Jump to content

BradB111

Member
  • Posts

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

BradB111's Achievements

  1. Cause found! After years of suffering with this issue I have finally found a fix. It's ASUS Sonic Studio / Sonic Radar that is causing this. It injects a NahimicOSD.dll file into the process for some reason and this specifically causes it to crash when not opening on your primary display. As I had no use for Sonic Radar in my case I uninstalled it and the issue went away (no restart necessary). Opens and closes without a problem on any monitor now. Hope this helps!
  2. I'm assuming this may not be possible?
  3. Hello all, Hopefully this is something simple I'm missing. What I am trying to accomplish is use the G keys on my K100 as additional keys and not replacements of already existing keys. I initially thought to rebind G1-6 as F13-F18 as these keys don't offer any function in most (if not all) of the games I play so great I go to rebind G3 (F15) as map for example as it's right next to TAB so convenient. Game doesn't understand F15 as a key and this seems to be the same case in many games. In fact I've only been able to use the extended function keys in discord and CoD:MW (only F13-F15 though). So with many games not supporting F13-F24 I have hit a brick wall. I don't want to rebind them to existing keys e.g.: I,O,P,J,K,L as that would mean double checking each game doesn't already have a binding for such a key e.g. BF4 I remember uses JKL for different text chat channels. I also don't want to be manually creating a profile for every single game to replicate existing keybinds e.g. using the above example mapping 'M' to G3 for opening a map Ideally I would be looking to use the 'G' Keys as keys that are understood by all games but don't already feature on the Keyboard, a bit like how pretty much all games would understand 'Mouse4' and 'Mouse5' as they are additional buttons that exist but generally not already in use by the game. It is a UK layout of this helps / changes anything, I will include an image below. Any help would be much appreciated.
  4. It's a great case and easy to work with, sounds good.
  5. It was looking likely that's how I needed to do it yeah, once I drain the res out past the lower port I can attach a length of flexi at that point anyway. There's always a way.
  6. Thank you very much! No way to drain the loop.... Yet, Waiting for the new drain port from EK that has a push / pull locking system: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-torque-drain-valve-black Once that arrives I'll have to drain the loop in a bit more of a creative way (yet to work that one out) and then that can go on the spare outlet at the bottom of the EK FLT240 res on the bottom left. Then it will be a case of attaching some flexi tube with a fitting onto the drain port fitting, pulling the locking system and then opening the fill port at the top of the res to let the air in and most of the loop should drain right out through added drain port if it all goes smoothly.
  7. Thank you. 2nd hardline build 2nd Watercooling build Maybe 8th or so build but been messing around with computers for as long as I can remember. This is my first watercooling / hardline build from approx 5 years ago. (6700K 980Ti SLI):
  8. Oh I will update the post, there are no colours in the loop, That is EK Mystic Fog, reflects the system RGB Amazingly. It is a translucent white with no lights on. And yes, all hardline except a hidden soft tube that runs behind the mobo tray.
  9. Specs: CPU - AMD 5950X GPU - EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra RAM - 2x Corsair vengeance Pro RGB 16GB (@ 3800MHZ C18) Mobo - ASUS Crosshair VIII Impact Case - Lian Li O11D Mini Fans - Corsair QL120 PSU - Corsair SF750 Cooling - All EK Blocks and Components (Except Fittings): -CPU Block - EK Velocity D-RGB Nickel + Acetal -GPU Block - EK Quantum Vector FTW3 RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal -Radiators - 2x EK PE360 -Reservoir - EK FLT240 -Fittings - Primochill Revolver -Coolant - EK Mystic Fog All EK Block / Res RGB modified with MX2.54 Dupont connector for use with Corsairs ecosystem meaning everything controlled via iCue Cable combs are my own 3D Prints, unfortunately 32 pin combs don't exist and the way the 8 pin EPS is positioned on this board it seemed too perfect. So, 18 months from idea to reality, I really wanted to try and use 45deg bends as I'd not seen many tubing runs use anything other than a 90deg bend and after trying it I completely understand why. I originally started planning this as I finally took the plunge on an ultrawide and settled on the 38GN950 but my old 980Ti just wasn't cutting it and my 6700k was beginning to show it's age also so what better time to upgrade. Unfortunately that's when the "human malware" came into play seemed to make securing the parts almost a second job. As soon as I'd seen the case at CES 2020 I knew it was perfect for what I sketched up in Fusion 360 however it was only 2 weeks ago I received it. The delays on components have been crazy as I'm sure you're all aware. Anyway, fast forward to today and here I am, One finished build. In any case (pun intended) if you are looking for a small (ish) form factor case I'd highly recommend the O11D Mini, It's incredible. Questions welcome.
  10. Add another person to your list https://imgur.com/kUU6lX4 https://imgur.com/uEoH1Qw https://imgur.com/DT72uuY taken from an FB video but I have had some success. Red areas fortunately were un-populated, Blue components all functioning fine, Just the traces were the issue. FIXED: was dodgy traces. However. I did try to refine the repair somewhat as it was a little messy and there was a pop and some smoke. The Choke on the opposite side of the board has had it. Back to the drawing board but at least I know its fixable.
  11. I work in CS also as part of my job. That response was dreadful and isn't at all an unreasonable request. The way I worded the main part of the request was plain and simple English: "I understand this is of course my fault, I'm wondering however if you could offer any advice? What does this area of the PCB achieve? I am happy to attempt a board repair if you are able to advise on the components required." Only one of those 3 points gained a response and that resulted in "Just buy a new one" effectively. An acceptable response would have been something along the lines of. "I am unable to provide any advice in terms or damage you are looking to repair at a component level, I am unable to pass on the required information in regards to the pcb areas function or the components in that area. Sorry I'm unable to help in this situation." But what they did was answer 2 questions I never even asked and just said replace it. Even so there are much much better ways to have responded. Maybe its different here in the UK?
  12. No idea why I didn't think to include this previously. Thank you. EDIT: Wonder if the corrosion on the empty pads left of C622 are the cause... A Schematic would help so much here...
  13. It's how it was put across. "just replace it" as opposed to "sorry our engineering department isn't prepared to share that information Sorry we could not help on this occasion" Just seems so rude. Had they told the truth which is "I'm not sure what it is you are actually asking and copy and pasting this template allows me to do the bare minimum to get paid at the end of the month, I also can't be bothered asking anyone higher up". It would have been a lot better, It may have even brought a smile to my face. I can also guarantee there are indeed other manufacturers that would go out of their way to help... I have in the past broken a plastic clip in my Corsair 900D during case modding. I emailed to ask for this clip to be sent and I advised I was more than happy to pay for it + shipping. They weren't able to send this part. They were however able to send a brand new 900D, and they did so free of charge.
  14. Hello all, TLDR is that I have killed one of my my EVGA 980Ti SC+ (reference board) after a minor watercooling mishap and wondering if anyone would be able to help provide advice on a board repair. Or perhaps troubleshooting steps beyond the generic "have you tried another slot". Looking for how to properly test the pcb and determine what exact component needs to be replaced. (Further info Below) ------- Firstly this is my communication with EVGA: Hello, My 980Tis SC+ cards have been absolutely great since my purchase around the release date and have no issues in that regard, completely happy with the use I have got out of them so far. Unfortunately after a slight spill when clearing out the loops some fluid got in between the backplate and card and I hadn''t noticed. Completed the fluid flush and everything seemed fine, then all of a sudden the card stopped outputting a display signal. When using the second card the ''damaged'' card also doesn''t show in device manager when plugged in. Removing the card and waterblock there was some fluid on the card, See Image: https://imgur.com/a/IWDGRbZ I understand this is of course my fault, I''m wondering however if you could offer any advice? What does this area of the PCB achieve? I am happy to attempt a board repair if you are able to advise on the components required. Either way if this is fixable or not I will be looking to purchase the next gen xx80ti graphics card, EVGA of course. So not a big deal although of course if I''m able to revive this card that would be fantastic. Look forward to your reply. And this is their reply: Hi We are sorry to hear about your GPU issue. I do apologize but there are no user replaceable parts or do we provide any repair options. The best option will be to just replace it. Regards, EVGA I'm genuinely unsure as I'm to be offended by this response, I had not asked for user replaceable parts or a send in repair, to top it all off it ends with "just replace it". I'm baffled. Had I responded in such copy / paste fashion at my workplace I'd likely not have a job this time next week. It certainly is making me question whether I will stand by my claim of going EVGA with my next card. Anyway going via EVGA directly obviously seems to be a non-starter. What I do know about my issue: -This is the card, actually looks like there could have been fluid there long before this mishap. This is between pcb and backplate. https://imgur.com/a/IWDGRbZ -This is EVGAs spec sheet: https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=3cdfab4c-0eab-44b7-8f32-2a6780a37c4b (Reference design) -The slot on my Motherboard is completely fine. -The GPU outputs no video however I don't know how far through the board the power is getting. If any more photos or info is needed I'd be more than happy to provide it. Thanks.
×