NoTxtWhileDrive

One thing to keep in mind is the sort of USB Type C the docking station requires.
USB Type C is a physical connector, but with many sorts of protocols behind it, such as USB 2.0, USB 3.2 Gen 1 (USB 3.0/5Gb/s), Thunderbolt 3, etc.
A lot of USB Type C docks will require the USB Type C to be a certain speed, but may also require it to have something called 'DP Alt Mode', or "Displayport Alternative Mode", which means it can share video signals over the USB Type C port.
 
This is something already relatively uncommon on many laptops, but on PC it's even more rare.
There are of course motherboards that have this function, but usually those are the more luxurious motherboards, those with Thunderbolt.
 
A USB Type A ('regular USB') docking station has its own (pretty underpowered) graphics chip in it, good for just displaying an image (such as for Office work and stuff), but it's not powerful enough for more intensive workloads (think playing 1080p60fps/4K video, gaming, etc.). 
When using a dock, you of course would want to use the power of your graphics card. A laptop with USB Type C including DP Alt Mode can do this, by transferring the video through that port.
With desktop motherboards, the only way I've seen them do this, is by having a motherboard with Type C Thunderbolt and then it has a "Displayport In" port, to allow the graphics card to sort of transfer its video stream to the motherboard, which then it goes to the Type C port and then your dock.
Example:

ASUS' upcoming Crosshair VIII Extreme motherboard. Note the two USB Type C ports, with the thunderbolt symbol next to it. It also has a "DP IN 1" port, which is the port that allows your to connect your graphics card, so the USB Type C/Thunderbolt ports can actually transfer video signals from it.
 
TL;DR: So it is possible to do, but requires some compatibility between your motherboard and the hub in question.

I think there is no way around saving your files and doing a clean install of Windows. My experience with resetting/reinstalling Windows 10 with saving files or other settings is a pain. I had my laptop get stuck in a bootloop once because of that.
 
As a system-integrator i can only suggest you to do a clean install, with cleaning your drive with diskpart during your Windows setup.
 
 
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any unwanted data loss during the following process.
 
When you saved all your files, boot off a Windows 10 boot stick and when you are at the screen whre you have to pick the drive to install Windows on, press Shift+F10. This opens the command promt.
 
Type "diskpart" and hit enter.
Type "lis dis" to see all the drives that are currently in your PC.
You should be able to distinguish your laptop drive from the USB Stick by size.
Type "sel dis x" and put the disk number of the desired disk in, which you can see in the list from before.
You can list your disks again to make sure the right one is selected.
Type "clean" to wipe all data off the disk.
After it finished, you can close the command prompt and refresh your drives. Now you have a clean drive to install your windows on.
 
 
 

Good luck.

I have worked with custom tools for database software doing this. For couple of companies. The way they have stuff is Excel with basic details and scanned documents using same identifying number in file names as spreadsheet has. Then the custom form to add database entries and renaming PDF/picture files to match database entry. There's lot of manual things to do, so per entry process ranges from 15 minutes to 1h.
 
So, database system would be best, and maybe something like that LMG uses for their warehouse (https://kzsoftware.com/products/). Optimal being that when you make entry, it would rename pictures to have same identifying code as with actual entries. Plus with these purpose-made software if you are using barcodes, they will use that number as identifying code.

Maybe, or maybe not, but I have some ideas.  If you create a fix (or pre defined) number of images from each item and you go through the items in the same order as listed in the excel table. Then it's quite easy to put the images into separate folders. For example you make 5 pics from every item and then it's easy to group the images by 5 and put these groups into the corresponding folders. Does it make sense? With a little scripting it might just work.

There's form where I input certain info and then use file browser to select PDF/image files. The software renames those files based on premade scheme. The barcode part would come that it automatically seaches correct records from database. So when setup correctly, you read barcode to open correct record, then use tool to select which images belong to that record -> software renames files. The tool I used didn't make/move files/folders, that part was done by hand. But its easy to do that since you can use Windows file search to select based on files names.
Here's what the form looks like. And this really is custom made tool. The base software is ArcGIS Desktop (I was working for Geological Survey of Finland, digitizing field notes from another researcher). In the "component list", first item (Paljastumakuva, outcrop picture) is renamed PDF file.
 
The companies might have some other software for document management. Handling reports and such. But I didn't use any of those so can't say if they were custom made or using some other software.

I used to run a DAC off I think a 6 metre non-powered USB hub with 0 issues. Just get a cable thats rated for 2.0 and you'll be fine

I'm trying to do some quality-of-life improvements to my couch gaming setup. One of them was placing a usb hub in the desk next to the couch. I bought a cheap usb 2.0 hub and a 3 meter usb extension cable. It's a really big help to my setup. Now I'm asking if I can take it further:
 
Can I buy a usb sound adapter/card plug it in the hub? What problems with doing this can I expect? Any recommendations for cheap ones? 

I bought a Crunchie bar. Unrelated to the video, but I wanted one.

The ram and cpu would be the limiting factor in my experience, ram especially when it comes to large projects with links and dependencies to other drawings. Not entirely sure about 3d in autocad though, I seldom use autocad specifically for 3d.

The S12II is a low-quality unit from 2007.

With Ryzen stick to RAM thats over 3000Mhz, anything below will cause significant performance drop. I assume your b350 motherboard already has a BIOS that supports ryzen 2000.
I'm almost certain Tecware is in PH, and I strongly strongly recommend it. Their cases look amazing and are usually dirt cheap(downside: cable management is hard, build quality is decent though). So far I've used the Tecware Vega F3(highly popular in singapore as it's only around $85SGD(3,273.91PHP). Check out their website, a lot of the cases are around the $50-$60 SGD mark(around 2000PHP), and prices shouldn't differ much in PH since Tecware mainly focuses on South east Asia
Take a look at cooler master? their masterwatt 550 has been pretty reliable for me and was much much cheaper than other options of the same caliber. It was around 75SGD or ~1900PHP

CX550M is Tier B (C because of sleeve-bearing but whatever) and S12II is Tier D

Guys, he's in Indonesia ... it may very well be that B350 boards there have higher margins and therefore more expensive compared to A320 boards.
 
Giving him links to US stores won't help, since shipping would probably cost more than buying locally. (unless free shipping from China / HK / Taiwan through ebay, aliexpress, banggood etc)
 

Oh I remember now enabling this a while back, Thanks! 

Its only a  double sided board. And he doesnt need to put a new connector in.

Hmm, it works fine when I click on it. You can search Amazon for "OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid"
 

I know i would be able to remove them with a heatgun. But that is not usually a tool you use if you care about the board.
You need a good quality desoldering tool for double sided boards. Also solder wick is useful for this stuff.

No, that's a multilayer board. Desoldering a single component with 2 pins would be possible with only basic tools, but a connector with many pins is nigh impossible without damaging the board.
 
If you don't care about the connectors afterwards, the poor-man's solution to this is to carefully cut/peel the connectors apart with very sharp side cutters, making sure never to put stress on the board. Once the bulk of the connectors plastic body has been removed this way you can desolder the individual pins one-by-one by pulling them while heating them from the other side.
 
That's the quick and dirty way we used to use to replace damaged ports on laptops, etc when our main tools were unavailable. In situations where the board is important but the connector itself is allowed to be destroyed.

I been working on a Raspberry pi zero w with Octoprint to serve as my file server for my 3d printer. pretty bog standard installation but hit alot of snags in along the road and almost destroyed my printer in more than one occasion while doing it. 

Sometimes when I'm too lazy to plug in my phone.

This a build log thing of my progress so far in my auxiliary monitor project called by me as: "Project ghetto Valkyrie." 

 
As a prelude I'm going to mention that this is not my first monitor related mod thing... I once made a adjustable stand for a monitor using my drafting lamp and some 3d printing.
 

 
-2016
The whole thing began with Linus' CES2016 coverage of the Project Valerie, when I heard it as "Valkyrie" instead of "Valerie" and it kinda stuck with me. And the proceeding DIY solution video. I been playing with the Idea in my head of making my own with my Dell Inspiron
-2017, early Feburary?
I started doing sketches on my schematics notebook on the core mechanism I will use and some crude assembly drawings.
 

 
-2017, May (probably.)
Only significant progress I made in until this point is a revision on the Elbow hinge... ehh too lazy to scan It and it was pretty minor in the scheme of things... It was Finals period at my semester at this time. Normally, I put it on hold for a while.
 
- June-ish
Salvaged the lcd screen from my old Lenovo ideapad S100 then verified if it still works... It does not. Then extracted screens from my sisters' netbooks and both of them are in surprisingly good condition. I chose the lcd from the older of the two netbooks because the newer one could still be fixed so I reassembled the newer netbook and store it for later.
 

 
After finding a suitable screen I started to search ebay for a lcd controller board. And automatically picked the cheaper one. because yeah. Now the wait begins
 
- mid August
I never bothered to make a model of the initial schematics because I needed the board dimensions to do anything useful, though I made a somewhat accurate model of the laptop screen, which involved me holding my laptop against my a desktop scanner to get some accurate pictures before realizing duhhh.... amazon product pictures....

 
The controller board was suppose to arrive a month ago at the latest checked the tracking and it said "In Transit". I contacted the seller for a refund or a re-shipment, they chose the latter. We reached an agreement. Now the wait begins (again).
 
- September
Pretty much given up on the project at this point, it seems the second order is also a bust. So I cut my losses and move on with other stuff.
 
- early October
(to be fair guys this was my first time buying something in ebay, or shipping and postal service in general) It turns out the second shipment did arrive... a month earlier. yeah.... to quote a great per5-0n: "my b". (please someone get that reference).
 

 
Evaluated my design from may-ish... that sh*t is way too complicated and hard to manufacture, a redesign is in order. With a caliper and the driver board in hand I started to model. ditched the sliding/retraction mechanism like in the original Project Valkyrie mostly due to space constraint for a slot in mechanism, Ala joycons (stupid name. ) slotting in the Nintendo Switch kinda deal. And an elbow joint for viewing angle adjustments. (I have animations for both joints but can't seem to upload gifs there (not sure if it supports it at all)).
 

 
Printed it at the weekend of Oct. 7-8 (no pictures sadly) and were now at the present.
 

 
- Moving forward
Need to design around the lcd controller board and its case. It does not fit like in my design... haven't given much free space between the bare lcd and the bottom of the controller case it seems. Redesign the part that connects to my laptop, even with duck tape and expensive (for me) 3m? m3? double sided tape I now regret buying... And for the fact;   I absolutely don't want to superglue or screw mount it I want this to be reversible in the case when I have the need to remove it.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Make the buttons more accessible. Find someway to power it using a powerbank or something... Thanks for reading, hope you enjoyed.
-Andy
 

Mostly, around 80% got the rest was from youtube tutorials and asking in the autodesk forums. Try it if you can; the program is Autodesk Fusion 360 and its free for 3 years using its education program.

This a build log thing of my progress so far in my auxiliary monitor project called by me as: "Project ghetto Valkyrie." 

 
As a prelude I'm going to mention that this is not my first monitor related mod thing... I once made a adjustable stand for a monitor using my drafting lamp and some 3d printing.
 

 
-2016
The whole thing began with Linus' CES2016 coverage of the Project Valerie, when I heard it as "Valkyrie" instead of "Valerie" and it kinda stuck with me. And the proceeding DIY solution video. I been playing with the Idea in my head of making my own with my Dell Inspiron
-2017, early Feburary?
I started doing sketches on my schematics notebook on the core mechanism I will use and some crude assembly drawings.
 

 
-2017, May (probably.)
Only significant progress I made in until this point is a revision on the Elbow hinge... ehh too lazy to scan It and it was pretty minor in the scheme of things... It was Finals period at my semester at this time. Normally, I put it on hold for a while.
 
- June-ish
Salvaged the lcd screen from my old Lenovo ideapad S100 then verified if it still works... It does not. Then extracted screens from my sisters' netbooks and both of them are in surprisingly good condition. I chose the lcd from the older of the two netbooks because the newer one could still be fixed so I reassembled the newer netbook and store it for later.
 

 
After finding a suitable screen I started to search ebay for a lcd controller board. And automatically picked the cheaper one. because yeah. Now the wait begins
 
- mid August
I never bothered to make a model of the initial schematics because I needed the board dimensions to do anything useful, though I made a somewhat accurate model of the laptop screen, which involved me holding my laptop against my a desktop scanner to get some accurate pictures before realizing duhhh.... amazon product pictures....

 
The controller board was suppose to arrive a month ago at the latest checked the tracking and it said "In Transit". I contacted the seller for a refund or a re-shipment, they chose the latter. We reached an agreement. Now the wait begins (again).
 
- September
Pretty much given up on the project at this point, it seems the second order is also a bust. So I cut my losses and move on with other stuff.
 
- early October
(to be fair guys this was my first time buying something in ebay, or shipping and postal service in general) It turns out the second shipment did arrive... a month earlier. yeah.... to quote a great per5-0n: "my b". (please someone get that reference).
 

 
Evaluated my design from may-ish... that sh*t is way too complicated and hard to manufacture, a redesign is in order. With a caliper and the driver board in hand I started to model. ditched the sliding/retraction mechanism like in the original Project Valkyrie mostly due to space constraint for a slot in mechanism, Ala joycons (stupid name. ) slotting in the Nintendo Switch kinda deal. And an elbow joint for viewing angle adjustments. (I have animations for both joints but can't seem to upload gifs there (not sure if it supports it at all)).
 

 
Printed it at the weekend of Oct. 7-8 (no pictures sadly) and were now at the present.
 

 
- Moving forward
Need to design around the lcd controller board and its case. It does not fit like in my design... haven't given much free space between the bare lcd and the bottom of the controller case it seems. Redesign the part that connects to my laptop, even with duck tape and expensive (for me) 3m? m3? double sided tape I now regret buying... And for the fact;   I absolutely don't want to superglue or screw mount it I want this to be reversible in the case when I have the need to remove it.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Make the buttons more accessible. Find someway to power it using a powerbank or something... Thanks for reading, hope you enjoyed.
-Andy
 

This a build log thing of my progress so far in my auxiliary monitor project called by me as: "Project ghetto Valkyrie." 

 
As a prelude I'm going to mention that this is not my first monitor related mod thing... I once made a adjustable stand for a monitor using my drafting lamp and some 3d printing.
 

 
-2016
The whole thing began with Linus' CES2016 coverage of the Project Valerie, when I heard it as "Valkyrie" instead of "Valerie" and it kinda stuck with me. And the proceeding DIY solution video. I been playing with the Idea in my head of making my own with my Dell Inspiron
-2017, early Feburary?
I started doing sketches on my schematics notebook on the core mechanism I will use and some crude assembly drawings.
 

 
-2017, May (probably.)
Only significant progress I made in until this point is a revision on the Elbow hinge... ehh too lazy to scan It and it was pretty minor in the scheme of things... It was Finals period at my semester at this time. Normally, I put it on hold for a while.
 
- June-ish
Salvaged the lcd screen from my old Lenovo ideapad S100 then verified if it still works... It does not. Then extracted screens from my sisters' netbooks and both of them are in surprisingly good condition. I chose the lcd from the older of the two netbooks because the newer one could still be fixed so I reassembled the newer netbook and store it for later.
 

 
After finding a suitable screen I started to search ebay for a lcd controller board. And automatically picked the cheaper one. because yeah. Now the wait begins
 
- mid August
I never bothered to make a model of the initial schematics because I needed the board dimensions to do anything useful, though I made a somewhat accurate model of the laptop screen, which involved me holding my laptop against my a desktop scanner to get some accurate pictures before realizing duhhh.... amazon product pictures....

 
The controller board was suppose to arrive a month ago at the latest checked the tracking and it said "In Transit". I contacted the seller for a refund or a re-shipment, they chose the latter. We reached an agreement. Now the wait begins (again).
 
- September
Pretty much given up on the project at this point, it seems the second order is also a bust. So I cut my losses and move on with other stuff.
 
- early October
(to be fair guys this was my first time buying something in ebay, or shipping and postal service in general) It turns out the second shipment did arrive... a month earlier. yeah.... to quote a great per5-0n: "my b". (please someone get that reference).
 

 
Evaluated my design from may-ish... that sh*t is way too complicated and hard to manufacture, a redesign is in order. With a caliper and the driver board in hand I started to model. ditched the sliding/retraction mechanism like in the original Project Valkyrie mostly due to space constraint for a slot in mechanism, Ala joycons (stupid name. ) slotting in the Nintendo Switch kinda deal. And an elbow joint for viewing angle adjustments. (I have animations for both joints but can't seem to upload gifs there (not sure if it supports it at all)).
 

 
Printed it at the weekend of Oct. 7-8 (no pictures sadly) and were now at the present.
 

 
- Moving forward
Need to design around the lcd controller board and its case. It does not fit like in my design... haven't given much free space between the bare lcd and the bottom of the controller case it seems. Redesign the part that connects to my laptop, even with duck tape and expensive (for me) 3m? m3? double sided tape I now regret buying... And for the fact;   I absolutely don't want to superglue or screw mount it I want this to be reversible in the case when I have the need to remove it.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Make the buttons more accessible. Find someway to power it using a powerbank or something... Thanks for reading, hope you enjoyed.
-Andy