TheRandomness

MH751's go for your upper bracket price every month or so. Wait for that and get those.

Honestly save your money on a better set of of cans the m50 is not really gonna benefit much from a better source. 

I've snapped a few graphics cards in half (without coolers, of course)
Shorted a few, powered one with the power circuitry of another, replaced a memory chip then threw the thing out my window into the garden when it didn't work

I've snapped a few graphics cards in half (without coolers, of course)
Shorted a few, powered one with the power circuitry of another, replaced a memory chip then threw the thing out my window into the garden when it didn't work

You're asking a lot of your potential machine.

If anything, you could get an Ender 3 V2 / Ender 5 and just upgrade the hell out of it. An E3D Chimera as an upgrade with their stainless steel/nozzle X nozzles (as you want to print abrasives) would fulfill the print two things requirements -- though that would require firmware changes and most likely, you'd need to upgrade the mainboard.
 
And, as you want to print abrasives, that somewhat limits your choices. With a requirement for 0.2mm wall thickness you'd want a 0.15 or 0.2mm nozzle, but it's not recommended to print abrasives through such a small nozzle due to the increased risks of clogs.
 
Why do you need to print 2 materials simultaneously? Is it inherent to your design? Or can the part be changed in such a way as to avoid this requirement?

To add onto above, you'll also have to take out the two black screws at the top of the I/O shield as that's holding onto the cooler's shroud.

To add onto above, you'll also have to take out the two black screws at the top of the I/O shield as that's holding onto the cooler's shroud.

Start by taking the screws out of the backplate and then go from there. Just look at what the screws hold and take out the ones you need to. You should make sure that you know where to put the screws when putting it back tohether. Make a quick drawing on paper and place the screws on the point where you took them out for example.
 
You can also check out GamersNexus on youtube. They have many GPU teardowns on their channel. While there might not be one for your specific GPU, they mostly use the same few methods of mounting a cooler. So watch a few of these videos and you should be ready to try it.

This. This is very important. I had this twice happening to my high-end headphones and out of the box, they didn't sound nice. After a week I started to love them a lot. Bass improved aswell as the treble started to sound vivid, sparkly and pleasant. Your brain has to get used to the new sound first.

Could very well be mobo. But the thing I suggest in this case is time. Let yourself find the nuances in the headphones and differences. It's what I and many other like to call brain burn in.  But I'm not sure what a cheap $5 DAC amp can do but worth a try.

sad to see them go even if they haven't released a proper upgrade to my V10
Might be time to consider a DAP

Can I just drop a casual reminder:

Please do not quote images, just for other people's courtesy.

- Thread locked. Fantasy builds are not allowed here.

If you get as far away as possible from anything labeled "gaming", your money will go further.
I cannot believe the number of headsets that cost well over 100 quid that are just showpieces and have relatively poor sound.
Regardless of what you buy, I would recommend going to a shop where you can try them on first or at least has a return policy. 
You might even get better quality for your money by buying a good set of headphones and adding your own mic. 
 

Lowering the volume on the PC reduces bit depth, any decent amp should modulate volume from nil until max so the issue of not being able to go quiet enough really should be a non-issue. It is due to this bit-depth reduction that the technically correct answer is to max out software controls and modulate from the hardware controls.

Totally subjective.

If what you want is a wireless way to hear simple game audio and communicate - and the quality of the audio and mic is of zero concern, than basically any wireless headset will do.

Spending $250 on a headset so that you can loose all of the fidelity to Bluetooth compression is just silly IMO. Wireless audio is not for fidelity but for convenience. There is no such thing as quality wireless audio. Once that is established, you can better decide how much the wireless experience is worth to you.

In my experience, I don't pace around the room or go for a jog while I'm playing games, so being tethered to my PC or consoles really doesn't impact me at all, and since it allows for better, clearer audio, I'd make that trade 100% of the time.

For the same $250 you could get a Bose CQ35 gen1, and a quality boom mic. Or a Crossfade by V-Moda and their own boom mic - which will sound infinitely better when physically connected.
 
Mind you, I am an audio-snob so my perspective is clearly going to carry that bias. For $250 you are entering into a decent market of starter headphones that can really sound great if you choose wisely. I think it would be wasteful for spend that kind of money on a headset knowing that it's not going to deliver any real fidelity. But then, being wireless just isn't all that enticing to me.

And people say AMD drivers are crap....

Try lowering levels in windows

Make the mic closer to your face and reduce the gain, also use a pop filter to avoid excess wind noise 
 

Thanks for the good suggestions as well. I've got quite a few options now, I will just go over them and see which fits my preference. In this case it might be better to spend more have for a lifetime than have cheap and wanting to upgrade shortly after.
I'm actually not a big fan of those internal soundcards, they are not always that good, I prefer an external AMP instead for that reason too. As for the electronic noise, I experience it with my current PC with my headphones connected to the motherboard. This is only sometimes though, other days it works perfectly fine. On my past PC build I never had the electronic issue. Could be my motherboard, but I don't think it's defective or something. At least with an external AMP I will be sure that noise is gone and I get more out of my headphones.

hyperX cloud 2 wireless or hyperX cloud flight

thge inherent difference between a tube amp and a traditional non tube amp is one can use tubes or not tubes themselves change the sound signature. and depending on which group of thought within audio it can change stuff like presentation as well with tube rolling. different tube amp designs are more ennclined to tube rolling than other amps. I was also not at all suggesting OP get a tube amp at allnor was I ever suggesting a person needs a tube amp to get anything decent as I myself for a long time and to this day run a $100 solid state amp.

If you mean the operating system's volume control... Keep that at 100 and adjust the knobs on your physical device accordingly.

For around $100 I'd go for either a Schiit Fulla or Fiio K3. If you don't need mic in then the Fiio is the better choice. Both are DAC/AMPs, a "sound card".... , and are a huge step up over on board.  For less I don't think there are many quality options. $100 is sort of a sweet spot for these class devices. 

Ah yes, victim blaming. They should have done X to prevent Y from happening to them. Excellent, great to know.