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ohitsluca

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About ohitsluca

  • Birthday Oct 09, 1987

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  • Steam
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  • Battle.net
    ohItsLuca#1904
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Albany, NY
  • Occupation
    Semiconductor R&D

System

  • CPU
    Intel i9-13900k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z690 Force
  • RAM
    64GB DDR5 Corsair Dominator 5600mhz
  • GPU
    Gigabyte RTX 4090 AERO OC
  • Case
    Hyte Y60 (White)
  • Storage
    2TB WD SN850x + 1TB WD SN750
  • PSU
    MSI MPG A1000G PCIE5
  • Display(s)
    34" Samsung G8 OLED
  • Cooling
    iCUE LINK H150i RGB 360mm AIO; Corsair QX Fans
  • Keyboard
    GMMK Pro; Durock Dolphin Silent Switches
  • Mouse
    Logitech G Pro Superlight
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD598SE Headphones / Bose Companion 2 Series III Speakers / Hyper X Quadcast S Mic
  • Operating System
    Windows 11

Recent Profile Visitors

1,178 profile views
  1. I saw that the 13900k is very hot. I am a little bit concerned about my AIO. I am currently using a Corsair iCUE H115i RGB PRO XT cooler. Do you think it will handle it? (Corsair gave me screws for the LGA-1700 socket) Does the Z790 worth the extra money? Or just go with a Z690. Will my PSU (Corsair HX1000i Platinum) handle the power? 1. It does run hot, but if you are primarily gaming you should be fine with that cooler. I have a h150i with fans set low (950 RPM) and i'm usually 65-80C in game. If you are doing anything more intensive beyond gaming, you will throttle (but so does my 360mm) 2. Z790 has PCI-E Gen 5 m.2 drive support, and can handle some faster DDR5 OC speeds. I chose to go with Z690 because I did not foresee myself needing either of those anytime soon, but if those are important to you go with Z790. FYI - if you go with Z690, the motherboard you get will need a BIOS update to use 13th gen CPU's. So be sure to get a motherboard that has a BIOS flashback feature, allowing you to update the BIOS with no CPU installed. (Alternatively, if you have a 12th gen CPU lying around you can boot with that and update the BIOS 3. I can't really answer this. I have a RM1000x and I have no issues with a 13900K+3080ti. But with the 4090... i am not sure. I will say I have seen a lot of 13900K/4090 builds online use 1000W PSU's so I suspect it is fine. I'd research it a bit more before committing though
  2. Connect the mobo (with nothing installed on it) to the 24 pin and 8 pin connectors, plug a USB stick with the BIOS file into the labeled USB port on the back of the board, and then press the flash / flashback button to install it There will be more detailed instructions in your manual... (might have to rename the file, etc) but if you get a board with that feature it can be done without a CPU installed. Source: I just did this yesterday on the MSI Z690 Force motherboard with a 13900k lol. It's not a difficult process, but be sure to pay close attention because if the board powers off during install you can brick your board
  3. To my knowledge, its just some extra PCI-E lanes on Z790 basically. Don't think theres a difference in gaming performance between the 2 edit: forgot that Z790 can do higher DDR5 OC speeds too Just a heads up though -- Z690 boards need a BIOS update before you can use 13th gen processors with them. I didn't realize this before I bought a 13900K and a Z690 board, but fortunately my board had a bios flash feature. So I would get a board that has a bios flash feature, unless you want to gamble on the correct bios version being installed already
  4. Thanks, I did try that as well. It’s not exactly what I was looking to do, but I don’t think what I am looking to do is possible right now. So this may be the most convenient solution for now
  5. Thanks, unfortunately while this does work the only option is to add a cascaded submenu which.... ends up being the same amount of clicks as just using the 'Show more options' button. I did find a way to delete the default Windows 'Extract all' option from the context menu so thats some progress I guess Oh well... again this is just a small annoyance that I can live with. Was just hoping I could add a registry string somewhere to get 'Extract here' on the main context menu. Maybe down the road with a 7zip or windows update Thanks again
  6. So this is a slightly silly thing... been liking Windows 11 so far, I just have 1 small annoyance and it's that 7zips only context menu option when I right click is 'Extract All' and I would prefer to have it be 'Extract Here'. I can click 'Show more options' to get back to the 'classic' right click menu and then click 'Extract here', but I'd much rather have it on the new context menu instead for ease. I tried playing around with 7zips options, but that only changes the context menu option within the classic context menu. I know you can edit the registry to get rid of the new context menu altogether, but honestly I kind of like it except for this 7zip thing lol. Any idea if there is a registry edit i can do, or an app I can download to help me change the new windows 11 right click context menu? I tried googling but only found results for removing Windows 11's new menu, or editing the old menu. But none for editing the new one Thanks in advance!
  7. I dont have much help to offer lol... but did you fresh install or upgrade? FWIW I did a fresh install a week ago, and Ghub is working perfect so far. Recognizes my mic, mouse, and powerplay mat. If you upgraded maybe that fucked something up?
  8. Did you check the settings on the Gamedac itself? Im not sure if you have the Pro Wired or Wireless, but there should be mic volume settings on both the wireless and wired gamedacs
  9. The entire game got dragged so hard because of the base PS4 and Xbox versions. Sure it still would have been criticized even if it was next gen only... too many bugs / missing features etc... but people acted like it was the worst game ever created. Meanwhile I played for like 75 hours at launch and had a blast lol. The gaming community is terrible at nuance though, either something is sent from god himself or the worst thing theyve ever seen. Impossible that Cyberpunk falls somewhere in the middle... lol
  10. If you just need a wireless headset that works with PC + PS4, that is most wireless headsets out there right now. Just dont get anything Xbox branded (with the exception of the Arctis 7x which works with everything, just not simultaneously so you have to swap the dongle to each device as needed) and as long as it says PS4/PS5 you're good (Arctis 1, 3, 5, 7/7P, 9, Arctis Pro wireless all work. Logitech Pro / Pro X, most of their others should work, Corsair headsets should all work, etc) Now if you want something that will let you use the headset with the PS4/TV and PC simultaneously there are only a few wireless options. Option 1 is the Arctis Pro Wireless, and option 2 is the Astro A50s. Both come with a wireless base station that has USB, Line in, and optical in. The Arctis also has bluetooth (in addition to wireless). If your TV has an optical out, you can get PS4/TV audio via optical out and then plug into the PC via USB. Switch to the PS4 input and you will now have both audio sources at the same time, and the ability to mix their volumes independently with the chatmix dial. The only downside to this is that the microphone will only work wherever the USB is plugged into (PC in this example), so if you wanna chat on PS4 you'll have to plug in via USB to the PS4. If your TV doesnt have optical out, you may be able to go line out from the TV to line in to the base station. If that doesn't work, then you will have to go optical out from the PS4, but you won't have TV audio specifically and you still wont have a mic on PS4 Hope this helps, wasn't sure exactly what you were looking for so i tried to cover all options. Full disclosure, I recently when through this rabbit hole of trying to get 1 device to work with everything... I tried the Arctis Pro, and both units I tried had very noticeable static coming from the headset when nothing was playing so i returned them. I didn't try the Astros, I ended up settling on a wired solution.... My consoles go into my LG C1 HDMI, then I do optical out of the TV to a Steelseries Gamedac, then gamedac goes USB into my PC. I plug headphones into the gamedac, and have a desk mic (blue yeti) that I use to chat on the PC. This way I can listen to both my TV (any console I am currently using) and my PC (discord / music) at the same time, and change their volumes independently with the gamedac. I just cant chat on console, only on PC
  11. So my previous PC was built in 2012 when ivy bridge released. 3770k, z77 Asus TUF Mobo, 16gb Gskill sniper RAM, Radeon 7870. Corsair H100i and Corsair 750D. I upgraded the GPU twice since then... Once to a 780 and again to my current card... a 980ti Classified. Here is that build: But after 7 years my system was starting to show it's age, so I decided to upgrade a few parts.... Which turned into upgrading everything but my GPU lol. For the new build, I wanted to get another set of parts that could last me as long as my last build did. I settled on this: i7-9700k CPU Asus Prime z370-a mobo Samsung 500Gb 970 EVO NVME 16gb Corsair Vengeance Pro PC3200 Corsair H150i 360mm AIO Corsair 500D RGB SE Case Corsair RM650x PSU I am keeping my 980ti... I will upgrade eventually, but it's working for me now in most games at 1440p. I also bought some Corsair LED strips but they don't come until next week. Here is the build with everything but the cooler installed: I decided to try vertically mounting the GPU -- I know temps are affected by the card being so close to the glass... So if it ends up being a big problem I can always mount the card horizontally again. I'm still testing it out. Here is the back of the case/cable management: I really like the cable cover with thumbscrews on the back of this case... I was able to hide most of the cables behind it, even the 24-pin. There are a couple of loose cables, mainly due to them being too short to route more cleanly. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it looks though. The next day I received the cooler and installed it. Posted on the first attempt, which I was happy about. Here is the (mostly) finished build: I really love the way this case/fans look... I have some LED strips coming but I don't want to put too much light into the case. I'm going to try and diffuse them a lot to get a very subtle glow, especially in the bottom of the case. I may also get 2x 140mm fans for the top of the case depending on temps/airflow but that is TBD. Here is my full setup right now: I am probably going to change up my desk at some point to something a little bit sturdier bit this works for me for now. I overclocked my CPU to 5ghz at 1.28v, haven't run a long stress test on it yet but it was stable after 45 mins of P95 and my temps were high 60s low 70s. That was with a custom fan curve and the system was moderately quiet which I wad happy about. Will continue to test this/dial in these settings though. So anyways... thoughts on my new build? Anything you'd add or change? I'd love to get some feedback on this. I already plan to upgrade the GPU (probably the next set of Nvidia cards) and I already know vertical mounting increases temps Thanks for reading!
  12. Looks nice! This is a nitpick but the LED strip at the bottom of your motherboard bothers me lol... Too bright and you can see the connector at the end of it not plugged into anything. I'd personally find a cleaner way to route that. 550w for the PSU is a little low, especially if you end up doing any overclocking. But it's not an immediate issue, just one to keep in mind. Looks good though, great job on your first build!
  13. Really makes me laugh that people think the resolution is too low or the screen is too small. The 3ds is 240p with tiny screens and it has sold amazingly well. This will let you play console Zelda on the go, people will buy it
  14. they sent out an e-mail to all Twitch Turbo subscribers saying that the html5 closed beta is live and how to turn it on source: my e-mail
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