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StrikerX1360

Member
  • Content Count

    192
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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2 Followers

About StrikerX1360

  • Title
    Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stuck In Ohio
  • Interests
    Computers, Electronics, Computers, Technology, Computers, Gaming, and Computers. Did I mention computers?
  • Occupation
    I do some stuff, YouTuber for fun

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-6850K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG STRIX X99
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance RGB (4 x 8GB)
  • GPU
    NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition
  • Case
    Corsair Crystal 460X RGB
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD + SeaGate BarracudaPro 4TB HDD + Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD
  • PSU
    EVGA Supernova P2 750W 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    LG 34UC87C (Won in LG Ultrawide Festival 2015 Competition)
  • Cooling
    Corsair H150i Pro
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 LUX w/Cherry MX Red
  • Mouse
    Corsair Scimitar Pro RGB
  • Sound
    Mackie CR3 Studio Monitors
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64-Bit
  • Laptop
    2018 HP Spectre X360 15" with a 6-core Intel Core i7 & NVIDIA MX150 discrete graphics
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

1,432 profile views
  1. I built an ITX VR PC for my basement a few weeks ago with a 2700X and a GTX 1080. It's got a Noctua NH-L9i Chromax with an AM4 adapter bracket installed and uses Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste. When I was messing around with the boot settings I noticed that it idles at 51C, even in the BIOS. I haven't tested any VR games on it yet as I had to move back to my apartment for the starting semester so I don't know how well it fairs in game, but the GPU idles at a respectable 38C. My friend says that Ryzen tends to keep their core clocks very high even when idling. I did switch the memory profile so that my RAM could run at its full 3200MHz speed so I'm not sure if that effected the CPU clocks somehow. Are these temps normal? Because they definitely don't seem like it. The parts list is contained below. Parts list: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/sQTBD3
  2. I'm looking for the best backup solution for my PC whether it just be a massive internal HDD or an external NAS solution. Right now my system uses a 500GB SATA SSD for the boot drive (40% full), a 1TB SATA SSD for my games drive (90% full), and a 4TB 7,200RPM HDD for mass storage including games, pictures, documents, and most importantly, my YouTube projects which consist of video files, project files, assets, music, etc. (56% full). I've started noticing my hard drive has been getting a bit noisy and I've only been using it for maybe 2 years (it's a Seagate BarraCuda Pro) but I'll also hear it spin up considerably when I'm doing basically nothing more than idling or watching YouTube before ramping back down. It's been a miracle I haven't experienced any data loss or drive failures *knocks on wood* but I'm starting to get antsy about when that may be. I feel like going with something with 8TB of space or more would do nicely as it'd need to be able to hold partitions of each drive as backups as I want to back up my whole system, not just one drive, on the regular. Plus, I might be upgrading my SSDs here soon as my games drive is basically packed at this point and I'm now resorting to installing games on the hard drive. Would it be more beneficial to just throw an 8TB-10TB HDD in my system and call it a day? I have an extra hard drive bay free and plenty of SATA ports so no shortage there. If so, what models would you recommend? I know there's NAS optimized and data center specific HDDs out there which have added features over your standard consumer drive. Or would it just be better to get a multi-drive NAS system with multiple drives and possibly, multiple backups? I don't want to spend too much money as I could easily look up 4TB SSDs and call it a day but those break into the $500 territory per drive. And like I said, I might need to save some money to pay for new SSDs. Thanks in advance!
  3. It would appear not. I'll look into an HDMI 2.0 adapter or HDMI 2.0 cable. Thanks
  4. I own an HTC VIVE (original) which I hook into my gaming PC to play, which I then hook into a TV in my basement to show everyone what I'm seeing. However, my PC is only outputting 1080p to my 4K TCL TV and I can't seem to figure out how to fix it? Both my Display Settings and NVIDIA Control Panel say that the maximum resolution supported is 1080p. My PC uses a GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition so I don't have any worries about my card not being able to supply said resolution so I'm thinking it might just be my cable? I'm using an HDMI to DisplayPort adapter which converts DP from my GPU to HDMI which goes to the TV as my VIVE uses my only HDMI port. I attempted hooking my VIVE into my DisplayPort adapter and the TV into native HDMI but it would not allow my VIVE to turn on. Thoughts?
  5. EDIT: I have found a solution! https://support.nzxt.com/hc/en-us/articles/360022695713-My-CAM-Powered-Device-Is-Not-Recognized
  6. I just built a PC using some old parts my friends and I had lying around to sell for some extra money and right now I'm going about the process of installing all of the necessary software as I wait for the Windows 10 key to come through. I've got my old Kraken X61 installed and I forgot how awful it was to install drivers for this thing. I'm literally working off of a brand new version of CAM on a clean install of Windows 10 and every time CAM says the drivers are installed and prompts me to restart the PC, nothing happens after the restart. I have no clue how to fix it as I haven't had this cooler in my system for about a year now and completely forget how I did this the last time. I found this topic on Tom's Hardware of a fix that someone attempted which worked for them. I did what they recommended, installed the driver they included and told Device Manager to search for it at the location on my SSD, but it still says "Windows was unable to install your 690LC". The cooler itself is working as the CPU temperatures are idling at reasonable levels but I can't make adjustments to pump/fan speed or change the LED color. and unfortunately, "Don't use CAM" isn't gonna work because I have a Hue+ installed as well.
  7. I'm almost certain that they'll be selling merch at the event as it looks like they've done before. I got the merch pack and it comes with a t-shirt, a pin, and a lanyard, all which I think you can purchase individually.
  8. Nevermind, I found the answer. Turns out I had the USB 2.0 header cable plugged into the wrong port as it was right next to an optional USB 2.0 port on my motherboard.
  9. I just temporarily plugged all of the cables back in so that all 5 LL fans are now hooked into the Lighting Node Pro and RGB Hub that came with my original pack of LL140's. I'm getting the result I had originally where only the first two fans would light up. Should I try the hubs from the pack of LL120's?
  10. Just yesterday I underwent the arduous task of transferring my system from my Corsair 450D to my new 460X RGB and bought 3 more LL120 fans to complement my 2 previously purchased LL140 fans for 5 total. The LL series uses a Lighting Node Pro which in my case, came with both sets of my fans. The case however, comes with 3 SP120 RGB fans preinstalled which have a physical controller located inside of the case which then connects to the preinstalled RGB LED Hub (not a Lighting Node Pro). I uninstalled the 3 SP120's and the physical controller, but left the RGB hub in the case as I figured I could just connect my Lighting Node Pro to it. Here I am today and the LNP, and by extension the 5 fans, don't show up in the iCUE software at all. Originally only two of the LL120's would light up as they were plugged into the same ports that my LL140's used to be in and the other 3 had no lights. I swapped out the LNP with the one that came with the set of LL120's and now all 5 fans are lit up and appear to be running in sequence, but it still doesn't show up in iCUE. This makes me wonder if the preinstalled RGB hub has custom firmware specific to the 3 SP120's as there are also buttons on the front panel to change their color. I'm asking ahead of time because the RGB hub is held in with double sided tape and I don't want to go prying it off and wasting the tape to test out one of my other hubs in the event I'm wrong. TL;DR Bought a 460X RGB, swapped out the stock SP120's with LL120's in tangent with my LL140's, Lighting Node Pro doesn't show up in iCUE but all fans are glowing. Does the included RGB hub that connects to the LNP have custom firmware specifically for this case and fans?
  11. Just yesterday I migrated my system out of my aging Corsair 450D into a Corsair 460X and am very happy with the looks. However, I've used iCue to control my 2 LL140 fans for over a year and just added 3 LL120's into the mix. However, iCue doesn't detect the Lighting Node Pro anymore which is strange and only the two fans plugged into the two RGB headers on the link box are in a default RGB state while the other 3 are off. The issue is that iCue doesn't have a button to update the firmware for a device that just doesn't show up in the software and everywhere I look for an updated firmware file are from links that are sometimes 2 years old. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this?
  12. So a friend of mine has decided to upgrade from his aging Core i7-6700K to a Ryzen 7 2700X and as you can tell, he's switching over from Intel to AMD. I remember seeing Dmitri from HardwareCanucks say that he had lots of issues when he did the same on his workstation PC regarding driver issues and whatnot and it required him to reinstall Windows. I'm definitely more of a hardware guy rather than a software guy, so I don't exactly know the ins and outs of going about reinstalling Windows. Does my friend need to back up his data or will it be just fine on his SSD? Does he need to get a new Windows key or will the one he has now be just fine? If so, can I get help with as to how we should go about this? We probably won't be switching out the components for a few days so we won't be able to provide a real-time explanation of the process.
  13. I tried following both of those guides and the first one had no effect while the second one was someting i had already tried in the past. basically the only thing that seemed to work was changing my display resolution from 3840x2160 to 1920x1080. That gave me the following result which is the look I'm going for but I really wish it would work at 4K.
  14. I'm pretty sure Photoshop CS2 doesn't have that. These are the only options under "Preferences" and "Experimental Features" isn't one of them.
  15. So about a week ago I installed Photoshop CS2 onto my laptop as I'm trying to lightly dabble in digital art and figure a good way to start is with my touchscreen laptop and included stylus. I'm using an HP Spectre x360 with an 8th gen quad-core i7, 16GB of RAM, 15" 4k touchscreen, etc. Adobe allows you to download old versions of their software from their website and their CS2 lineup includes the activation code so they're essentially letting you use it for free. I've used this same version of Photoshop on my desktop for years now and haven't had issues with scaling because I'm using a 34" Ultrawide monitor, but that monitor is also essentially 1440p widescreen opposed to 4k. On my laptop the scaling is horrible and almost impossible to use because all of the menus and tools are so hard to click and even the cursor of my pen is virtually invisible. I've tried changing font size through the application's preferences and even added an internal manifest file to try and override the menu scaling as recommended by multiple sources I saw. If anyone can give me pointers on how to get it to look naturally I'd greatly appreciate it. The included image is what I see when I boot up the app but for reference, the tools window on the upper left hand side of the screen is only about two inches tall.
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