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ih8bananas

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About ih8bananas

  • Birthday Aug 21, 1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    PA
  • Interests
    All things tech!
  • Biography
    Along with my passion for music, my other love is for computers and technology. I built a computer, wrote my own video game, and hacked my first copy of windows, all while still in middle school.
  • Occupation
    Product Manager

System

  • CPU
    Core i7 5820k
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-X99-UD4 X99
  • RAM
    32GB (4 x 8GB) of Ballistix Sport PC4-19200 DDR4 RAM
  • GPU
    2 NVIDIA EVGA GTX 780 TI Superclocked in SLI
  • Case
    Rosewill RISE Full ATX Case with side window
  • Storage
    Crucial MX200 CT250MX200SSD1 2.5" 250GB
  • PSU
    Rosewill PHOTON 1200W PSU
  • Display(s)
    Sharp TC-70UQ17U
  • Cooling
    Phanteks PH-TC12DX
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

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  1. Not really what I'm going for, but an interesting idea. Are you aware of a 2U chassis that could support dual full-size GPUs?
  2. I am having the hardest time to find a small case that fits my requirements. I want a PC case that is the smallest possible size and still supports SLI. The Cerverus case looks really good at 18L, but didn't get funded, so I wanted to see what the limit is using a scratch built case. I'd like to propose as design. At 10L, this is physically the smallest case you could make that would support a Micro-ATX Motherboard, 2x Titan Xs, 120mm AIO cooler, 750W SFX PSU, 2x SSDs. This is a quick mock-up, but I'd like input before proceeding to prototyping. I have plans to put front panel I/O and fan controller in the angled area in the illustrations. I could also easily change the orientation of the GPU in the design, but it would require additional height (~15mm) to make room for the SLI bridge and PCI risers. The plans could also be modified for a Mini-ITX and single GPU (8.3L).
  3. I'm curious. I noticed you GPU and CPU block are in parallel. How does that work for you? I've read you need to be very making sure one is not more restrictive than the other are you can get uneven flow, since water will flow through the path of least resistance.
  4. pics or it didn't happen, j/k. that's good to know. do you exhaust the air outside the room during the summer months or is the rad just external to the case? My computer is right next to my bedroom window so I wanted to put the rad in the window exhausting out.
  5. I agree cooper was probably not the smartest thing he's done when trying to take heat out of the room. He probably had more surface area in all that cooper tubing than in his rad outside. Mounting the rad isn't really figured out yet. If my experiment fails then I can always put the rad inside, there a perfect spot for a 360mm rad. I guess I'm going to make a "window unit" that the rad and fan can mount to.
  6. Parts come on Thursday, I'll update with a build log and updates along the way!
  7. I don't know if it's really worth the effort. I was hoping somebody else was thinking the same thing I am and did it already. I assume at load the system can draw as much as 900W which is being dissipated mostly into heat. During the summer, it's essentially a 900W space heater, if I can vent it out the window that would be great! Then during the winter it's my very own personal space heater I can put by my feet. lol
  8. it's my first time doing liquid cooling, but I feel pretty confident. watching hours of tutorials on how to do it
  9. First this is not an attempt to create a whole room water cooling madness (sorry Linus) I want to remotely locate my radiator outside my case for a few reason. 1: During the summer I want to dump the excess heat outside 2: During winter, locate the radiator inside to conserve the heat 3: Reduce noise by putting the rad and fans further away from the main PC 4: Because I think it'll be cool. (I've attached a picture to this post of my current setup with air cooling) Are there any real reason why this is not a good idea? Is the pump I have going to be powerful enough? Any words of wisdom? Here's what I want to do:
  10. Looks like the best slim radiator is the HW Labs Nemesis 360 GTS. Info from xtremerigs.com and compiled by me in excel.
  11. I agree about the 60mm being alittle rediculous. I could live with the 45mm one. I think it's going to come down to actual dimensions. I can plan all I want on the computer, but it comes down to reality. The rad next to the gpu i dont think I would want to go much bigger anyway, even if I could physically go 35mm, the rad would be nearly right against the block - although it would not block 100% it's still not great for airflow.
  12. Well I do have some fans from previous build. They are the Zalman F3 FDB I could use those as they have great static pressure. But I only have 3 of them, and I'll have 6 fans total in the end, 4 on the rads, and 1 exhaust in the back, +1 in the bottom for the HDD tray. I'm plan on the speed controller on the fans so whether 3-pin or 4-pin I dont think I care in the end. This is pretty much the best little device I've found in a while, but it works best if all the fans have the same specs http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
  13. This is great advice thanks. I planned on low RPM fans for silent operation, Like the Silverstone AP121 at 5V (700RPM)
  14. I did a quick render. 30mm, 45mm, and 60mm respectively.
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