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Limecat86

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About Limecat86

  • Birthday Apr 23, 1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    PC's (Duh), Webdevelopment, Fish tanks,
    Gaming, Movies, Pets
  • Occupation
    PHP Developer
  • Member title
    Fish-tank enthousiast

System

  • CPU
    Core i7 12700KF Grill Plate Edition
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z690-PLUS Wifi D4
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident Z 16GB 3200Mhz CL14
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1080 FE
  • Case
    Thermaltake Core X71
  • Storage
    Samsung EVO 960 500GB + Western Digital PC SN530 500GB + Samsung EVO 860 500GB + Samsung EVO 850 500GB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750i
  • Display(s)
    LG 34UC89G-B
  • Cooling
    Full custom loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K95 (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse
    Logitech Proteus Spectrum
  • Sound
    Logitech Z4
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

2,412 profile views
  1. I think it doesn't with EK blocks. If you're careful with the O-rings and the jet plates laying on the micro fins, put everything back in the right place after cleaning it should be fine. I've opened up my blocks a few times over the years and put them back together without any issues after.
  2. It doesn't seem like corrosion to me but rather some residu of your coolant. Best thing to do is open up the blocks and give them a proper cleaning. Opening up the blocks should only require a hex key. Just be careful with the O-rings in your blocks. I've tried an opaque coolant once when I started watercooling just to discover that over time the nano-particles will fallout of suspension and clogging up my blocks. So basically it just distilled water with a biocide and a corrosion inhibitor for me now the last 4 years or so. Never has issues with my loop again and I'm replacing my coolant every year.
  3. Same here but with a 1080 FE (non-TI). Which would get, with the original cooler, up to 80C on a gaming session. On water it peaks at 50C.
  4. Well, it's not only the liquid that is bad. That kit involves (if i'm correct) a Copper CPU block with an Aluminum radiator. Copper and Aluminum in the same loop will cause some serious galvanic corrosion if your liquid doesn't have the required corrosion inhibitors. So keep that in mind when you're searching for new coolant.
  5. I still do play minecraft but not as often as I used too. It's nice to play with friends or on a whitelisted servers. Tried some public servers but most are full of angry 12 year old kids....
  6. Yes, liquid can pass through a pump that is not running. The whole idea of running two pumps in series is that, if one fails you can still use your system while looking for a new pump to replace the broken one. I'm using 2 DDC 3.2 pumps (serial) in my system and it still works fine if I pull the power from one of the pumps. Of course you will lose about half of the head pressure when running 1 pump instead of 2. Running two pumps in parallel is generally a bad idea...
  7. I would suggest the RM750i as it is cheaper. As far as I know the only difference is the platinum vs gold efficiency rating. I too have the RM750i. Can't say much else than that it's a solid and silent unit. The corsair link is nice gimmick which allows you to see your power draw and the unit can be set to single or multirail operation.
  8. As far as I know the minimum acceptable flow rate is around 0.5 GPM and anything above 1 GPM won't do much to your temps.
  9. Why wouldn't you just switch over to a good air cooler? A Noctua NH-D15 or a be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 should perform better that a 120mm AIO
  10. My guess is that the temperature sensor has gone wonky...
  11. Not really I'm afraid, assuming your GPU doesn't do anything while you're stress testing the CPU. If your GPU is idle it doesn't add much heat to the loop, so the CPU has (almost) the full 240mm for dissipating it's heat. It will be different when you start gaming though. Then both GPU and CPU will dump their heat on the loop.
  12. 25-30C for idle temps seems good to me and 60-70C won't hurt the CPU, but on stock I would expect it to be a bit lower. Then there is left that you're cooling a CPU + GPU with only an EK 240SE. The rule of thumb is 120mm per component + 120mm. Which means in your case you would need at least a surface total of 360mm². So I would add another radiator, preferably a 240mm one if money and space allow it.
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