TheNuzziNuzz

@Mel0nMan
Okay so I think the issue is Samsung Magician. On the boots that don't result in a BSOD the app won't even start!

I just realized, I have some fast mode enabled for my drive in Samsung. And I think after a BSOD, I remember a pop-up saying magician failed to start. I'll try disabling magician and see what happens

I used to to this, until I realized that carrier phones with the carrier OS worked significantly better in terms of call quality and cell service in the USA.

I switched to T-Mobile, and they offered a 50% discount on my phone with a two year contract. Because of this, I came out cheaper than had I bought the phone myself...
 
Next, I paid off the phone in the first month. As a result, I actually was able to manually unlock the phone. Sure, my service is still in a two year contract - but I was able to get all the benefits of an unlocked phone with the benefits of being carrier locked. Best experience i've ever had with a carrier. My bill, including my phone is like $33/mo/person with their Magenta Max plan. That's the most expensive, unlimited plan.
 
$33/mo inluding the cost of the phone for unlimited? That's cheaper than most 10gb plans not including a phone.

Just measure (diagonally) how much space you want it to take up on the wall, and get the best TV you can afford in that size-ish. 
 
I bought an LG 55UN7300PUF for about $500 a couple years ago, it's great. Calibrated it with my X-Rite, and the color's almost perfect. 

The main differentiating features now are HDR and HDMI 2.1. 4K is a a function of screen size, and anything over 40" is basically just 4K now.
 
HDMI 2.1 is necessary for 4K@120Hz for the new generation of game consoles, and also has features like eARC that will be very beneficial if you get a soundbar or other home theatre speaker systems.
 
As far as HDR goes, the experience is very much dependent on the type of TV display technology you get. Your choices there are LED, OLED, and Mini LED/QLED. LED is the most basic type these days, and pretty much exclusively what you're going to find in the budget range, particularly at $500. LED suffers from an always on backlight, which makes it impossible to reproduce true black, necessary for any decent HDR viewing experience. Manufacturers compensate for this to a greater or lesser degree with local dimming zones. This allows the TV to selectively turn off the backlight in one or more zones to allow deeper blacks, but it's a very coarse grained control and leads to things like the halo effect you might have seen on displays when there's things like white text on black or a cursor, etc. Depending on the content, it can sometimes provide a passable HDR experience, but dark scenes will be a virtually unwatchable mess.
 
That's where OLED comes in. OLED doesn't have a separate backlight. Each pixel is individually controllable and can literally be turned completely off, which gives it the unparalleled ability to display true black. OLED however tends to be less bright than LED, making it a poor choice for a bright room with a lot of natural sunlight. It also can suffer from burn in, though that's actually very rare. Image retention is more commonly what people often mistakenly call burn in, but that's temporary and correctable. Virtually every OLED display has mitigation features to prevent even image retention from occurring, though. Regardless, if you want the absolute best viewing experience, nothing beats OLED,. currently.
 
Mini LED is a somewhat emerging tech that can provide a decent compromise. It's really still just LED, but the local dimming zones are increased from hundreds in the best LED displays, to thousands. It still suffers from the same artifacts like the halo effect, but to a lesser degree due to the many more local dimming zones. However, even then, thousands is a far cry from the effective 4 billion local dimming zones of OLED, with each pixel individually controlled.
 
QLED is proprietary to Samsung Displays and basically just combines the best of LED local dimming tech with quantum dots. That's a big topic in itself but suffice to say it just has better color reproduction than traditional LCD technology used in LED TVs (all "LED" TVs are technically LCD displays with LED backlights).
 
There's also Micro LED, but as far as I'm aware, there's still no commercially available TVs with that tech, yet, and the cost will be extreme when there are. However, it's going to be the display tech virtually all TVs will use in the future, as it combines all the benefits of LED and OLED, with none of the negatives. It's basically LED where each pixel has an individually controlled backlight LED, so you get the true blacks and infinite contrast of OLED, without the potential for burn in, as well as brighter displays overall. We're still years away from that being a practical reality, though.
 
All that said, at your budget, LED is going to be pretty much your only option. At smaller screen sizes like 42" or 55", you might be able to squeeze into OLED for under a $1000, but for watching from 10 ft away, you're probably going to want 65". 55" may be okay, depending on your personal preference. It's hard to speak for your here. I'm actually only 6 ft from my TV and I can't do smaller than 65” now, but I've also been on 65" for the past 6 years or so. Once you go bigger, it's hard to go smaller.
 

be quiet! Dark Power 12 PRO 1500, Corsair AX1600i, or if significantly cheaper - EVGA P2 and Super Flower Leadex Platinum SE.

Watch more LTT!  Linus has reviewed a couple of their products before.  
 
Newegg has some of their stuff, and I'm sure other vendors carry things, too.

The O11D XL can fit EEB boards and up to 3 PSUs if you fancy.  I'm not sure why EATX would conflict with radiators though. 

I'm pretty sure the ekwb block for the 3090 founder cards are single slot. 
Even if you do that though you are probably still going to run into ram temp issues with them that close together. Don't forget these cards have ram on the back of the card as well. 
Probably should get a board that has some additional spacing. My thread ripper board has 4 slots but there are two lower slots that have 2 slot spacing. 

The only thing I can find is ASUS and EKWB came together to create a water block RTX 3090.
 
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Graphics-Cards/ASUS/RTX3090-24G-EK/

What do you mean locked? Simply sounds like the drive died.

Reseated the CPU & re-applied thermal paste and max temps are ~70 under load, ~46 idle. 
 
Thanks!

Hi everyone, I found the optimal solution:
 
1. Rad on top, fans pulling, exhaust
2. Bottom intake
3. Side Exhaust
4. Rear intake! Sounds strange, but this gives the rad cold air.
 
The side exhaust now without resistance from the rad sucks the GPU air out so well I'm actually experiencing a ~15 degree drop in GPU temperatures all around...honestly very surprised. At idle right now the GPUs are ~33 and ~39. Ambient is about ~22. This is with the default fan curve, meaning the lower cooler card's fan isn't spinning at all while the top as at it's lowest (30%).
 
 

Server grade hardware might need more time to be validated to work correctly and stable.

What do you need more PCIe lanes for?  Sounds like as shitload of money for solely that.
 
I'm curious, I have no suggestions or advice.  Feel free to ignore if you want.

Zen 3 Threadrippers are just being late. For past generations Threadrippers are about 4~5 months later than Ryzen 7s of the same architecture, now it's already 9 months.
 
But if you just want PCIe lanes and dont care so much about the CPU's performance, 3960X already gives 64 PCIe 4.0 lanes on top of what the chipset has and I doubt Zen 3 TR will see any increase here.

If you don't need a high performance CPU as well, you could look at old Xeon processors. I think they get up to about 40 lanes. It will only be PCIe gen 3, but basically no GPU can fully saturate the bandwidth, or at least not to where it would be any significant bottleneck.

Multi GPU setups are still very useful in specific circumstances. I bought the Crosshair VIII Hero motherboard specifically for it's multi-gpu support. I do 3D graphics & animation, which 100% utilizes both of my RTX 3090s. NVlink is only available on the 3090, however it actually is completely unnecessary for my workload. Most NVlink workloads don't even need a bridge except for a few exceptions.
 
The bigger question for me is not about SLI/multi GPU support, but more PCI-E lanes. Any consumer chip (Ryzen 5950x or intel equivlent) only have 20 PCIe lanes. That means that with two GPUs, your limited to at least only PCIE 8x. So, I really don't understand selling a consumer level motherboard capable of 4x GPUs when each would only be getting 4 PCIe lanes. Even over PCIE 4.0 thats going to result in worse FPS & animation performance.
 
I'm looking into upgraded to Ryzen so I could use all 128 PCIe lanes to do up to 7 cards at full 16x speed.

Been running 3200 MHZ for at least 3 years with no issues. Only 32gb though. But, judging by the cost of 4x16, that would be close to $600 in ram. Not sure that's worth it for me right now since I plan on upgrading to threadripper in the future & i'll probably want all new ram for that.

https://www.neweggbusiness.com/product/product.aspx?item=9b-20-374-090
 
https://www.neweggbusiness.com/product/product.aspx?item=9b-20-821-422

here are some newegg results that would work. I included 2x16 and 2x32 kits since I don't know how many ram slots you have
 
I am running OLOy in my system without issue. I know a lot of people like Hyper x and Trident z
 
https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100006519 4814 601386107 600561668 601203950 601357120 600565672 100007611 600537276 600327642&PMSub=147+381&SrchInDesc=ddr4&cm_sp=Tab_Components_6-_-visnav-_-DDR4_3&Order=4

Woah, i hadn't even though about that. I was saying get two m.2 drives & raid them...but doing a software raid on the 1TB 860s is an even better idea. I'd rather not buy 2 2tb SSDs....at that price I mind as well start dreaming of buying a low-end grahpics card.

Ya know what, chuck it I'll just get a 3080ti or 3090 from eBay, that's a flex in it self these days considering the prices XD

Realistically, probably not. They are the best, but not the best value. These are Thermaltake knockoffs of the A12x25: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-ToughFan-Metal-Reinforced-Hydraulic-CL-F117-PL12BL/dp/B08K9FY47F/ 

Here is a review of them, and you can see they perform almost exactly the same: 


Considering that you can get one noctua fan for $32 and two of these for $39 you probably should be considering it.

At the same time, there might be something morally wrong about supporting a product like that.

Thank you! Yeah, I honestly couldn't tell you why I even picked this memory...i've had it for years. I'm open to suggestions from sombody who knows more on what to buy, but i'f i'm going to get a ram upgrade i'd want more than the 32gb I have now and that's going to be expensive. I'd like to see how far I can get with this first.
 
Honestly, I don't know anything about ram or what CAS impact is vs memory clock. Thank you for the tips though, i'll try playing with it! I know was I able to get these to 3200 mhz on my intel system with cas 15...so maybe I got a great bin and on 16 I can push them even farther.