8-Bit Ninja

Thanks you very much. Indeed, in the time I’ve owned it it’s only lost about £1k in value. Which is beyond impressive, time will tell how much of that is the current car market vs collectibility of the car though. Will be interesting to see what BMW does with the inevitable new gen m140i. They seem rather set on this x-drive nonsense though Unfortunately not, that’s just a Seat Ibiza fr. I had the pleasure of driving a friends Gr Yaris a few months back and wow. I’m not a big fan of awd in general but that thing is something very special, not £35k special but still fantastic fun.

Huh I didn't even know the forum had a car sub. This is my 2017 BMW M140i, has a fairly extensive list of mods which il try and remember Visual - Aftermarket rear diffuser -M Style mirror caps - Front air surrenders painted - Black kidney grills Performance - Litchfield Stage 1 tune (Running 438hp wheel if I remember correctly and somewhere around 420 lbft of torque) - XHP stage 3 gearbox map (Auto zf8) - Quiff LSD - Motec lowering + stance kit - Powerflex rear bushings and a few other little things I cant remember, I've owned it for about 2 and half years now. Looking to move on soon, a manual M2 CS has caught my eye big style, but here in the UK they're trading for at least £80k which is significantly more than I've ever spent on a car and quite a scary amount to tie up in one honestly.

Typically there is an option in the software to save settings to the mouse. But this would require you to install the software on a PC

If you want to stay within corsair you want to use their SP (Static Pressure) line of fans. These are designed for radiators.

Your RAM is running in dual channel, so your bios is showing the speed of the RAM running in dual channel (2400mhz X 2) where as cupid is showing the speed per stick of RAM. Both are correct, both are technically the same.

If its too good to be true it probably is. If its Facebook marketplace then they must be somewhat local to you, I suggest going in person

You've still answered your own question lol You need the best camera and performance the 13 > 12 and the SE has a much weaker camera than either

Well a budget would be a good start. If you cant afford a whole upgrade then you're going to be either CPU or GPU bottlenecked. You'll likely see a grater FPS improvement from a GPU upgrade. But you will be CPU limited at that point.

I'm currently selling a PC made up of parts I had lying around, unsure of what price to sell it at. List below: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/9b8Vwc Thanks.

Wow i forgot about this thread @Retro_RWhat i ended up doing was buying an ARC extractor from amazon. It allowed me to use HDMI over ARC for audio from the TV, into the adapter which then let me split it out into phono. Its not perfect, there is a small amount of noise coming through the speakers but it does the job. I'm not sure if its your TV or just a dodgy adapter but i can control volume using the TV remote, if i remember correctly i did need to enable a setting in the TV though.

Its a 5950x, I wouldn't worry about 80c. My 5800x hits that on a 240 aio. As for the delta between package and die it varies massively, a 10c delta is nothing to worry about.

Is the housing the fan sits in damaged?

I have an apple watch which I exclusively use as a fitness tracker (I know its not great but it does what I need). And then I have a few watch's as an accessory I guess. There only worn in formal settings because I don't see the point in wearing one daily, it doesn't really take any longer to check my phone.

I'd shoot an email to MSI honestly, that's some very poor quality control on their part. As for the exchange window, I'm not sure where you're located. But in the UK a warranty is with the seller not the manufacture, so you may still be able to get amazon to offer you an exchange. If not, assuming that's thermal paste not a pad. Clean the gunk off the heatsink, apply new thermal paste to the chip. And then honestly just get some screws long enough to screw through the board into the heatsink, I wouldn't worry too much about the threads being perfectly the same as long as they bite.

I know of a few mini pci-e ones, never seen an m.2 one though. Its not a common thing due to the easy availability of public Wi-Fi. I assume you have a laptop bag to carry the laptop in? If so would one of those portable hotspot devices which you plug the sim card into not make more sense?

Which AIO do you have? I find my NZXT X62 will gurgle if I've been running the pump at low speed (watching videos etc...) and then launch a game. One option would be to just run the pump speed at max (Depending on how loud the rest of your system is you might not even hear it).

Yeh the VRam pads are the damaged ones, i'd suggest ordering some 0.5mm then, i wouldn't risk putting a pad twice a thick on it.

As far as I can see there's no official specs, from another post a few years old I found the following; "This is a Late response, but after taking my GIGABYTE Windforce 2080 super apart and the thermal pads crumbling on me, I started looking for what size they may have been. Unfortunately no one has posted any findings. So after countless assembles and disassembles, I found that the thermal pads on the (VRAM are 0.5 mm) and the other thermal pads are (1.0 mm). Its important to note that you also need to apply a substantial amount of trusted Thermal paste compared to a CPU and also spread it out over the whole dye. I also found that if you lack the .5mm thermal pads, you can run the card without them on the VRAM and still get good temps. I played a few hours of Call of Duty, and got great temps, with little fan noise. (No Pads on VRAM:145 FPS, GPU 60*c, Fans at 65% ) (.5mm Pads on VRAM: 145 FPS, GPU 60*-63*c, Fans at 65-70%)"

Some specs would be helpful

I'm glad you were able to solve it, but what the actual fuck?????? What possible reason is there to use none standard headers????

How do they stop someone just unlocking these through programming though? My m140i had apple car play done by a third party for a fraction the cost of what BMW were charging, granted I haven't had the car serviced since so will be interesting to see what happens when I do. But if you purchase the bike can they actually stop you?

Try unplugging everything but the PSU power cable and the display output.

Usually they have a slot in the top for you to use a flathead to remove. They unscrew like anything else.

Assuming the connector on the cable isn't keyed on one end then yes there's no reason you can't do that.

First step would be to reset the BIOS, you can do this by removing the CMOS battery (Leaving it out for 5 minutes) and then reinstalling it. If that doesn't work, unplug all drives, all but 1 stick of ram and if your CPU has onboard video, remove your GPU and plug into the motherboard display output. Then see if it'll boot.