foolishlywise

Have you tried booting into RouterOS (if you're in SwOS) or vice versa to check it isn't a software issue/bug? Other than that, agree with others on trying another set of optics and patch leads.

@GabenJr @LinusTech I work for Parliament here in the UK (as a researcher for a Member), and I believe we have some relations with the exec team/public affairs team at Apple. Could write to them using my position in Parliament to see what they can do. It usually works. I am happy to provide proof I work for em (have my official email and other bits of ID) - if a mod or yourselves want to check this.

As is with life, I haven't had time to physically use my computer because my degree is drowning me. So it's been a Remote Desktop job for the past week or so. Everything was fine, I've been using the machine to admin a CCTV system at home (broadcasting using OBS, some other stuff too but yeah) - nothing too taxing on it. Today, I notice the monitor doesn't switch on when mouse moved. System is pingable on the LAN but nothing. Eventually, I isolate it down to the GPU. But I have no idea what's going on. Starting the system gets me to the ASUS BIOS, then the little spinning circle dots thing and then boom, 'Monitor going to sleep'. Changing ports does zero - no idea! Removing drivers using the Driver Uninstall Tool (so booting in safe mode with networking) allows me to uninstall the drivers. When restarting with no GPU drivers installed (so just the Microsoft Basic Graphics Driver... thing), I can see everything just fine. 1080p of U2414H all works. HOWEVER, when installing the latest (or any) nVidia drivers, boom - no more signal. I can still use the system via TeamViewer and it shows the 1070 on Device Manager. Ideas, guys? It's a GTX 1070 MSI Seahawk EK Edition (full cover block) on a X99-WS 10G with a 5820K and 24GB's RAM - no overclock. Monitor is a U2414H. Tried displayport, DVI, HDMI - no luck.

Primochill Advanced LRT and (more recently) EK DuraClear both quite literally did the same thing. Bashed my head against a wall working out why - and couldn't find the answer. Supposedly, there shouldn't be degradation after three months, but Primo and Duraclear both went. Whilst I don't have a see-thru case panel, I do like seeing if the coolant is fully drained out the tubes. However, getting some coolant on my clothes isn't a major deal if I can solve the algae issue - thus ZMT Matte Black this time around - out of sheer precaution and risk mitigation.

Once upon a time, I would wholly agree with you guys (I see the logic). But for reasons unknown to me (quite literally unknown), every single time I've used a premix, I've seemingly got green stuff/greasy residue hanging around in my loop - with tube staining and a greasy res. Since my rig lives under my desk, its a non-window case and no light hits the fluid. With two coolants (EK's premix stuff as well as Mayhems X1 Clear), I've had weird residue left in the loop and in the blocks. Upmost due diligence taken (rads flushed before use with hot distilled water + mayhems blitz + blocks cleaned as much as possible) but nope - it comes and laughs in my nightmares. Worth a shot with the distilled is my rationale rn

Brilliant. I knew I should've payed more attention when doing my chemistry A-level!

Due to some algae happening, custom loop has been ripped apart and being rebuilt. Having a read on the forums whilst waiting for some stuff to arrive from Germany to here (damn you UPS), I think I've been converted to be a purist - distilled water. Plan is to run the loop with distilled water + plus this stuff here (LIQUID.cool PM Nuke PHN Concentrated Biocide) as I'm using nickel blocks and apparently copper sulphate doesn't play nice with nickel thus using this version. Some people say corrosion inhibitors are a must. Some say nope unless aluminium is in the loop. The D5 pump is made out of stainless steel (so is the jet plate in the EK GPU block). Stainless steel and copper are quite far apart in the reactive scale, thus my question. If an inhibitor is needed, the only one I can find is Primochill Liquid Utopia (which isn't sold in the UK, ugh). Is there another common one, or will I have to get the stuff imported from the States? We have some central heating anti-corrosion stuff, but I doubt that would work Any help would be greatly appreciated - from me and future loop!

Had to order something else to bump the order price up. Mayhems was the thing they sold so meh

Quite literally a whole new retail boxed CPU. They're fantastic.

Added it in early April - after the whole loop was flushed using their Blitz kit. Noticed something wasn't quite right so pulled it apart to see whats going on.

It's the premix coolant stuff - X1 clear, includes biocide. I also noticed the typo in the title just now too; its been a long day!

Some months ago, I was on this forum trying to figure out what was making my res cloudy and everything a bit crap. I thought I solved it but nope. Nope nope nope. Whilst previously there was just some greeny-brown residue, now, we have fluff. No joke - I pulled out green/grey fluff out of the microchannels on the CPU block. GPU block yet to be opened but having a look through the plexi, I can't see the green fibres - although this was only added into the loop at the end of April. The same fluff is present around the CPU block seal and the brown colour that I managed to wipe away from the base of the res is remarkably similar to the 'oil' EKWB use on the rubber seals (according to their rep on Reddit). However, looking at the tubing now, its slightly cloudy. No way near opaque, but its noticeably not as clear as the bits that fit around the barb and have no fluid contact. Trying to remove the residue inside of the tube with some cloth and a screwdriver results in nothing - it seems like the tube itself has lost its crystal clarity. Previously, I used Mayhems Blitz (Parts 1 and 2 - according to instructions) to clean the loop out throughly. Rads were acid treated, all fittings cleaned with good old isopropyl alcohol. EK DuraClear tubing used and I thought that was that. I've stuck some pictures on this post - -the white cloth has the stuff I wiped from the bottom of the res -the tiny bit of 'fluff' -tubing comparison Loop has 1x CPU block, 1x GPU block, 1x360mm PE, 1x240mm PE, Pump/Res Combo (D5) - using Mayhems X1 fluid. Thankfully, I won't need my PC for a bit I don't think so I can spend some time figuring this out. Any one of you guys have any idea on this one?

Its a pity that by design, the really cool looking stuff is mounted upside down. But oh man I didn't know a graphics card could be something of such beauty. Oh and also (totally unrelated) a pair of New Balance 818v2's. First foray into NB's, we see how they go.

Indeed, I think it was a mix of setting the LLC lower to allow more VDroop and lowering the voltages down to optimal levels. I'm yet to set the VCCIN manually but that might take a couple degrees off perhaps - nothing dramatic. I'm now sitting on 1.1395v and Realbench looks happy. With ambients of 27degC in my room right now and Realbench running just over 3hrs, averaging 55-7degC on the second hottest core and the fans only barely audible (I prefer quiet). I'm sure jacking the fans up to full 1500rpm would lower that down to 50-3degC. On ambients, wanna swap? Forecast to be 24degC here in London today - which is pretty warm for what we're used to Brave man. The TIM Intel use is bs.

@dexT Hmm, what are the ambient temps like? Running these fans at their full speed brings the temps down by around 8-9degC (right now they're set to be quiet rather than performance). So if they were full whack, looking at around 47degC but with 240+360 rad spac, just CPU in loop and 23degC ambients. Acceptable? (I admit I'm still learning about this stuff)