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ShikuTeshi

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About ShikuTeshi

  • Birthday Dec 13, 1996

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    ShikuTeshi #6343
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 6700K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Maximus VIII Hero
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance 16x2GB 2133MHz
  • GPU
    Asus Strix GTX 1080
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define S
  • Storage
    1TB SSD + 3TB HDD + 3TB HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850x
  • Display(s)
    Acer 1080p + Some 1680x1050 Monitor
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15S CPU Cooler + 3 Noctua Front Intakes and 2 Noctua Outtakes (rear and gpu)
  • Keyboard
    Saitek Eclipse II (Will buy a Ducky 2020 Keyboard Year of the Rat)
  • Mouse
    Corsair KATAR
  • Sound
    Cyber Acoustics CA-3602FFP Speakers + Sony MDRXB50AP Earbuds with Neewer Microphone
  • Operating System
    WIndows 10 Home 64-bit

Recent Profile Visitors

1,004 profile views
  1. I think it's safe to say that this has been resolved. Taking a look at Windows's 'Event Viewer' after a crash shows a lot of warnings. All of which are along the lines of... "The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID" followed by a registry key. So I proceeded to find those registry entries and change their permissions to full control. Afterwards I opened 'Component Services' and it came to me saying some program wasn't being logged/tracked, something along those lines, and I told it to proceed doing so. Since then I haven't experienced a crash in the longest play session being 4 hours. Usually it's guaranteed to crash before 3 hours. I'm still getting those warnings in the Event Viewer but at least it hasn't resulted in a crash.
  2. Ryzen 5950X RTX 3090 The two games I play right now running DX12 are Path of Exile (optionally if I select the render engine) and Halo Infinite (which is the only render engine). Both of these games will run fine for an unknown amount of time before eventually freezing. For a few seconds after it freezes, I can still tab out and interact with my computer on another monitor before the PC eventually becomes unresponsive. The odd thing is that even though it seems to have completely stalled, audio is still running just fine, and it seems like the PC is running 'normally' except it's like it suddenly decided to just stop pushing new frames to the monitor. It seems to strictly be GPU related since it isn't a BSoD and technically things are still interactable. Right now I'm doing a DDU clean driver install and finding no reported issues with Nvidia Drivers 516.94 in relation to DirectX12. I'll also be doing a memtest86 overnight just in case since I have had a dimm die and needed to get replaced in the past. But I haven't discovered a clear and cut solution to this problem and am still searching to try to find something. Help is appreciated.
  3. Because at 300-400 watts, this is basically mandatory unless you like the Summer heat. For context I own an RTX 3090 (thanks to LTT during when they were selling GPU's) and everyone talks about how hot it gets. Though nobody really talked about where the heat goes. Obviously outside the system and into your room at roughly 115F / 46C under full load. I wasn't going to be running the A/C to combat the heat of this so the only realistic way to deal with it was to move it somewhere else. And that's where the idea for this contraption came in. I'm using 'heavy duty' cardboard to try to insulate the heat since I don't want it to radiate too much. Connected a 6' duct with an in-line fan and backdraft damper and am venting it out my window that has a portable A/C window panel attached to it. There's also a bug screen sandwiched at the end to prevent some insects from trying to crawl their way in. The exact shopping list apart from the super glue, tape, and duct tape I used are... It's extremely efficient and could be even better if I put on the duct insulation I got but I don't have the tools to cut fiberglass at the moment.
  4. I've been looking around online for a good set of new audio wear that can provide rumbling bass without sacrificing too much of the other frequencies. At the moment the top two reoccurring choices are Sennheiser Momentum 3 and the Sony WH-1000XM4. They're both wireless headphones with an optional 3.5mm cable. But regardless of that they seem to depend on being powered on and using their on-board dac/amp to provide their intended sound profile (configured via an app) that's gotten them to their standings. Ideally I want strictly wired headphones but that's just me not wanting to forget to have to recharge these things. Though going off rtings test results, it seems I'm leaning more towards the Sony's. I've seen Skullcandy Crushers get thrown around as an option for bass headphones... I mean. They have a fun gimmick but they're pretty bad. At least from my experience from some years ago. Maybe they've had a lot of revisions. But I remember them being padded tin cans with a head vibrator slider. I used to use an ATH-M50x which has really accurate audio including accurate bass. But it has no bass... Like this thing doesn't rumble even the slightest vibration. It's completely flat. Otherwise perfect for sound-whoring in CS:GO. At this moment I wear Sony MDRXB55AP's. For some $30 earbuds meant for bass these are surprisingly good. The high's are the weakest point of these but they're not completely lost. I'm really happy with these. But the thing is that they're earbuds. I get the thumping in my ears but not in my head. (I'm one of those fools who rolls next to you on the streets and all you hear is bass coming from my car... sorry not sorry...) Which is why I'm looking around for some new headphones to replace the earbuds I'm already quite content with.
  5. Forgot I need to expand on this and get thermal paste suggestions as well. I imagine GPU's, especially a 3090, run much hotter than a CPU and would need to know of a paste that can be used in such a workload without drying out and cracking.
  6. I got a Strix 3090 from LTT (thanks for the system) and thought the GDDR6X temperatures would really only be high in very heavy VRAM workloads. I'm currently idling in a game with the GPU at <75c but the VRAM at 88c with HWinfo reporting that the card is in throttling mode. I'm personally uncomfortable with any of my components going over 75c so I'm now considering doing a thermal pad replacement. But that's one of the areas of tech I never took a look at so I have no clue what brands would perform well. I've seen varying results of people getting anywhere from 10-20c improvements. One user reported getting a 30c improvement. So far I have heard of Thermalright, Arctic, and Thermal grizzly being used for such a thing. I haven't seen any head to head comparisons (LTT video please?) but would probably like to know what's been used and what sort of decrease in temperature did it provide?
  7. I'd like to give an update. I love this LG 34GN850-B. Thanks to @Brok3n But who cares? for suggesting the LG that got me searching their products and @The_Vaccine for suggesting looking at Hardware Unboxed videos. I came across RTINGS afterwards and both sources gave the 34GN850-B their #1 in 1440p Ultrawides. It's a hefty price tag but I think it was well worth it. As expected the games I used to be able to run at ~80-110 FPS now run around ~60 but it's bearable due to variable refreshrate. But those games that have TAA make it pretty much impossible for me to notice any level of aliasing which makes me happy. It's also a cut lower than 4K so it would've performed worse if I had done with a 4K.
  8. I've never done something like this but I'm pretty sure there are internal USB hubs just for this purpose. Are these the ports you need? https://www.nzxt.com/products/internal-usb-hub
  9. I don't know about 2K but I was looking at 4K and an LG 27GN950-B for $800 looked really solid. But I instead opted to get (back order) an LG 34GN850-B 1440p Ultrawide after viewing Hardware Unboxed videos. I don't think I can leave the ultrawide experience. Hopefully I don't have to wait too long on it. I am a little concerned about both products getting reviews of bad units on arrival. But hopefully I can make an easy return if it goes bad.
  10. I'm getting rid of my MSI Optix MAG301CR monitor due to having really really bad dark color transitions that cause extreme smearing. I'm sure it's due to the VA panel in conjunction to the default overdriving of the display. It goes up to 200Hz but I reduced it to 120Hz in hopes of mitigating the effect but it is still horrendous. Thus I'm now looking for a really sharp looking IPS display. I'm a running a GTX 1080 but I have plans to get an RTX 3080 (ti?) whenever the gods allow me. But that puts me in a dilemma of do I get a 1440p or 4K display and run like ass until for some months until I get a GPU upgrade. Or do I stick with 1008p and run fine for now? I really want a 4K option since over time I've been noticing aliasing in games that just don't implement a good enough anti-aliasing option. But I'm open to anything under $1000 from Newegg or Amazon since I plan to finance through them if I end up going with an expensive option. The most important features are... 120Hz or more without any overdriving. I'd like the image to be as sharp with no noticeable smearing. (reading white text on a black background while scrolling/moving it around should be possible.) An IPS display since I like my colors. This was my reasoning for accepting a VA panel before since it boasted viewing angles and really good sRGB. Ultrawides are fine. I really enjoyed the MAG301CR in the applications it did well in. If it's curved then I'd like to keep it minimal. The MAG301CR was 1500R and I liked it quite a bit. At minimum I might go with a 1440p option. At best a 4K option. I'd also like some opinions on downscaled resolutions or increased windows scaling on a 4K display. I play some older games that don't scale past 1080p and am a little concerned of playing them on higher resolution displays. If either dropping the resolution of the monitor or increasing the UI scaling would work well enough to keep playing such games without much issue?
  11. I've taken a look at it and it was almost it. My problem is that on Windows and Android it doesn't yet support a built in way to use an external video player. I believe there's an opt in beta for Android that has external player support. But Windows doesn't. I'm aware that I can just copy and paste the url but's only going to work for me who's the more technically inclined compared to the rest who may access it. An external video player is mandatory here since it doesn't play HEVC videos without them. And I reencode every video I have to save space. Of course this is with transcoding off as it eats all of my CPU resources of my 6700K just to do so.
  12. Generally for this feature I use an SMB File Share over my local network if I wanted to watch content from my PC on my Android device. Now I wanted to be able to access the same files over the internet to allow family and friends to view outside my local network. What I currently do is utilize a program called ZeroTier which functions like the more commonly known Hamachi so that devices on different networks are seen as being on the same local network. This would work pretty flawlessly between desktops. However it's practically unusable on mobile for some reason. I've also been made aware that SMB through the internet is a vulnerable method. Though SMB3 over Wireguard VPN is passable. However I don't know how to set that up. So I've been looking for other methods of internet media sharing. I've taken a look at Plex but I dislike the navigation. And any real feature I want is locked behind a subscription as well as not knowing how to share the media server with other users. All I'm looking for is a simple and free way to allow read access to media on my drive over the internet. I'm trying to access the data from both a desktop and mobile device. It should allow content to be streamed but not required to be downloaded off the server beforehand. And I don't know how video buffering works if that's by protocol or integrated per media player but it would need to have that in case there's multiple users accessing the drive at once.
  13. I've been to various stores and might've seen them. But they were all rocking chairs which I don't want. Yeah, these are great but almost all of them lack the ability to recline.
  14. Here's what I'm currently eyeballing. https://www.amazon.com/KILLABEE-Reclining-Memory-Racing-Gaming/dp/B07FCZ696Y/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=reclining+chair&qid=1561828473&s=gateway&sr=8-12 All the features I want in a chair are as follows... -Lots of quality thick padding, even on the arm rest. I don't want this thing deflating after a few months to a year and ripping apart due to cheap materials and construction. -Around at least a 20"x20" seating area since I actually like so sit cross legged. (I saw cross legged but I put on leg over the other. It's far more comfortable, give it a try.) -Can recline. NOT rock. I like to be in a more unfolded position for when I watch videos. -The back should be tall enough for me to rest my head against. I know there are chairs that meet my expectations but they're only half height. -The link I shared is a "gaming" chair but that's completely unnecessary. It just matches my desires. -The leg rest is unnecessary. I use my subwoofer a foot rest. If you've seen anything close to what I'm looking for then please let me know. If you have experience with something like this then even better. I've looked at a few options and it's just a matter of how well the material and padding is. Thanks in advance.
  15. Is the idea of those to host cloud storage from my computer?
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