Egad

The baked in AIO is really nice. Many other small form factors have the issue that you're forced to use a lower profile cooler (ex: NH-L9i) for clearance which in term limits your CPU options. But I'm not seeing this as something to recommend to new builders. Linus calls out RAM clearance and a preference for avoiding rear SSD mount, but there is also the issue of GPU thickness and length. The nice thing with your bog standard ATX build is that about the only really potential trouble is an air cooler overhanging your RAM slots. I'd feel much more comfortable pointing a first time builder in that direction. Plus in general these smaller builds can end up costing a bit more. They're the ones you really just want one nVME SSD that holds everything, vs a tier storage system where you have nVME SSD, a SATA SSD, and a mech drive. I see these as more making sense for when have a NAS or such in the house and just want a media PC. NZXT's own solution for more storage with their prebuilt H1 is to let you bundle in an external WD external drive, can't even add in a mech drive. For a first time builder where this is going to the only computer in the home, the fact you can always open up an ATX build and slap a bit more spinning rust in there (at least until you hit data horder stage and accept you need to build a NAS) is nice.

Considering you already dumped the R22 once, that's probably a pretty killer feature for your team.

I think the big note to hit on is the portability. Specifically you can boot off a memory key or that in general Linux is very dual boot friendly (if you want Windows and Linux on the same box). I run a Linux Thinkpad at work for developer. My old gaming rig at home is Linux, serving as my NAS, my Plex box, and the gaming box plugged into my TV. I've been forcing myself to stay booted into Linux on my personal laptop, a MSI GS65 Stealth Thin, but that's a struggle. My big take away is that Linux is totally worth as having as a boot option. As Linus mentioned with Windows forcing you to set a 6 hour, I think, inactive period that it can reboot during is a giant pain to have it as a server. I used to run Plex on Windows and if I stayed up late for a marathon on Battlestar or something I'd have to deal with a reboot. It's also a great secondary desktop option since if you can't get a game working under Proton you can just Steam in home stream it off your primary Windows based gaming rig. That being said the stability is only 100% guaranteed if you're staying in community norms. For example my Thinkpad on Linux is insanely stable. No complaints. Conversely my personal GS65 has a weird issue where sometimes it boots without detecting any wireless or bluetooth (a reboot fixes this). Sometimes it won't boot at all, citing an error with the wireless card. This can be fixed by booting into recovery, where the wireless card is properly detected 100% of the time, connecting to wire, and waiting 10 seconds. Then reboot and it works great since that little venture into the recovery reset whatever was pissed off. This continues to occur even after I swapped my standard Intel wifi card that the GS65 came with for the same card the Thinkpads at work have. I just shrug my shoulders, but it's a biweekly occurrence and no amount of Googling has given me a good angle on it. The Thinkpad is likely much more stable in that the Thinkpad line is the #1 choice of Linux developers, with a Dell being #2. The MSI GS65 Stealth Thin was a niche laptop to begin with and I can only imagine how fewer people bought one and then tried to toss Linux on it. The same for server configurations and other use cases. The aspects of Linux used by the core development team or funded by people who want Linux for their server clusters is rock solid. It's still the wild west as you move off those nodes and Valve still has lots of unclaimed land to tame for gaming especially. That being said, I think Linux is worth it when you're looking for a OS for your secondary rig. Or even if your primary rig, if next time you're building and you're going to all nVME storage, seriously consider tossing your old SATA drive in the bottom of the case and having PopOS on it. Try to boot it it and play around with it. But at the same time don't force yourself to stay booted into it if you can't launch stuff or the emulation overhead off Proton is too much. There is nothing wrong with going "Forget it" and rebooting to Windows.

I do rear exhaust. Top mount also works. The primary benefit of the hybrid cards is the ability to dump the heat outside the case. Given you have a 280mm AIO for the I'd go rear, because I assume your top AIO is also exhaust, so that's three fans all exhausting in the top rear of the case. At that point your only concern is dust if the case the case ends up negative pressure, depending on the air those three fans move vs whatever you have on intake duty. For exhaust the only concern is that you're not pumping the hot air off your CPU tower cooler through the radiator, and since that's all going out the AIO, the only heat you're getting is off the VRMs. Front mount isn't terrible unless you have a really small case with poor airflow. In most setups even if you have the radiator on intake, it's not going to heat up the case any significant amount. The only time I'd really get worked up over the hybrid on intake would be a super compact case where you have to go with a low profile like a NH-L9a or such and then mount the radiator literally right next to it, so you're blowing your GPU's hot air right onto a CPU cooler that is already fighting for its life. When I had two 980Ti hybrids in SLI in a midtower, all the gain was purely in moving the heat away from the immediate vicinity of the cards. Both rads exhausting out the top or intake on the front showed no difference.

I'd lean toward 280mm. You can estimate about 9% less surface area on the 280mm than the 360mm assuming all else equal, but you can get fatter 280s. A fatter 280mm with good fin density has one less moving part, fits in more cases (unless you have one of the rare cases that just doesn't do 140mm fans period), and it's generally easier to work with. Also consider the general rule that the bigger the fan the better the performance at the same RPM. So a pair of 140mm static pressure fans generally gives better results than three 120mm static pressure fans when tuning for noise.

I honestly wouldn't buy any extra fans from a need perspective. Your PSU is segregated in that case and you're only running a 2600X and 590. If you start to see the 590 throttle even with its fan curve up, you can at that time decide to buy a front fan to blow onto it. Right off the bat, if you want them for looks sure. From the perspective of performance and acoustics though, honestly buying cheap fans now doesn't seem to offer much. In a scenario where even with max fan curves on the 590 and the rear exhaust fan (or you can pop the top vent on the case, move the fan to be intake on the front and try a push config with two unobstructed rear vents) leads to thermal throttles and stuttering on the 590 you can get a cheap fan for intake. For scenarios where the max fan curves yield good performance but unpleasant noise levels, honestly the best long term solution is to deal with the noise until you can afford to get some good fans that move lots of air at low RPMs, bunch of cheaper fans at medium speeds probably still means noise. Also unless you're in a metered internet setup or just have really poor speeds so you can't afford to be redownloading games, I'd agree with @dizmo and go for one higher capacity SSD. Especially given expected NAND price spikes in 2020. Assuming you're not in an internet limited situation, go for a setup with just a 1 TB SSD now and in the future you can consider getting a lower RPM mech drive to move music, photos, video etc on to once your SSD fills up.

I think the Wraith Spire that comes in the box with that R5 2600X looks like a better cooler than the older flower design Aerocool. That Aerocool isn't going to net you any performance and may actually hurt you. If you drop the CPU Cooler and those Case Fans (I'm assuming you're buying the Thermaltake case new so it comes with some fans), what does that do with regard to letting you either put more money into the CPU or more capacity on the SSD? Both of those are quality of life improvements you'll see more value out and frankly if you're unhappy with the noise of the Thermaltake fans, you can always swap them out in six months. Also what's up with your RAM exactly. 16 GB of Kingston HyperX Fury is plenty, you don't need to go buy additional Apacer RAM.

At least it follows the same purchasing logic as the AIO Corsair cooling products. If the sale price of the unit + cost of buying better fans < competitors, buy it.

Can you fix permissions on the folder and get it into a state Windows will actually realize it is empty/show you stuff inside to delete? https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/17590/automatically-diagnose-and-repair-windows-file-and-folder-problems I'd probably go the round of trying permission repairs, disk checks, and then seeing if you can delete it. Alternatively maybe booting into Safe Mode would let you kill it. Windows powershell might also be a solution.

Use os.rename or shutil.move to actually move the file. Those commands will handle white space escaping for you. You might also find filename, file_extension = os.path.splitext a useful command. Because splitting on period is going to fail on "my.file.has.periods.docx"

I assume the only reason we don't see Yvonne call an insurance agent to up her policy on Linus midway through the video, is that she's been married to him long enough to have gone up to max coverage years ago.

I think the workstation aspect is a bit of a tough sell. Doing machine learning, right now I'm pretty much buying new GPUs the minute they drop, since time is money. Looking at the config, it looks like I'd have to touch both loops to swap all four slots on the big system (since access is blocked by the mITX's card). Since the case pushes you toward water, as their air cooled temps show, you have big savings by grabbing pretty much any full tower, slapping your machine learning cards in it, and going from there. Plus you can go exile your work system to some dark corner and just remote the thing as needed, this sucker's foot print is massive. It's more just a statement piece you have in your lobby or whatever. Probably see it at trade shows and such to flaunt water cooling products. I can kind of see it in my basement, but even that's a stretch. Move my home Plex server into it and fill up all the board slots with GPUs that have been retired out of various gaming rigs for GPU accelerated Plex action. Then do a little gaming rig to hook up to the TV in the basement. But that's a lot of money just to slap four retired cards into my Plex rig and I'm not sure if I could even find water blocks for them ("Hey honey I spend 499 + (price of the rads, blocks, and 13 good static pressure fans) to put a HD 7970 and a couple other 3 to 4 year old GPUs under water"). Probably the most reasonable thing is main rig in the main slot and then something on par with a NUC in the secondary slot for use as a pfSense router, NAS, and such, with the secondary system being on air.

I'm just sad because LTT missed a great chance for a mini scrap wars. Linus and Luke each get some cash and don't need to hide who they are. However you have to source everything in the parking lot as people load their cars up after the auction.

Here you go https://www.treasury.gov/resource-center/data-chart-center/interest-rates/Pages/TextView.aspx?data=yieldYear&year=2014 You can pick a day in July and get the yield on a 3 year for that day, of course there are a bunch of ways this plays out for how you bought the bonds (you have been doing shorter term ones, buying and selling bonds, etc)

Last time I bought it was the WD - easystore 8 TB external for 159, my old box shows WDBCKA0080HBK-NESN for model number. I tend to want the 8 TB ones for my overkill RAID 10 data hoarding NAS, but yeah the 4 TB are often better deals. I'm hoping things like Toshiba talking 14 TB PMRs in 2018 helps push the price further down.

Best Buy, at least in America, will often do deals on Western Digital 8 TB external drives. If you shuck the drive out of the enclosure you end up with a WD Red. I've been slowly filling up my NAS that way. Definitely going to check Best Buy on Black Friday/Cyber Monday.

I know people talk about different time frames for MX-4 to degrade, be it weeks, months, etc but I've repasted five GPUs with MX-4 and never personally seen that behavior. I have an 18 month old repaste job on a Titan Black in my Plex server that gets hit for GPU assisted transcodes daily and it's still showing the same temp improvements from when I pasted it, so I expect similar behavior out of the 980Tis, we'll see though (and it got worked under continuous load for two weeks while I transcoded most of my library). I mean I did the 980Tis five days ago already and I've seen no temp change under load in games, never breaking 79 and in the 60s for less demanding titles. End of the day I could carefully apply some liquid metal or grab a tube of Gelid for ~2.5x what I paid for the MX-4 or frankly if the MX-4 degrades after X months in it's about a dozen screws and five minutes of work to reapply during a regular dusting of the rig internals.

I wanted to share my results with doing some rig maintenance in hopes that it may be of values to others now or in some nebulous future when some is searching around. When I first built my rig I was admittedly pretty lazy, just used the various stock fans, manufacturer paste applications, etc. Setup was: Case: Noctis 450 Front Intake Fans: 3x120mm of whatever NZXT fans came with case Rear Exhaust: 1x140mm whatever NZXT fan came with the case CPU Cooler/Top Exhaust: H110i GTX (280mm AIO) with stock Corsair static pressure fans/pre applied Corsair paste cooling a 5960X OCed to Core: 4.5 GHz (1.282 volts), Cache: 4.25 GHz (1.24 volts) GPUs: 2x EVGA 980Ti with ACX 2.0 coolers running at EVGA provided speeds Long story short nothing thermal throttled, although in games that did thread the Corsair fans started to sound like my computer was taxiing for takeoff. Since I wear over the ear headphones will gaming though, meh. However as time when on I found more of an urge to OC the 980Tis beyond what EVGA had done and I found once I had them up to 1511 MHz on the Core and 3954 MHz on the memory, I'd hit 85 C much faster than I wanted to do. Since I kind of had the urge to tinker I decided to get new fans and repaste everything, but to do so incrementally and do a bit of measurement. I used GTA V for everything because it and Witcher 3 are the most demanding games I play and Witcher 3 did ship with a benchmark. My third most demanding game would be Borderlands 2 and yeah I was doing just find there before the overclocking. A note I built the computer in August of 2016 so the paste was ~26 months old. One other item of note: When running GTA V I'd have EVGA Precision, Intel XTU, CPU-Z and Task Manager open on the second monitor. Prior to the memory OC of the'd see 8.4 to 8.6 GB of system RAM be used, varied from bench to bench). After the OC, with the same drivers, I'd see 12.4 to 12.7 GB of RAM used during the bench. Given nothing else on the system had changed I found that interesting, perhaps the faster GPU was keeping the system cpu/memory controller busier so it didn't have as much time to garbage collect. Round 0 Ambient Temp: 20C 5960X Stable Temp running Intel XTU Stress Test and Furmark running (100% load on all 16 logical processors): 88C 980Ti results: Rapidly throttle down to 1488 MHz and hit 85 C midway through the fighter flight part of the GTA V benchmark Subjective Notes: Furmark + XTU Stress was load, even through over the ear good quality headphones, you could really feel the warm air coming out of the top of the case Round 1, Replacing Thermal Paste I repasted both of the 980Tis and the CPU with Arctic Silver MX-4. Ambient Temp: 20C 5960X Stable Temp with XTU Stress Test and Furmark: 84C 980Ti results: Never went above 78C, GUP clock stayed above 1500 MHz Subjective Notes: Still pretty loud, while I probably could have messed with the GPU fan curves a bit, the Corsair fans are the main noise culprit and thus it's not really worth it Practical Notes: 980Ti SLI means GTA V at 4K ultra settings posts a min fps of 58.3 for the benchmark and an average FPS of 78 Or in summary, I paid 5.99 for the MX-4, plus the cost of some rubbing alcohol and wipes to drop 7C off my GPU temps. I'm glad I did this over spending on some kind of conversion kit to let me mount AIOs onto my GPUs. Round 2, New Fans Front Fans: 3x120 Notcua NF-S12 PWM (120mm airflow fans) Rear Exhaust: 1x Noctau NF-A14 PWM Chromax (140 static pressure) Top Exhaust/AOI: 1x NF-A14 Industrial, 1x NF A-14 Chromax (140 static pressure) Note: Two different A-14s ordered, to get some brown anti vibration pads Ambient Temp: 23.33C (my wife came home and demanded to know why the thermostat was set so low) 5960X Stable Temp with XTU Stress Test and Furmark: 85C 980Ti results: Never went above 78C, GPU clock stayed above 1500 MHz, over repeated runs I was able to get stable at 1522 MHz GPU clock at 78C Subjective Notes: Much quieter at load. Significantly more air seems to exhaust out the back, whereas originally it was pretty hot air coming out the top and more or less room temp air coming out the back, now I feel warm air coming out the rear exhaust and roughly the same temp air coming out the top. No noticeable temp difference. Practical Notes: Considering the ambient temp bump up, the new fans did contributed to temps, although their main contribution was with regard to noise. It seems the NZXT and Corsair fans were moving air, they just liked announcing to everyone on the first floor how hard they were working. The biggest wins are the removal of those Corsair fans and the fact my GPU fans aren't cycling as hard since the GPU fans are now the nosiest in the build. Bonus Round Round 2, but with only the middle front intake fan on (the one blowing on the GPUs) Ambient Temp: 23.33C 5960X Stable Temp with XTU Stress Test and Furmark: 85C 980Ti results: Never went above 79C, GUP clock stayed above 1500 MHz Notes: This more or less replicates Luke's work that one intake in the front is typically enough. I would note though though that my GPU fans were working harder when I watched the fan speed reports on Precision during the test and the noise increase was noticeable. Final Thoughts: Replace manufacture thermal paste, especially old stuff. I want to credit EVGA for having a decent application on both 980Tis (especially compared to some OEM jobs I've seen where it looks like a sex crazed maniac ejaculated thermal paste all over the card), so it was either quality or age that was playing the largest role in the temps. (Paste as applied by EVGA) The results on the fans are nice, but not worth tying up significant money in unless your case fans are much worse or much louder than mine. I'm happy with the result and scratched my itch to open up the case and tinker with my case. Although I probably could have gone with just one front 140mm fan. The third 120mm fan is pretty much a waste since it's so low down all it does is blow air over the ugly nest of cables in my case's basement. The midlevel fan pretty much aims directly at both GPUs and is doing the lions share of the work for cooling them. Hopefully this helps some other folks, now back to looking at full loop hard tube cooling and telling myself "No, you don't need that."

Frankly you're getting bad advice because you're asking bad questions. Upgrading sockets solely to move from DDR3 to DDR4 is not worth it to a gamer, you make that kind of move due your games demanding more from your CPU not your RAM. At the same time sinking more money into DDR3 RAM at this point in time, especially a totally new kit vs increasing existing capacity, is also not really worth it since the slow but steady shift toward DX12 won't do that 4c/4t i5 any favors. Hence right now you focus primarily on things you can carry to a new system. You need to focus on GPU and CPU and the games you want to play. Since you mentioned GTA V for example: SSD: Helps with pop in (doesn't help with load times that much since R* Social Club spends so much time phoning home it bottlenecks you more than disk I/O) 1060 upgrade: Definitely helps, GTA V at 1080p likes having 3+ GB of VRAM. Going from a 960 to this is probably the single biggest step you can make. CPU Upgrade: GTA V does thread pretty well and can use 6 core CPUs, making a R5 1600 or i5-8400 potential upgrades, depending on your finances and ability to handle the cost oif GPU, CPU, Mobo, and RAM at the same time. DDR3 speed increase: This will have some impact in that on a 4c/4t CPU, GTA V is going to be hitting your CPU hard. You will get an extremely poor return though in terms of dollar spent per extra frame and would be better server closing everything but GTA V and saving for a CPU upgrade. Rinse, wash, and repeat for other games. BF1 under DX12 threads heavily so roughly the same answers as above. Watch Dogs 2 also threads really well (note how in testing of Watch Dogs 2, even the i7-2700K can keep its 1% lows above 54 fps whereas i5s and i3s struggle. Ark is the outlier simply due to poor optimization and will just misuse whatever resources you throw at it. But the other titles and other new releases are showing that developers are steadily getting better at multithreaded DX12 work which pushes gamers toward higher thread (and core) count CPUs. Or in short, pull the trigger on the 1060 and SSD now. After running on them if you're unhappy with the result start considering if you want to go with a Ryzen or wait on Coffee Lake supply issues and go for one of them.

The point being, especially with the titles you linked to, it's not worth investing significant money in a Haswell i5 platform at this point. You can carry the SSD and GPU to a new rig, aside from some of those Skylake mobos that ran DDR3, your DDR3 is a short term investment. If you have 8 and 16, buy more DIMMs, don't do a total replacement. Or even better close some stuff before launching a game and save the money for AM4 or Z370.

On RAM, I'm a bit curious if you mean defective as in the DIMM simply doesn't work or defective in the sense it doesn't run when you load a desired XMP profile or try to manually OC. If it's the latter, unless you have really bad frequencies or are getting a sweet deal, investing in DDR3 seems like a poor use of money. A 1060 is fine, but ultimately you simply cannot force any kind of common load percentage onto your components, nor should you. Let the game lean on hardware as it desires. Some games are more CPU intensive with AI, pathfinding, etc. Most games are more GPU intensive and having those titles utilize the GPU at 95+% is fine/desirable. Settings should only be adjusted with regard to maintaining a desired framerate. A SSD can be useful with helping with popin in open world games, boot times, load times, etc but isn't going to impact the frame rate as directly.

This is more like a budget workstation build, where you have workloads that benefit from higher core count CPUs and/or run GPU accelerated tasks (which is where the SLI benchmarking sense, since for work purposes you can pull them out of SLI and run one task per GPU but game using SLI). The two things that are weird are 1070s and going Ryzen for a higher refresh rate monitor. The 1070 at MSRP is still a rare find thanks to miners and the 1070Ti has its review embargoes lift this week. I mean yeah I know you do these videos in advance, but you'd think at this stage in the game you'd hold off on GPU recommendations until we see what that does to the market. Right now the EVGA 1070 SC at 439.99 is not even stock on Amazon (at least when pulling up the US site, although it does look like Gigabyte has a SKU in stock). If you're laying the down the money for a higher refresh rate monitor, you should really be going to the blue team and chasing single core performance. Ryzen is also about getting the best bang for the buck on cores. End of the day if you're budget building, sinking 300 dollars into a TN panel on a rig that when the single card benches show you're not hitting it. Bunch of VA panel products where yeah lower refresh rate, but you both save money and get a better panel. Someone doing mostly competitive FPS is going to be drawn to the higher refresh rate, but that's a specific use case, for a general use case it doesn't seem like the greatest call. Plus just other random odds and ends like going with an AIO. For someone on a budget I'd say run on the Wraith for the initial build and once you start OCing and see yourself thermal throttling, spend money on an aftermarket cooler. People are reporting 3.7/3.8 range on problem on the included cooler. It's really easy to change that cooler out later and you could initially divert the money into another part and ask for a cooler for Christmas or whatever. End of the day even at the total build costs in the video, cut the aftermarket cooler and go from X370 to B350 and you're up about 100 bucks, which is roughly half the price difference between the EVGA 1070 (not in stock at that price) and an in stock EVGA 1080 FTW (and of course there are cheaper 1080 options and the 1070Ti which is forthcoming this week). Do some more trimming on the case, a semi or non modular PSU and you can creep even closer to fitting a 1080 in at this price point. Also while Vega 56 does push you to the higher wattage PSU and if you pay more for electricity it may not be worth it, the cost delta between a 1070 at 439 and a Vega 56 at 469 is basically the step down from X370 to B350 and then you get FreeSync on the selected TN panel at least (for whatever value that has for you).

Incorrect, most of them do decrypt, which is why the FBI agent recommended paying. Typically they come back on you a couple times, it goes from 500 dollars to 2000 dollars or something like that because the hackers know they have you, but they do decrypt. They need people on the forums talking about how they did eventually did get the data back. Otherwise no one would ever pay.

I like the righteous indignation in here on paying them. Ransomware makes its money going after the little folks who have a little local server and just enough revenue they can pay but not enough they can afford a full time IT department. Normally at most they have a part time guy on contract. A full time IT guy of decent standing is probably 30 to 50 thousand per year depending on what part of America you're in, plus benefits. Ransomware wants 500 to 5000 bucks typically. The business logic is pretty clear for many small businesses. Save on the IT guy for years, make a on time payment of at most 10 grand to get your data back, and then pay someone 150k to redo your office network. Assuming you only get hit by ransomware once ever 5 years, hey it's not that bad. It's quite disturbing logic from an IT professional standpoint, but honestly for many companies that aren't tech centric, it's probably not as stupid as it sounds. Frankly even with our disconnected backups if we somehow got hit, we might pay simply because you can only wipe and cycle them back in to service so cycle. If the local file server goes down we'd be looking at: Assume everything in the office is compromised and wipe all machines. Possibly replacing all drives in the process due to fear of the virus having carved out a little hidden partition that can survive reformats (which is a thing). That's a couple days even with techs, programmers, and everyone else with basic technical competency working on it. Send a tech to our offsite and disconnected back location to copy the data we need right away off the tapes and onto spinning disk. Also undergo efforts to ensure credit card info, social security numbers, etc were all properly encrypted and couldn't have been compromised. Point 3 is probably a big reason we'd pay. If they had our file server locked down, we'd pay to decrypt it just to see what exactly the hackers managed to get, then unplug it from everything and have a security expert scan it for anything we need to let our customers know about. Plus with points 1 and 2, for some of the rush jobs we'd probably have to print things off and manually reenter them into clean systems, because moving 400 TB of data from tape drives in Utah to the office California is going to take some time. Even just sending out a tech with a bunch of external disks in his trunk is a two day turn around.

So first just to double check, do you have DDR3 or DDR4 RAM? Secondly where did you buy the stuff and is all still shrink wrapped in its boxes? All is not lost perhaps, you want to return the CX series power supply and depending on budget and RAM you return some of your other components and get the build working. Also if your place has free returns and assuming you didn't buy a G-Sync monitor, might want to swap the GTX 970 for a R9 390.