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Tanaz

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About Tanaz

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  1. I have 2 monitors - Acer XB1 27'' 2560x1440@144hz and a Samsung CF34 3440x1440@100hz and I want to make a surround with them to play racing games. Unfortunately it seems Nvidia allows it only with the same displays. The 2 monitors have the exact same pixel density and height I don't understand why they don't allow me to make a surround with them. I literally have to start F1 2019 in windowed mode and resize it, with the taskbar hidden and the title bar constantly visible . Is there some third party software I can use?
  2. I guess this is more of a psychological thing. I want the " new shiny thing " without actually NEEDING it. Thank god I'm not a lottery winner, pretty sure I'd be one of those people that go bankrupt in a month lol.
  3. Obviously I'm not getting 144FPS in every game but as far as benchmarks show, the biggest differences in FPS come from 1080p gaming. When playing games my GPU is almost always in the 90%+ usage percentile. As far as time constraint, I'm not in a hurry for a video to render, I was just wondering if I will be able to use my PC for normal tasks while rendering cuz I've not used Premier in a long while and I kinda don't want to but the subscription with 0 knowledge of how intensive it will be on my computer, but I guess that's the only way.
  4. Hey guys, I'm at a crossroads as far as my PC goes and I need a helpful nudge in either direction. My dilemma comes down to wether or not the cost of upgrading is worth it for my use case and what would you guys do in my shoes. First off let's start with current PC specs: Corsair RM650x Gold rated PSU 650W ASUS Z270-a board 2x8 HyperX 2400mhz 6700k @ 4.5 ghz MSI Gaming X 1080ti 3x Kingston UV400 240GB SSDs Monitor1 : Predator XB1 - 2560x1440 144hz Monitor2 : Samsung CF34 - 3440x1440 100hz My setup is arranged in a way where the Acer is my main monitor as it is higher refresh rate and overall better for gaming and my Samsung is the secondary. What I basically use my computer for is: 1.Playing games at 2560x1440 at 144hz - I'm yet to feel some big bottleneck from my CPU but correct me if I'm wrong. 2.Keeping Chrome with 4-5 tabs open on second monitor + discord + spotify +viber. This also has worked out for me pretty well 3. Occasional stream/ recording my gameplay, but I use Nvenc for that so there is no CPU issue here. 4. This is more hypothetical but let's say I want to throw in a compilation of my gameplay together in Adobe Premier at 1080p. Would my CPU be enough to do that while browsing the web/ watching video? What I am thinking of upgrading to: Either 9900k + board + cooler that would set me back around 950-1100USD when converted to my currency depending on choices. Or Ryzen 3900x + new Ryzen board + 32GB of fast memory and new cooler that would set me back more like 2000 USD which is getting quite expensive at this point. Also not sure if PSU will be enough. I know I'm going to get a lot of answers that consist of " well it depends on wether or not you think it's worth it" but I want to ask your opinions and what would YOU do in my situation. Would upgrading to either one of these CPU's give me signifficant improvements in any of my use cases? Would I FEEL the difference and if so would I feel it more than my pocket getting 1000/2000$ lighter. I watched a lot of benchmarks this past few days and I am yet to see something that blows me away even with my old Skylake CPU that's supposed to be antiquated at this point.
  5. Update: Tested and the temps were not different. Cinebench and XTU stress tests give me max CPU temps of 73-75C (6700k @ 4.4) but Prime95 absolutely obliterates it raising it at 91C almost instantaniously. I feel like Prime95 is insanely unrealistic load.
  6. This is quite a flimsy piece of sheet metal. I'm not sure it won't just give out and bend/ break if I make more holes. I'm so annoyed that the only component that I left for the store to pick for me ( the case) was the wrong one. Adding 2 case fans lowered my temps by 18C on CPU and 10C on GPU. I just don't wanna invest 200$ in another case...
  7. I'm more of a function over form type of guy. But if I explore your idea, do I just glue the mesh to the plastic?
  8. So basically my PC was getting choked out because it didn't have enough airflow and it had only 2 case fans and my case was made for watercooled CPU'S and had only 1 fan hole (but 2 fan holes on the chasis I'm guessing it's a common chasis made to save money for multiple towers). I cut the front panel's plastic to make room for another fan and put a second fan in the back top section for exhaust. However I didn't want my front fans to stay exposed so I removed the metal cover that was initially on the plastic and drilled holes into it. My question is are those holes enough and will they obstruct airflow?
  9. Sorry for waking this old topic up but I have some news. This issue is happening due to static electricity buildup inside the switch. It is usually caused by low humidity. I literally unplugged the mouse to use my back up and a few days later tried it out again just to see what happens .Lo and behold the mouse worked again and it worked perfectly until the weather got chilly and I had to turn my AC on. A few days went by and the problem returned. At this point I realised it simply HAD to be a non-hardware issue and I found a lot of people claiming that the omron switches suffer from this static build up and the only way to fix this is to unplug the mouse and press all the buttons in order to allow the static to discharge. After I did that my mouse worked again! Now I am almost certain that my previous mice had the same issue as well and would have probably worked had I unplugged them and let the static discharge. What a weird weird querk..
  10. Because they advertised their "new" switches with the G900 and G502 hero that are supposed to have 50 million click durability. I fell for set advertising thinking they'd be using the Japanese omrons which they're not. It's my fault I admit and it won't happen again.
  11. It's not a clone. They are both made by Omron but the switch itself is different. As you can see in the picture the button is metal instead of plastic and the plate beneath it is more solid. The chinese Omrons cost 1/3 of the price of the Japanese ones. I think other than the price most gaming mice are made with the chinese switch simply so they avoid shipping from Japan which would add to the cost.
  12. Zero drops and zero harsh treatment towards mine. And usually the left click goes on mine which is particularly weird because I play MOBAs and my right click is much more abused.
  13. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-LOT-New-Authentic-OMRON-Mouse-Micro-Switch-D2FC-F-7N-Mouse-Button-Fretting/2026708442.html I guess that's a misprint. If you disassemble any Logitech mouse those are the switches you will find there. There's a picture of the difference inside the switch between the Japanese and Chinese ones.
  14. Exactly right. From what I've read the Japanese Omrons are actually extremely high quality.
  15. Just googling "logitech doubleclick" returns hundreds of support tickets to logitech and forum threads. You could say that's not an accurate measurement of percentage failed mice but it still shows it is a fairly common issue. I see you're a mouse expert I'd be really greatful if you gave me a list of mice that don't use these switches.
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