BLOODEDCYBORG

Interesting, I have been working on it and using it just fine in on my Windows 11 PC and my Win10 AtlasOS machine in the living room. There is a way to "Cancel" in ViGEmBus's installer and close the dependencies script. From there, it should skip the step naturally in the kit. I will add the option to self advance if the user chooses a more advance install approach. As you mention it, I will look into making that an option that allows which dependencies you want installed. lol Sucks they abandon, but if there was a continuation somewhere with frequent updates, please let me know! Good to know about win 7 and 8.1 actually, I was bit worried that the app wouldn't be compatible. Let me know if you have success on those platforms! I do want to spend more time expanding the installers capabilities during this time, like online call back to GitHub for automatic updates. A more optimized install process, etc. Thanks for the feedback!

It's been a while since my first post but I wanted to share the news! I've spent a lot of time learning a bit of c# over some months, and wanted to share this unique app that allows me the ability to use my favorite OG Xbox Original S controller on Windows!!! I was really happy to see there is still a small community out there dedicated to this sort of thing, and I want to make this a bit more mainstream if you will. I've spent a lot of time making sure this is easy to use, lightweight as possible for your average joe! (like my self lol) There are still video buffers I want to look in-depth towards the next release so I can reduce the flickering. Please find the old thread below, where it informed me to make a new one instead of reviving the old one so, without further ado here we are! I'll drop a link to my github page below with source code on how these forms are currently built. it's a lot of spaghetti code but it makes you master the n00bs in H:CE, like the good ole'days! MUHAHAHAHAHAHA, also in efforts to potentially reduce and reuse e-waste! I am open to sharing this project to those who are interested! PM directly plz.thx. XBOX OG KIT https://github.com/JustTrev/Xbox-S-Controller/releases/tag/XboxController Thanks for the visit! Happy gaming!

A new update has been applied and an official GitHub page for the entire code structure.

Lol yeah I thought M$ would be behind all non-bing results lol jk I've tried to avoid doing that to mine for over 20 years xD but I have like 7 of them lying around in a bin now in a back room.. (I'mma all growed up now ) + I wish M$ would update their xinput driver that was used to translate these old gamepads. But time will forever tell lol

Hey everyone, Just thought I'd share an application that hasn't seen much traction other than hard google searching lol; Xb2Input. After doing a few quick searches on the LTT forums, I wasn't able to find anything relatable that was public, so I think this might be a first post of its kind?... Please correct me if I am wrong and if the creator "emoose" can find my messages on GitHub, that would be wonderful I've never quite shared anything that I've programmed in the past before, and I've wanted to tip my hat into the programming community ring I suppose lol.. I am very much a n00b when it comes to programming, please don't take this the wrong way as I've spent serval days working on a small C# separate project for the Xb2Input app (that was lovely written by emoose on Github). Behind the idea I had is that I absolutely loved Xb2Input so much that I needed to write something that would quickly work for me, improving Xb2Input's quality of life in a more formal way, since I have it setup on more than one of my PCs.. So here is what I came up with; The Xbox OG Kit https://github.com/JustTrev/Xbox-S-Controller/tree/master The Xbox OG Kit, is a frontend API that enables you to adjust and configure any old Original Xbox Controller without the hassle of too much human intervention when it comes to setting up Xb2Input (i.e. making changes to it's ".ini" file, then relaunch Xb2Input to see the changes take affect). The kit comes with an installer I am also building from the ground up for it called the "XboxOG Kit Installer" and it's responsible for unpacking and setting up the Xbox OG Kit, ViGEmBus and Xb2Input with all of its components. Without them, Xb2Input would be rendered useless, and my project a total waste of time. This is my Xbox OG Kit in a nutshell. I hope this helps anyone who needs a quicker fix for their solution when it comes to using any old Original Xbox type controller and or would prefer a more user friendly experience when attempting to test any of them in the process on PC? You can download the zipped installer below. I would love to hear any feedback about the the Kit and if there are any bugs you may find to please report them here or with special features you would like to see added to the Xbox OG Kit on GitHub as well. To those who would like to enhance this project further, please contact me directly on GitHub as I am very careful about my work. I would like to give an honorable mention to emoose on GitHub for making this a reality in the first place and I hope to see a new update come out of Xb2Input soon!! I am so thankful I am able to use my ultimate favorite controller of all time again!!!!! Xbox OG Kit: Download Zip: XboxOGSystem.zip v2.0 Source: https://github.com/JustTrev/Xbox-S-Controller/releases/tag/XboxController About - A frontend user interface for Xb2Input with included requirements package. Current Supported Platform: Windows 10+ Image Snapshots: Xbox OG Kit Installer includes: • XboxOG Kit v2.0 • Xb2Inputv1.5c with driver packages • ViGEmBus Setup 1.21.442 Current Release Notes v2.0: Past Release Notes v1.0: XboxOGKit Project Bones: https://github.com/JustTrev/Xbox-S-Controller About - Xbox OG Kit is a frontend user interface for Xb2Input with included requirements to support Original Xbox Controllers for PC. Xb2Input Source: https://github.com/emoose/Xb2XInput About - XB2X: User-mode Windows driver for Xbox OG controllers, supporting both XInput and DirectInput. ViGEmBus Source: https://github.com/ViGEm/ViGEmBus/releases/tag/v1.21.442.0 About - Windows kernel-mode driver emulating well-known USB game controllers.

Oh man lol well I've been gaming for a good solid week so far. I was going to run a furmark test to see where it's flaws are in this configuration. Before I took the 7870 out I had the case fan in but that and the cpu fan would sound like a rocket was about to take off like the familiar x360. But I've since reapplied the cpu thermal paste upon receiving the system at the time. With the 1080 installed the cpu fan has been hardly audible from that point and there is some heat coming out the back, which to me seems like a good sign. I do lay it flat I don't prefer to stand the system up as you would choke the GPU from grabbing outside air and what ever makes it to the cpu. The power adapter you mentioned, I've too gotten a little worried since it is working, and how well the power adapter is doing. And it turns out it is warm but isn't warm warm, I should probably take a break warm. So time will only tell I think. I do have a spare adapter for a Dell Precision laptop from back then that also looks to be the exact model. Hopefully I don't end with a pile of bricks because of the 1080s massive cap sacks.. thanks for the tip btw lol I turned off the fps cap in Destiny 2 and I get on average anywhere between 62 to 120+fps. Any drop I noticed which was about at 57fps for a brief second before back into the 60s.. Those seemed as if they were mearly caused by network and in-game loading, that could also effect fps slightly on any computer (I'm running on wifi here). But overall I'm pretty impressed so far. I had very low hopes of it being remotely this playable even with the power limit that is applied. I had figured before I had attempted this project that the hitching would be terrible by combining the GPU with the CPU, but I'm clearly in the wrong so far with this one. I would like to see more science behind it like what's the amount of power the system is pulling from the adapter and the wall,etc. It's also what sparked me to write this post

Hello, so I'd want to share a little insight to what I've come across that I really didn't think would have made a big impact to my gaming performance, on an older system. Lower a newer GPU's Power Limit. So the subject is an Alienware X51 R1 that I've replaced the GeForce 640 GPU for an ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo in the end https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-GeForce-Turbo-Graphic-TURBO-GTX1080-8G/dp/B01HDUVJ2M The CPU is a 3770 i7 with 8MB of L3 cache, 16GB of RAM. 500GB SSD storage. The system to compare it with was my custom build PC, with an i5, 9600KF with RTX 2070, 64GB of RAM, with stock settings and no limits. I would like to see a list of computers around this time period and some more details when doing this to your GPU and to older CPUs in what they might benefit having this as your only option in gaming.. But let me explain a bit in more details first.. So to start, I was gifted this little guy about a month ago and the GeForce 640 in it had died. I had two GPUs to throw at it, the first was a XFX 7870HD and it has 2GB of VRAM, though games would be playable at lower settings. Red Dead 2 Online would barely be playable at a lower resolution but the VRAM usage would be overbudget a lot (lol). other games also were lower settings and would lag quite a bit. So recently I waited for a 2+6 pin to a 1, 8 pin adapter for the 1080 to arrive and once it did it was of to the races. I tore down the system and removed the old 7870 for the 1080, and I must say it fit just right once I removed the front fan from inside the case. (Since the card is blower style, temps were not going to be an issue here). After cleaning up the video drivers and installed the 1080, using MSI Afterburner I lowered the power limit of the 1080 down 50% (90w), after tripping the power adapter several times trying to get into games. Halo MCC was the only title playable without the Power Limit set.. I've also tested at 100w and it would still trip the PSU. So it seemed like the best place for the GPU was at 90 watts. By default the GTX 1080's power limit is set to 180W and after lowering it down to 90w's, WOW. The CPU seemed like it was able to keep up with the GPU. Probably the best FPS performance I've ever seen with now old hardware!! The power adapter that comes with the computer is about 200w-250w total after looking into more research about the device.. Lowering the Power Limit to 90W on the GPU allowed me to play Destiny 2, Rd2, No Mans Sky, etc, with all maxed out graphics.. (NOTE; No Mans Sky does runs like a tank, and my Custom Rig doesn't play this title well, but for some reason it ran like butter on the X51), running super smooth at or above 60+ FPS, VSync on or GPU default Fast. To be fair, the GPU does run cooler with lower TDP settings but it almost feels like it gives the old CPU enough time to process everything the GPU is throwing at it.. A seemingly lower amount of time for two Processing Units to communicate. I wonder if this trick will help older CPUs from hitching or stuttering if newer GPUs massive ballz can be turned down with MSI afterburner? I would like to see more research into this, as all I managed to adjust was the Power Limit from stock, down 50%. I left everything else stock (clock settings, mem settings) in MSI afterburner and never touched a single OC setting. The nVidia panel, for those who are interested, I mostly stuck with best optimal/high performance, ultra low latency enabled, and texture performance enabled. If you need a screenshot I can share once I am home laterz.. If anyone has done this before I'd like to know more about this and what some of the set backs might be, could be in a video of some sort, as I have yet to come across any at this time.. I tried searching the forums too, but had a hard time finding anything about it or knowing what keywords are anymore.. (The internet is like piss in a pool.) Cheers!

Its Windows Storage Server 2008 R2 Essentials and boots from the RAID. I am sure the RAID will need to be rebuilt and the OS re-installed with newer drives... The issue is that the drives are old and do need replaced. The server itself only supports 4 drives so I can't do a traditional RAID 6, which I was looking forward to setting up once I was able to figure out a way to import the container, or drives to salvage some of the data. But it looks as if the OS was on the drive that went belly up, not being detected from the BIOS. The SATA ports it should populate are 2,3,4 and 5 according to the IDs listed in the array of the RAID. Let me know if that helps or if more information is needed.

Good morning nurds.. I have a Western Digital Sentinel RX4100 that finally had a drive fail (1 of 4), the RAID5 container's Boot status says "FAILED", but looks like it tries to boot and then hits the mapping screen awaiting a command to exit.. What I did find was the original documents the manual and recovery dvd, I copied it to a USB stick and tried to run the recovery tool. This was software from WD and the machine is several years old. I could only find a few results but none from here so I figured I'd try and hopefully reach the right brain.. When I try to run the recovery tool on the NAS server, the recovery process begins to initialize then it fails with an error message "STORAGE BAD". But I know the data should still be intact unless I'm wrong and should just go quit my job.. I wanted to test and see if I could at least run an OS of some kind get the container mounted or at least open it to copy all the data before wiping/replacing all the drives, to possibly retire the NAS completely. Recovery.txt Log file: Any suggestions or advice would greatly be appreciated. Let me know if more information is needed. Thank you, Trevor

What version of unraid is installed in that build?

Hello, Not really a big poster on here, though after watching enough LTT for a while and watching the Dale the sleeper and other cool case mod videos, I had an idea that I'm not sure I would be able to accomplish by myself physically, however the design, build concept and the PC hardware I have in mind is to use as my own personal gaming rig on the big screen. So I have two of the Xbox consoles that are functional, in this case I only would need 1 of it's cases to use, and to keep the other for classic couch potato nostalgia. I am saving the parts from the 2nd console in case my primary console were to fail. So this thread will become mostly the build log/progress report and hopefully a guide for users.. Linus please feel free to try this, as I would like to know if there are possible future problems depending on the build layout you go with.. Hell add water cooling! The plan: • Reuse the front IO for the 3.0 USB header from any retail mother board that supports it. This will require re-wiring cables to the front ports. • 4x USB Type A Female to Xbox Adapter. (give us the ability to add devices and gamepads.) • Modify front buttons and LED's wiring to work with the motherboard. (Set the colors how ever you like) Green for ON, Green+Red for HDD activity (LEDs only have two colors RG), or Red for HDD or any errors( from the bios I guess or link to a RGB or Red LED controller.. idk) • Find the right GPU that will fit where the optical drive used to sit. Modify the metal shroud to support PCI brackets at the rear. Will require cutting into the metal shroud and the rear of the plastic case, (Note where to cut and use fine grade sand paper to smooth the rough edges.) This will apply to the Motherboard rear IO ports as well for the rear plate to fit in the metal frame. • ITX motherboards with M.2 support will most likely be a must in this case.. "pun". • SSD's and SATA cables. • PCI-E extension ribbon cables. And possible support for the GPU to prevent sag depending on the GPU that is installed.. • Shave down the little plastic stubs inside on the bottom of the case till it is completely flat to install motherboard standoffs allowing installation of the MoBo. (Make sure to fit the MoBo between the existing NIC and A/C Power port holes. This prevents cutting the top.) Don't cut anything from the top cover... Except maybe LED lights for the Xbox badge. Go to town. • You will also need to sand down the two middle screw posts. The case will only need the four corner screw posts to fasten down the lid. For power I haven't quite decided if I will be able to find one that is similar to scale like the PSU placement in the Fractal Design Node 202 case, Or; use a beefy power supply as an external PSU? • Obtain the necessary PSU Female to Male adapters (Male ends of the adapters will go to the rest of the internal components.) • Modify the rear of the case that will hold these adapters together. This enables me to use any PSU I want later... From there I can then use custom Cable Mod green and black cables to go from the PSU to the rear of the console's new custom modular power ports (For PSU lovers go with a Air cooled PSU and you can then place it on top of your TV stand next to your Xbox themed PC sleeper booted into Steam Big Picture mode, to make others wonder...) For reference I have attached some pictures that I have taken of the console with the guts removed. Let me know what you guys think, I'd like to hear some more suggestions or thoughts that could improve this custom case mod build... This is also my first case mod, which will be a challenge but I like a good challenge. The reason behind this is mostly due to some living arrangements that I have coming soon and I plan to remodel our summer room into a gamer's lounge. I will have some old retro games and consoles to fill this room and a gaming PC as well, which this idea/plan came to light. (I'll post pictures here soon of the gutted console and used a Radeon HD 5770 GPU for scale) Thanks,