Jump to content

Limecat86

Member
  • Posts

    654
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Limecat86

  1. I think it doesn't with EK blocks. If you're careful with the O-rings and the jet plates laying on the micro fins, put everything back in the right place after cleaning it should be fine. I've opened up my blocks a few times over the years and put them back together without any issues after.
  2. It doesn't seem like corrosion to me but rather some residu of your coolant. Best thing to do is open up the blocks and give them a proper cleaning. Opening up the blocks should only require a hex key. Just be careful with the O-rings in your blocks. I've tried an opaque coolant once when I started watercooling just to discover that over time the nano-particles will fallout of suspension and clogging up my blocks. So basically it just distilled water with a biocide and a corrosion inhibitor for me now the last 4 years or so. Never has issues with my loop again and I'm replacing my coolant every year.
  3. Same here but with a 1080 FE (non-TI). Which would get, with the original cooler, up to 80C on a gaming session. On water it peaks at 50C.
  4. Well, it's not only the liquid that is bad. That kit involves (if i'm correct) a Copper CPU block with an Aluminum radiator. Copper and Aluminum in the same loop will cause some serious galvanic corrosion if your liquid doesn't have the required corrosion inhibitors. So keep that in mind when you're searching for new coolant.
  5. I still do play minecraft but not as often as I used too. It's nice to play with friends or on a whitelisted servers. Tried some public servers but most are full of angry 12 year old kids....
  6. Yes, liquid can pass through a pump that is not running. The whole idea of running two pumps in series is that, if one fails you can still use your system while looking for a new pump to replace the broken one. I'm using 2 DDC 3.2 pumps (serial) in my system and it still works fine if I pull the power from one of the pumps. Of course you will lose about half of the head pressure when running 1 pump instead of 2. Running two pumps in parallel is generally a bad idea...
  7. I would suggest the RM750i as it is cheaper. As far as I know the only difference is the platinum vs gold efficiency rating. I too have the RM750i. Can't say much else than that it's a solid and silent unit. The corsair link is nice gimmick which allows you to see your power draw and the unit can be set to single or multirail operation.
  8. As far as I know the minimum acceptable flow rate is around 0.5 GPM and anything above 1 GPM won't do much to your temps.
  9. Why wouldn't you just switch over to a good air cooler? A Noctua NH-D15 or a be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 should perform better that a 120mm AIO
  10. My guess is that the temperature sensor has gone wonky...
  11. Not really I'm afraid, assuming your GPU doesn't do anything while you're stress testing the CPU. If your GPU is idle it doesn't add much heat to the loop, so the CPU has (almost) the full 240mm for dissipating it's heat. It will be different when you start gaming though. Then both GPU and CPU will dump their heat on the loop.
  12. 25-30C for idle temps seems good to me and 60-70C won't hurt the CPU, but on stock I would expect it to be a bit lower. Then there is left that you're cooling a CPU + GPU with only an EK 240SE. The rule of thumb is 120mm per component + 120mm. Which means in your case you would need at least a surface total of 360mm². So I would add another radiator, preferably a 240mm one if money and space allow it.
  13. My Asus X99-A motherboard died a week ago and is replaced with an Asus X99 Sabertooth. Not really much has changed on the loop except that I had to go back using my EK Supremacy EVO CPU block. Had to mount it with the logo upside down so I wouldn't have to switch the tubings going in the GPU on the bottomside. Also, replaced the Thermatake Riing fans for Corsair's LL120 and a new color mixed from Mayhem's UV ice blue and a little bit of laser green.
  14. Banned for being clueless
  15. I don't have a temp sensor so it's a bit hard to tell... I did touched a fitting just to get an idea of how hot the fluid has gotten after an hour of gaming. My guess is around 35C ~ 40C. Ambient temperature is around 18C ~ 20C.
  16. 56C? That's really hot. What components are you cooling and how much radiator surface does your loop have? Minimum is 120mm per component + 120mm extra. However, I recommend at least 240mm per component for a good and silent cooling performance.
  17. Guess I could live with couching up fur-balls now and then. Meow!
  18. PETG? It's easier to bend than acrylic. You still need to heat it before bending... Or use angled adapters but those will add up to the price tag...
  19. I mostly agree with you. Personally I find the notch not that bad though, the missing headphone jack is a bit of a deal breaker and nothing wrong with the fingerprint scanner on the back, which is perfectly reachable with your index finger. I'm already owning an OP6 but if I would have to pick a new phone right now, I'd pick the 6 again.
  20. I'm running with distilled water and Mayhems X1 Clear for a while now. Never had any growth or corrosion happening in my loop. Also, X1 is free of glycol which makes it usable in loops that use PETG tubing.
  21. PhpStorm for most stuff (PHP, Javascript (NodeJs), (S)CSS and HTML). Notepad++ sometimes if I need to do a quick edit. (Mostly config files)
  22. Do you have anything nickel plated in your loop? If so then don't use vinegar, it'll cause oxidation to occur on the nickel. Use a vinegar/water mixture around 10/90 only for your rads. If you really want to thoroughly clean your nickel plated blocks, taking them apart and give them a gentle rubbing would be your best option. Another option you could try is running Mayhems Blitz Part 2 through your loop. Note that Part 1 is for radiators only!
×