GTechGeorge

Yeah that's what I was thinking. I recently picked up a secondhand ASUS portable monitor which I believe is either 24" or 27" and it still requires a dedicated barrel jack plug for power.

I quite enjoyed building in the SSUPD Meshlicious, and I believe even the Cooler Master NR200/P case can take an ATX PSU with an adapter bracket.

I've got a client looking for recommendations for monitors, if any, that can be both powered AND given video data over a single USB-C port. Having not needed to search for monitors for a while now I'm honestly a bit out of the loop, as most monitors I know of can only provide power to another device over their USB-C port opposed to powering the monitor. My client would be hooking two of these monitors onto a rolling desktop station via VESA mount and would be connected to a desktop PC. I know he would at least need an adapter to convert HDMI or DisplayPort to USB-C, or even a PCIe-based Thunderbolt 3/4 card for USB-C output with enough power for a monitor, but then the question comes back to if there are any monitors that can take power and video over USB-C. If anybody has recommendations for decent panels that fit this criteria, please let me know.

I've been getting fed up with my WD My Book Duo recently for a number of reasons so I'd like to swap it out but I don't know where to start. While I don't actually need the "Network Attached" portion of a NAS as I will be the only person connecting straight into this enclosure from my PC and not routing it through the network of my house, NAS is the best term I know to use for it. Correct me if I'm wrong. Requirements: High-speed connectivity is a must as one of my two drives holds video files I edit directly off of, with the second drive being a full backup of both this drive & my RAID 0 Windows partition. I'd like to use RJ45 ethernet connectivity direct into my PC as I have both 2.5G and 1G ethernet unused on my motherboard. The USB connectivity of my current enclosure was abysmal when cloning 9TB across a USB cable. I ONLY have room for a dual-bay enclosure on my desk, so unless there's some slim vertical enclosure holding more drives I'm fine with just two bays for now. Automatic backup functionality would be nice, and I would still like to be able to access the files on my 20TB full backup drive if needed. My current drive enclosure uses Acronis True Image to do automatic backups but stores them as .tibx files, and the app is no longer allowing me to clean up old backup versions for some reason so I now have 600 GB of backups that cannot be removed. I am not buying a slim office PC and cramming it behind my desktop. There's barely enough room for my current enclosure on my desk let alone an entire second computer.

I just shipped a build out to a client with an ASRock RX 7800 XT Phantom Gaming installed into an MSI B650P-PRO WiFi motherboard and they're having issues with no signal to their monitor. Pretty much looks like I need to contact ASRock support for this, but if anyone can identify any other troubleshooting steps I might've missed it'd be greatly appreciated. So far these are the steps I provided to the buyer, in order: Try different DisplayPort connectors on the graphics card, all 3 Try HDMI on the graphics card, only one Switch HDMI cable to the motherboard for the integrated graphics on the R7 7700X Ensure monitor is set to proper HDMI input Switch DisplayPort cable to the motherboard for integrated graphics Ensure monitor is set to proper DisplayPort input Shut down PC, remove power cable, hold power button to drain residual power stored in the system. Transfer display cable back to GPU, restart PC Shut down PC again, bridge CMOS clear pins After removing the GPU completely from the build the integrated graphics kicked in providing a display. Buyer went through the first-time Windows setup process and I instructed them to ensure removal of old AMD graphics driver. Reinstall GPU, VGA LED on the motherboard is back Switched to secondary PCIe 4.0 x16 slot, same issue persists Because the issue occurred on two separate motherboard slots I'm thinking it's the graphics card, and they don't have a spare GPU to test that theory. Having them ship the PC back to me isn't feasible as it travelled across the country and was not cheap to ship. The GPU however was a brand-new purchase from Micro Center so no foul-play with a used component happening here, so I'll be reaching out to ASRock themselves for more information. No visual damage to the PC and the buyer didn't mention the outer box being banged up so I don't think it's something I can claim shipping insurance reimbursement for. Yes I used expanding foam packaging inside of the PC to ensure nothing moves around in transit, and I filled any and all empty space in the system to keep all the components in place. I also had the buyer send me photos of the PCIe slot on the graphics card and there doesn't appear to be any cracking or damage to the PCB. For reference I validate all my builds are in proper working condition before shipping them out through a 72hr 100% load burn-in process after installing all proper drivers and software, so yes, the PC was confirmed working before packing it up.

As mentioned yes, I removed the RTX 4080 from the PC and installed it into my test bench without the riser cable. I did also use the included 12VHPWR adapter with three distinct 8-pin PCIe cables opposed to a dedicated 12VHPWR cable such as the one included on my friend's power supply. Yes, I ensured the 12VHPWR connector was 100% inserted properly, both on the GPU and the PSU ends.

My best friend & I made a Micro Center trip a few weekends ago to get his parts for a new PC as you do, but ever since building it he has not been able to keep the thing stable resulting in frequent crashes, BSOD's, freezes, loss of display, etc. The current culprit seems to be something GPU, or at least GPU driver related, as the PC will not keep the most recent NVIDIA driver installed. Upon restart the driver seemingly uninstalls itself and the GPU is no longer detected by the system, albeit the video cable is still plugged into the GPU and not the motherboard. I still need to double check to ensure the PCIe connector is running the GPU riser at PCIe 4.0 speeds as well. So far I have: Confirmed the RTX 4080 works on my test bench, installs drivers fine and passes stress tests Confirmed his system runs stress tests just fine with other GPUs; I used DDU first and tried a GT 730 & GTX 1660 Ti respectively, both worked fine Loaded optimized default BIOS settings to run at default RAM speeds and ensured the most recent BIOS update is installed Reinstalled all motherboard drivers on his PC Updated Windows to the most recent version He has fresh reinstalled Windows from scratch at least two or three times now. I'm tempted to tear apart the whole system, completely wipe the SSDs entirely and rebuild it myself to see if some weird, obscure problem is causing this but I'd love to hear additional input/troubleshooting steps. All components were purchased brand-new from Micro Center maybe 2 weeks ago tops. AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D Deepcool LT520 AiO G.Skill 2x32GB DDR5-6000 Gigabyte B650i AORUS ULTRA Samsung 980 PRO 1TB M.2 Crucial P3 Plus 4TB M.2 ASUS RTX 4080 ProArt Cooler Master V1100 SFX Platinum PSU Lian Li Q58 (White) Windows 11 64-bit The CPU also shows up in HWinfo like this for some reason?? RTX 4080 didn't display here at all, although it showed up in Task Manager after installing the driver but disappeared after restart.

I'll look into it. It doesn't *have* to be 2.5GbE, my motherboard just happens to have a Realtek 2.5GbE and a 1GbE Intel LAN port respectively, and it'll certainly be faster than the max speeds of the current USB connection on the My Book Duo.

I'm really not looking to stick an entire slim-tower Optiplex on my desk when I have very little room already. Hence my mention of how my current WD My Book Duo fits nicely in the space behind my monitor.

I've been using a WD My Book Duo for a little over two years now and I'm looking to swap enclosures as there's a couple of things I don't like about it ranging from it's USB-only connection and how it's given me a scare a couple times by not detecting drives or showing up in Windows Explorer. After recently upgrading one of the included 10TB drives to a 20TB WD Red Pro and realizing that 9TB of data cloning over a USB cable could be considered cruel and unusual punishment, I'm looking for something faster especially considering I edit video footage directly off of one of the drives. Ideally I'm looking for something dual-bay because I don't have a lot of room at my desk to house the thing and my current enclosure is the perfect size to tuck behind my monitors. I'd also like to be able to access both drives individually because I have the 10TB WD Red drive I access for video footage and edit from, and the 20TB WD Red Pro drive is a whole-system backup of all of my files. Automatic backup functionality would be nice to have as well. I only need the enclosure to plug directly into my desktop, ideally into the unused 2.5G LAN port on my motherboard. No other devices in my house need to access it. I'm not sure what sort of price range these requirements run so let's say my budget for now is $300, but if there is a highly recommended option for slightly more I'd be interested in hearing about it.

USB 3.2 Gen 1. And yes it is plugged into an identical port on my motherboard. https://www.westerndigital.com/products/external-drives/wd-my-book-duo-usb-3-1-hdd#WDBFBE0200JBK-NESN

The My Book Duo is unfortunately limited to USB connection only. It's stupid, I agree. Can't say I've ever tried a "USB Linux boot" before, nor have I ever used Linux in my life and am kind of afraid to.

You know I tried that right?

That's what I'm thinking I may need to do. Luckily the drive isn't an active Windows install or anything so I guess I could just do it by hand but figured cloning the whole partition would make it functionally identical to my 10TB with the convenience of working in the background.

I have a Western Digital My Book Duo that I am upgrading one of the 10TB WD Red hard drives to a 20TB WD Red hard drive. The problem is that the My Book Duo only connects to my PC via USB, and cloning 9TB of data from one hard drive to the other over USB is estimated to take sixteen days using Acronis True Image for Western Digital. The first clone had to be abruptly cancelled because we had a bad storm that knocked out power to my house and my UPS wasn't going to last the full 3 hours until the power came back on, and now it's gotten hung up on the cloning after about a week into the cloning process and it needed to be cancelled. I am now having to restart the cloning process for the third time and need to know what the fastest way to clone this drive is because I'd really like to be done fighting with this thing. I tried hooking up the drives to my test bench individually via SATA but neither my brand new 20TB nor my 10TB master clone drive were allocating in Disk Management properly and I was not going to format them just to have them show up as that'd kill all my data on the 10TB. Please help

Gigabyte A520i, as mentioned. I *think* his second M.2 drive is just his games drive which yeah probably isn't ideal to have over USB but at least it's not his boot drive.

Because that's money he doesn't have, the board is already purchased and installed. The cheapest ITX motherboard with two M.2 slots was another $80 dollars.

So I'm helping upgrade the PC of one of my online friends and have the system built and ready to ship to him. When it arrives he will install the CPU, GPU and storage from his current PC into the new one. The predicament we're in is that we need to convert one of his NVMe SSDs to a different form factor, ideally SATA, to get it hooked up to his PC as he's downsizing to an ITX system and will only have one M.2 slot on his board (Gigabyte A520i). From what I've been reading up on while searching for 2.5" adapters is that NVMe SSDs just will not adapt to SATA easily, so I'm looking for solutions to this problem as well as alternatives if needed.

Yeah so turns out the CPU is LITERALLY BENT at the corners and that's what the issue was. Got a different B760 board and threw in a Core i5-12400 non-F I had on hand and it fired up first try, no problem. Now I get to fight eBay on the return process because I literally just missed the money back return window thanks to being busy with university.

UPDATE: Reseated the CPU and tried again today. I made sure to carefully dust out/sweep the RAM slots to make sure nothing was stuck in them (electronics vacuum, don't worry.) I have a spare Core i5-12400 (non-F) I might try out but the only other spare board I have is ITX so obviously can't get 4 sticks of RAM in there. Set the RAM to run at DDR4-1600 and as soon as I tried with the second stick we failed to get to BIOS. Gave it a shot and updated to the most recent Version 2.05 from January and same issue. Isopropyl alcohol; cleaned off the CPU when I removed it for this picture and it spilled a lil bit off the Q-tip. Board was completely dry before trying the troubleshooting steps today so it had evaporated. Honestly I have no clue. I noticed it after I took the photo yesterday and when I looked again it was gone. My thinking is it was a light reflection as there was nothing of that nature visible in the socket upon second inspection.

I've been working on a new build and I cannot for the life of me get the thing to POST with more than one DIMM installed. With only one memory stick in the rightmost slot I can pretty much always get into the BIOS and can get into Windows 10 as well, but trying any other slot or any combination of 2 or more DIMMs the board gets hung up on a DRAM issue evident by the status LED. So far I have tried: Lexar Hades RGB 3600MHz-CL18 2x8GB (two separate kits, tried all 4 DIMMs) Corsair Vengeance RGB 3000MHz-CL15 4x8GB (all 4 DIMMS, even got the kit RMA'd because 2 DIMMS wouldn't POST at all) Timetec Pinnacle Konduit 3200MHz-CL16 2x16GB (tried both DIMMs) I have reset the CMOS countless times now and just now disassembled the build to examine the CPU socket revealing zero bent pins, which I was hoping would be the issue as it's the only thing that I think would cause this issue. Build Specs are as follows: Intel Core i5-12400F Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black ASRock B760M Pro RS/D4 Intel 670p 1TB Gen3 M.2 SSD EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 FTW3 EVGA 700GD 700W 80+ Gold rated PSU Antec Dark Cube Inverted mATX Chassis

Okay genuine question: How did they get that custom animation to play on boot-up? Considering doing something like that for a build I have planned.

Yeah when I first got the card I ran three separate instances of Unigine Superposition just to see what sort of scores I could crank out of this thing (my buddies and I have a bit of a benchmark competition going on) and it completed all three tests just fine. I just ran another Unigine Superposition test with the 4K Optimized preset and it passed with flying colors. No weird glitches to be had at all. Sure the coil whine was a bit noticeable but the temps weren't unusual; 77C Max but I'm planning on switching to a more airflow-optimized case anyway.

I'm definitely leaning more towards monitor issue. Before running my RTX 3090 my daily driver was a GTX 1080 Ti and had no issues with that whatsoever. Even borrowed my buddy's RTX 3070 for a while as we're waiting for Black Friday to get him the rest of his parts and that ran without issue, too. Same monitor, same DisplayPort cable. Even wiped the old drivers before swapping in the RTX 3090 and updated them to the most recent version on Saturday. Not only that but I've been benchmarking and testing a system I just built for a friend with an RTX 2080 in it with the same monitor and had no issues with that either.

SOLUTION: Idk if I just didn't have the DisplayPort cable pushed in far enough for what. Swapped DisplayPort outputs on the back of the GPU and that seemed to have fixed it. So I finally got around try playing some games with my new RTX 3090 FE and get greeted by this instead. Is this card like, too powerful for my monitor to handle? Originally I was thinking it might just be a power supply issue as I only have a 750W 80+ Gold unit from EVGA, but I have a UPS that supports up to 1000W of power and the built-in screen says my system and monitor combined draw like 580W of power. GPU is plugged into the DisplayPort connector on the back, and the monitor is the LG 34UC87C. I was planning on upgrading to a 144Hz panel anyway, but wanted to wait until after the holiday season if possible so I could recover from the burnt hole in my pocket left by my RTX 3090 purchase haha.