Heizoel_Walther

I think we should ask Linus  ..
 
Q: do like bassy music? because personally Beyerdynamic have flat basses.
 
Although the previous models where really good for there price I heard on website reviews.
I havent found any reviews about one, but Beyerdynamic has a high and good reputation.
I think these are solid when you are not a base heavy person.
 
lets wait what other people have to say in this post

Same opinion as Jason! It's really good!!!
 
It feels a lot like COD but with better graphics and the titans as the title says. It's fast, fluid, easy and a lot of FUN!

So I played it for about 2h now and it's amazing.
The gunplay is really fluid and fast and the parkour works really good.
And the Titan mixes up the hole gameplay a bit like the vehicle do in Battlefield.
And everything is well balanced nothing seems OP but the Beta hasn't all weapons and Titans so that could be different in the final game.

The graphics are good but nothing special and it's really not demanding at all. (My  single GTX670 can run it at 4K with 40-50Fps and in 1440p+4xMSAA with way over 60FPS all the time)

The only problems I have right now is extreme tearing and V-sync is so laggy that it's unplayable with it.(Could get fixed in final)

I wasn't sure if I wanted the game by watching the trailers but after playing it I'm 100% buying it on release date.

lets say my aerocool case is not so good... 

Theoretically, they're the same thing, but I don't recommend either.

Just go into the BIOS and set the Vcore to what ever it's saying there, just not to auto. Should be around 1.2V and then set the multiplier to 40 to begin. Don't play around with the base clock because that ends in instability and it's not really worth it. Then try to boot your OS, but that should work! To test the stability I use prime95 but you can use OCCT or what ever you want to use. Watch your temps though! I wouldn't go about 70°C, intel guarantees for 68°C or something, but 2° more or less isn't the world and also 80°C for 20mins won't kill your CPU but staying below 70°C will be safe! If you're OC is stable go into the BIOS and increase the clockspeed and voltage if needed. But watch your temps every time you're running the stability test.
 
What helped me getting lower temps was lowering the PLL voltage from I think it was 1.700V or so to 1.550V. Didn't effect stability at all for me. If your system should boot anymore and you can't enter the bios clear the CMOS. Your mobo manual helps your figuring out how to do that Have fun!
 
Edit: Always try to run the lowest voltage possible because voltage results in temperature!

Just go into the BIOS and set the Vcore to what ever it's saying there, just not to auto. Should be around 1.2V and then set the multiplier to 40 to begin. Don't play around with the base clock because that ends in instability and it's not really worth it. Then try to boot your OS, but that should work! To test the stability I use prime95 but you can use OCCT or what ever you want to use. Watch your temps though! I wouldn't go about 70°C, intel guarantees for 68°C or something, but 2° more or less isn't the world and also 80°C for 20mins won't kill your CPU but staying below 70°C will be safe! If you're OC is stable go into the BIOS and increase the clockspeed and voltage if needed. But watch your temps every time you're running the stability test.
 
What helped me getting lower temps was lowering the PLL voltage from I think it was 1.700V or so to 1.550V. Didn't effect stability at all for me. If your system should boot anymore and you can't enter the bios clear the CMOS. Your mobo manual helps your figuring out how to do that Have fun!
 
Edit: Always try to run the lowest voltage possible because voltage results in temperature!

you are working at a disadvantage already with the 600t as the fans are located
under the roof panel automatically creating louder noise level over fans placed
inside the chassis under the radiator.
 
not owning a 600t, but using a H100i with the fans in pull on my arc midi (no filter)
i came to this conclusion for noise evaluation:
 
NoiseBlocker eLoop: used multi frame because ELoop can not be used for pull.
M12-3 (1800rpm) were pretty quite @12v and moved a decent amount of air for cooling.
BSP PL-PS @100% were louder and moved more air. both fans are expensive and
under-volt pretty good.
 
Noctua Nf-F12: fantastic balance in speed and noise-level. but @12v were louder than
NB PL-PS and no flow difference for temperatures. again can be expensive.
 
Corsair SP-120: using the SPQE PWM fans are quieter than the NB PL-PS and NF-F12
@12v but are also a bit weaker in air-flow with 6° warmer temps.
 
Scythe Gentle Typhoon: tbh, prolly the best balanced fan in noise and temps, but can
tend to click when under-volted. seeing that they are no longer being manufactured
could be an issue depending on purchase location.
 
hope this helps.

some thoughts I have: if you're using low impedance headphones (usually under 80 ohms is considerered "low"), I'd advise against getting a soundcard, as most of them have a high output impedance, which can F up some stuff (or so I've been told). Also, soundcards (compared to external dacs/amps) get a lot of interference from things like graphics cards, maybe wireless network cards in PCI or PCI-E. like my old soundcard, I got some sort of interference, almost like coil whine, going through the mic, so people on skype got weird sounds varying in pitch, the pitch was "locked" with the FPS I got. higher FPS gave me a higher pitched noise, going through my mic, so people on Skype heard it. 
 
as usual, I forgot everything I had thought of when writing this. I'm beginning to wonder if my short-term memory is broken. 

The best upgrade you can find when shopping for audio is going for a good Speaker/Headphone, they are the ones that drive the sound. A separated Headphone with a Mic is always a better choice, there are not good headsets unless you go really high end (like a Sennheiser PC360 which is really expensive).
If you feel good with your headset and don't want to change it, you can get a DAC+AMP that is not plugged inside your PC, but external connected to USB. These require no drivers, have no incompatibility issues or bugs, and do the job better and cleaner (also louder) than a sound card would. A good example of this is the Fiio E10 (around $70). 
If you don't want to expend that amount of money, or really don't want to add another thing to your desk, you can grab a soundcard, but take in mind that they won't be such great performers compared to external solutions. However it will still be an upgrade compared to your onboard audio.
You can get Asus Xonar DGX sound card ($40) if you don't really have much budget, but even a Asus Xonar U3 ($40 too), it's a external USB  dac+amp, would be a better choice. 

This doesn't have to do with sound, but I wanted to state that I find it funny how everyone here treats Linus like a god. That everything he says is finite. He is a person, very intelligent and knowledgeable, but open to opinion as much as we are. That being said keep your minds open and Linus keep up the good work.