byalexandr

So, you're missing quite a few drivers... What you can do is right-click on each of those devices, then go to Properties > Details > Change the property to Hardware IDs. From there you can look up the VEN_#### and the DEV_#### with a PCIe/PCI lookup site online to figure out what the chip is on that device, and try to find a driver for it. Now, those are probably all built-in chips on your board just looking at the names. That said, did you confirm the card isn't just working? A lot of USB stuff is native, especially NEC/Renesas/Intel, because they are freaking old.

It's dummy hard to read, but from experience in seeing the chip enough, I think that's a Renesas/NEC - µPD720201. Any manufacturer that has a card with the 720201 in it, should have a driver you could install that should work. That said, try connecting a USB flash drive or something first to just see if it shows, or check under your USB controllers for it. I don't remember how this specific chip reports, but it should be pretty obvious.

I think, and I'm going off memory from work here, the uPD720201 should show with VEN_1912 and DEV_0014.

I went to my local Best Buy to try some out and the Basilisk definitely seemed nice. Also the Corsair something or another but I didn't like the texture on it that I know would pick up a bunch of dirt and stuff over a short period.
 
They were out of stock of most stuff though, guess since it's the holidays, so I might go to Micro Center tomorrow to pick one up.

Somewhat yeah actually, that one looks like it would work. I'd prefer one with a bare board and a female USB input so I can print a small case and use a generic cable, instead of the converter being part of the cable. But I think like you said the best route it to just solder a USB connection to the input side of a standard buck converter.

After creating the pool with just one 6TB WD Red, I may not even expand the pool, at least for a while. I moved a lot of CRAW photos from my camera(s) and several games in my Steam library and still not even close to any real storage utilization lol.
 
I also found out that I will need some specialty hardware from HP to install a second 3.5" drive (as my machine only came with a 2.5" SSD), even though there is another slot for a second 3.5". Overall pretty happy with the performance though, for just a single 5400rpm drive, I get around 100MB/s transfer speeds which is pretty close to saturating the gigabit connection. Don't think I will really play games off of it (probably move the games over to my SSD first) but convenient not to have to redownload stuff all the time.

One thing that you REALLY need to research with ZFS is expanding/growing your storage. It's not always a straight forward process. So make sure you understand any limitations in your chosen storage setup.
 
For example, if you start with a single drive, you may not be able to just toss in more drives and grow the storage. You may need to have a temporary storage location, and drives in the pool may be wiped.
 
ZFS did introduce a new RAIDZ Expansion feature (allows adding to a RAIDZ pool one drive at a time and growing it), but it was still in beta last year. I'm not sure if it's been publicly released yet.
 
TL;DR, TrueNAS and ZFS are both great, but do your research and understand how it works.

I joined on January 5, 2013. Been a long time!

I joined on January 5, 2013. Been a long time!

I joined on January 5, 2013. Been a long time!

I joined on January 5, 2013. Been a long time!

I joined on January 5, 2013. Been a long time!

I joined on January 5, 2013. Been a long time!

Well, desktop didn't come in yet, but the APs did (along with my CAT5e spool and RJ45 crimpers) so I set them up in the appropriate areas around the house. WiFi coverage and speed is much improved, averaging about 500Mbps in line of sight of the APs and around 150-300Mbps through walls (depending how many walls); decent enough for wireless even though my wired connections are much faster. Overall the TP Link AC1200 APs are pretty good value for the money, and I like how I can configure the broadcast SSID through a remote login, or even switch between different modes (though they will always serve as APs). The AT&T gateway has the WiFi broadcast turned off now, so one step closer to bypassing it as much as possible and getting a solid home network together.

Another update:
 

 
Ended up ordering another HP ProDesk 600 G1 to make a small file server, as I've been wanting to offload my raw video files and other media from my laptop, which is absolutely dying anytime I access file explorer lol. I'll probably just grab a couple 8TB SATA drives and throw them in there with no RAID config to make a 16TB file server, which should be enough for the time being. With the file server coming, I also introduced another switch after the pfSense router/before the AT&T gateway, just to add more LAN ports to the pfSense router outside of the bigger 16-port switch. The extra switch will allow me to keep the gateway, router, server, etc. all in one location (in the family room TV console, also allowing the TV to have a wired connection), so I won't have to access the cable box/patch panel as much as possible.
 
I think the AT&T gateway should be okay coming off an unmanaged switch, as it's still behind pfSense so no issue with security or a network loop. Most of the equipment comes in today, so I have pfSense ready on a USB drive. Will post another update after some configuration and setting everything else up.

Yep, ONT is separate on the 210. After I read that the 'dumb switch' method doesn't tend to work all the time and would have to be reset every time the power is cycled, I found that packet forwarding solution that makes it a "true bridge" at least, much better than the IP passthrough that the gateway has (which still sends all the traffic through the gateway's NAT tables, negating any benefits).
 
I actually asked AT&T if they could at least give me a different model gateway during the several times they replaced the gateway, since the 210 has a reputation of being a POS, but they assured me that's the best they can give me with the 1g Fiber. Had I asked them for the 2g or 5g Fiber when we moved in, they would've had to run the fiber line into the house with a different gateway instead of how it already was where the ONT is outside the house and only copper comes inside.
 
I already switched my cell plan over to Verizon, has been so much better than AT&T. Unfortunately the house we moved into was already wired with AT&T so kind of stuck with it... Definitely staying away from AT&T in the future, they really are the worst.

As much as I'd love to have an actual rack decked out with Ubiquiti gear, it's just too much at this point in time. When I have my own house I'll definitely have a network rack, rack mounted NAS, and more importantly an ISP that allows me to use my own equipment...
 
As far as setting up the PFSense box, I'll be referring to this pretty thorough guide: https://github.com/MonkWho/pfatt
 
My current house does have a patch panel, so I can set up my switch in there and put a couple APs around the house. Otherwise the PFSense router will sit next to the BGW210 where the ONT comes in. The PC has pretty decent specs for only $70 (no OS which is not a problem of course), and the HP NIC uses an Intel chipset as far as I'm aware, so decent start there. I could even buy a single GbE port NIC, and just use a cheap 100mb USB adapter to connect to the BGW210 gateway, but the NICs at my local Micro Center have pretty bad Realtek chipsets and I've heard it's best to just stick to Intel.
 

Did a lot more reading...
 
I'm going to set up a pfsense box using an HP 705 G1 and NC360T dual GbE NIC ($83 for both on eBay, A10-7800, 8GB and 256GB SSD). With FreeBSD installed I can set up a "true bridge" instead of having the AT&T gateway in passthrough mode, where the router is using an EAP proxy to forward any authentication packets to the BGW210, otherwise keeping the rest of the traffic solely through the new router and being connected directly to the ONT. From there I'll run the LAN to one of the many unmanaged switches I have laying around to provide wired network at the patch panel to my devices around the house and set up a decent AP for wireless connectivity (either a UniFi 6 Lite or TP Link AC1350, since I only have 1gb from the ISP anyways).
 
I looked at a bunch of routers and a pfsense box really seems like the only way to have full control over the network and allow me to bypass the AT&T gateway as much as possible.

i5-12400 is faster, i5-12500 has a better integrated graphics that should help with video editing, they are also low on the power consumption side. 5600 is fine as well, although it lacks integrated graphics. The choice is yours.

2060 is totally fine, actually from what I've observed many workstations use the 2060. 3060 is preferred due to it being both faster and having more VRAM.
 
 
 

After some more testing, I found it was the router/modem at fault. After eliminating the switch entirely and plugging directly into the router, it would still drop connection after a couple minutes. AT&T said everything was fine (of course they would) but sent out a technician anyways and he replaced the router. It's been working great since then.
 
As a side note, I wish AT&T would stop giving consumers ancient routers, I mean the router control panel is the same exact software as the DSL router I had 10 years ago. Anyways, fiber Internet is great.

No it's for systems without x16 slots lol

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Stay fresh to death
 

 
Ew I need to shave

This one looks pretty good:
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7010-SFF-Intel-Core-i7-3-40GHz-16GB-New-256GB-SSD-Win-10-Pro/174350040680?hash=item2898127e68:g:Hw4AAOSw2xBfDx5d
 
Has a 3rd gen i7-3770 and 16GB of RAM along with a 256GB SSD. All I would need to buy is the 1650 at that point, 256 is plenty for Windows 10 and a few programs and one or two games I think. If not SSDs are cheap and I can add another one.
 
Not really looking to upgrade this PC for at least a couple years, hence why I'm spending so little. I just need a solid desktop for now that I can manage my business with; I just like the slim towers and the 1650 comes in half height.

try to find a 3rd gen i7, it will make a big difference. I would not recommend a 3rd gen i5, it will feel slow and sluggish even in excel and browsing and it would definitely bottleneck a 1650.

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