AshleyAshes

Probably, yes. But it's still important that the OP define the situation definitively.

Prrrrrrobably not? I think most MOBO firmware's these days allow you to use a USB key and flash from within the UEFI so it'd only need to POST. I say 'Most' cause there's always some company that likes to make a SUPER terrible set of menus and screw the consumer. You'll need to consult the mobo manual first for it's listing of firmware update procedures.

https://photographypla.net/three-point-studio-lighting/

Probably? I'm not entirely 100% sure what EVERY lossless format that YouTube supports is. But it should support a wide range and it should be possible to Google it. Just google a format and see if YouTube supports it. Though note, Pro Res is lossy though it's a lot LESS Lossy than h.264. The most important thing is to avoid needless lossy compression if possible. That all said, your actual CONTENT is much more important than the compression quality. Don't let technical specifics distract you from making quality content that people want to consume.

So you didn't answer a single thing I asked. Is this like a SINGLE CONSUMER internet connection and just consumer hardware running it the same way it would in a house with many bedrooms? Because, to be clear, there are entire apartment COMPLEXES that have single contracts for internet service and the ISPs essentially give each unit their own dedicated internet connection, with external IP, and there is no real 'LAN' where people could snoop on other people's network activity. So which is this?

'Normal' would depend ENTIRELY on the flash drive in question, which you have provided zero information on. Some flash drives use some pretty bargain basement components.

I mean... I really don't know what to do with your comprehension issues at this point. I see no benefit in continuing this.

Due to the way HD CRTs work the answer is basically no. They do additional processing for the most part on a 480i signal that that means that the electron gun does not draw the way that an SD CRT works. (They try to deinterlace 480i signals first) HOWEVER there are very FEW games that support 480 over component a handful on a few consoles. On PS2 for example, I think Vampire Night is the ONLY Guncon game with 480p output, The few Xbox ones should as well since it natively supported 480p on everything. And still THAT will only work on SOME TVs. Feel free to hit Google, you'll find a big wall with only a few exceptions in getting light guns to work on ORIGINAL hardware on HD CRTs. Meanwhile, everything you're asking about here is just NOT going to happen on an all in one box for $189.99. You can try to 'poke holes from your view of ignorance' but you are far, far, FAR from the first person to look at the topic of light guns on HD CRTs and you will not be the one person who goes 'AH HA! I found a technical loop hole that just no one thought of before!'

Because the clock signal inside an HDMI signal doesn't tell the TV when to draw on the screen like a analog video into a CRT does. The clock is there for data communications purposes, in the end it's just pushing a stream of RGB frames. The TV can then do as it pleases with those frames, with TVs doing a range of post processing and buffering as they desire. The clock signal from an HDMI signal is NOT the command 'You will draw EXACTLY RIGHT NOW' like it is in an analog system.

Okay... Let's explain the fundamentals here: Cathode Ray Timing is used on a LOT of light guns. Basically the hardware is presented to the sync signal for the screen, usually pulled from the composite video signal or from inside the hardware somehow. (Fun fact, classic 'fat' Xbox has a 5th pin on the controller ports JUST to provide sync signal to the light guns). With this signal the gun knows exactly WHEN the screen starts bring refreshed. The TV relies on the electron gun where an electromagnetic yolk aims the gun, allowing it to scan across all of the pixels and illuminate them. The gun waits until the electron gun beam flashes RIGHT down it's barrel and then it does basic math. When did the electron gun start it's cycle? When did the light gun see see the electron? From doing the math between those two values along with the calibration data, it is able to determine X,Y information and tell the system where in terms of X,Y that the gun was 'pointed'. This allows the gun to update constantly as well which means mouse like movement using the gun to direct a cursor. The console and the TV are a fixed system with the video signal driving the timing of the TV. Get it? Both the TV and the gun being on analog video are CRITICAL here. If you use a TV, even if it is CRT, with an HDMI video signal, then the screen is not refreshing in sync with the clock of the console. The CRT with HDMI will be using it's own clock to drive it's refresh cycle. As a result it is not possible for a Cathode Ray Timing gun to work on a TV that has an HDMI input, ANY kind of HDMI input. The precision is important here. The electron gun scans from the top right to bottom left of the screen every 16.7ms, so the gun is doing math WITHIN that 16.7ms just to figure out when the electron gun starts scanning and when it sees the beam. Bonus fun fact: In television broadcasting all your cameras need to be on the same clock. We call this 'Genlock' so all cameras, VRT decks and anything else are being fed a signal from a central clock and they all scan in sync with those to ensure every piece of hardware is synced up when going through the video switcher.

Firstly, how shared is it? If it's an entire apartment building it's fairly unlikely that the internet just goes into one consumer type router and there's a bajillion switches to each apartment. It's quite possible that each resident has their own external IP address and access to any other tenants connections or network is impossible.

I tried a million things but it turned out that the UEFI firmware was using different command rates for different channels, manually set them all to 2T and boom. >_>;;;;;;;

1) It seemingly doesn't HAVE one. 2) For composite video there is ONE cable that feeds that, everything is in there, color, luminescence, the sync, all of it. You would need to somehow swap out the sync signal... But now you are carrying a composite video signal with a sync signal from something else. Now you broke the video signal. You would need to build the Super NT with native composite output basically which it has omitted because it's 2018 and if you want to play SuperNES games on a Standard def CRT over composite video you could use a SUPER NES TO DO IT. What someone could MAYBE do is make a third party Superscope that used LED trackers for modern TVs and then just spit out the data the SNES expected as input but that's a whole new peripheral and well out of the scope of the Super NT itself.

It would be impossible, unlike the NES Zapper, the Superscope uses something called 'Cathode Ray Timing'. For Cathode Ray Timing to work you need access to the analog video output's sync signal so that the gun knows exactly when a draw cycle has begun. Since the machine is only outputting HDMI and has no analog outputs, even if you had the hardware inside running a 'dummy' analog video output just to have a sync signal to provide the Superscope hardware, the video output would not match that. If you used an HDMI to composite adapter, that adapter wold then be doing the conversion on it's own and generating it's own independent sync signal which would not be the same as the sync signal from within the Super NT itself, so the gun would never work right.

I didn't say that. ...I just love the 'idiot proof graphic'.

Who owns a 4K screen and then uses a tiny thumbnail stretched out as their wallpaper?

I love how the image makes it clear, without any written language, that you can't use it to convert composite to HDMI.

This is going to depend very much on the flash drive. Just beause the USB bus is capable of certain speeds, that doesn't mean that the controller and memory on the stick will go that fast.

https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2018/02/amd-sending-out-free-processors-to-solve-firmware-flashing-catch-22/ So uhh... Apparently AMD will SEND you a cheap CPU to boot and flash your mobo, for free, as part of a kit to solve this problem. That's a first. Also, I'd like to point out that the Ars Technica article also uses the term 'Catch-22'. CAUSE THAT IS A THING AND I'M NOT WEIRD. D:

Considering the cost of a DP MST Hub, I think it'd be cheaper to just add another graphics card and use both at the same time.

Yeah, this is a clockgen issue, right? This card only has two clock generators so it can only run up to two DVI/HDMI connections at once.

Voyager has a lot of problems mind you. The whole premise was this long journey home but the series ultimately is 'home is so far away but maybe we'll find a short cut!' for every episode until the finale where 'STUFF HAPPENED AND EARTH, YAY!' Not to mention what that show did to the Borg where having ONE liberated Borg with individuality was all they needed to counter the ENTIRE Borg threat that was an unstoppable killing machine in the franchise until then. Between TNG, DS9 and VOY, VOY is for sure the weakest series.

So, I both work in the film industry and I've actually done some technical experiments with YouTube as to the most ideal to upload. So let's cover some core ideas: 1) YouTube will transcode EVERYTHING you upload. So no matter what you submit, it will go through a lossy compression pass bu YouTube as it conforms your upload to the many formats it can distribute. 2) Every time you transcode something lossy to a lossy format you incur additional loss. Period. There's no way to avoid it. It's like photocopying a photo copy. So let's look at your typical work flow: Video game footage captured to a lossy format, typically h.264. Camera footage from an affordable camera that also likely encodes to h.264. Now you edit your video and export. Most 'guides' to exporting for youtube have you using... LOSSY VIDEO. So you are all your lossy source footage is going through another lossy pass. Now you upload to YouTube again... Right, as we said above, lossy compression. The main goal here would be to minimise lossy passes. Though cameras that capture raw or to at least a higher quality edit friendly lossy format like MJPEG will cost you more money. If you have the storage and IO bandwidth you can also capture your game footage losslessly. Also you can upload losslessly to YouTube. YouTube is built on FFMPEG's open source decoding system so it can read some CRAZY weird formats. h.264 is NORMALLY considdered lossy BUT it HAS a lossless mode. Efficiency speaking you could export say RAW AVI or something as a temporary file from your program and even just Handbrake could encode a lossless h.264 file with FLAC audio (It would STILL be 4:2:0 but otherwise lossless) Or you could export as FFMPEG's FFV1 instead. All of these are lossless and while you'll have a MUCH larger file to upload to YouTube but you'll take a lossy pass out of your workflow. In the film industry we basically don't do lossy compression until it's time to broadcast/distribute the media.

Yeah but can't you juts reactivate them by phone? I've had to do this before, but all of my keys I got 'free' from College (As in the cost was somewhere in my tuition, NOT piracy) so they are all bog standard Win7 and Win 8 keys that you can use to install on any hardware, but sometimes during hardware upgrades I had to call in for reactivation but it's a pretty straight forward process.

Though to add to this more meaningfully, SOME games not to long ago tied the game logic to the refresh rate and some console games still do this too. This is why some 30fps locked games can't be updated to 60fps without breaking a lot of things (FFX on PC basically breaks some game aspects with hacks to run it at 60hz) or others just run stupid fast. A bit older bu fun story, back in the CRT days only a crazy person who hated their eyeballs ran a CRT at 60hz. 75 or 85hz was more common to minimize screaming. Outrun 2006 Coast to Coast assumed 60fps so it'd run some 40%+ faster on an 85hz display