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Shimejii

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  • Posts

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About Shimejii

  • Birthday Apr 03, 1995

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    Shimejii

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NY
  • Interests
    Gaming, Computer building, Computer fixing.
  • Occupation
    College
  • Member title
    Gamer and Computer Magician

System

  • CPU
    5800x3D (RIP 5930k), Upgraded from 3800x.
  • Motherboard
    x570 Aorus Master
  • RAM
    32 Gb DDR4 3600 CL 16 Ram
  • GPU
    3090TI Zotac AMP HALO Old GPU: 1080 ti MSI DUKE 11G/ MSI Gaming 980ti 6G
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Pro
  • Storage
    500 GB Samsung 850 Evo+ 1 Tb HDD+ 480 GB NVME+ 750 GB Corsair SATA + 500 GB 970 EVO
  • PSU
    850 G2 Supernova Platinum
  • Display(s)
    Acer XB270HU 144hz 2560x1440p + Dell 144hz 2560x1440 27"
  • Cooling
    NH-D15
  • Keyboard
    K65 Corsair Cherry MX Red
  • Mouse
    PCMR Mouse D
  • Sound
    Sennhesier HD 6xx+ FiiO k5 PRO
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 pro
  • Phone
    Galaxy Note 9
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

4,993 profile views
  1. Its REALLY not worth it at 100$. If it was 20$, maybe. Its not even close to being worth it at 100$, save the money for the new build.
  2. Yeah they wont reduce your thermals on a 13900k/14900k by all that much. A 360 AIO vs a full Custom loop, its only a few degrees with that type of cpu. The block/Direct die impacts performance way more at that point since going from a 360MM rad to a multi 420 isnt going to impact it all that much. What it will do is give you a bit more wiggle room for fan speeds, but again when you put it under a full load that spikes those temps up, there really isnt much of a non LN2 cooling solution that tames those thermals. Tuning the voltage gives you a massive thermal change. In terms of what you can do for order, I generally do Front and top intake, back exhaust. The thermals inside wont really be affected as long as there is not a dead zone. Generally id say stick to one big rad, gives you room for if you want to do a 5080/5090, but if they are anything like the 4000 series, they wont need to be watercooled.
  3. What rumors? 5800x3D is a massive upgrade for you, 7800x3D Even more of a massive upgrade. Of course 9800x3D will be even more of an upgrade, but at what point do you want to buy it? With a 3600, you didnt really specify a budget, and if you are planning on selling it for 150 euro, i dont think youd be on the high end of that market. Also what GPU will you be using? Doesnt really make sense to buy a 9800x3D if you pair it with a sub par GPU. Its gonna be a bump rather thena jump in performance. For now id wait to see, since its only going to be a few months.
  4. A company overcharging for their parts and having their quality drop significantly in the past 4 years is struggling to do basic business things? Say it aint so! Hopefully people start learning more of these companies are scummy. It will be interesting to see how the EKWB fanboys that try to defend them on this.
  5. Depends on the games. If you play most FPS, G-Sync is absolutely worthless, turn it off. Adjust the ingame settings to the best you can to get to 240fps.
  6. Are you sure about that? Since HDMI 2.0 is limited to 144hz. If that laptop has HDMI 2.1 then its technically possible but even then they tend to be just limited to 144hz. Are you sure they arent using a USB -C Port?
  7. Again HDMI tends to be 144hz, told you that in your last topic.
  8. Would not go above a 4070 / 7900GRE . You would have to upgrade the CPU to get much more performance.
  9. Do more research before you buy a monitor You can either keep it for now since you have HDMI and it should be usable, and one day use a desktop with it, or return it and get a 144/165hz monitor.
  10. Its really dumb and wasteful to just spend money cause you can. 7950x3D is a bad cpu. 7800x3D has the exact same performance in almost every single game. The CCD management has had issues and just is not worth dealing with. Its a good in theory cpu, but bad in execution for people who dont really know how to fully troubleshoot the issues you will run into. Stick with cl30 6000 mhz ram. Less issues. Again you dont need 64 GB if you are just gaming. It really just comes down to do you value your money? Spending 2000$ on a 4090 just for it to be potentially leap frogged in 6 months is just not worth it. Unless you absolutely need it, i would either choose 4080 super or 7900xtx depending on if you want RT or not.
  11. You have red flags already. your first build should be done right, and not buy now and then upgrade in 6 months. Do it once and spend once. 7800x3D is the best for gaming overall. The next set of cpus are coming out this year for AM5, so its kind of a meh time to build a PC for high end specs. 7900xtx Is not a 4090 tier card, its a 4080ish card. Depends on most games, and depends on if you want Ray tracing. We dont know if the 5090 is launching in the winter, and even if it is, goodluck buying one. Do you actually need a 4090 tier PC? Because most people simply dont need that much performance with that kind of price tag.
  12. Biggest issue you will have is RAM instability. 4000 mhz ram Rarely ever works well on AM4 or On DDR4 Intel Cpus. If you experience any instability, drop it down to 3600 mhz and see if its more stable.
  13. VA Panels are generally hot garbage for high FPS shooters. Stick with IPS panels when it comes to shooter games. VA has come a long way, but its still sub-par when it comes to smearing and just not great performance. Hopefully OLED will continue to drop in price, as that will be the best performing and looking screen by far.
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