BradB111

Cause found! After years of suffering with this issue I have finally found a fix. It's ASUS Sonic Studio / Sonic Radar that is causing this. It injects a NahimicOSD.dll file into the process for some reason and this specifically causes it to crash when not opening on your primary display. As I had no use for Sonic Radar in my case I uninstalled it and the issue went away (no restart necessary). Opens and closes without a problem on any monitor now. Hope this helps!

I'm assuming this may not be possible?

Hello all, Hopefully this is something simple I'm missing. What I am trying to accomplish is use the G keys on my K100 as additional keys and not replacements of already existing keys. I initially thought to rebind G1-6 as F13-F18 as these keys don't offer any function in most (if not all) of the games I play so great I go to rebind G3 (F15) as map for example as it's right next to TAB so convenient. Game doesn't understand F15 as a key and this seems to be the same case in many games. In fact I've only been able to use the extended function keys in discord and CoD:MW (only F13-F15 though). So with many games not supporting F13-F24 I have hit a brick wall. I don't want to rebind them to existing keys e.g.: I,O,P,J,K,L as that would mean double checking each game doesn't already have a binding for such a key e.g. BF4 I remember uses JKL for different text chat channels. I also don't want to be manually creating a profile for every single game to replicate existing keybinds e.g. using the above example mapping 'M' to G3 for opening a map Ideally I would be looking to use the 'G' Keys as keys that are understood by all games but don't already feature on the Keyboard, a bit like how pretty much all games would understand 'Mouse4' and 'Mouse5' as they are additional buttons that exist but generally not already in use by the game. It is a UK layout of this helps / changes anything, I will include an image below. Any help would be much appreciated.

It's a great case and easy to work with, sounds good.

It was looking likely that's how I needed to do it yeah, once I drain the res out past the lower port I can attach a length of flexi at that point anyway. There's always a way.

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Thank you very much! No way to drain the loop.... Yet, Waiting for the new drain port from EK that has a push / pull locking system: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-torque-drain-valve-black Once that arrives I'll have to drain the loop in a bit more of a creative way (yet to work that one out) and then that can go on the spare outlet at the bottom of the EK FLT240 res on the bottom left. Then it will be a case of attaching some flexi tube with a fitting onto the drain port fitting, pulling the locking system and then opening the fill port at the top of the res to let the air in and most of the loop should drain right out through added drain port if it all goes smoothly.

Thank you. 2nd hardline build 2nd Watercooling build Maybe 8th or so build but been messing around with computers for as long as I can remember. This is my first watercooling / hardline build from approx 5 years ago. (6700K 980Ti SLI):

Oh I will update the post, there are no colours in the loop, That is EK Mystic Fog, reflects the system RGB Amazingly. It is a translucent white with no lights on. And yes, all hardline except a hidden soft tube that runs behind the mobo tray.

Specs: CPU - AMD 5950X GPU - EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra RAM - 2x Corsair vengeance Pro RGB 16GB (@ 3800MHZ C18) Mobo - ASUS Crosshair VIII Impact Case - Lian Li O11D Mini Fans - Corsair QL120 PSU - Corsair SF750 Cooling - All EK Blocks and Components (Except Fittings): -CPU Block - EK Velocity D-RGB Nickel + Acetal -GPU Block - EK Quantum Vector FTW3 RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal -Radiators - 2x EK PE360 -Reservoir - EK FLT240 -Fittings - Primochill Revolver -Coolant - EK Mystic Fog All EK Block / Res RGB modified with MX2.54 Dupont connector for use with Corsairs ecosystem meaning everything controlled via iCue Cable combs are my own 3D Prints, unfortunately 32 pin combs don't exist and the way the 8 pin EPS is positioned on this board it seemed too perfect. So, 18 months from idea to reality, I really wanted to try and use 45deg bends as I'd not seen many tubing runs use anything other than a 90deg bend and after trying it I completely understand why. I originally started planning this as I finally took the plunge on an ultrawide and settled on the 38GN950 but my old 980Ti just wasn't cutting it and my 6700k was beginning to show it's age also so what better time to upgrade. Unfortunately that's when the "human malware" came into play seemed to make securing the parts almost a second job. As soon as I'd seen the case at CES 2020 I knew it was perfect for what I sketched up in Fusion 360 however it was only 2 weeks ago I received it. The delays on components have been crazy as I'm sure you're all aware. Anyway, fast forward to today and here I am, One finished build. In any case (pun intended) if you are looking for a small (ish) form factor case I'd highly recommend the O11D Mini, It's incredible. Questions welcome.

Add another person to your list https://imgur.com/kUU6lX4 https://imgur.com/uEoH1Qw https://imgur.com/DT72uuY taken from an FB video but I have had some success. Red areas fortunately were un-populated, Blue components all functioning fine, Just the traces were the issue. FIXED: was dodgy traces. However. I did try to refine the repair somewhat as it was a little messy and there was a pop and some smoke. The Choke on the opposite side of the board has had it. Back to the drawing board but at least I know its fixable.

I work in CS also as part of my job. That response was dreadful and isn't at all an unreasonable request. The way I worded the main part of the request was plain and simple English: "I understand this is of course my fault, I'm wondering however if you could offer any advice? What does this area of the PCB achieve? I am happy to attempt a board repair if you are able to advise on the components required." Only one of those 3 points gained a response and that resulted in "Just buy a new one" effectively. An acceptable response would have been something along the lines of. "I am unable to provide any advice in terms or damage you are looking to repair at a component level, I am unable to pass on the required information in regards to the pcb areas function or the components in that area. Sorry I'm unable to help in this situation." But what they did was answer 2 questions I never even asked and just said replace it. Even so there are much much better ways to have responded. Maybe its different here in the UK?

No idea why I didn't think to include this previously. Thank you. EDIT: Wonder if the corrosion on the empty pads left of C622 are the cause... A Schematic would help so much here...

It's how it was put across. "just replace it" as opposed to "sorry our engineering department isn't prepared to share that information Sorry we could not help on this occasion" Just seems so rude. Had they told the truth which is "I'm not sure what it is you are actually asking and copy and pasting this template allows me to do the bare minimum to get paid at the end of the month, I also can't be bothered asking anyone higher up". It would have been a lot better, It may have even brought a smile to my face. I can also guarantee there are indeed other manufacturers that would go out of their way to help... I have in the past broken a plastic clip in my Corsair 900D during case modding. I emailed to ask for this clip to be sent and I advised I was more than happy to pay for it + shipping. They weren't able to send this part. They were however able to send a brand new 900D, and they did so free of charge.

Hello all, TLDR is that I have killed one of my my EVGA 980Ti SC+ (reference board) after a minor watercooling mishap and wondering if anyone would be able to help provide advice on a board repair. Or perhaps troubleshooting steps beyond the generic "have you tried another slot". Looking for how to properly test the pcb and determine what exact component needs to be replaced. (Further info Below) ------- Firstly this is my communication with EVGA: Hello, My 980Tis SC+ cards have been absolutely great since my purchase around the release date and have no issues in that regard, completely happy with the use I have got out of them so far. Unfortunately after a slight spill when clearing out the loops some fluid got in between the backplate and card and I hadn''t noticed. Completed the fluid flush and everything seemed fine, then all of a sudden the card stopped outputting a display signal. When using the second card the ''damaged'' card also doesn''t show in device manager when plugged in. Removing the card and waterblock there was some fluid on the card, See Image: https://imgur.com/a/IWDGRbZ I understand this is of course my fault, I''m wondering however if you could offer any advice? What does this area of the PCB achieve? I am happy to attempt a board repair if you are able to advise on the components required. Either way if this is fixable or not I will be looking to purchase the next gen xx80ti graphics card, EVGA of course. So not a big deal although of course if I''m able to revive this card that would be fantastic. Look forward to your reply. And this is their reply: Hi We are sorry to hear about your GPU issue. I do apologize but there are no user replaceable parts or do we provide any repair options. The best option will be to just replace it. Regards, EVGA I'm genuinely unsure as I'm to be offended by this response, I had not asked for user replaceable parts or a send in repair, to top it all off it ends with "just replace it". I'm baffled. Had I responded in such copy / paste fashion at my workplace I'd likely not have a job this time next week. It certainly is making me question whether I will stand by my claim of going EVGA with my next card. Anyway going via EVGA directly obviously seems to be a non-starter. What I do know about my issue: -This is the card, actually looks like there could have been fluid there long before this mishap. This is between pcb and backplate. https://imgur.com/a/IWDGRbZ -This is EVGAs spec sheet: https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=3cdfab4c-0eab-44b7-8f32-2a6780a37c4b (Reference design) -The slot on my Motherboard is completely fine. -The GPU outputs no video however I don't know how far through the board the power is getting. If any more photos or info is needed I'd be more than happy to provide it. Thanks.

Ok I'm pretty sure you've hit the nail on the head there @Radium_Angel. Played some MW2 spec ops for an hour, turned the pc off via shutdown and it wouldn't post. The same half on state I previously described. Switched the CPU power and 24 pin to run from a unbranded 300W PSU and it posts right away, tried it a few more times and success every time. Switched the CPU power and 24 pin back to the originals and it went back into that half on state again! Just goes to show a fresh brain always helps, thank you so much for you input. I'd never thought about the voltage being flaky or it wasn't able to supply enough amps at 12V but there you go. Replacement PSU coming tomorrow, downgraded to an RM850x, never used the smart stuff anyway on the RMi series and 850W should still be plenty. A little disappointed I don't have an excuse for a new build though. I'm looking at the 38GL950G Monitor and there is no way my current system will be able to drive that so a rebuild is round the corner anyway. Thanks once again.

Ok I have another PSU to test when I get home. Will keep you updated. EDIT: @Radium_Angel so, I get home and its working completely fine again, not sure if leaving the PSU power off all day has done the trick? will stress the system then see if it starts happening.

This sometimes happens when a UWP app is being rendered at the same time as a game across multiple monitors. This may be of some help? Wonder if its the videos that autoplay on facebook?

yeah I get that, but at 4.8 it seems to run happily and still hits the mark you'd expect, I think I got very lucky with my CPU as at the time there was a site selling '4.8GHz validated' 6700Ks at almost double the price, meanwhile I could get 4.9GHz with very little effort, 1.4V I think. Of course to be on the safe side I didn't run at those clocks outside of benchmarks etc.. In regards to physical damage I've checked everything except the socket itself (haven't had the time to drain, dismantle, rebuild etc.. quite yet). (profile pic is my PC) Hard to see how there could be any damage to the socket though considering the CPU has been in it from day 1? Anything's possible I suppose.

I suppose if all else fails I can try using a 4S Lipo I use for racing quads up to it. I could do with an excuse for an upgrade

I'll see if I can find one to borrow or rip out of an old system at work, even if its a 350W unbranded and I can get it to boot consistently I guess its a step forward. Its strange how it doesn't explain the first couple of instances of this happening, Block pressure etc... perhaps unrelated? EDIT: @Radium_Angel The PSU is spec'd as having multiple 12V rails, maybe a different socket on the PSU side for the CPU power may be worth a shot?

Ahh that's another thing I did try (stock clocks I'll add that too) also a result of a CMOS reset, sorry there's so much info its easy to miss the odd bit I guess. Shame I don't have another PSU to try. so you are saying it may not be able to deliver the full wattage at 12V? Its possible but i find it hard to believe as even after a 6 hour gaming session yesterday after I did get it to post it was seemingly completely fine.

Oh wow, no 1.36V now I will edit to clarify.

Hello all, So this one has been really bugging me despite my experience in PCs, for all those who fancy a challenge perhaps, Not at home at the moment but will provide as much detail as I can. Specs: CPU - 6700K @ 4.8GHz (completely Stable) GPUs - 980Ti (2x SLI) (Moderate OC) RAM - 16GB Dominator Platinum @ 2666Mhz Mobo - ASUS Z170 Deluxe PSU - Corsair RM1000i Cooling - Custom dual loop hardline loops - 2x 480 EK rads (the really thick ones, the 'XE' series I think?) - full cover EK blocks on the GPUs along with the Supremacy Evo for the CPU All items were purchased around their time of release so they are getting on a bit now. So, approximately a year ago I experienced a hard shutdown out of nowhere, everything just immediately lost power, monitors went black (but were still turned on), led strips lost power, fans stopped spinning, everything. Immediately i thought of overheating as it had all the same characteristics except one major factor, there was absolutely no throttling or slowdown of any kind leading up to this loss of power and had been running like this for a good number of years with no issues. I thought little of it, Turned the PC back on, adjusted the fan curves to be a tad more aggressive and continued to monitor temperatures. What was odd is before I adjusted the fan curves I was seeing maybe 60deg C under load which is nowhere close to causing this kind of power loss due to overheating. Anyway, I ignored this and put it down to one of those things we as PC enthusiasts just have to put up with as it continued to operate just fine after this event. I can rule out an unstable overclock as shutdowns aren't usually an instant loss of power and I can also get a stable 4.95 GHz although I'm pushing more voltage than i'm comfortable with 1.48v I think it was. Anyway, that was years ago when the parts were new, backed off the clocks to 4.8GHz and voltage to 1.36V and it has been fine until this. Fast forward 6 months and the same thing happened again this time the PC would not post, I can't remember the error code but I remember it relating to the CPU / RAM, ultimately the fix for that was reducing the tension of the CPU block so there was less pressure on the CPU which was very odd as the EK Supremecy EVO block requires tightening all the way until the thumbscrews bottom out which results in the correct tension on the socket so this means the CPU would only run with less than ideal pressure.This has been happening for the past 6 months maybe once a month where adjusting the pressure would cause it to boot and function normally. However I couldn't post anything in the forums for any advice as I couldn't manually reproduce the issue whatever I did. That is until last night, the PC shut off instantly like it had previously but this time rebooted and refused to post, and nothing I did previously worked and other general troubleshooting steps. The PC would only boot into in a very odd state where nothing except the LED strips and the PSU was powered on (fan spinning). Things to note: Error code / Q-code '00' (so no error code as such), No error beeps, no power to fans, no power to RAM (No LEDs) In my experience this is exactly what it can be like when the 4/8 pin CPU power plug is disconnected so out came the multimeter however all 4 positive pins were reading 12V when the PSU was running so that rules out the PSU (unfortunate as that's one of the cheapest components). Things I have tried that Do Not work: Reset CMOS, Unplug USB Devices, Adjusting CPU Block Tension, Reseating RAM. The ONLY thing that seems to solve this now is leaving the PC turned off (at the PSU) for approx 15 mins and then attempting to boot. However, as soon as the PC shuts down (via the normal windows shutdown procedure or otherwise) it will once again be stuck in this state detailed above if I attempt to boot again without doing another 15 min power cycle. In between me being able to actually use my PC I have updated the BIOS also removed all overclocks as an attempt to resolve the issue but no change. Wishful thinking I must admit. If anyone can shed any light on this it would be much appreciated. If any more info is needed I will try my best to provide it. I also plan to video this when I get home so I will post that when I can. Many thanks.

Thank you very much for the suggestion. There were some Driver updates, no significant changes removing these. Disabling Windows Defender (have no other AV) didn't make any difference also unfortunately. Funny you should mention Hardware utilisation as this is something I was slightly concerned about ever since i got into PCs ~10 years ago but something I'd just accepted as being normal (low utilisation). I have a heavily modified (for my use) version of a hardware monitoring Rainmeter skin running on my other monitors so I can look during gameplay: https://www.deviantart.com/abu46/art/mii-system-skin-2-206965499 This uses Afterburner monitoring as the source for all info (unlike default which only uses Afterburner for some info) so is spot on in terms of accuracy. (Tested this against other monitoring software) When playing most games the GPU utilisation looks fairly normal: fluctuation between ~60-100% depending on the scene etc.. (both in single GPU and SLI) RAM utilisation is fine too, pretty much exactly what you'd expect. However CPU utilisation is only at about ~20-40% in the majority of cases which I find very strange although I do know most games don't utilise all cores but I have every core broken out on my rainmeter skin and utilisation seems to be consistent across all cores. Due to the above I can only assume the GPU/s are the limiting factor. The only games where this doesn't seem to be the case is GTAV which has a fairly high CPU utilisation (approx 60%) and CS:GO which is usually at 20% CPU and 40% GPU. It's like my system has more to give but the game isn't asking for it? The twist on the whole thing however: this is the same when fps seems to be ok. The only thing I've noticed recently is the GPU clocks will go down to 1100 MHz for no apparent reason during gameplay which seems to be the base clock. They are the EVGA SC+: https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=3cdfab4c-0eab-44b7-8f32-2a6780a37c4b This is down from my overclock to approx 1470 MHz or my usual day to day overclock of roughly 1350MHz (no point going for benchmark numbers with these dinosaur GPUs any more ) I have looked into this previously and it seems to be throttling due to 'power limit' although it isn't even asking for its rated max and increasing power limit on afterburner to max doesn't change this. Not 100% sure but I believe this may be the same during the times I'm getting a 'normal' fps also. I also think this can't be the cause of a 50+ fps drop as I didn't get +50fps after the overclock haha. One thing I can rule out however is temperatures. everything is running at approx 60-70c under load: Custom twin water cooling loops, x2 480 rads (45mm thick if I remember correctly) with Corsair SP120s