Andrewxe

If your networking is all Gigabit, your file transfers will be limited to 100 MB/sec anyway.
 
PCIe 3.0 x1 is plenty fast enough for a couple SATA drives.

Buy the thing and see what controller they use. And, most of the time, each drive gonna hover around 95-170MBps transfer rate anyway, and that for sequential speed, when we talking normal R/W operation, well, it's gonma much slower.
 
PCIe 3.0 x1 speed is around 900MBps, but I believe cheaper PCIe to SATA adapter still using the older gen 2 bus, which is around 500MBps, using the rule, how many PCIe lanes your card is using and what generation its running, divided by how many sata ports its have, and add -10% for overhead.

No problem. You shouldn't have any problems. Just so you know 1gigabit networking is equivalent to 125MB/s(8 bits in a byte), so you probably do have gigabit hardware. It's been cheap and included for years now.

Get the cheapest set of 2x8GB DDR4 3200 so that it runs in dual channel.

Sure, but get G. Skill over Corsair.    The Ripjaws V 3200MHz CL16 are your bread and butter.

I'd rather have low profile dimms but the Ripjaws are very slightly cheaper at 1780 per stick (2 sticks for 2x8) rather than 1820 per stick 

Memory controllers are in the uncore or I/O die (Intel or AMD respectively), so a motherboard's 'support' for a certain speed doesn't indicate the CPU itself will handle that memory speed. They used to be on the motherboard, so outside of the RAM QVL, its somewhat meaningless.
 
I haven't seen much data on high end DDR4 speeds on B760, but the CPU in question also supports DDR5 if that's an option, instead of going high end DDR4.
 
To answer your question, 4133MHz on the RAM kit would indicate that each DIMM is running at 2066MHz, because the speed advertised for Dual Data Rate memory is usually 2x what it actually runs at. This is because DDR memory transfers data twice per cycle, so a lot of companies just list the 'effective speed' just like how graphics cards with GDDR5x/GDDR6/GDDR6x have ridiculous +10GHz 'effective' memory speeds.

It's complicated. 
 
That kit is going to be single rank, and if you're only running two sticks it would fall under the *1DPC 1R subcategory, so assuming you've got a -K SKU CPU it can run at over 5GHz. Unfortunately, advertised RAM speeds per board are generally pretty meaningless as there's so many other factors in play and motherboard manufacturers like to over-exaggerate the capabilities of their boards.
 
The big things to know are that the Intel memory controller has two main modes for DDR4, Gear 1 and Gear 2, and that the non-K CPUs have a significantly weaker memory controller due to them having locked internal voltage rails. Gear 1 vs. Gear 2 is a little complicated, but the short version is Gear 1 has a lower max clock speed but better latency figures, while Gear 2 can do much higher clock speeds with a latency penalty. That latency penalty can sometimes be overcome if you run memory at insane clock speeds (5000+), but it's rare and you're usually better off just sticking to Gear 1. Taking that into account, you need to look at what speeds will actually run in each mode. On the -K SKUs, the range is usually between 3800 and 4200 as the max in Gear 1 (there are a couple chips that can go above this though), and ~5000 in Gear 2. On the non-K SKUs, the range is closer to 3466-3866 in Gear 1 and ~4400 in Gear 2. 
 
As for what would happen if you just enabled XMP, it would run at DDR4 4133 CL19 as that is a memory ratio on LGA 1700. It's just that you will be in Gear 2 and therefore get worse performance than if you had stuck with a cheaper kit at 3600 CL14, or just manually dialing in 3600 CL14 anyway. 

Non k cpus have locked vccsa so youll need gear 2 to hit 3600+
 
B660m pg riptide is a better board choice since you can oc non k and k cpus via bclk, there is a b760m version but its ddr5
 
Thats likely just unbinned micron rev e or hynix djrs, cheap shit you can buy off cheap bare pcbs like hma81/82gu6djr8n and manual oc to 4600+
 
 
Its 2x8 and 4133 so itll be single rank (1r) and since theres only 2 sticks its 1dpc, falls into the first spec which is upto 5333 ddr4, so basically anything up to 5333 will theoretically work which includes 4133
 
beware that >4000 xmps are generally quite unreliable and also just stupid pricey, for that 4133 kit problably some unbinned hynix djrs or micron rev e since its just generic gskills, same shit you get in 2666 oem jedec hynix/micron sticks (the aformentioned hma81/82gu6djr8n). id reccomend a 4000/4133 klevv kit instead as klevv is just hynixes consumer devision and these are problably binned hynix djrs not cheap shit you can buy for 10$ thatll only top out at like 4800-5200, but if you arent trying to reach stratospheric speeds those aformentioned bare pcbs would be a good choice
 
and yes those speeds are attainable though quite annoying to hit, trying to stabilize those speeds is a whole other thing though
 
If performance is what you seek then there is no other way than manual tuning, money wont buy you fast rams unless you tune em first, even those ridicolous 5333 bin tridentz royals are no exception

The 12400 and the 5600 non-X are very similar (TPU had them at less than 1% difference @ 1080p), so I doubt you'd notice much difference. The 5700X has 2 extra cores, so can't be directly compared.
 
Agree with the above though, try to avoid a single stick, especially with a Ryzen CPU, but it's not great for any of them.

A 5600 will be more than good for your usage

Get a second stick of RAM. You'll thank me later.

New build or existing build?
 
If existing build list the full specs and parts that are gonna be swapped
 
If new build list budget country partlist and all parts that have already been bought
 
 
5600 and 5600x are pretty bad buys if you buy new and you are better off with a 5700x
 
Used 5600(x) go for 80-100$ and used 5800x iirc around 150$, probs better off with the used 5600(x) unless you have a use for the extra cores but if you find a good deal on a used 5800x sure why not

Doesn't really matter that much, since performance is so similar in most games (especially with esports). I'd pick based on the price and how long you want to keep the PC.

They wanted me to take pictures of the card itself, mostly the stickers on it. But you will have to see what they say.

Yeah, it will work.

Give me some links to the shop so i can look for the ssd. there should be something decent there beside these two. does it have to be PCIe gen 4? 
The NV2 is now on 144 QLC, it’s slow. 

WD SN770 is way faster, NV2 is a Pcie4 drive with Gen3 speeds... but those are already really good irl
Usually it's more sensible to prioritize storage quantity, so get a 2TB NV2 for the same price than a 1TB SN770 🙂
 

The WD would have better performance, cache for faster small downloads and also more reliable fast storage

Those cables look like they have a different design too, the top middle pin in the two on the left doesn't have the two clipped corners. Are these cables from different PSUs? If they are, don't use them together. PSU cables are only meant to be used with the PSU they came with, and it's totally possible to damage components by switching cables.

You cannot mix modular cables from different power supplies. There's no standard for how the wires are arranged and it's pretty clear from your photo even just from the [missing] pins being in different places on the connector that they are not compatible. Using incompatible SATA power cables can kill anything you plug in to them, including hard drives. Does the HDD still work if you plug in the good cable or did you kill the drive by using the wrong cables?
 
You could use a depinning tool to remove the wires and repin them to match what the compatible cable. Use a multimeter on continuity mode and use the original cable and a guide that shows you which pins on the SATA connector are what to map out where 12V, 5V, 3.3V and ground wires go on the PSU side then copy that when you repin the other cable.
It looks as if the shapes of the connectors are different between the two connectors so they might not physically fit in the power supply socket, depending what the socket hole shapes are. The top middle shape near the tab is square on the left cables and D shaped on the right cable so if it's a D hole on the power supply then you shouldn't be able to fit the connector in the PSU... But there is a chance that the PSU is just using a square hole anyway which would take both D and square shaped pins.

All boards have the same IO Shield setup

This is close to a mini DTX. It is compatible with mITX mountings but has an extra PCI-E slot at the bottom. Your board seems to be classified as "mATX" because t's also technically wider than mDTX, 

It might fit....  But as you said, it won't hold a GPU.  (Well, it could hold a 1 slot GPU, but that's it.)  

1. Yes, the fans can be daisy chained together and plugged into CHA_FAN header on the motherboard, then you can set the fan curve in BIOS or using ASUS software. It's in the manual. 

2. Same with the back fan. 
 
 
3 pin fans can have speed control via voltage 6-12V. 4 pin fans use PWM to control the speed, which technically gives you more steps and lets you run the fans slower, but the difference is very minor when it comes to chassis fans.