quan289

Did you plug in that 4-pin ATX12V connector - located top left of the CPU? Edit: Oh, that answer my question. Yeah, double check that.

The original Platinum XP and Gold XM were actually quad-rail units label as single rail. If the people on Guru3D forums had issues with high transient spike (unless I'm misunderstanding what you are saying), they likely could have fixed it by simply switching the PCIE cables around. And they both should handle modern, low-power saving methods the same, since both units have the 12V indy regulated, where the minor rail are bulk regulated from it. Nonetheless, I do agree with the swap

Here's another review I'd found @ Cybenetics : ftp://members.cybenetics.report/PDF_Reports/d/cybenetics_Gvk.pdf You might be familiar with Aris Mpitziopoulos' reviews at Tomshardware and TechPowerUp. Sadly, it doesn't have images of the internals but it does list the components.

Opps

If your system did draw ~700wDC or so (your PSU is rated for continuous load) to trip off the Over Power Protection of the power supply, the unit will stop supplying power to your system. Since it is restarting, then this isn't an issue with your system needing more than 550w, but rather a stability issue (assuming that it is cause by your PSU) cause by your PSU choice being not ideal for your rig (you should have gotten something along the likes of RM550x or TX550M). If a new power supply fixes your problem, it is because you got a better PSU. Yes, manufacturers will recommend certain numbers for a reason, and part of that will also include liability. They can't make recommendation based on the bare minimum. The recommendation they provide needs to factor a wide range of system configuration and power supplies. Power draw of a system with an i3 vs one with an i9. Or a PSU rated for 550w peak with a 12V rating of 30A or a 450w continuous rated PSU with a 12V @ 37.5A. Look at this GTX 780: https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=3b81d7e2-830d-43cc-8fee-d15f2ab43767 "600 Watt or greater power supply with a minimum of 42 Amp on the +12 volt rail." A high-end PSU like the Seasonic Prime Fanless 500w has that 12V rating. I'd power that on my Rosewill Capstone 450w for a few years before giving it away. One example where a system is being power by a PSU that's lower than what is recommended by the manufacturer, this Northwest Falcon Tiki had an i7-3770k OCed @ 4.6GHz and a GTX Titan power on a Silverstone ST45SF-G 450w. The Kepler-based GTX Titan is recommended to be power on a 600w by nvidia. Before someone says something, yes. Your mileage may varied depending on your overclocking goals: air, custom water-loop, or DICE or LN2.

It's one thing to like replaced the PSU fan out-of-warranty when it breaks, but why not get a PSU with a low noise, high-end fan in the first place, if low noise is a concern? Like the BeQuiet Dark Power Pro series. Just because the dBA rating at a particular RPM is lower than the one used in a PSU does not mean that that Noctua fan is a suitable replacement to be used in a high-static pressure environment like a PSU; especially one with that high of an output wattage.

Whoever sold you that the FSP Aurum based NEX750G pretty much broke even with their sale. 2-3 years ago, I've seen the PSU sold for ~$90 new. I've even seen go for cheaper on occassion I would return the unit and get a new and proper PSU for your build. If you need help with that, provide your system specs.

There can be useful information with reviews. Like let's say, within a single week you see a large spike of DOAs. If you noticed that maybe it's good to hold off of the purchase, as something may have happen during shipments (an entire pallet of PSUs somehow drop off a forklift, and they try to savage what they can sell, where some units that got damage gotten mixed in). Generally speaking though, you should take those reviews with a grain of salt. I've made a post recently about reviews.

Oh, wait. Isn't Paul Johnson @TheFPSReview the same reviewer from HardOCP? I thought the style of his reviews look familiar.

I haven't really look too deeply in PSU news for a long while. Other parts of my life had gotten me preoccupied. I'd only told you the platform and units that is based off of, so you can get a general idea of how reliable the GPU platform can be. Enermax were a reputable OEM and had made solid platform themselves, so they aren't new to the PSU industry like BitFenix, so I doubt they have done anything to the platform that had negative impact. But that just me putting trust in them. Anyways, if you want confirmation on the platform: https://www.thefpsreview.com/2019/08/07/enermax-revolution-df-850w-power-supply-review/ https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/01/23/bitfenix-whisper-m-750w-power-supply/5/

CWT GPU - LLC resonant half-bridge design, synchronous rectified 12V + DC-DC. It's the same platform used in the BitFenix Whisper M.

If you look at the rest of the list, you would see that each set of units are separated by a " - ". Enermax | Platimax (1200/1350W) / D.F =>750W - Revolution D.F - MaxRevo As you can see, the Revolution D.F is by itself, while the "D.F =>750w" is part of the Platimax line up. https://www.enermax.com/en/products/platimax-d.f.-750w The units that you say is part of "Tier C" is "Revolution Duo / X't / X't II". They are unrelated to the Revolution D.F.

As already stated, those power supplies are based on an archaic design when components draw primarily from the 5V rails, unlike today, where you can have a computer draw primarily on the 12V rail. That's why you see such a high 3.3V and 5V rating, low 12V rating, and the presence of the -5V rail which was removed from ATX specification in 2003/4. You SHOULD NOT used any of those PSUs on a modern day system.

By saying the OP likely have the early batch of the B3, are you also saying the reason why the OP B3 blew up is due to the OPP not being implemented properly? If so, I feel that there's another issue that needs to be address. What cause a system that draws around 225w-250wDC under synthetic load stock to have a load that should have trip the OPP which should be set around 715wDC+ (in this case more, since it wasn't properly configured)? It may not be a bad idea for the OP to do an one over (or two) at all of the components and PSU cables in case something had failed and shorted out.

If it melt at the plug, it is likely a loose connection. Either it wasn't plugged in all the way or outlet lost it tension from a lot of use overtime in which case you may want to have that replace.

No, you would not. Because modern multi-rail PSUs generate the 12V output from a single regulated source (I can't think of a consumer DIY PSU with two physical 12V source in recent years). Then it get split off by two or more shunts to monitor the current and report it to the IC. It's not a physical limitation that will "blow". Otherwise, the HP Omen with the i7 9900k and 2080ti that has a Delta platinum PSU with dual 45A 12V rails as well would have blow. https://www.amazon.com/HP-Computer-i9-9900K-Processor-875-1022/dp/B07QNZ8228 What it would do if it exceed the OCP of that 12V is merely shut off. Setting aside you could power that system with a quality high-end 550w (apparently, modern GPUs have high transients spikes that can trip the OCP of lower wattage units, so I would go for a min of quality 650w especially if you are going to overclock), that system isn't going to be drawn from a single 45A rail. It will draw from both. Unless you are insinuating that this is 2005, where manufacturers have the cables set up in a way that the CPU and GPU are power off of just one 45A rail, while the HDD, SSD, ODD, mobo, RAM etc. is from the other 45A. Because it would not. Manufacturers and system builders have dealt with mult-rail units long enough to know how to set cables up so their PSU will not trip the OCP prematurely. In fact they know how to set it up, that there have been a few occasion that a particular manufacturer label their multirail unit as single rail. These were some of Seasonic lineups. This was first noticed on the XFX variant, which hold true for their retail seasonic counterpart as well: http://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2012/01/23/xfx-pro-1250w-black-edition-power-supply/3/

Generally speaking, PSUs used by system builders like Dell, HP, etc. are decent. They are built to power a system it's design to reliably and fully. If you have a Dell office PC with a 305w PSU from Hipro / Chicony, then it will likely capable of supplying that 305w within ATX specs which is better than some of the enthusiast brands: that not only fail to do what they are rated for, they go out of specs for when they are working (Cooler Master Elite / v2 and Thermaltake Purepower / TR2 RX for example). Delta is a top tier OEM, and if this didn't change in the last few years I've been out of touch with tech news, they are the largest as well. In fact, they are the manufacturers of some "Tier A / 1" Antec PSUs on that tier list. Of course, I'm not saying you should expect the same for your particular unit, but rather, if HP decided to used Delta PSUs for a high-performance gaming rig (which I believe this particular model or its revision are found in their HP Omen Obelisk line-up that are configurable to have an i7-9900k+2080Ti) and I have that PSU on hand, there's a good chance that I would used it in my rig - provided that uses a standardized connectors.

Uh...I don't see what's this talk about it being dangerous. He is only replacing the power cord - the same cord he already touch when setting up the PC, taking the picture of the cord, etc. Suggesting him to get a new PSU requires him to open up his PC case and unplug various of connectors, as well as potential compatibility issues if he purchase a PSU for a Dell that may have proprietary connectors. OP, it seem the Philippines uses a NEMA5-15P plug as their standard. You only need to purchase a new NEMA5-15P to C13 power cord - like this: https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Computer-Power-Cord-NEMA5-15P/dp/B00BBDKX1Q

No, that white goo is used to hold the capacitor in place and not break off due vibration and such.

Sometimes the manufacturer will advertised this. You could also look at professional PSU reviews that test and disassemble the unit, where they will even show you the DC-DC module. One way that you are able to do it yourself, is by looking at the output chart on the PSU. Typically, if it used a DC-DC module for the generation of the minor rails, the 12V rated more or less the same as the rated wattage. In the case of the Seasonic Prime 1300w, without looking at the chart, I can guess it is rated for 108.33A or for 108A rounded down (1300 (w) / 12 (v) = 108.3333 (A)).

As That splitter is to take a single PSU and used it to power two motherboard. Not the adapter you are looking for. Anyways, the adapter you had shown with the thermaltake PSUs is what you want. Basically, the extra connector is ponytailing off of the PS-ON and ground pin, so when you press the power button, both PSU is turned on at the same time. The main thing you need to worry about is ensuring that the secondary PSU is an independent / DC-DC regulated PSU, as typically that is used mostly as a +12V supplementary PSU and will be put in a severe crossload scenario and cheap group-regulated PSU cannot handle that. Both the Seasonic Prime and Corsair RM are both DC-DC regulated, so you don't have to worry about this.

A few things to consider about reviews in general : Amazon often have a single listing of multiple of similar product, where the quality can range from poor, low-end to excellent high quality units, so the low rating could be for an entirely different product. Often times, if a product simply work, they would leave a positive review without any other consideration, when in reality, it's a piss-poor solution that can cause stability issue, reduce lifespan of components due to poor electrical performance, and may even be a fire hazard in the future. This is why you see a lot of Apevia, Coolmax, Diablotek, Raidmax (although they do have some decent units, but due to their reputation of cheating 80 Plus certification with a bait and switch, I'll never recommend them), etc. have an average of 4+ stars. On the other hand, for products that are more expensive, so if it works as they expect it should, they simply move on with their lives and not leave a review. But if they have a problem, you can expect them to leave a bad review 99% of the time. 20 bad reviews out of 46 may seem a lot (43.5%, and that also including bad reviews of the user themselves misrepresenting a product), but if they sold 4,000 units in that time frame, I would say that's pretty good for a 0.5% failure rate. Of course, legitimate problems does happen. These are mass-produced productions have dozens of components in it, where hundreds or thousands of units are being made in a day. There are bound to be some problems that got slip pass QC/QA (it can be be both obvious or not), and it doesn't mean it is a flaw product. That's why there's a warranty in place, and what is important here is how the company will treat you when such problem arises. Also, Dead On Arrivals (DOA), while can be extremely frustrating, is not an indicator of poor quality (although it can be an indicator of a poor packaging at the factory). Before it gets to your house, it must go through multiples of stops from the factory in mainland china to multiples of distributors, and then to storage warehouses of each e-tailer you buy it from. There are ample of opportunity for something to be drop and have something knocked loose despite passing QC. Anyways, if people here have recommend it contrary to Amazon reviews, I would like to believe they are basing it actual PSU reviews that that hook it to an ATE, oscilloscope, etc. to test the electrical performance, as well as disassemble it to look at the design, components, and soldering quality. If that is the case, you should make your purchase based on their recommendation rather than looking at amazon reviews.

If I look at the connectors closely, it look like they aren't fully seated. You could see a ~1/8" gap between on the 24-pin connector, and the latch on the Peripheral and SATA cable isn't latched behind the modular connector. If you have a connector that's not fully seated, it create resistance, when in turn can cause enough heat to burn the connector itself.

The Beta Bronze looks to be the same budget CWT GPM design as the Corsair VS. While the Gamma II seem to be based on the CWT GPS like in the Deepcool ST and Thermaltake Smart DPS G

I haven't been looking at PSUs for a long while, so I don't know how the sales are, atm; but a few years back, the two efficiency rating that tend to get sold the most were Bronze and Gold. You noticed a whine from them more because you see them more.