layarion

Ya I'm waiting to see what Zen4 offers before I do that, especially since it's APU will have RDNA2. I have a gpu already, but my GTX770 died and it wasn't even that old. So I think eitherway, I want an APU as a backup. I should be able to get a head start on the PSU though, I just don't know if it's actually the PSU. I originally did think it was the MOBO failing, but those kernel power critical logs have me wondering about the PSU as well. I wish I could just borrow a PSU somehow to find out.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Layarion/saved/#view=X2hgnQ

Question 1, it's time to replace the PSU right? I've been getting random BSOD, and about once a day I have to do a song and dance before my computer will POST. Without the song and dance, it goes into a loop, never posting. (unplug one RAM stick, turn PC on, wait for the BEEP, turn PC off, put stick back in, and continue about my day) After some years of this happening without consistency - in the past the song and dance wouldn't work everytime, but for some reason now it does - I'm now suspecting the PSU. It's 11 years old now, and I live in America. The power goes out maybe once a year, and the lights dim or flicker maybe once every 6 months. Memtest says ram is fine, perma storage is healthy, and windows logs does show lots of errors/criticals. Some of the criticals being kernal power. Question 2, should I get a quality UPS? Most people seem to say "yes", but after looking into more of what @jonnyGURUsays -based on snippets I got from Gn videos, I don't know that i'll benefit from it much. I say this because it's rare when the lights flicker or dim, and rarer still when the power goes out. I haven't lost any work to the power going out, and part of that is because the power usually goes out with such a short duration that my computer doesn't even notice - even when I'm gaming. All the devices in the house turn off, but my computer doesn't react to it in the slightest. The UPS I'm looking at buying would be the https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK , I already have a tipp-lite surge protector. Question 2.1, with power outs and sags this sparse, will an UPS/AVR combo increase the life of my PSU? People seem to be telling me that if I had been using such a combo the entire time, I wouldn't need to replace this PSU today. This one guy that I think lives in America (just someone I talk to in Discord), says they recommend it anyway because they swear they have to replace PSU's less often now. (no idea what quality of PSU he buys, but his UPS is the CP1500AVRLCD which isn't the cheapest thing in the world so his PSU might be up there as well) System Specs https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Layarion/saved/#view=X2hgnQ

read through this thread because i'm used to ATX air builds, looking into mITX for the first time. Gotta say, picking a case seems to be the the hardest thing about this, second being if i want to give up my nh-d15 for water cooling. which i don't because i spent money on the d15, it works well and i don't want to deal with the noise water cooling adds. anyway this thread was a help, especially the bits about airflow, it steered me away from the Evolv and to the nano. gonna just compare nano to the h210 now.

I feel that i have something to add here, but i'm also hoping to get an update from someone with answers. also, i think it's appropiate to necro this thread because when i searched for an answer in 2017, this was near the top of the search. Others will be here to see this...i don't know..anyway... I've been through many gaming headsets, and i have the Blue Snowball Ice. Recently got an arm, shock mount, and pop filter all for under $31 USD for it. All three items work very well with it after some cheap grocery plastic bags were wrapped around the legs of the snowballs stand to make it work with the shock mount. I try to do quality how-to vids and sometimes twitch/let's play vids. in the end i have the snowball ice, and the Arctis 7. The snowball is quality stuff, but not if your place isn't dead quiet, and i mean dead quiet. If you can get that, and maybe even move away from your computer or turn the fans off for a spell or put them on low...then it's a good deal. The problem is it picks up EVERYTHING. Honestly i feel that Blue should be sued for marketing this as a "cardiod" microphone because those kinds of microphones are not suppose to pick up everything, only whats in front and a little to the sides. then i have the arctis 7. It's not great either. It certainly reduces ambient or background noise much more than the snowball, but it also doesn't sound natural either. if you were to ask me to pick only one though, for all future recordings...i can't record often at night when everyone is asleep because i'm too tired...and for that reason i might go full on arctis 7. I think i'll order the modmic and compare it, and even post a youtube vid comparing them. if it doesn't blow me away (at least in terms of other headset mics) then i'll eat the return shipping. First though, i'll order the adg1x through bestbuy and get a sample of that.

ok thank you all for the valuable info and especially the clear answers to my questions. I will need time to digest what i read, and it might be awhile before i try RAM overlcoking and longer still if i ever try deidling (because that scares me). Actually i might try overclocking the RAM soon, because it seems important...but for now i need to just absorb all this before doing more. still, i'll post when i clean up that voltage and settle on the cpu setup. No i wasn't interested in improving benchmark test, i was more or less trying to figure out what it was and if it was important. Since it seems not to be, i'll leave the ring voltage where the video had me leave it.

No i don't know anything about LLC and i dunno if my board has it. that does lead me to another question in regards to your bench marking comments. If i hit a stable baseclock of 4.5 on all cores, do i bother turning turbo on? like does it go above that, or do i lower the other cores to allow 1 core to go to 4.5 or could they all stay at 4.5 but allow one to go above 4.5?

i5-4590k currently OC'ed to 4.5@1.310 volts. Small Prime FFT test hit 90C, only 76C on "1344" stability test. (Cooler is NH-D15) 8GBx2 1600Mhz PNY RAM. Tower: HAF-X, default number of fans that it ships with. Gigabyte G1. Sniper Z97 GTX 1070 (not overclocked) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Last Sunday I got my NH-D15 in the mail, and installed it immediately. Then i went to this site: http://overclocking.guide/gigabyte-g1-sniper-z97/ and followed the instructions in the video. I am completely new to anything overclocking so I just kept my head low and just followed the instructions on the vid exactly. Save the the memory profile, because i don't know what to do with that. Like the video suggested I disabled all turbo boost, and power saving features. Then i started by just raising the multiplier to 43, and voltage to 1.250 and manually set the other voltage settings to exactly what was seen in the vid. I ran the latest version of Prime95 at 1344 to 1344, FFT in place, and 15 minutes and let it run for 30 minutes. Was fine, and i jumped to a multiplier of 46 and a voltage of 1.325 and the system wouldn't even start windows. So far, messing with only the multiplier, core voltage, and literally nothing else i seem to have (form 30 minute test mind you) a stable of 4.5 at 1.310v...though i think i could get away with just 1.3v for 45. Running the stability 1344 test, tempts didn't go above 76C, but if i specifically push for heat and use Small FFT on prime95 one of my cores maxes out at 90C. so two questions: 1) i was told to not let the tempts go above 90C, and i ask: Should i base that limit on the stress test tempts, or the Heat test tempts? because i can get more voltage room if i go off the stress test version. 2) Is there anything more to do than raise the multiplier and core voltage? 3) Do i need to do anything with my RAM or Ring volts/speed? basically what more should i be doing before doing the 21 hour stress test? update: while rendering a video on adobe premiere the hate stays very tame at 65C

So it seems 1 of the 4 legs on my heatsink are broken somehow, and that might be why I'm having trouble.

I have the stock fan on it, and i guess after i tidy up things on the software side i'll replace the thermal paste. The NF-15D comes with some anyway so i won't have to stress about using it. The HAF-X shouldn't have poor airflow? maybe i'll take the side panel off during testing just to be sure.

ok so it's perfectly normal? that makes me feel better. i suppose i should look at the voltage it's at right now too. I know i need a fan, but i was a little alarmed to see 100C with 0 overclocking. also i am just "curious" to see what i get before putting the aftermarket cooler on.

i5-4690k Stock Cooler, Stock Clocks. 16GB PNY RAM GIGABYTE G1.Sniper Z97 HAF-X full tower computer case. GTX 1070 8GB -------------------------------------------------- So after two years of stock clocks, I've finally decided to take a crack at my first overclock. I plan on buying something like the NF-A15, or maybe the Corsair H110i/H115i and perhaps replace its fans with Noctua fans. So i downloaded the gigabyte OC software, which i later removed because my two friends who seem to know what their talking about told me to remove all that...and then i downloaded 29.2 and 26.6 versions of Prime95. Both on small FFTs and a custom 1344 to 1344 set to 15 minutes with FFTs in place make my CPU throttle at 100C in less than a minute. They tell me that's definitely not normal, other shit i look up says these heat stress test will do that though and that i should use other means for stability test. As well as that Haswell is just hot. Either way, i don't know how to proceed. I hope i didn't get a really bad chip. Right now, I'm going to try to make sure the OC software did indeed remove itself, try to reset bios just in-case said software changed something there, and i'm using Core Temp to measure temps. update: yes i am still using hte stock cooler as well as stock clocks. I'll look into replacing the thermal paste, i have some laying around that's 2 years old i think. i just wanted to test it before overclocking to do a before/after thing. Update: one of the legs on my stock heat sink is broken and this might be what ails me.

I'm going to get a Noctua Fan, and overclock. I will also keep an eye out for good deals on used i7-4790k processors. Maybe i can get one for $200.

Could you explain? wouldn't a lower rez just make everything easier on everything? Also, will overclocking make more than a handful of frames difference? When I bought the 1070 I wanted to be sure i could keep things at 60 frames without lowering settings, but i didn't realize my 95 would bottleneck it. Some people are saying i'm not bottlenecking it, but a friend of mine with a 1060 and a i7 at 1600 by 900 is getting more frames than me.