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quan289

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Posts posted by quan289

  1. You would be quite surprised then. There have been few occasion in the past an individual would disregard any valuable feedback and went with a product that they ended up regretting. Two of them was someone who blew $2000+ on a laptop that was not suited for their needs, where they end up selling at a major lost a few months later. Let's not forget there are people who made a purchase, asked whether or not their purchase was good, and ended up yelling at people because it wasn't the answer they had wanted...

     

    I would have thought that me being able to identify the manufacturer / platform of an unit and the price point of each of them shows that I'm somewhat familiar of the Australian market, that I'm able to dictate a product's value - includes units other brands that are based on the same platform as the Seasonic Focus Gold I had mentioned.

     

    It's one thing to say that it is ideal to recommend a product based on an unit by unit basis, rather a general brand recommendation (as the latter for some reason have a tendency cause people to assume that as along as it's that brand, any of their product is ok to use). It's another thing to tell me to analyzed his DC power draw at various of operating loads, at various time of the day, find the ideal efficiency range of his system, calculate his AC power draw, and finally used those figure to calculate electricity bill. It's like you took what I'd said and took it to the extreme.

     

    Anyways, since you are unfamiliar with the AU market and don't have a specific unit to recommend, there's no point continuing this.

    ____

     

    @FEAR_malik If you want to look at other options, feel free to ask. Here's another price aggregator that you can used. https://www.staticice.com.au/index.html

    When helping others from the AU, I find that it give me more results that PCPartPicker may have missed (of course, there are times that PCPP caught a good deal that StaticICE didn't, so it's best to used both.

  2. 1 hour ago, heimdali said:

    Ok, if you want to spend a couple days or weeks on it to do the full research for the OP not only considering all PSUs that are being or were manufactured and would deliver sufficient power but also figure out what is locally and by ordering and via sites like ebay and craigslist or the local equivalent available to him, go ahead and do it for him.

     

    The OP didn't say how much he wants to spend on a PSU.  He suggests 80+ Gold models rather than more efficient models.  Have you researched how much he pays for electricity and all other relevant factors and done the math to figure out if he should rather go for more efficient models or not?

     

    Obviously there are lots of different PSUs that have different TCOs.  The OP can always check out Seasonics web site or the info about other manufacturers to see which models they make and figure out what they cost, and he knows best what he likes.  Maybe he wants to be environmentally friendly and becoming aware of more power efficient models could be important for him even if the TCO may be higher --- or not.  Or perhaps he doesn't like modular PSUs, etc..

     

    I'm just not doing his homework for him.  I only said I'd buy Seasonic.  It is a manufacturer that's worthwhile to consider and it's up to him to do that or not.

     

    Hmm, I was just replying to your not understanding what he meant by model>brand, which the main point was : "Most company have a wide range of products targeted at different segments, at different price point, and varying quality." That knowledge of an unit's quality isn't something you going to get simply by looking at the manufacturer's website. You need to either have prior knowledge or have to do research (which I did imply that there had been reported issues with even Seasonic PSUs in the past - which may or may not had been fix). Even if they do research, it doesn't mean much if they don't understand it which is more than likely why they are here.

     

    Unless what they are doing / getting is bad, I would advised him based on what they had already given me. He asked about two specific unit. I don't need to do weeks of research when he is talking about a CWT GPS based PSU (Deepcool DQ-ST) and HighPower 810 based PSU (InWin PB), that are both gold units at the ~$120 AUD price point, where a 650w Seasonic gold unit is the Focus Gold seem to be priced at ~$155 AUD - making it a poor value in comparison to the InWin PB. As well as the Seasonic S12III 650 is not an option either, as it's a budget option that's bronze rated. That wasn't even one minute...let alone days or weeks.

     

     

  3. 33 minutes ago, heimdali said:

    I'm not sure what you mean by 1.

     

    Most company have a wide range of products targeted at different segments, at different price point, and varying quality. Making a blanket statement like "get a seasonic" without looking at his entire options may end up causing the person who you are helping to get a budget line up from Seasonic, when they could have gotten a high-end option from another company. That's why it is best to recommend a specific model. Also, depending on the region, prices can greatly differ, where certain brands are price much higher than other competitors. There was this one time I was able to recommend a Super Flower build Sentey Golden Steel 650w for the same price as a Seasonic M12II-B 620w in Argentina or Brazil and the Sentey was a VASTLY superior unit (LLC+DC-DC vs double forward+group regulation design: the former being superior).

     

    33 minutes ago, heimdali said:

    Can you show that PSUs from Seasonic are bad?

    While I could make a few example, that would just cause unneeded FUD toward the company. They do typically sell reliable power supplies. So do other manufacturers like Delta, CWT, HighPower, ATNG, FSP, Flextronic, SuperFlower, etc.

  4. 20 minutes ago, highrusher said:

    yea thats like 80€ isnt that too much for a power supply? Idk anything about these things so Im probably wrong

    Pricing and availability can differ depending on the region. What may seem like a bad deal for me may be an excellent deal for you. The only reason why I picked that one is because the non-modular CX450 only has one 6+2 pin connector but looking at the price again, you are right. That PSU seem to be rather expensive. You could get the RM550x for that price which is a superior high-end unit: https://www.olx.ba/artikal/35310282/corsair-550w-rmx-series-rm550x-atx-140mm/

     

    A more affordable option with two PEG connector for your GPU could be the Seasonic S12III 550w: https://www.olx.ba/artikal/39395822/seasonic-s12-iii-550w/

     

    And no, the MS 500 PSU is bad.

  5. 30 minutes ago, highrusher said:

    yea I am from bosnia Im not sure if you will have a clue how to use this site cuz its in bosnian but you can try olx.ba the higher the number is the higher the price is the currency is BAM

    Don't worry. I've navigated through sites that were in Japanese, Chinese, Hebrew, etc. While it being in a foreign language does make it somewhat difficult, the general website layout doesn't change too much.

     

    Anyways, a quality 450w (which your Powerline VP-430 is not) is capable of powering a system with an FX6300 and GTX9800+. I'm assuming you are on a tight budget if you are getting a 12 year old card, so is the Corsair CX450M is in your price range @ 162 BAM?

    https://www.olx.ba/artikal/37350800/corsair-cx-series-cx450m-450w/

     

     

  6. It's based on an archaic design where system power draw were more drawn from the 5V rail as opposed to 12V like modern day system. This is evident by the presence of the -5V rail which was removed from ATX specification in 2003/4.

     

    To provide you a recommendation, a budget and links to site you are able to buy from would be helpful.

  7. In a multi-PSU setup, the supplementary PSU are typically put in a severe crossload scenario (high 12V load and no load on the minor rails), where the voltage regulation can behave erractically. Because of that, you simply don't want to grab multiples of random 500w PSUs. You want to look for a power supply that's independently regulated via dual mag amp or uses DC-DC for the minor rails, which a lot of your budget options starts at the ~$60 price point.

     

    Anyways, you could simply buy a modular supply, whose modular board made the 6+2 pin PEG connector and 4+4 CPU connector interchangeable and buy another set of cables separately.

     

    For example, the Corsair RM850x:

    https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-rmx-series-850w-atx12v-2-4-eps12v-2-92-80-plus-gold-modular-power-supply-black/6229601.p?skuId=6229601

    https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Type-4-Sleeved-black-8-pin-(4%2B4)-ATX12V-EPS12V-Cable%2C-compatible-with-all-CORSAIR-type-4-pin-out-PSU/p/CP-8920141

     

    If you look at the modular ports, you can potentially put five PEG connectors, five CPU connectors, or a mixed of both. The RM850x has two already.

  8. 5 hours ago, BetteBalterZen said:

    Hello all

    Is it correctly understood that if my system draws around 650w and I have a 1200w PSU, the PSU fan might not even start spinning or if it does, it's very low in RPM which means low to no noise under load? 

     

    That depends on the PSU. Some PSUs can get louder if you were to get a higher wattage unit, because they will generate more heat at full load, requiring a more powerful fan, and thus have a higher startup voltage where the fan will spin up at a higher RPM at low loads. A good example of this is the EVGA Supernova 550 G3 and 850 G3. Interestingly enough, going with a higher wattage unit didn't change when the PSU was in passive mode (fanless) @ 30C but when it spun up, the 550w unit not only stayed ~10dBA quieter, it was quieter at almost its ENTIRE load range than the 850w.

     

    If low noise is a priority, then it would be in your best interest to look for PSUs with a high quality, quiet fan and a relax fan profile in the first place. Also, while getting a higher wattage unit may cause the passive mode threshold to extend to a higher load, be wary of having your load at that threshold where it switches to active mode. Either have it stay off or stay on - not on/off several times in a single gaming session. Having it turn on and off intermittently can be distracting, as well as can causing unnecessary wear on certain bearings and may decrease it lifespan. During the initial startup, a FDB will have the most stress, as it needs to spin up and circulate the oil, where the oil pressure is build up to stabilized the bearing and have it spin freely.

  9. 3 minutes ago, NikitaSch said:

    thanks for the info but, what about the m12II 520w psu from seasonic.Shoul i go for s12iii 550w or m12ii 520w , i have heard that m12ii is way better than s12iii

    The M12II-B Evo 380/420/520/620 are based on an old double forward, group-regulated design and lack some protection set, while the S12III is based on a LLC + dual mag amp design which is better suited for modern day system. It would be dumb of Seasonic to degrade when going from S12II / M12II-B to S12III.

  10. 23 minutes ago, pote2639 said:

    I bought the DQ-850M and it was absolute shite

     

    Now whenever I removed my case the computer just randomly turning itself off. And sometimes I can't even power up my computer! I had to unplug the thing and replug again. Tried multiple AC cables and it's the same.

     

    What do you mean "whenever I removed my case"? Moved? If your PC shuts off and you have to unplug and plug it back in in order to turned it back on, that would mean a protection in the PSU is detecting a problem and cutting power off to your system. The slight movement may have cause something to short out

  11. 26 minutes ago, Ankerson said:

    Could be the Tier D vers.... There are two different ones.... Could explain the pricing...

    Well, that's annoying.

    Amazon clearly shows the Seasonic Focus Gold internal and the EAG Pro logo in the images. Also, description provide the same topology that the Seasonic uses (Full Bridge, LLC Resonant and synchronous rectified 12V + DC-DC) and warranty / RMA support is 7 years. As opposed to the older, EA*50G Pro units that's were based on the FSP Aurum design (ACRF + Group) with 3 years.

     

    I would like to believe that this is Seasonic variant, but apparently, some retailer in India were getting the lower quality unit despite using images and the description from the former (although, it seem they listed the correct 3 year warranty from them)

     

     

  12. 54 minutes ago, GamerBlake said:

    Oh ok thanks! I think 10 years or lifetime is the warranty period so does that mean if it does in 10 years I can just send it in for another? 😳 

    It's 10 years, and if you experience any problems with the RMx within that 10 years period, you can have it sent in for warranty.

     

    One thing I feel like I should point out though. Be wary of products that has lifetime warranty and always look at the terms and conditions of the warranty. You would like to think that a "lifetime" warranty is better than a 10 or 12 year warranty, but in actuality, it's not as "lifetime" is a rather ambiguous term. Does it mean the lifetime of the owner, the product, the series, etc? If a product had been discontinued within 2 years, then does that mean the life of that product is 2 years and thus it's "lifetime" warranty has ended.

     

     

  13. How regularly you will need to replace it depends on the quality of the power supply and its usage. Typically, a power supply should be able to output its rated wattage 24/7 continuously at its rated operating temperature for the span of its warranty. In the case of your Corsair, it should be able to do 850w continuously at 50C ambient temperature for 10 years, and it should do so while staying in ATX specification.

  14. 33 minutes ago, Praesi said:

    None of my PSU´s as long i remember made any kind of noise when i turned the PC off.

    Not the Gaming PC´s, not the Workstations. So if this is "normal", its actual new to me.

    Since the +5VSB rail is live when the PC is off, electricity is still passing through the windings in the PSU like the PFC coil and the 5VSB transformer. When electricity passes through them, it will vibrate - sometimes at an audible frequency which can come and go depending on the load; e.g. in this case, having multiples of USB devices plugged in. One unit can be very loud and can be heard 5 feet away, where another unit of the same model can be heard only if you press your ears against the PSU with minimal background noise (like the OP). And of course, you may not hear anything at all because it out of the frequency range that humans can hear.

  15. 20 minutes ago, Ashino said:

    Kinda feels like a waste just going from an 850w psu that still works and buying another 850w psu.

     

    3 minutes ago, Ashino said:

    You went from using a decent mainstream unit from it's time to an excellent, high-end unit of today. That's an improvement, not a waste.

  16. 2 minutes ago, RhymeGG said:

    I'm not into PSU's enough to know what that is, Lol. What is a 'you put a modern, independent regulated PSU via DC-DC or dual mag amp when powering a high-end, 12V heavy gaming rig.'

    Group-regulation and independent regulation is the method of which the voltage rails (12V, 5V, 3.3V) are generated. The Elite V3 is a poor, low-end PSU that's group regulated (setting aside the Elite lineup have a history of being rated higher than what it can actually output, using low quality components, offer poor electrical performance, and that the design of the elite may cause it to exhibit very bad coil whine with a high-end setup). What this mean is that the 12V rail and 5V rail are regulated together and any load on the one rail can affect the voltages of the other. Increase the load on the 5V, the voltages of the 12V will increase. Put a load on 12V, the 5V voltage will increase. Put a heavy load on the 12V and maintain a relatively constant, low 5V load (like a modern, high-end gaming computer), the 12V voltage will drop sharply.

     

    Independent regulation mean that each of the voltage is regulated separately and typically will not influence one another. DC-DC / Buck converter and Dual Mag-amp are two different ways to achieve this.

     

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