quan289

There are power supplies that goes far out of spec and continue to do so while delivering more. For example, this so-called 680w Echostar made by Leadman violated ATX specs on all rails at 99wDC load by more than double on the 12v and 6 times on the minor rails and continue to do so at 196wDC+ until inevitably failed at 277wDC. http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?6714-Echostar-quot-680W-quot-A-Special-Kind-of-Suck Just because something seem to be ok, doesn't mean that it isn't causing issues. Like stability issue in the short-term, or decreasing the lifespan of your components. Or it isn't a "crappy PSU", and you only assume that it is because the brand is unfamiliar to you and that something "feels like 50C" isn't an accurate way of measuring temperature. Then again, your recent thread you had posted did titled about "symptoms of a dying GPU"...

If any of you heard of Fortech or Segetop, then know that Colorful is their parent company. Fortech also had made some of Enermax Platimax D.F. lineup: https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/09/25/enermax-platimax-df-600w-power-supply/ This Colorful PSU does not have a fake 80 plus rating. You can easily verified this by looking it up on the the 80 Plus database on the Plug Load Solutions website. https://www.plugloadsolutions.com/80PlusPowerSuppliesDetail.aspx?id=1408&type=2 Despite me never been fond of tier list, those Enermax and Segetop units seem to be listed as Tier B or A on this site's Tier list. I'm not saying to treat this PSU that it is just as good, as there isn't any reviews on it as far as I know (but it seem to be based on a modern LLC + DC-DC design), but can we not go around calling something a bomb just because the name seem unfamiliar or odd. I'm pretty sure "Super Flower" seem like a funny looking name when a lot of people first saw it.

The NZXT NP-S650M = Seasonic SSR-650SGX from what I can tell. NZXT NP-S650M - https://www.kitguru.net/components/leo-waldock/nzxt-h1-review-mini-itx-done-right/ https://www.techpowerup.com/review/nzxt-h1-itx-chassis/4.html Seasonic SSR-650SGX - https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-focus-sgx-650w-sfx-l-psu,6045.html Here's a review of the platform it is based off of. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-focus-sgx-650w-sfx-l-psu,6045.html I say you be fine.

Modern desktop PSUs all have a single 12v source, where it get split off by two or more shunts to monitor the current and report it to the IC. Think of this as something similar to the fuse / circuit box inside of your home. It's a virtual limitation that prevent a set of cables that it is monitoring from drawing too much power; either cause by the user or a component that failed and shorted out (one that isn't detected by the short circuit protection or SCP).

Looking at the 12V rail, its secondary side seem to be based on an outdated group-regulated design. This mean that the load on the minor rails (typically 5V) can influence the voltage on the 12V rail and vice versa. This can yield poor voltage regulation across its load range (increase load on 5V can cause the 12V voltage to rise; maintain a low constant 5V with a large increase in load on the 12V load voltage drop sharply, while increasing 5V voltage - sometime out of ATX specs) and can make the VRMs on your motherboard and graphic card work harder as it needs to compensate for the large fluctuation in the voltages. Upon researching a bit, it seem to be based on the High Power Element Smart platform like the NZXT Hale82v2. Here's how it voltage regulation across its load range looks on the 700w model. Here's an example of what the voltages should look like for today standard. And that's a budget option Your PowerSpec is a low-end design based on an outdated double forward + group-regulated design that should not be used to power a modern 12V heavy system, especially with a high-end card like the RX 5700 XT.

Hm, maybe I'm just losing track of our conversation. lol I like using some of Antec high-end, Delta-build PSUs as an example (Antec Signature, CP, High Current Pro, etc). They were so overbuilt, perform so exceptionally well even after being overloaded beyond it is rated for, I personally would have absolutely no problem powering your system with a 650w that was built with that level of uncompromising quality, and I will know that it will not be breaking a sweat. Of course, that quality does come with a premium price tag. Quality power supplies should be built to output their rated wattage continuously at the temperature it is rated for, 24/7, within the entire duration of its warranty period, while high-end, premium unit are usually build with a large engineering overhead on top of that. At least that how Corsair have their PSU built / rated. Seasonic seem to rate their PSU differently now. Instead of a 50C operating temperature, many of them are rated at an operating range of 0-50C, where there's a 20% derate from 40C to 50C even with the Prime Ultra Titanium (why? o.0). If that's accurate and not a typo, your 750w is rated for 750w @ 40C or 600w derate @ 50C... So you can rest assure to know that your Corsair HX850 Platinum is an even more capable excellent, well-built power supply (which the professional reviews support this) that is capable of delivering 850wDC load continuously @ 50C, 24/7 for 10 year. Did I made you consider to power a second 2080Ti on that PSU? No? Oh well, I tried. XD Anyways, like what I had said before, I rather pick / recommend the highest quality PSU you are able to get first and then move up in wattage depending their goals which is often never included (running at stock, mild to moderate OC under air, heavy OC under a custom water loop, running GPGPU compute applications like cryptocurrency mining or F@H, etc) . Often enough, doing this will lead to people feeling a bit uncomfortable with the recommendation, despite I know how capable those PSU being recommended are. I do understand this, so I'm typically open to them buying a higher wattage of that model if they so choose. What bothers me personally is that they would spend like $1500 to $2000 USD on a high-end build, but unwilling to spend $20 more for the 750w model over the 550w just because it is...outside of their budget, so they went multiple steps back in term of quality to get something that's subpar...

Ankerson, it seem like you are defending yourself, even though I'm not refuting that your system is drawing 550wDC under gaming load...So I think you misunderstanding my post to you, but that's fine - not really important. If you are getting the NeoECO Gold lineup, I recommend the 550w / 750w variant as it is a better value esp. considering the platform it uses (Seasonic Focus Gold). It offer a longer 7 year warranty, modularity, and it look like it is using a better Hong Hua rifle bearing fan at the same price point (as opposed to the sleeve bearing found in the Andyson build Zen - which can explain the shorter warranty). Edit: nvm, it still sleeve bearing. https://www.newegg.com/antec-neoeco-550-gold-ne550g-550w/p/N82E16817371121 https://www.newegg.com/antec-neoeco-750-gold-ne750g-750w/p/N82E16817371123 Personally, I would go for the Fractal Design Ion+ 560P. It's a high-end, well performing/built unit that offer a 10 year warranty, full modularity, a more relaxed fan profile and a FDB fan: https://www.newegg.com/fractal-design-ion-fd-psu-ionp-560p-bk-560w/p/N82E16817580021 All of them can more than power your system comfortably. Pick whichever you like

I'm aware. I was strictly talking about the fan and noise levels I was saying that you are someone that would prefer to have their power supply operating below 70%. So if you had build a computer around the RM650 (as an example), you wouldn't find it loud, as the RM650 remain pretty quiet at and below 455w or 70% load. Unless you find the difference between 11dBA and 16dBA a large difference. Anyways, speaking of powering a system close to what is is rated for, I personally was using a Kingwin LZP-550 (Super Flower Golden King. A tweaked 650w Golden Green, underrated to 550w to achieve Platinum efficiency) to power an OCed system with two 680 in SLI and a 3770K for 5 years. Power draw was around 450~500wDC under load. It was pretty quiet from what I had remember (A buddy of mine is noise sensitive and he never complain about it. I'd end up giving it to him). It isn't bad. It does have your basic sleeve bearing fan though. Since you are getting a higher wattage unit that's non-modular, you should note that you will be dealing with more excess cables which cumbersome to manage in a small case. If you want us to provide you potential alternative, it would be helpful to provide a budget for the PSU, links to stores you are buying from, and the components that it will be powering.

To clarify, I meant updated (maybe it be more correct to say the newer revision) from the original and first 2013 RM series (mainstream unit) - not the RMx (high-end unit). Which interestingly enough, the original also had the better NR135L fan.

I'm personally not noise sensitive. I've basically slept next to a window AC that's like 3 feet away for a good decade or so. On top of that, in the past two years or so, I've been a welder doing barge repairs and the fume extractor there is so fucking loud that it can drowned out any music I'm listening even if I set it at max volume. Here what it sound like in the attach audio. Voice 001_sd.m4a Now imagine having two of them, while welding in the tank for 8 hours. LOL So I can't relate to people who keep complaining about noises on many of these power supplies, as those noises are typically constant for the most part. I do dislike intermittent / pulsating type of noise, though which reminds me of another potential issue with getting a higher wattage unit without proper research. Some people often get a larger PSU to make it stay in fanless mode under load (again depending on the unit, this isn't always the case). I've helped a few people who had done this in the past, where once it hit summertime, the fan would intermittently go on and off...0 to 850RPM. FDB fan are more stressed at startup because in order for the bearing to spin freely, it needs to circulate and build up oil pressure. Having it turn on/off multiple times in a span of a minute like what had happen to them can cause premature fan failure. So when buying a PSU, make sure your system under load isn't around the passive/active threshold. Yeah, the update RM does indeed use a lower quality fan to reduce which is a little louder (I would say it comparable at lower-mid loads, but it is a little louder at high loads). Quite honestly, if you were to power a system with a RM650, I feel you would be find it quite quiet as you not one to put it at that sort of load.

The thing with dual PSU setup is that you want to have two independent regulated PSU (dual mag amp design or a PSU with DC-DC). This is because by using one PSU as a supplementary 12V unit, you are putting it in a severe crossload scenario, which can cause the voltages to behave erratically and even go out of specs. In your case, it would be the case and as such, I would recommend buying a proper, quality PSU.

Depending on the PSU, it can potentially be louder. Higher wattage units will produce more heat at full load, so it may need a more powerful, higher RPM fan to cool it effectively at that load. This in turn cause the startup voltage to be higher and will spin at a higher RPM at low loads as well. An example of this would be the EVGA Supernova 650 G2 and 850 G2. They both uses a Globe 2BB fan, but the 850 model had a high-speed model and had operated louder throughout. Buyers often try to get a higher wattage units and sacrifice quality for it. I've seen someone went from buying an high-end, high quality Corsair RM550x to buying a more budget oriented EVGA NEX750G, which offer subpar electrical performance due to its inherit design and is quite loud under load. In my opinion, pick the highest quality PSU you are able to get that will power your system comfortably and hold on to it. If you want get a higher wattage unit, then maintain that quality (RM550x to 750w RMx, Fractal Design Ion+, BitFenix Whisper M, SF Leadex, EVGA G3, Seasonic Focus GX, etc) and expect to expand your budget for that (unless you got lucky and got an Corsair RM650x for cheaper than the 550w model like me).

Can't listen to the audio, atm. But 2BB fans are susceptible to bearing noises at low RPMs, where the metal ball bearings are bouncing off each other and making a distinct clicking sounds. Since you are experiencing this under no load, this is likely what you are hearing.

Seasonic, like many other manufacturer, has a wide range of product targeting different price segments. Each segment can varied in quality, because of that, you recommend a PSU by an unit by unit basis based on budget point that had been set. Yes, Seasonic PSUs can be reliable, but they aren't the only option and often time you may be able to find something better for your money.

Your question pertains to the same power supply, and its capability as the other thread. It would have been best to keep them in the same thread, so they know what you are looking to do with this PSU and that is to power a 3070. The S/M12II-B / Evo 380/420/520/620 models are group-regulated. These designs are inherently yield worse voltage regulation across it load range than it DC-DC / independent regulated counterparts, especially in crossload scenarios, as the load one rail can influence the voltage of another (in this case, the 12V and 5V). If you are planning to get a modern, high-end GPU for $500 or so, I think you should consider spending a little more for a modern, high-end PSU as well, rather than continue to use an outdated, budget unit

While it may work, I would recommend investing in a quality psu with dc-dc, rather than using a psu based in an outdated group regulated design

The HP ProDesk 600 SFF has a proprietary 12V only 240w Platinum PSU manufactured by Delta. You can't simply take a standard ATX power supply and plug it into your HP motherboard and expect it to work. You would need an adapter, and even you find one (or make one), there's an issue of form factor. Can you find one that fit in that case? Or you going to buy a new case as well? You will be putting so much into making a system from 2014 to work, I would just build another computer. If you are looking to upgrade that HP, I think your best bet would just get a low-profile GPU that does not need to be power by a 6-pin PCIE cable but just the 75w PCIE slot. Something like the GTX 1650 for example (assuming that your HP can support a 167mm card) : https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1650-gv-n1656oc-4gl/p/N82E16814932298

The TT Hamburg and NeoEco aren't good. If the Chieftec GDP was your only option, it wouldn't have been a bad purchase . It's based on the same CWT GPN platform as the Cooler Master GM series but not full AC input range. However, I would get the Seasonic S12III in this case. FSP Hydro GD lookes like an updated Raider II unit to gold, so it shouldn't be a bad budget option either but that only based on my observation. I haven't gotten back into this long enough to see any professional reviews. The PSU listed seem to have range from €45 to €60. See if you could get the BeQuiet PurePower II 500w. They are often well-priced in that budget range in the EU. https://geizhals.eu/be-quiet-pure-power-11-500w-atx-2-4-bn293-a1910215.html?hloc=at&hloc=de&hloc=eu&hloc=pl&hloc=uk The BQ PP11 is more efficient, has a better fan, and more relax fan profile which makes it quieter overall.

In that case, I would get something better. If you want help to find something, can you provide a budget and links to stores you are able to buy from?

Edit: Opps, hold up I got confused with the wrong unit... Yeah, it's a budget HEC unit with DC-DC. Based on the same platform as the Cougar LX. It would work for your system. Have you purchase already?

They both are high-quality units. The BQ SP11 doesn't put much focus on electrical performance like the FD Ion+ (still perform well though), but it put lot of focus on low-noise with their relax fan profile and the quality of their fans as you would expect from a company like BQ. It's also multi-rail unit, so it has that extra layer of protection. The Ion+ does, however, offer better electrical performance, a 10 year warranty, better connector options (4 PCIE connectors; although the BQ does have longer cables - making it possibly easier to route in larger cases) and still very quiet operation.

BeQuiet Straight Power 11 Platinum 550w https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1511228/be-quiet-straight-power-11-platinum-550w.html Fractal Design ION+ 560W Platinum: https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1442126/fractal-design-ion+-560w-platinum.html

The CoolerMaster V700 was a good, high-end Seasonic KM3 unit with a Protechnic FDB fan, so it isn't something I would call cheaply made. I'd say you got unlucky. But since you start having issues with it within 5 years, have you try contacting CoolerMaster? the V700 has a 5 year warranty.

Yeah, I would go with that. It's more than plenty for your setup and should be very quite at your load range as well.

Looks to be an CWT GPM unit with an updated DC-DC secondary. It would be fine for your system. If you haven't bought it already, providing a budget and e-tailers you can buy from can help others see if that's the best option you can get.