Noyu

this forum is so dumb
 
you people: Miners are killing the gaming and GPU market, everything is so expensive, they should prevent miners from buying (so many) cards
 
this thread: Bullshit, this is all a PR stunt, fuck you NVidia

DAMN STRAIGHT

nah it's fine. I don't usually overclock CPU and RAM.
 
thanks!

ah yeah that I do know. I actually started the build plan with a ML09 + 1050Ti LP. Just so we have that GPU upgrade path LATER on.
But that's praying NVIDIA/AMD releases another LP card later.
 
Anyways I've decided this is a one-time deal anyways, so no more upgrade plans. Maybe just adding/swapping SSDs/HDDs.
 
EDIT: she may also borrow my rig if she wants to play AAA games. but she has to buy me the game herself hahahaha

So I've been planning a build for my niece for quite a while now and I've heard the Ryzen APUs are coming out this Feb.
 
A Ryzen APU will fit very nicely to our use-case so here's a mockup of the build:
 
APU: Ryzen 5 2400G - 170$ (this is assuming the price here in my country will be even close to the release price haha)
Cooler: whatever cooler it comes with haha (or if that won't fit, maybe a Cryorig C7 or a Noctua NH-L9a-AM4) - 0-40$
Motherboard: Gigabyte AB350N Gaming WiFi - 120$
RAM: 2x8GB DDR4 of whatever's the cheapest - 160$ (at current pricing, praying it'll get cheaper)
Case + PSU: InWin Chopin with 150W PSU - 80$
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB 2.5" SATA - 110$ (price is of the Intel 600P M.2 NVMe 256GB which I will buy for my own rig and give her the Samsung)
HDD: WD 2.5" 1TB - 0$ (will give her mine)
OS: Windows 8 - 0$ (I have a free key lying around)
 
So running total would be 680$.
I can probably shave it to around 600$ IF the Wraith cooler fits and if I REALLY LOOK for used 2x8GB DD4 kits.
This would've been a cheap build if it weren't for the 2x8GB DDR4's ridiculous pricing.
 
The build will serve as my niece's gaming PC (Roblox, Minecraft, oldschool emulators), the family's HTPC, and as a smol 1TB NAS.
 
1. yay or nay?
2. how much of a performance hit would I take if I opted for shitty ValueRAM / ValueSelect sticks ahaha?
 
P.S.
plan is to build this by March for her birthday

I'd like to play with csgo players who are also looking for a friend to play with and not bothered about experience levels. No trashtalking, screaming, etc. Just chill...
 
I'm silver II, very noob
 
I'm 19 (and not talkative..) Doesn't matter where you're from or how old you are but please, be a bit mature.. Just friends, no romantic feelings or whatsoever.
 
Steam Profile 
thanks ~
I lag most of the time tho due to slow wifi :[ I sometimes can only play at midnight..

Okay.

They're also pulling Spectre/Meltdown fixes all over the place due to them causing issues. Considering how many systems are affected by it and how relatively few attacks there have been utilising it, it's not necessarily worth updating to a fix right now as it may cause more noticeable issues. 
 
Besides, OP's motherboard hasn't had an update for Spectre/Meltdown, so it's irrelevant here for OP. 

Short answer: No.

goddamn this is beauty

no it doesnt
you brought it up
now I am interested
 

jizzes in pants a little

oh my bad I quoted the wrong guy. that was supposed to be for @Corsair Nick aaand meant as a joke.
 
I've read reviews of the HS50 and it seems they're really great especially considering how cheap they are.

OK NOW THAT'S AN ELI5. thanks man!
I won't be doing a reinstall just because of this.
I reformat/reinstall OS almost regularly just cause.
Especially when the current install's been through so much changes.
 
again, thanks!

If your hardware made made post Sandy Bridge Intel or is a very recent AM3 board or any AM4 board, then your system supports EFI. And BTW, your "BIOS" as many incorrectly call it, is your UEFI (if your motherboard supports it). So if you have an old Core 2 Duo system, that has the traditional "BIOS" and only supports Legacy installs. If you have, say, an AM4 system, your system has a UEFI, and supports both Legacy and EFI installs of whatever OS you choose.
 
EFI is a boot protocol, like Legacy, but is newer, supports volumes larger than 2TB for booting off of, is a little bit faster to boot unless secure boot is on (negligible at that point), and secure boot allows for a security check at startup. The clock within your OS also talks to your UEFI, so if you connect your PC to the internet at any point in time within an EFI-install of an OS, the clock on your motherboard will be exactly correct.
 
There's no reason to reinstall Windows over something so negligible to most people, but it's not a terrible idea to do it in the first place.
There's a speed test for you, if it matters to you.
 

You do not install Windows on motherboards. You install Windows on your storage device (HDD or SSD)
 
If your computer is manufacture 2007 and isn't running on an Intel Atom Silverthorne or Lincroft, your system is 64-bit compatible.
 
Before installing Windows 8 or 10, be sure the following is setup correctly in your UEFI:
CSM (Compatibility Support Module) is disabled SATA controller is set to AHCI mode (assuming you have an HDD or SSD on SATA connection and no RAID setup) UEFI mode is NOT set to Legacy mode (nothing should be set to legacy) Secure Boot enabled If you have something with "Windows 8" or "Windows 10" set it as enable. When you boot your Windows 10 disk, be sure to pick, from the boot device list: "UEFI : <Drive name>", and not just "<Drive name>".
 
(The above will not work as is under Windows 7 as is, as Windows 7 dates back some technologies mentioned and may not function)

oooooooooooh okay okay. weird how this is not specified anywhere on the multiple blogposts I've read ahaha
 
thanks again man!

well this changes things ahahaha
if I were in your shoes I'd probably go for the GPU upgrade first, then CPU later if bottlenecking is an issue.
 
this gives you at least some time to wait for the next-gen CPUs ahaha

Cryptocurrency mining.
 
Honestly, I hate it. It's a waste of the planet's resources and gives you pennies on the dollar when the price of the GPU, the cost of cooling your house, and the cost of your electricity is taken into account, not to mention losing a ton of money if you plan to resell the GPU. I refrain from helping people buy PSUs for mining systems based on moral premise and I especially hate it when people mine on non-renewable energy. Just a complete waste. It also drives out stock of GPUs for people who just want to play video games, like GTX/RX GPUs are for.

"A guide on mining with Nicehash?" I hear you say, bear with me here, since NiceHash is here to stay and since "it's so simple anyone can use", might as well make a guide explaining the do's and don't that some might overlook when using such softwares!
 
I assume no liability for anything that you do as a result of this guide.  Proceed at your own risk.
 
Before you start mining, keep in mind that not all GPUs are profitable depending on your location because electrical fees, there are a few profitability calculators out there, but here are a some that you can use to see if all this is even worth it for you. Don't forget to enter the correct amount you're paying for you electricity.
 
NiceHash profitability calculator (quick and dirty, might not be 100% accurate but is good for estimations)
 
What to mine (more complex than above, give you more options to tweak and is more accurate)
 
Cryptocompare calculator (you will need to know your GPU hash rate with specific algorithms, different from the 2 above where you can simply select your GPU)
 
 
---------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
Now that's out of the way, first things first, things you will need to start mining ;
 
An external Bitcoin wallet, The NiceHash miner, A computer with a compatible GPU, Some time to set it all up!  
1. Bitcoin Wallet
 
The wallet is VERY important, this is where your payments are going to be sent. NiceHash pays in Bitcoins, BUT you are NOT mining (creating) Bitcoins.
 
For those that might be new to this, NiceHash was hacked, and that resulted in the totality of their Bitcoins (and their client's) to be stolen (over 4700 BTC). And this is where people lost money, the internal NiceHash wallet isn't a real Bitcoin wallet, it's a wallet that is outside of the blockchain. The blockchain is basically a big public ledger, so if the transaction isn't on the ledger, it means that for all intent and purposes, the transaction never took place.
 
What I will advise, is to use your own wallet instead of the NiceHash internal wallet, but be warned that as of January of 2018, the volume of BTC transactions being too high and also, the transfer fees being high, NiceHash is sometimes withholding the external wallet payments (the weekly 0.01 BTC payments), meaning you might not get paid if the volume and fess are too high, NiceHash will skip a payment window in hope the next time the fees and volume might be lower. From NiceHash website ;
 
Ok, but now what?
 
Use an external wallet, and for best security, use an offline paper wallets. As a rule of thumb, if the wallet isn't on the blockchain, don't use it. Some prefer online wallets, some prefer offline wallets. it's really up to your personal preference but using an internal wallet (like the NiceHash wallet) is what lead to so many people loosing money when NiceHash was hacked.
 
Here is a list of wallets in no particular order, do with it as you want (for disclosure purposes, the ones marked with an asterisk are the ones I'm personally using) ;
BitAddress.org (PAPER WALLET)*
Coinomi (MOBILE WALLET)*
Copay (MOBILE WALLET)*
Breadwallet (MOBILE WALLET)
Mycelium (MOBILE WALLET)
GreenAddress (MOBILE WALLET)
Armory (DESKTOP WALLET)*
 
There are a lot more than this, some might have better suggestions in the Folding@home, Boinc, and Coin Mining section. A Google search on the type of wallet you're looking for will most certainly give you even more results, make sure to look into the wallet you're going to use.
 
 
2. The NiceHash miner
 
FYI, before anything, be aware that mining softwares are often flagged as malware by anti-virus softwares and the likes, so after the installation but before using NiceHash, make sure to white list the folder it's in.
 
 
Now, onto the software, since NiceHash came back, they modified the mining software, so if you have an nVidia card, you'll have to use the following version ;
NiceHash miner v2.0.1.5
NiceHash miner is available on GitHub ;
https://github.com/nicehash/NiceHashMiner
 
 
AMD owners will have to use the legacy version since NiceHash turned off AMD support in the latest version ;
NiceHash Legacy version (I would recommend the 1.8.1.5 version)
 
 
Old information about the V2 miner.
 
The NiceHash miner will need different Visual C++ Redistributable Packages, here's the GitHub page on it ;
https://github.com/nicehash/NiceHashMiner/blob/master/doc/Troubleshooting.md#msvcp
 
Direct links in case the GitHub page becomes unavailable ;
2013 Redist. ; https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/download/details.aspx?id=40784
2015 Resist ; https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/download/details.aspx?id=48145
2017 Redist ; https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=746572
 
 
Agree to the licence and then you should be met with the miner interface (ignore the 0 devices, that screenshot was taken from my laptop) ;

 
 
 
 
Now, click on the HARWARE DETAILS button, now from this window, you can either click on the BENCHMARK ALL button or open the drop down menu (by clicking the arrow) and change the selected algorithm that you want to benchmark and use, but before using a selected algorithm, it has to be benchmarked, so I would simply click on the benchmark all when it's the first time (here's the instructions for manual benchmarking ; https://github.com/nicehash/NiceHashMiner/blob/master/doc/Advanced/ManualBenchmarking.md)
 
This is also where you can enable or disable "devices", like multiple GPUs or if you also want to use your CPU.

 
Benchmarking should look like this ;

 
 
Now, you can rename your worker (the mining PC) by clicking the worker button, by default it should be worker1.
 
Then, the important part is to write your bitcoin wallet so that you can get paid, click on the wallet button and paste/write down your wallet address, it should look similar to this;

 
 
 
 
When it's all done (benchmarks and writing your wallet address), you can now start mining!

 
 
 
 
NiceHash Legacy miner
 
The legacy miner has a different UI, but works the same way, you have to benchmark first, you can select/deselect devices and algorithms, you can rename your "worker" and you'll have to write you wallet address in the appropriate location.
 
When opening it for the first time, you'll have to agree with the licence, then it will verify your hardware and download the miners, this can take a few minutes to complete.

 
When done, you'll be in the main window of the legacy miner, as you can see, the wallet address and the miner's name is there and not in another window, so first, add you wallet address;

 
 
 
For the benchmarking, it's similar, you simply click on the device checkbox to enable it and you can benchmark all or simply select the algorithms you want to use and benchmark ;

 
 
Same here, when you're done benchmarking and have entered your bitcoin wallet address, simply click on the strart button to start mining

 
 
 
 
 
 
3. Advanced setup
 
 
Now, let's say you want to have a mining rig that you manage remotely and you want it to boot on it's own if there was a blackout, to mine automatically when it starts and to keep going if the network is down (it won't mine but it's going to keep the mining window open and wait for the network to come back on).
 
Well, here are a few tricks that should help you with that;
Set your BIOS/UEFI to start on power loss Set your Windows user to login automatically Set your remote software to start on Windows start Set NiceHash to start on Windows start  
This section won't have screenshots, I'll only list a set of instructions that should be easy to follow.
 
 
Set your BIOS/UEFI to start on power loss -Restart you PC and go into the BIOS/UEFI
-Somewhere in the "Advaced" settings, or in the "Power" settings, look for an option called something like "Restore on AC / Power loss" and set that to "ON" or "Enable"
 
 
Set your Windows user to login automatically This should work with Windows 7, 8, 8.1 and 10;
-Open the RUN window by holding the Windows key and pressing the R key
-In the RUN dialog, type netplwiz
-In the User Accounts dialog box, click the account you want to automatically log on to. Clear the Users Must Enter A User Name And Password To Use This Computer check box.
-Click OK. 
-In the Automatically Log On dialog box, enter the user’s password twice and click OK. 
 
Now every time Windows will start, you will be logged in automatically.
 
 
Set your remote software to start on Windows start In the options of your software, there should be an option so that is start when Windows start, for exemple, in TeamViewer, it's in the options under General and is called Start TeamViewer with Windows
 
Alternatively, if you can't find the option for the remote software you're using, you could Google it or simply add a shortcut to the Windows startup folder, anything put into that folder will be opened/executed at Windows startup.
 
 
 
Set NiceHash to start on Windows start In the legacy miner, click on the Settings button, now in the settings window, enable "Autostart mining" (at the top) and "Run with Windows" (almost at the bottom).
 
 
 
I might add more information later, the information contained here is subject to change due to it's nature (software updates and such).

the best way to deal inexpensively with g-sync monitor is to get a freesync one and an amd gpu.

oh yea my bad. even without overclocking this should work at 75Hz.
 
for some reason I remembered my problem about not getting 75Hz using single link DVI and mixed that up with FreeSync over HDMI.

I would take a look at either the Logitech G533, SteelSeries Siberia 800, Corsair VOID Pro, or just go with Steelseries Arctic 7. It's pretty hard for me to recommend wireless headphones after being spoiled by my Bose SoundLink II's sound quality. You just can't get great quality sound from wireless right now, especially when bundled with a mic.

assuming that you bought and setup the WiFi router yourself it's possible that it's just crapping out especially if all the devices are currently (somehow) using the network.
 
some ISP-provided routers may employ some sort of device limit but this is very rare.

Not quite. 61320 hours is 7 years.
 
One Earth year = 8760 hours (365 * 24)
 
8760 * 7 = 61320
 
If the premise is that 1 MP hour = 7 Earth years, we can do some basic math to go further.
 
1 hour = 60 minutes
 
7 Earth years = 60 MP minutes
 
61320 Earth Hours = 60 MP minutes
 
Now let's see if we can break it down further. Let's get one MP minute. We divide 60/60 = 1 MP minute
 
Now we take:
61320 / 60 = 1022 hours
 
That means 1 MP minute = 1022 Earth Hours
 
Now we can do that one further time to get seconds
1 minute = 60 seconds
 
1022 Earth Hours = 60 MP seconds
 
So the final result, assuming my math is correct, is as follows:
1022 Earth Hours / 60 = 17.03 Earth Hours.
 
That means in one second, on the Miller Planet, 17 Earth hours will pass.
 
You had the right idea, but you didn't convert units correctly to keep everything in line. Your mistake was 61320h / 60 = 1022m, when it would be 1022h.
 
You can reverse calculate that by following here:
1 second * 60 = 60 seconds (1m)
60 seconds (1m) * 60 = 3600 seconds (1h)
 
3600 seconds * 17 = 61200 (120 off due to rounding errors in my math: the assumption that it is 17, instead of 17.0333 repeating).
 
Doing the math further actually shows that @Noyu did indeed have the correct answer, since 17.03333 hours, is roughly equal to 61320 seconds.
 
So you're both right, though the OP's math was incorrect, due to not converting units as necessary.