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privoid

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Computers
  • Occupation
    Student

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 2700
  • Motherboard
    MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair Vengeance LED (red), DDR4 2666 MHz
  • GPU
    XFX AMD Radeon RX Vega 64
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout TG
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 EVO (1x 250GB, 1x 500GB) / 2x Seagate Barracuda Compute (2TB)
  • PSU
    be quiet! Pure Power 10-CM 700W
  • Display(s)
    Samsung SyncMaster P2250 / Samsung SyncMaster 2494HM
  • Cooling
    Custom loop: EK Supremacy EVO AMD, Watercool Heatkiller IV (for Vega 64), Alphacool NexXxos ST30 360mm, Alphacool NexXxos XT45 240mm, Alphacool Eisbecher DDC 250mm Acetal, Alphacool Eisrohr PETG Tubing (13 / 10), Alphacool Eiszapfen fittings, 6x Corsair SP120 (one used as a case fan)
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Strafe (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum
  • Sound
    Sennheiser Urbanite XL
  • Operating System
    Ubuntu 18.04 LTS (Main), Windows 7 Professional (64-Bit) (Games, video editing and Windows-only software)

Recent Profile Visitors

794 profile views
  1. @Blai5e @Benjeh 1. Thanks for your kind help and suggestions. 2. Yes, that screenshot was of my PC idling. I used that because that's where I wanted to turn my fans off, not at (full) load. When talking about the fluctuating temperatures, I thought you were referring to the PC being at pretty much zero load so that's why I showed you that these spikes weren't as big of an issue for me. 3. About three days ago, I decided to order a Commander Pro following your suggestion and some other things I've seen and heard about it. I figured that I'll just do it because I could return it if it didn't work for me. It arrived yesterday. I got around to setting it up today and it's working almost completely flawlessly as of now. The fans turn off just as I wanted it to happen. The only problem I've got right now is this: I'm currently using one of the included sensors as a base to control my fans, because this is, as suggested, the only way it will work when using Linux. I put it between my GPU's board and the beginning of the actual cooler next to the power connectors. This sort of gets me where I want to be in terms of fan control but it obviously doesn't account for the CPU as much as it should and has various other problems that I can't fix right now. It's definitely not an ideal solution but it will do until I get my hands on one of those fittings with a sensor built in. 4. Since I have to drain my loop in order to put that sensor in anyway I will probably also turn around my front radiator fans to get at least a bit of intake.
  2. I've tried exactly that before but for me it didn't make much of a difference compared to using the CPU / pump headers. The only thing that was different was my ability to turn my fans off in the BIOS. However, even though I set them to 0 RPM for testing, the fans didn't change their speed or turn off no matter what I set.
  3. Thanks for the answer. I know what you're talking about, it's just that I'm not that experienced when it comes to dealing with this sort of stuff, hence I'm asking lots of questions, also in response to your answers as some of them don't seem to make much sense when I connect them to my observations. 1. You said I don't have much fresh air in my system but that didn't make much sense to me because I thought most of the heat would be carried out of the system by the radiators. I see your point and I see why it would be better to also have intakes but it just doesn't seem worthwhile to me when my temperatures wouldn't improve that much. 2. You said that the temperatures would shoot up and down; they don't, at least not in my system as the graphs show. I've seen this (extreme) fluctuating before and I know what you're talking about, once again, it just doesn't occur to me why I couldn't use my CPU / GPU temperature instead of the liquid's to control my fans, especially when using smooth curves or thresholds that would eliminate the effect of the temperature "spikes". 3. You can't hear your fans until they're at 50 - 55% speed. I, however, can hear mine at very low speeds. Maybe I've got bad fans, maybe my case isn't isolated that well but whatever the case may be, I can hear them, making me want to turn them off. I hope I could clear up my point here. I didn't mean to discredit your experience or sound like I'm not listening to your advice, it's just that I wanted a bit more clarification.
  4. 1. I saw that before but I never really thought it would make that much of a difference especially because my temperatures are awesome hence there's no need for me to get the extra 1 to 3 degrees 2. Well, couldn't that issue be mitigated by using smooth curves? Also, my temperatures don't fluctuate that much. Here's a graph of my temperatures: The top line shows my CPU and the bottom one shows the GPU (over 20 minutes). They jump around by 1 degree every few seconds but the curve I would configure wouldn't actually take that into account. My CPU and GPU idle at 34 and 31°C respectively and go up and down by the said 1 degree. Over time and with a bit of usage that may go up to 2 or 3 degrees higher but it still wouldn't be a significant change. 3. That's the point: I can hear my fans even when they're at they're lowest speed. This is why I want to turn them off. Also, just an additional question: Technically there isn't much that's leaving heat in my system, right? Most of the heat produced by the CPU and GPU is dissipated by the radiators, so shouldn't there technically be enough fresh / moderately cool air inside the system? I know that the temperature increases over time and it gets a little warm. Still, it's not like it doesn't work at all, otherwise my temperatures wouldn't be as good as they are.
  5. @Blai5e 1. Is that necessarily a bad thing? I like the way my fan setup looks in its current configuration and I wouldn't like to turn them around or put them on the other side of my radiators. Also, I've seen many times before that push vs. pull doesn't make that much of a difference when it comes to cooling (at least in a case like mine). Is that true though? 2. I see your point with the liquid temperature but couldn't I technically also use my CPU / GPU temperature as well? It seems reasonable to me given that the liquid's temperature is more or less determined by the loop's heat-emitting components. However, I may end up actually draining my loop and sticking a sensor in there. Also, thanks for your suggestion with the Commander Pro. I've heard many people talk about the controller itself but your suggestion of using it between Windows and Linux sounds great and actually worthwhile. 3. Is there any particular reason for your suggestion against turning my fans off (like a reduced lifespan)? My fans are not that intrusive and I'm glad I only have 6 of them but I'd still like to make my PC completely silent if and when possible, especially since my PC sits right next to me on my desk so it being a bit quieter is always nice. After all, silence was one of my reasons for going with liquid cooling and I've seen many people who turn their fans off when their PC is not at full load.
  6. No, I can't but neither can I when using Windows. The fans are not directly connected to the motherboard, only the hub is. This means that the speed set by the software should (I think) be transferred to the controller board which would then send it off to all of the other connectors. The only "fan" speed I see when using either Ubuntu or Windows is the speed of my pump which I can't control anywhere (except for the screw on the bottom of the pump). As you can see in the picture of the controller I attached, I connected the pump's cable to PWM1 on the hub which reads the speed and sends it off to the motherboard. By the way, the cable coming from the pump only has a single actual cable on it that's supposed to be used just for reading the RPM since the pump itself is controlled by the screw on its bottom and is powered via Molex. The whole situation with the hub is a bit weird to understand and I'm not sure whether my description is even right, it's just the way I think it works.
  7. Yes, I have, forgot to mention that. It didn't work, just like SpeedFan. I suppose this has something to do with the fact that I'm technically controlling one fan as far as the programs are concerned. However, the selected speed doesn't apply to the connected fans for some reason even though it should just be passed on (especially when using the hub's PWM connectors) as far as I know. This could be down to me using the hub or the splitters or it could be because I'm using PWM fans. Either way, I'd love to have some kind of fan controller that lets me turn off my fans.
  8. I'd like to stop them because it's quieter and it's not necessary to have them running. When I had first completed the build I disconnected the fans just to see how well the loop performs passively and it never got above around 48°C so I think that turning them off would be worthwhile.
  9. The situation: I built myself an awesome PC about 5 months ago and it's been running great except for one issue that's been a bit annoying. When I configured the build I chose to go with 6 of Corsair's SP120s as my system fans. 5 of them are mounted on the radiators and 1 is mounted in the back of the case (I know this is not the best configuration but I thought I'd put it there for its looks). Here's a picture of the PC: To power all the fans I'm currently using the fan hub that came with my case (Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout TG). Here's my current configuration: The problem: I have tried various different combinations of settings in the UEFI and connections on and to the fan hub. I initially used PUMP1 and now have it connected to SYS_FAN4 on the motherboard but it didn't make much of a difference. Also, connecting the fans to the hub's PWM or 3-pin headers didn't make any difference. So, I was never fully able to control the fans the way I want to. I'm now at the point where all my fans are always running at their minimum speed which is definitely enough to cool the system even under full load. However, I'd still like to turn them off when the system is idling or under low to medium load (which is most of the time). My hope was that I might be able to control them using just the 3-pin headers but I've never been able to turn them off completely, no matter what settings or connections I tried. I also tried controlling the fans using SpeedFan which didn't work out either. However, even if it did it wouldn't have helped much since I use Ubuntu most of the time where SpeedFan is not available. So, here are my questions: - Am I doing something completely wrong or is it not possible for me to set the fans up the way I want to? - Do PWM fans support being turned off completely? - If it's not possible to control the fans the way I want to I'd like to buy a fan controller that either doesn't require any software (hardware-controlled) or has software that's available for Linux, have you got any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
  10. Yes, I could, doesn't matter anymore though. The adapter is already on its way back to amazon. Thanks for your suggestion though
  11. No, could still be fake. But it's pretty unlikely because I bought the charger from Samsung, definitely the real company and seller on amazon.
  12. Sorry for not stating this - the new wall adapter is from amazon
  13. Yep, your games are using the integrated graphics. Simple solution should be this: Right click on your desktop, go to the NVIDIA Control Panel and under the 3D settings go to "manage 3D settings". Then under the program specific (or something like this) tab add your game and it should be good. You can also change your global settings somehow but I forgot how to
  14. Hi there! My brother got the Galaxy S5 about half a year ago and he's been having some battery and or charging issues along the way. To begin with we bought a "refurbished" phone from eBay, which came with a broken wall adapter. Although that was kind of a bummer he still had his old wall adapter (from a Galaxy S3 Neo) and the new cable worked anyway, although it was kind of slow to charge the entire battery. But the battery performance got worse over time and the charging issues got more and more annoying as well which made us buy both a new battery and wall adapter. The battery (obviously) worked right away but there are some issues with the new wall adapter. No matter with which cable you plug it into the phone, it just turns on the screen (like it would normally do when you start charging) but then stops charging immediately afterwards. Sometimes it keeps going and the notification LED lights up in a fixed interval. We've tried it with three different devices (all S5s, except one has the stock ROM on it, but that shouldn't make a difference) and the same happened on all of them. I searched for a solution online for a while but I didn't find any answers. I've got an idea myself why those issues are happening but I'm not sure. My guess is that the voltage could be too high and it is in fact higher on the new adapter. In this picture you can see the new adapter, an original S5 charger and the old charger (from left to right). I can also tell you that there's an "Adaptive Fast Charging" logo on the back of the new charger, that may help. My question is: Why does the new adapter not work? Thanks in advance EDIT: The new wall adapter is from amazon
  15. Yeah, the problem is just that I can't afford new hardware at the moment and that there aren't any settings that really change cpu load.
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