GSTARR

if you mainly play fps games I'd go 1080 - if you prefer story games I'd go 1440p Also, I was just watching a video the other day from jayztwocents talking about his 7800x3d and how when he was multitasking while gaming (like streaming or other cpu intensive workloads) it messed with the cpu's ability to fully utilize the 3d cache. Might check that video out and see if it's applicable in your case

Double check the power connectors (SATA for the included controller) are securely plugged in. Might as well pull them out and reconnect them to be sure. Also try disconnecting them from the controller, and connecting them straight to the mother board to see if they spin up. When you plug in your PSU, it should be in the off position, right by where the cable plugs in (The wall outlet cable). But, capacitors still retain some current even after you turn it off so rgb turning on when you plug it in wouldn't terribly surprise me

I second this, i7 1200kf is more than enough. I was getting ~130 fps with a 5820k from almost a decade ago. I would get a 4090 and enjoy it for quite a while!

I'm not the best person to give advice here, not enough knowledge. But I can tell you that if I suspected windows screwed with something in the middle of using my computer, I would be reinstalling windows. You can decide whether to keep your files or not...

Well if you have the receipts you can exchange them for 2 64gb sticks and you can then get the 2 channel ram Or you can accept a small loss, sell your sticks and buy 2 64gb sticks Edit: Reading all of these technical posts after posting this, telling you to just buy different sticks was a hilarious addition to this thread

I purchased the microcenter bundle Ram: F4-3200C16D-16GVKB Mobo: ASUS TUF Gaming B550 Plus WiFi II BIOS: 3404 (Newest, as I thought updating might fix the issue) Curious to see what you say, I just game so I dont think 2133 -> 3200 will be noticeable, just an annoying issue that I think I shouldnt have.

When I look up your CPU these are the specs I see for RAM: 2x1R: DDR4-3200 2x2R: DDR4-3200 4x1R: DDR4-2933 4x2R: DDR4-2667 I don't know if XMP has to follow these rules, or if it really is the max speed capable. But it would explain why your 4 channels are running at 2667

Would you mind explaining more? I have some 3200Mhz ram (obviously only 3200 w/ XMP enabled) but cannot get it to work with my AM4 platform - the only thing I can guess prior to giving up and claiming silicon lottery is that it's because the specific memory modules aren't listed as confirmed to work with the motherboard. Seems highly unlucky I couldn't get an XMP profile to run on two different platforms now, as my old x99 couldn't achieve a normal XMP profile either.

Make sure that RAM is one of the supported memory models for the motherboard...it''s on the motherboard's website under "support." Better chance the XMP profile will work than if you use a model not on that list - afaik. XMP is an overclock of the memory to make it go faster - however it's become so commonplace that when you buy RAM, the advertised speed is with an XMP profile they've loaded onto the memory. I.E. it won't reach that speed unless you tell it to overclock - which is very simple but overclocking can be a gamble on how well the product was manufactured. Better to play it safe and buy a model that was tested on the motherboard, so you know when you turn XMP on it should run like normal and fine I took a quick glance at that large spreadsheet, and I tried to ctrl-F the model and it didn't come up. But you might double check more thoroughly You're also buying an expensive m.2, but it's only pcie 3.0 when you have 4.0 slots. Not a huge deal, plenty fast. But might as well get the pcie 4.0 right?

Question for you, as I think we bought the same bundle from microcenter (B550 TUF WIFI PLUS II?) - did you actually get the RAM to reach 3200mhz? I couldn't, and I also couldn't find them on the mobo's approved model list... which is kind of crappy on microcenter's part but maybe there's something I didn't enable that you did?

Do you live near a microcenter Do you need a mouse + keyboard + monitor For 700$ I think the quality of the stream might be questionable, depending on what game you're playing (if it's videogames) and your internet connection. But probably doable? Edit: nevermind, just read the prebuilt part

I would double check that RAM compatibility with your CPU and mobo I looked into your parts because I personally just made the mistake of not coordinating my cpu + mobo + ram. I might be wrong, because Intel is being annoying and using MT instead of MHz, but it looks like the max you could go on the 13900K is 5600 "MT" on DDR5, which is obviously different from the 6000Mhz ram you said you plan on getting... I would go to pcpartpicker.com and plug in your mobo + cpu, and then go to ram and filter results by the highest speed ram you can get (again, I think it's 5600 MHz...but XMP is an overclock to begin with so does it even matter what Intel says the limit is?) and then sort by latency. Choose the lowest one that fits in your budget, and then check the model # on the motherboard's website Edit: And to your original question, no I haven't heard of that...if the ram model # is on the motherboard's website as a verified set of ram, and it won't work, and it's within the CPU's limit - to me that says there's an issue somewhere. You've seriously lost the silicon lottery, or something tragic to that effect...

Hey guys, I will have to buy a new motherboard, and figured I ought to wait for 14th gen intel to come out. Buying such a new cpu will stress my budget, and I will definitely be buying a mid to low tier motherboard. I was hoping someone could give a quick run down of who people like in this category and who they are wary of. Asrock for instance used to be a laughing stock, but I watched the Asus video from Jazytwocents where he said he would seriously consider going with asrock over asus - so I have no idea where the market is anymore and dont want to assume the big guys like MSI, ASUS, Gigabyte, and EVGA are still top quality products, especially in the budget range...

If power draw is a concern, you should really get a UPS to protect the computer from spikes (and dips). ~200$ (USD) to ensure your computer is safe https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BCMLLSHL/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

400 off of marketplace, which is very different from the (400 + a modest budget of 300) 700$ youd spend to get a mobo+cpu+gpu that satisfies your desire for optimal efficiency If we all had $$ laying around, nobody would be asking which part to upgrade!!

Im reading through the comments here, and not to add to your paranoia and confusion, but I CAN tell the difference between 240hz and 144hz. Its not as jarring as going down to 60hz, but it is visibly different once youre used to 240 Personally, I love my odyssey G7 32". But if color is your end all be all, then I would go for an OLED with the highest refresh rate you find

Personally, at 1440p, I went from a 5820k-1080ti to a 5820k-4070 and it was incredible, irregardless of the fact that the 5820k is holding it back BF2042 went from 70fps to around ~130 Cod (multiplayer, not warzone, although that went up too) went from 90 to 120-130 I saw massive jumps in almost all my games, and the single player games especially. I suspect your i9 9900k will be just fine with a 4070, and your gaming performance will be excellent. The only comment I would have is that if playing catch up every few years isnt to your liking (upgrade gpu, then cpu falls behind, upgrade cpu then gpu falls behind), then you might just have to take an L here eith the 4070 and save up, or dont buy anything rn and save up

@mariushm thanks guys! I suppose then that I wont be doing this anytime soon. I'm hoping in the next year or two I'll be able to comfortably afford tools to fix this guy, or at the very least learn how to properly diagnose the situation and declare it beyond me with 100% certainty.

Hey guys, With everything powered off and unplugged - what resistance should I expect on good capacitors? Im reading (on the 20K setting on my multimeter): 1) multiple at~0.2-0.6 (I stopped testing them at that point) and they were increasing by 0.05 2) A couple that were still in that range, but only increasing by 0.01 3) A couple that jumped into 6.xx and 7.xx and then only increased by .01 after that If it depends on the motherboard, what is the name of the layout, what specs should I be looking for?

Thats what I figured I would do. I had my eye set on upgrading to a 6900k, or a 6950x that I would buy a 360mm aio alongside. But this issue has forced my hand and made me rethink buying old mobo's, and idk if youve checked lately but I could buy a whole budget system for what these people are charging for new X99 Deluxe's

Yes I do

I'll do some reading tonight but I thought they were for extra stability. If that's true, then that's like saying you've got too strong an immune system. And while immune systems dont cost anything, prices are already outrageous. I think if you focus on build quality and heatsinks (which may or may not be the right way to look at mobos, idk) youre already screwed and youve (probably) already got that extra 4 pin Right?

Hey guys, I need you to weigh in on the matter of buying a used premium x99 board, vs upgrading to a cheaper (in terms of quality), yet newer, mobo+cpu that will be budget constrained (250$). I am leaning towards buying the older premium board, what is causing me to hesistate is my uncertainty about avrg lifespans of motherboards. I had an Asus X99 Deluxe that died a month after OC'ing my 5820k. My initial thought was that because it crapped out only after putting an OC on my 5820k (a modest 4.2/3 Ghz when most usually go to 4.5), I should focus on getting a premium board that should be more stable when doing an OC and stressing out components My next thought was the X99 Deluxe WAS a premium board. But it was also, afaik, the first x99 board they made, and similar to a car that is the first of a new line it usually has its issues that get ironed out. There is the x99 Deluxe II that added an extra 4pin power connector that is supposedly for stable power during OC'ing. But a newer cpu+mobo regardless of its lack of features such as heatsinks, extra power connectors for OC'ing, and increase in build quality over other models, should be able to handle an OC just fine for a number of years. It will also give me a chance to get the newer PCIe version, although not sure how much that matters. Should also be important to note here thay bc of budget constraints I WOULDNT be upgrading to ddr5 I believe the x99 Deluxe II is a risky choice given its age, but I also believe the X99 Deluxe's failure is biasing me. I threw that thing in my luggage and flew it across the country 6-7 times, I drove it across the country still in the case bouncing around. That thing was a beast. Until I OC'd it... What is your opinion?

I will take another look, but everything looked ok and i ran my fingers lightly along the capacitors and they didnt wobble...