set to mirror displays through Windows but the TN panel which is a 24 inch 1080p seems like its gamma gets jacked up very high when dual displays are plugged in. The IPS is 27 inch 1440p. I've tried changing the res to 1080 and 1440p, and no matter what there seems to be a gamma issue when both are plugged in. There's no issue with either monitor, they both look fine plugged in individually. Both are plugged into seperate Displayports. Is there something obvious I'm missing as to why the gamma seems to increase more on the 24 inch when both are plugged in? I really want to compare side by side to see if the IPS is really worth the extra $200 and so far the only thing I can do is plug one in, stare at an image, unplug it, plug the other in, and stare at the same image on the other screen and hope that my mind isn't being biased when I compare by memory.
  5. It's the width that's the problem, my desk is in a cramped space and the monitor has to be somewhat close to me. I'd have to physically turn my head side to side to see.
  6. I was only speaking on the strictest technicality of literal names, but yeah. Like I said, I'd be fine with that monitor but the curve is what does it away for me.
  7. Are there smaller than 27 inch monitors that are IPS, and above 100hz? It doesn't particularly need to be 144hz, but preferably at least triple digits. The way my desk is set up I would have to physically turn my head side to side to fully see a 27 inch screen. I know there are a ton of 24 inch 144hz TN panels. I'm using one right now. The smoothness is great, but I really can't handle the colors. Mostly the whites have an eggshell color. It's not super horrible while gaming, but browsing is very noticeable. The closest thing I can find to matching my needs is this https://www.amazon.com/Pixio-PX245c-Adaptive-1920x1080-Professional/dp/B072K3Z5NC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1512981598&sr=8-13&keywords=144hz+ips - while it's not IPS, it's definitely better than a TN panel. The problem is with how close my desk is to where I sit, I really feel like I would notice the curve and it would drive me crazy, so I would prefer to find something that's "flat" for lack of better description. I also don't care if it's Freesync/Gsync, 1080p or 1440p. Really the size is my main concern. I also don't know how I all the sudden started typing in lines, but this is my life now.
  8. Thanks for the reply. It seems to be working now after rotating the fan back to exhaust, and giving every plug a push. I'm thinking more than likely just something needed a good nudge back into position, but I'm wondering if my rear being mounted as intake while my cpu cooler is blowing as exhaust could have caused a heat pocket causing momentary overheating during boot or something.
  9. I recently got a 750w EVGA G3 Modular PSU that was for sale on Black Friday. I was replacing an older Corsair CX 750w that didn't have any issues, but I liked the idea of a gold modular psu. Plus it was only $70 so I figured that was too good a deal to pass up. I got everything put together, and it made it to the post screen. I thought Ok cool, I'm in the clear. But then when it tried to log into Windows, it would all the sudden loose GPU signal and I would have to hard shut off. I did accidentally install my rear exhaust fan reverse as an intake out of a moment of clumsy through the 100's of other pieces that were going in/out. I took that fan out and swapped it back to exhaust, and while I had the case open I gave every cable a quick little nudge just to make sure everything was pushed in all the way. It's working now, but obviously the fact that it's a brand new PSU I have some concerns: Could the fact that I had my exhaust as an intake have created a potential heat-pocket (I have 2 fans blowing exhaust towards the rear) and maybe it was just briefly overheating and losing signal? I know nudging the cables could have very well done the trick, but I want to look at every possibility to decide if I have a dud PSU or not.
  10. Yeah, already bought it. I sold my GTX 1070 for $360 and got the 1080 for $400 I figure the $40 is worth the upgrade.
  11. I recently got a pretty good deal on a used Gigabyte G1 gtx 1080 for $400 off Craigslist, but I'm a little uneasy about the warranty. Does anyone know how Gigabyte handles 2nd hand owners? I know EVGA honors the warranty based on when the card was purchased and not by who purchased it, but I'm not as familiar with Gigabyte. I like the price I got for it, but that possibility of something going wrong and being out $400 is pretty scary.
  12. I've been using an FX 8350 and Gigabyte GA-990fxa-UD3 rev: 1 motherboard as a temporary place holder since I sold my 4790k, and I'm having an issue with the voltage not sticking. There is no static mode for this motherboard, you're only able to change the offset voltage by +/- .25 at a time. I'm getting ready to sell it, and took my main cpu cooler off it to transfer to my future build, and put an old Deepcool Gammaxx 200 cpu cooler on it in the mean time. It's obviously not a great cooler by any means, but I would at least say it's a slight step up over the stock FX 8350 cooler which itself was "good enough" for stock settings. The issue is the voltage spikes quite high, up to 1.35 (high, as in, high for stock speeds and a weaker cooler. I realize these can safely go higher) - i'm not overclocking at all. In fact, I've "underclocked" it a bit, disabling turbo boost leaving it at a static 4ghz. As a result of the higher voltage, the temps reach 60-70c while gaming and that's wayyy too hot for this chip. (I've already re-applied thermalpaste/reseated the cooler twice, the same temps occur each time) I've tried lowering the voltage multiple times, .25, .50 etc and no matter what i set it to, it just completely ignores it. I'm updated to the latest bios, have tried both with and without cool and quiet/power saving features enabled and disabled. I realize this is an ancient board being AM3+ and all, but I'm hoping I'll get lucky and someone else may have had this issue/know a fix.
  13. There we go! Thanks. I was looking directly for C:\Windows\Color
  14. Hmm, I don't seem to have a color folder under my Windows Folder. It goes from Cursors to Debug.