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JuganD

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  • Posts

    36
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bulgaria
  • Interests
    Computers, Games, Any kind of software and hardware, Software Development (C#, Javascript, JS+React, PHP, C++, Java, Go, Ruby -> in order of interest descending), Watching Linus drop stuff

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 6 cores / 12 threads OC @ 4.2GHz 1.25V
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX
  • RAM
    Corsair VENGEANCE LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 OC @ 3600/CL17
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB overclocked to oblivion
  • Case
    Fractal Design Meshify C
  • Storage
    Seagate Desktop HDD 2TB 6.0Gb/s 3.5", SSD Kingston A400 120GB, SSD Kingston A400 240GB
  • PSU
    Seasonic S12 II Bronze 520W
  • Display(s)
    Acer ED242QRA, 23.6", 144Hz, VA, FreeSync
  • Cooling
    ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO
  • Keyboard
    CoolerMaster Devastator II
  • Mouse
    Cougar Revenger
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64-bit

JuganD's Achievements

  1. If it keeps 1.46 under load that is not normal, but at that temperature it's definitely thermal throttling, so the voltage might not be the core of the problem. Might sound stupid but, is he sure he applied the thermal paste and installed the cooler correctly?
  2. I'd personally go with Kingston 2x8GB 2666Mhz CL16. CL22 is way too slow for the benefit of increased frequency and sub-timing tightening is huge pain to deal with if you later decide you want to overclock. You can do quick calculation to find out which one is "generally" faster by the following formula, which was included in few LTT videos - (CL / frequency) * 2000. So for A-DATA we have 13.75ns latency, for Kingston we have 12ns (lower is better). Of course take this results with a grain of salt, this latency is not the only indicator of performance, but generally speaking if you're not going to overclock it, 2666 CL16 should be solid choice. You can always increase the frequency later if your board is decent and you got good silicon quality sticks.
  3. B450 TOMAHAWK MAX supports R5 3600 since launch (I'm running the same combination but with the X version or the CPU). I can't really say whats wrong, but its probably not the bios version.
  4. First of all you should check which CPUs are compatible with your motherboard. I believe the 4000 series will support b450 and X470 with bios update probably. So you should first check what options you have for your specific motherboard.
  5. 48MB hardware reserved means its working fine. So when you put single stick in any of the slots it works, but then when you put them together it doesn't? Your particular memory stick model (CMT16GX4M2C3000C15) is not in the official memory support list from Gigabyte, but its non-RGB version (CMD16GX4M2B3000C15) is in the list so theoretically it should work fine. It might be faulty slot that refuses to work properly in dual-channel. The bad news is you can't really diagnose that, since you got only 2 slots and can't simply move the ram sticks to another 2 slots.
  6. Most scores for 3700x stock online are around 4700-4800, so you should be fine (I've seen as low as 4200 with stock cooler). Its common for Ryzen chips to lower frequency to save power so that might be the case. It could also be wrong reading from HWinfo, I've seen the same thing in HWMonitor, showing lower frequency in the minimal column but then AIDA64's stress test and frequency graph doesn't catch that. Anyway, if the frequency drop is just for split second and its not persistent its probably nothing to worry about, given your temperatures are fine (70c under load is pretty good) and you haven't changed any CPU settings in bios.
  7. It is under performing by A LOT. I've got the same SSD, that is why I was surprised by the results you showed. Just for reference, here are my results below. If you got the SSD's drivers up to date (I personally use Kingston SSD Manager to check for firmware updates) and still get this results there might be a problem with the SSD itself.
  8. Keep in mind that there are some registry keys that also has to be changed in order to boot into Windows after changing to AHCI mode. They should be something like this: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\storahci - "Error Control" = 0 HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\storahci\StartOverride - "0" = 0 Though google it just to be sure, you can find many tutorials online how to change from IDE to AHCI mode without needing to reinstall Windows.
  9. Are you sure you have selected SATA AHCI mode in your bios/uefi, instead of IDE mode?
  10. Thanks for the quick responses guys! I'm more confident dealing with boot failures after what I've read. Black screen heart rate lowered by 20 bpm
  11. So its not actually interacting in any way with the battery's power, but instead signaling that it should reset the settings I should've actually thought of that since after the short it asks me if I want to load previously saved profile, which I thought was pretty cool but wondered how does it work if its supposed to .. like "erase" it
  12. Hello, so I've been thinking a lot recently, does frequent shorting of CMOS battery actually causes any damage in the long run? By damage I mean any kind of aftereffect like degradation, power loss and overall shorting lifespan. I've been searching a lot for any kind of specific information about that, since I've been overclocking a lot recently and a few times I had to short jBAT1 pins to reset the configuration, but everywhere I looked there were more information about the process of shorting and not enough about the effects
  13. Thanks! The Fractal Meshify C looks pretty nice and it seems it will be a great solution. They even have it close to me! Finally some good luck
  14. Thanks for the quick response! Well, the cpu cooler is the be quiet! Pure Rock, and about the stores, I mentioned that to clarify more or less what kind of case I search for. There are tons of cases in the stores all around the country and I was really surprised they don't have that case..
  15. Hello! So recently i've been searching for a new case for my gaming configuration(ATX board), because the high temps of the GTX 1060 6GB started to freak me out (it is factory OC'd edition). Upon full load in games the GPU reaches 80c... and that happens even with me configuring the fan speed (to about 70-80%). My current case is like almost 10 years old, it doesn't even have front fan... or any other fans except the one in the back. So now i'm looking for a good budget case (below 100$) to try and fix those temps. I've found a case I like - Silverstone Redline RL06, but unfortunately we don't have it in the stores in my country (Bulgaria) and the fees to import one are kinda huge. So I would really appreciate it, if you can recommend me any cases similar to this one I can buy, or any other case with good airflow. P.S. Oh and btw I've got bequiet cpu cooler, so thin cases won't really do the job here.
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