GSTARR

The jayztwocents video was talking about the 7950x3d and the problem had to do with the software switching between the 3d v cache cores and the normal ones. The 7800x3d only has 3d v cache cores so it's super solid and has great performance.

Remember that time we got kicked outta biology for playin' with Matchbox cars?...
 
Ok, a bit of a primer here:  I am not a PC guy. The last time I built any kind of PC (that wasn't inside a gaming controller) was almost 17 years ago. Back then for a brief period of time I worked for a small shop in Red Deer that built custom computers and sold Warhammer. Since then I was a technician at Apple, I restore old Arcade hardware from the 70's and 80's, and I refuse to acknowledge the existence of a PC Master Race (#FightingWords) . Ask anyone who's known me for the last 39 years of my life: Not a PC guy.  But what I am is a McLaren fan. Like, grew up with papaya orange blood in my veins, childhood hero was Senna, made a pilgrimage from my home in Alberta to Donnington Park to see the collection kinda fan. A few years back a buddy of mine from Apple started getting deep into Sim racing after a bunch of us spent the evening at a now defunct Racing Sim venue here in Calgary. Since then every time the Wife and I would visit them for dinner I'd always end up spending the better part of the evening glued to the alcantara steering wheel attached to his simulator. Then one day I had a weird idea that I should build my own, but something a little ostentatious, over the top, likely not practical, and most definitely not fiscally responsible, (all of which I have a tendency to do when I focus on a new project).
 
By this point I had discovered the ridiculously crazy Overdrive PC case from Azza and I knew that it had to be the jumping off point for something cool. I absolutely HATE the idea of 3 split monitors whit the stupid little plastic blenders to cover the middle bezels so a Samsung G95NC is in order. I haven't really landed on what I'm doing for a racing seat/frame yet, or pedals and a wheel base for that matter, but I know I'd like to have the ability to go from F1/LMP posture to GT without too much work. However I also really like the idea of getting my hands on a full cockpit shell like the FRS from Moza and wrapping it in McLaren colours and sponsors using my Cricut. I think it's funny that on most sim rigs you see the PC looks like an afterthought, hidden away in the back where you cant get to it or see it. I'm aiming to mount the Azza case on some sort of frame behind the seat (Read: Proper engine placement to go fast).  
 
For those not in the know, McLaren has been using some form of a Mercedes AMG High Performance Powertrains engine for the better part of the last 30 years (...we dont talk about 2015-2020 in this house). So the idea is to theme the PC in the direction of the look of the current Mercedes-AMG M14 E Performance V6 turbo hybrid engine. Carbon wrap, orange and black corrugated loom for the wire management, blue zip ties, and the occasional bright red fitting. For spec of the PC we're not going toooo crazy, but somewhat practical with a long game upgrade path: AMD 7800X3D, ROG X670E-E, Gskill DDR 5, WD Black SN850x boot drive, and a placeholder of a GPU in the form of an MSI 3070 Ti (im not buying into 4000 series either).  A smattering of BeQuiet! Lightwings, Keychron K6, Razor Basilisk v3 Pro, will round out the build. The cooling loop(s) will be as much for looks as they are to burn a hole in my wallet, 8 (eight) Alphacool radiators, custom mounting brackets, enough EK parts to bankrupt a small country, and some monitoring bits from Aquacomputer. I'll get this out of the way now, the loop idea is borrowed from the Chillblast Icon F1, but I know I can improve on it both for drainage and looks. No matter what you tell me, it's not as crazy or involved as plumbing out a pool.  I do have a soft spot for PC games from the 90's so when I realized Homeworld 3 had been announced I decided at the very least allow this build to also take advantage of more then just the ability to take the apexes on Eau Rouge and Raidillon.
 
Budget wise, ...I'm not sure how to write this part, but there is no budget... I work in the camera department in Film and Television, and this last summer has been quite hard on a lot of us. Rightfully so, we're going to be spending money in places I know are stupid. Chillblast wants to charge people £10,000 British pounds for theirs. I can do it for less than a third of that.  That being said though it makes more sense to do this in phases:
 
Phase 1: Build a PC
Phase 2: Liquid cool said PC
Phase 3: Build a Sim rig
Phase 4: Go Fast. 
 
Spoiler Alert: I'm already done Phase 1, but thats not going to stop me from documenting this build step by step here on the LTT forums. As with every project I work on, I like to document the progress on my Flickr account. If you wanna read ahead, or see more pictures of the build you can always head over there and check out the ever expanding gallery I have there. At any rate, let's get started...
 

Got it, basically I am an idiot. Eveyrthing is working fine and I am installing windows now. Thank you for the quick response both. Here is what I messed up in case any one else shows up here and it helps them.
 
a. The AIO was not plugged into the fans it is attached to.
b. I thought the older style case fans only attaced to the controller, and not also to the motherboard (that's why there were two fan wires, duh).
 
I was also getting a cpu fan error because I had the AIO plugged into the wrong fan header.
 
So yeah, all good now, and thann you very much for the help!

I second this, i7 1200kf is more than enough. I was getting ~130 fps with a 5820k from almost a decade ago. I would get a 4090 and enjoy it for quite a while!
 
 

When I look up your CPU these are the specs I see for RAM:
 
2x1R: DDR4-3200 2x2R: DDR4-3200 4x1R: DDR4-2933 4x2R: DDR4-2667   I don't know if XMP has to follow these rules, or if it really is the max speed capable. But it would explain why your 4 channels are running at 2667  

Make sure that RAM is one of the supported memory models for the motherboard...it''s on the motherboard's website under "support." Better chance the XMP profile will work than if you use a model not on that list - afaik.
 
       XMP is an overclock of the memory to make it go faster - however it's become so commonplace that when you buy RAM, the advertised speed is with an XMP profile they've loaded onto the memory. I.E. it won't reach that speed unless you tell it to overclock - which is very simple but overclocking can be a gamble on how well the product  was manufactured. Better to play it safe and buy a model that was tested on the motherboard, so you know when you turn XMP on it should run like normal and fine 🙂
 
I took a quick glance at that large spreadsheet, and I tried to ctrl-F the model and it didn't come up. But you might double check more thoroughly
 
You're also buying an expensive m.2, but it's only pcie 3.0 when you have 4.0 slots. Not a huge deal, plenty fast. But might as well get the pcie 4.0 right?

If power draw is a concern, you should really get a UPS to protect the computer from spikes (and dips).
~200$ (USD) to ensure your computer is safe
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BCMLLSHL/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

You have to compare specific models rather than brands. All of the manufacturers have had good motherboards, and they all have for a while (the best Z170 board, for instance, is the Z170M OC Formula from ASRock, the best Z97 board is the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SOC Force LN2, the best Z390 board is the ASUS Maximus XI Apex, the best Z590 board is the EVGA Z590 Dark, and MSI had the best AM4 board with the B550 Unify-X), and they all have had some pretty terrible motherboards. Even within the same price range you can have boards that are mediocre and boards that are good (B660M PG Riptide is an amazing board for the price, while something like the H670 PG Riptide is mediocre at best for the same money). 
 
The only thing the brand should really tell you about a board is who's RMA department you'd have to deal with and what their BIOS is going to look like. For the quality of the motherboard it's basically meaningless. 

asrock is good for mid range mobos. There lga 1700 offerings are a bit overpriced in my opinion for a mid range product. 

Right, so get a 7800XT now, and then with holiday sales get the rest.
 
If you're already willing to spend 1000 Euro on a GPU alone, you're in the big leagues.  You're NOT poor if you can buy 1000E cards.
 
I do very well and have yet to spend 1000 on a GPU, so yeah...  I can talk maximum efficiency.  
 
 

And actually disconnect the capacitor from the circuit of course.

You can't do such tests with a multimeter on a motherboard.
 
Multimeter uses a low current to measure resistance, that low current would simply charge up the capacitor and you don't get a meaningful value.
Also, on motherboards capacitors are often installed in parallel, or they're in series with inductors or other components that will affect the measurements.
 
Either way, resistance measurement doesn't tell you anything about a capacitor being good or bad. On electrolytic capacitors, you need to measure the ESR, and you can't measure ESR with regular multimeters because ESR must be measured with an AC signal. You would need an ESR meter or a LCR meter with ESR function.
 
 

Honestly, X99 is nearly a decade old and I don't think the quality of the board is going to matter at all at this point, since it could die for any number of reasons and there's so many years of usage which you can't account for, which could lead to different kinds of physical and temperature stress, corrosion, etc.
 
These old CPUs can also get comprehensively beaten by an i3-12100 / H610 combo in games *, so it doesn't really seem worth it from a performance POV either, unless you desperately need PCI-E lanes or something.
 
*
 
 

Not really. It could have been some sort of short, but it's not super likely. 
 
Some boards will bootloop with a dead CPU installed or with no CPU installed, while other boards will just stay on. 

The metal around that hole works as part of the ground plane. 

Thanks you for your suggestions. I've taken notes. From what I gather, I'm able to make use of my budget from this. I think my biggest task for this build will be researching component compatibility as well as getting myself familiar with the various competing manufacturers and decide which essentially would meet my needs. That being said of course, from you mentioned here I do have somewhat of an idea what you meant with in regards to the 4070. I do know that there is somewhat some mixed ratings regarding the GPU but I do acknowledge that in essence, from everything I want out of this build that it will most likely exceed my basic expectations for what I want my build to be capable of. Which of course, is never a bad thing! So thank you very much for having the time to share this with me! 🙂

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bkFvVW\
 
This is somewhere to start. Most people go with some AMD card over the 4070, I forget what it's called but the moment you mention a 4070 I'm sure someone will call you out and mention it.
 
I'm also wary of the PSU...I would rather find a used V500/V650 from Cooler Master or a 600W PSU from Corsair....I haven't really looked into EVGA's PSU's that much.
 
I also have no idea how performance oriented this is - I just know it's a relatively new i7 and a 4070. You will be fine doing almost anything.
 
Also, the case has a glass panel, but there will be little to look at. I continue to see this case pop up so I assume it works fine.

I forgot mine was curved within a day of using it

I welcome this, it would accelerate the exodus of any well-adjusted person from the platform until only the shitlords remain. 

It doesn’t, it will spread out to cover all of your components. Good airflow is important for that reason. I don’t game much, but I do run distributed computing like F@H, and WCG. In turn my system will be at full load for extended periods of time. And always highly overclocked because stock sucks.

you want the rad higher then the cpu block so if there a bubble it will sit at the top of the rad then in the cpu block.
tubes up or down dont matter with an aio. on custom loops the thory was one way made it harder to get the bubbles out and was a bit harder to fill the loop but once filled and air bubble out dose not matter. all you need to do is have the res above the pump. and not have the cpu block the highest point.
 
i guess with an aio and an bubble you want tubes down so you can trap the bubble up top in the rad i guess.

Most GPUs 99% of the airflow goes into the case, the vent on the back is just to allow any minor air leakage to escape, not to actually actively vent out there (except in blower or hybrid cards like the NVIDIA FE models).

If the pump is higher up that the top of the radiator yes, also the recommendation that the pipes should be at the bottom (so the air pocket isnt where the pipes enter the radiator) which can be tricky to reach.

Option B (Negative) is likely to perform quite a bit better.
 
Blowing some dust out every now and then is not a big deal.

Bro that dude is insane 😂 it definitely encouraged me not gonna lie, and thank you for the video and helping me bro ! I think now you know what i wanna get