TommyTwommy

Yeah I saw that too but it looks much bigger on the photo than it actually is. I can't get rid of it.. I tried unplugging and replugging, wiggling and everything, but that small gap (it's like third of a milimeter) will always be there.

gigabyte rtx 4080 gaming oc

No, it's stuck. Can't unplug it no matter how much I wiggle Oh well. I pushed it in again as much as I could. If something goes wrong definitely not my fault. This connector is trash

I won't lie. I've built plenty of PCs, connected and disconnected all kinds of connectors with an uncomfortable amount of force (both pushing and pulling), but this has to be the worst one yet. To add injury to insult, I know that there has been a whole scandal around it, and the fact that it's a $1500 GPU (where I live) doesn't help at all. Can someone confirm if this is plugged in all the way? It didn’t click or have any kind of feedback when I plugged it in. I really pushed hard, to the point where the whole motherboard was bending. These photos are best I can do within the space I have.

I just got a brand new keyboard. The k70 pro white version with optical switches. Keyboard looks and feels amazing but it has a major issue/defect. It constantly produces a high pitch noise. This noise is even louder when the RGB lights are on. I am in a very quiet environment and the only noise I can hear is that high pitch, feels like I have tinnitus. I RMAd the keyboard after a few hours because it was unbearable (even with the lights off), however I really really like the keyboard and I spend like weeks looking for a keyboard like it. Now I don't know which keyboard to buy. Should I order the same one and risk having the same issue or should I look elsewhere. Also if anyone has any other suggestions, here is what my keyboard MUST HAVE: - Mechanical (MUST BE) - PBT keycaps (preferable) - ONLY Full size (no TKL or smushed together keys) - Numpad (MUST HAVE) - Media keys (volume, mute, pause/play, next, previous) above the numpad (MUST HAVE) - Detachable USB C cable (MUST HAVE) or wireless - Wrist rest (optional) - Budget is not an issue It doesn't have to be RGB and I would prefer if it had a normal font (I don't like the gamer font). It doesn't have to be a "gaming" keyboard. I'm in EU so my options are limited. Please only keyboards from known brands like Corsair, Logitech, Razer, Asus, Steelseries, etc. I already tried less known and random chinese brands and wasn't too happy with those (sorry to all keyboard enthusiasts). And no I don't want to build my own keyboard. It has to be available on amazon.de anyways since I received the refund in amazon credits.

Yeah, that's terrible. Too bad, guess I'll go with the zotac card then. Don't wanna wait for Asus TUF to come in stock.

they might cool within margin of error, but I doubt they do it at the same noise level. I want a quiet card and TUF does exactly that. I have both of that and some gaming. But I do want the card to be quiet and cool. Only Gigabyte model in stock is the Gaming OC which I don't like and its $50 difference.

I'm in a bit of a dilemma and could use some advice. I've been a fan of the Asus TUF graphics cards for a while now. Unfortunately, the 4080 TUF model is currently out of stock everywhere and has been for weeks, with no indication of when it might be back in stock. My current TUF card has been nothing short of amazing – it looks fantastic, runs fast, stays cool, operates silently, and overall exudes high quality. The only other Asus card I can find in stock locally is the ProArt. It certainly looks appealing, but I'm in the dark about its performance. Can anyone share their experiences regarding how it compares to the TUF series, especially in terms of noise level, efficiency, and build quality? I should mention that RGB and gaming-specific features aren't important to me. I'm also not considering other AIBs since the only models available are the ones I find less appealing in terms of aesthetics and build quality, such as MSI's Ventus and Gigabyte's Gaming OC

I ran furmark at highest settings for 30 minutes on a new installation while overclocked and at highest power limit and it didn't crash, so I was like oh ok it was the windows installation. But I'm now also 20 minutes into the same stress test on my actual windows installation and it's not crashing either. I'm so confused. Usually it would crash within first 2 minutes of furmark everytime I'd run it.

I might have spare drive.. I could try that yeah, good idea

Yes, I returned the voltage settings to stock and tried running at both the stock clocks and underclocked. I didn't do a full reinstall yet, it's going to be the last thing I do. I hate doing reinstalls because I always forget to back something up or forget how I set something up in the first place so it takes me months to get it back to the state I want. I have a lot of small modifications and tools installed for Windows 10 (half of which I forgot the name for). Many settings from tons of apps, databases, etc. It all resets when you reinstall windows, so I really want to avoid doing it. Thing is I didn't change or install anything new when this started happening so I doubt a reinstall will fix this anyways. I'd rather try the card in a different system to confirm it's the card.

The 36 month warranty expired a little over a month ago All temps are fine. For all components and cores. Yes I was using MSI Afterburner.

It's 2 separate cables. Yes, I did have extension cables, but I removed them since. I can normally use my PC, but after playing a game for 1-30 minutes it will turn off. I mean it's an A tier power supply. It shouldn't be causing issues. I'm sure there's other better power supplies, but this one is more than decent

Revolt Pro 1000W. It's a very high quality power supply and more than enough power for an RTX 3080 Yes, this is the only thing left to try but I don't have another system at my place. I'd have to give it to a friend, but none of them have a PSU that's powerful enough to test it. I am currently trying to undervolt but for some reason my voltage curve is locked and I can't move it..

My video card turns off when playing games or while being stress tested. What I mean under that is that my PC keeps running, the fans are spinning, RGB lights are on, but both of my screens go black (no signal) Event log shows a warning "Display driver nvlddmkm stopped responding and has successfully recovered.", event id is 4101 (if that means anything) Things I've tried so far: undervolting, underclocking and lowering power limit reseating the GPU multiple times, using different cables, reinstalling drivers (multiple times using DDU) memtest, using only one stick of RAM in different slots, turning off all unimportant background programs and services (like GHUB, Discord, NZXT Cam, etc.), different PCIe slot, older drivers Is my GPU dying? It's an Asus RTX 3080 TUF, 3 years old. I never really used it that much. I cleaned it regularly and it is in a good ventilated case (temps never went above 65°C). It was also undervolted and running in "Quiet" mode since day one.

G502 all the way! If you're not some pro competitive FPS gamer no point in going for mice like the Model O

I'd say nvidia.. I got my rtx 3080 yesterday and thought i would regret my purchase once i saw the rx 6000 series performance.. luckily it is no where near as powerful as i though it would be.. i'd hold off on amd for one more year and get the much more matured and optimized platform.. if you can get the rtx 3080 for a normal price go for it.. if not the 6800 xt is still a good choice, just not as good as the rtx 3080 imo

Oh I don't think I can go any higher. I start getting artifacts when I go above +275 on the core clock, and on +300 it just crashes. However I managed to get the memory up to +600 now and it stills seems to be stable. However i'm not sure if I want to stress the memory too much, I've heard that the G6X already runs pretty hot

Thats crazy especially for a 1050

It boosts up to 2150 MHz

Every GPU I had in the past would crash if I OCed the Core by even as little as 50MHz, I just received my 3080 and started overclocking the hell out of it. I have the 3080 TUF OC Gaming card. I've managed to OC the core by 230MHz and the memory by 500MHz.. To me this is amazing. I've never been able to put in such high numbers.. Did I finally get a good overclockable card or are these results actually average? I didn't test it too much for stability. Just ran Furmark and played 20 minutes of GTA V (that would always crash my GPU when OC'ing) and CoD. The temperatures are great (<75°C) and the fans are almost inaudible compared to the rest of my system.

I am currently deciding on which monitor to buy for gaming. I bought all the parts I need for my next gaming build and I'm still waiting on the RTX 3080. I currently own a 60Hz IPS display and I definitely won't be taking full advantage of my setup with that I want a • 144Hz • 3440x1440 • Preferably VA • High contrast / brightness • Below $600 Other than high refresh gaming, I also want to watch movies thats why I said I want a VA panel with high contrast / brightness. I am currently considering one of these two: Gigabyte G34WQC, apparently has amazing contrast ratio which is great for movies, but not so great response times. Xiamo Mi 34, has a bit better response times, but not as great contrast or brightness I couldn't find any other monitors that fit my needs and I am trying to decide between these two. If you got any other suggestions please share them.

i just switched from a case with an acrylic panel to a case with TG.. it is a 100 times better and definitelly worth the money.. I went from a Define C to a P500A DRGB and i love it

I don't know if Linus and the team take ideas for videos, but I think I remember Linus saying in one of his videos that he got the idea from someone posting it on twitter or the forums.. anyways since I know LTT does a lot of silly but cool projects I saw this meme today and first thing I actually thought is "Linus could build something like this" Anyways it would be a computer inside a classic telephone housing.. Seems like an interesting project.

I'm looking to buy a new case in the $200 price range. The 2 that mentioned in the title are the ones I like and are available. I like the the more simplistic design of the Dark Base 700, but I was wondering if there is any good reason except for looks that I should go with the Evolv X, because I've heard it is one of the best cases out there. My other considerations were O11 from Lian Li and Meshify S2.