Shadow-R

pull the plug. It doesn't seem to be doing anything
 

Could be a permissions problem or something else.
3
Its a linux program that writes a set of data to the drive and then reads it to check if there is no errors.

is crystal disk info say the drive is good?
 
What error does steam give?
 
Try a run of badblocks

Terve!
Well, if you're that curious:
From left to right:
Mail Login, Leo.org, Digitec (PC online Store), yoututbe, "how to use SSH to connect to a remote server" and Magnet's Twitch.
Not a lot of exitement, but someting.
Sayonara!

Terve!
Please give us a little more info about your intention. If you want to build the ultimate silent PC, you might want to go totally overkill yes, but if you want to use a reasonable PSU it's better to know a little more - just in case.
Sayonara!

Terve!
For me the real question here is: does it matter?
I see the advantage of free- g-sync, but 10ms input lag, really?
I don't think anyone that is not a professional gamer does not notice 10ms or 30ms of difference.
The best example is: the wink of the eyelid is the fastest thing a human can do (according to some studied guy) and this takes about 300ms.
I'd like someone to tell me that he actually notices 30ms of difference.
Sayonara!

"PC gamers could keep their PCs for 7 years if they wanted your potato grade graphics." -Linus

Terve!
You'll need to tell us what 550W PSU.
Cannot tell you more right now.
Also: If you have a crappy PSU, I would not take the risk of your PSU killing you nice new GPU.
Sayonara!

Linus explains here about what you need to do to power that sucker.

Terve!
Well, AMD is always more powerhungry.
No matter what of the NVidia camp you throw at it, you'll have a hard time consume more power with it.
On the CPU side its a little easier. AMD consumes more power than an intel consumer i5 or i7 (4770k or 4790k for example).
If you want to have more TDP with intel vs. AMD you have to go extreme edition (5960X, 5930k or 5820, it stomps AMD in the ground though).
My recommandation is to give your stuff hell (overclock it) AMD does quite well on OC.
Other than that it's ok.
P.S. Because some people worry: no your PSU will not explode if you overclock.
I've ran a 7970 / 7950 CFX with an intel core i7 off a 650W PSU.
Oh, nice to hear that there are still AMD "fanboys" out there.
Have fun with your system.
Sayonara!

Terve!
"Everyone just calm down for a second." That definitely a thing for the intro sentence.
And I almost fell off my chair as I saw that counterweight.
Also you should think about a ziptie dispenser to optimize your ghettomounting workflow. *smile"
Great video anyway.
Sayonara!

Terve!
I can say that I use 4$ fittings myself. After a year I saw that I only screwed them into the start of the thread.
So, I don't think you have to spend 400 bucks on fittings. I would recommend the 3/8  ID 5/8 OD tubes and fittings though as the current ones buckle more easy (at least from my experience).
Maybe you can post a picture of your plan, so people can see if the things will fit in your case?
Sayonara!
 
 
Edit: Oversaw that the coolant is red. I never ever recommend colored coolant, since mostly it looses the color anyway.

Don't get the red coolant. It's only going to show in the res, and it's going to be pretty tough to clean out if you want to re use the parts in a different loop, or with different color. There are red reservoirs you can use. Going with distilled + additives (prevent gunk grown and corrosion) is what I'd do in this case.
Also, are you sure you don't want to get 90° and 45° fittings as well?

Terve!
I think that you can do it this way.
You will not gain much in terms of performance with the liquid cooling.
If you want to liquid cool your RAM, you should definitely use a 16GB Kit. But if you can upgrade it at any time, you don't have to.
I don't have too much experiance with the RMA situation on the GPUs but I kind of doubt that you get the value of a new GPU back, when you go with an EVGA one.
Good luck with your build.
Sayonara!

Terve!
If you have no idea about overclocking, watch this:

I was able to get my CPU to about 4.9GHz. That said I have a custom liquid cooled PC.
The only thing that I have to disagree with this guide is the temperature measure. (oh, and the ASUS thing, but well...)
Keep using overdrive that appears to be the most accurate values.
For all the other things in your PC you can use open hardwaremonitor.
If you want better suggestions, you might want to post you full set of hardware.
I think that you should be able to reach 4.6GHz or a little more.
Let me know, if you need more info.
P.S. Linus' tutorial is not so good, but he has one.
Sayonara!

Terve!
Well, your speech is true.
All the best for the future.
Sayonara!

I'm not saying you shouldn't overclock, its mostly people not understanding how thermals work, no matter if your on air or water. Temps can't go sub ambient unless your doing extreme cooling solutions like Phase/TEC/DICE/LN2/Liquid Helium. That's the number one reason why alot of people that have a system with temps that are reporting Sub ambient  and swear up and down that its right shouldn't overclock.

Terve!
Linus has a video about it: 
It should cover the needed things. However: I used the video from Jayztwocentz:

I manged to get my FX 8350 at 4.902 MHz. For the temps you can use AMD Overdrive.
It has no accuracy on low temps, but the higher temps are good.
Hope you can use that.
Sayonara!

Terve!
Linus has a video about it: 
It should cover the needed things. However: I used the video from Jayztwocentz:

I manged to get my FX 8350 at 4.902 MHz. For the temps you can use AMD Overdrive.
It has no accuracy on low temps, but the higher temps are good.
Hope you can use that.
Sayonara!

Terve!
Does some kind of "driver is installed" appear?
Have you tried it on an other PC?
Is it shown in the list of audio devices?
Try out some things, so people can help you.
Sayonara!
Shadow

Terve!
I'll throw in my stuff as well, because I made other experiances.
 
 
You can be right here. I never tested two dual channel kits in quad channel (mainly because I do not have a mainboard to support it).
Anyway: If you want to run quad channel, please use a quad channel kit. There is nothing more frustrating than RAM that does not accept each other and as soon as you are in the quad channel pricerange a few more bucks do not count anymore.
 
 
That is not true, at least from what I have experianced. If you have a quad channel kit in a dual channel board it will simply run in dual channel with its bandwith. The RAM cannot force the mainboard to use quad channel.
Both of my machines that have that kind of RAM configuration rund fine. At least in terms of RAM.
 
 
 
So, to answer your question at last:
Yes, it is absolutely possible and you can install it as if it was a dual channel kit (I guess you know that?).
Channel means, as said, "a link where RAM and CPU can communicate with each other".
I hope I clarified all the thing in here.
Sayonara!

Windows has this thing where it will only extend into empty partitons to the right of the one you want to enlarge.
Just google 'partition manager program' and you'll find plenty of programs that will do a proper job. (such as the one linked in the above post).

Terve!
This mainboard will not run the RAM in quad channel mode because is not supported.
Do not worry, it will run in dual channel mode just fine.
 
I would suggest that you get an other 2x2 GB Kit of RAM that has:
-same Frequency (higher does not give you any benefit, because you cannot run it faster)
-same required voltage
-same timings (again, you just would not get any benefit from better timings)
(-same capacity)
You cannot just put in an other 4GB Stick, because the mainboard would want to write to both cannels anyway, so half of your data gets lost and your PC dies off corrupted data.
If you find some of the RAMs that are listed here: http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_ga-b85-hd3.pdf 
that also fits all your other needs, I guess it is not a bad idea to take one of them.
I personally never had problems running different brands of RAM in a mainboard.
 
I do not think that he shoud get 16GB of RAM right now.
If he is planning to do an other system that requires DDR3 RAM, he can think about that, but I guess you can just wait and see what the future brings.
Hope I could answer the questions.
Sayonara!

Terve!
Sorry for just throwing this in. But I had 5 dead MB in the past 2 years. 4 of them were "RoG Class" MB, I do not think that it is all garbage (in the sense of cheep stuff) that dies. And that was on a base of 5 systems I watch. (about 60% failure rate) I do not have other components that failed almost that much. A GPU that was killed by the secound last dead MB, a fan contoller and 2 H40s. Everything else was RoG or my actual MB.
Sayonara! 

Power supply wattage is not everything either. You need to make sure the power supply actually DELIVERS on its claims, and that most of the power goes to the +12V rail(s).