Shad_Stang

Two Questions!

1. Tickets at the door if I have procrastinating friends?

2. Can I cosplay?

Not much to go off here, there was problems like this when it first launched. I would make sure you are on the latest drivers for your GPU first.

Yes, with another Keyboard or Shift+Restart

I have an Asus Maximus VIII Hero mobo, I updated from version 1903 to 3401, I updated through a flash drive through the menus (as opposed to the physical button).

When it stated that the update completed and reboot, nothing showed up on my screen. I cleared the cmos and I got to the american megatrends screen and it woudn't let me press F1 to continue on my Logitech g150s. I got a different keyboard and it worked fine. When I loaded the bios my mouse was fine, but my logitech keyboard wouldn't work.

What can I do to get my logitech keyboard to work like it did on bios 1903?

51 minutes ago, SSL said:

Put your back into it and stretch the headband. I had the same problem with the DT880 Pro.

 What does stretching the headband do vs stretching the clamp?

52 minutes ago, SSL said:

I will say that while a lot of people find the Beyerdynamic DT headphones comfortable, they never completely worked for me. I like my HE-560 much, much better. MUCH. The T1.2 was pretty comfortable; but it's $1000.

It'll probably be worth getting a titan x for that price range

Don't get me wrong these headphones sound amazing and I would love to keep them, but during long periods it seems that the pads push up too much pressure against my upper jaw, even after bending the clamps that attach it to the headband. I had oval/egg shaped headphones and it seems that the circle shaped ones don't do well.

Is it the pads? Is it the headphones? It is worth trying the M50x? (does it match it's sound signature?) What do you suggest?

Thanks!

I would take out the Noctuas and put back the old fans, making it stock again.

My Zotac GTX 970's fan are too loud, I wish to only replace my fans as I plan on reselling when pascal comes out. The image is the top of my card. Link also here.

Observations:

There is a mini pwm splitter for the two fans that go to the actual mini pwm port behind the shell

When I held down the fan to stop it to see if the noise was the gpu fans, the software reacted by making the other fan run at 100%

I originally wanted to put the slim profile 92mm Noctua fans on there, but I don't think it will let the air expel out with the Zotac fan shell cover. I could be wrong.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I ziptie Noctuas on the heatsink?

There were 3 things that helped with my silent PC.

1. PSU

My old Thermaltake had the fans run all the time. I replaced it with a Corsair HX (RX, HX, and AX will work). Even though it's not passive I never heard the fan turn on with my Corsair PSU and my GTX 970 and CPU running at full load, if the fan does turn on, it's at 10db which I think is inaudible.

2. CPU cooler

I had a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, the stock fan was too loud so I swapped it with a Noctua NF-F12 and it's silent even at 50% fan speed.

3. GPU

I have the lowest Zotac GTX 970, and I can't hear the fans at 30% idle speed, I used MSI Afterburner or equivalent programs and messed around with the fan speeds, no noise at idle and expected noise at load, but not excessive.

When you boot up your pc in the morning keep and ear open during boot and listen for the loudest hardware. For me right now I am using the Hyper 212 EVO stock fan as a case fan, it's the loudest, next is my HDD.

I would keep my eye on the BenQ XR3501. It was $700 during Black Friday on NCIX. Just set a price alert for that monitor on PcPartsPicker.

Rig: Silent Screamer 

CPU: i5 750 4.0GHz OC

GPU: GTX 970 Zotac

RAM: 8GB DDR3 (4x Kingston HyperX)

Score: 6.1

Other notes: Right Now GPU is OC (VR results were stock), firestrike scores around 9400ish. I do plan on underclocking mt CPU to 3.6GHz to see if test results are similar.

Woah, I don't want my PSU burning down my house, how might that happen with a TR2?

I build my system back in 2010 I have an i5 750, for five years it ran off of a 400w Topower PSU. I then upgraded to a Thermatake TR2 600w, I did some OC'ing to my i5 750 to bring it to 4.0GHz. My voltage on my motherboard is set to a little less than 1.25v with CPU-Z reading 1.232v.

I didn't like how loud my Thermaltake was, so I did some research, found out that the TR2 is a terrible PSU. I then found a deal on a Corsair HX750i and will install that.

I am wondering what advantages I'll get with the HX750i over the TR2, what harm might have been caused by running the TR2 for 6 months (OC for 1 month), and whether the HX750i will change how my computer runs in relation to my OC. (whether I need to change the voltages now that I have a better PSU)

Do I risk damaging if I undervolt too much? say 1.2V on 4GHz?

Hey I had the System Memory Multiplier at 8x, switch it to 6x and it boots at 3.5GHz!!!

What about voltage? My mobo has an Auto setting for voltage, do I just do 15 min stress test to check for stability?

At 3.4 and 3.5GHz it set voltage at 1.290V, when I bumped it to 3.6GHz it went up to 1.360V

I don't think I even increased the RAM speed, I don't need more RAM speed. I heard that Gigabyte board underclock RAM, but i don't see how it effects the processor. I can post BIOS pics if it helps.

So I bumped my voltage to 1.375 volts, according to CPU Z, I then overclocked from 3.4GHz to 3.5GHz and I still got the continuous beeps when I tried turning on my pc. The Auto setting in my BIOS set voltage at 1.290 for 3.4GHz.

Is there another setting I need to adjust?

I do want to clarify that the reason my computer is posting is because I am giving it too little voltage for the clock speed? It's not that I've hit the bad end of the silicon lottery or my processor is old?

I recently installed a hyper 212 evo cooler for my i5 750, I am hoping to OC to 3.8GHz. I am able to OC to 3.4GHz without any changes the voltage, but when I try to go to 3.5GHz or 3.6 GHz my computer won't even post and the BIOS makes continuous short beeps (manuals saids it's "power error").

1.310 volts is the highest I've dare to try, but whenever I set my clock to exceed 3.4GHz it won't boot and it gives me the beep codes.

If I go to 1.350 volts or more will that make my computer boot at 3.6GHz? Is it worth the risk damaging my components? Or is 3.4GHz the limit?

I've seen plenty of people on the amazon, etc., say that they have gotten 4GHz (from 2.7) using the 212 EVO. From what I am reading here it looks like I won't go anywhere near, I'll still try, I am aiming for 65C under load for my OC.

Would I just need clean air by the 212 EVO fan/RAM? Doesn't my front intake provide that?

My mindset is to use all the life left of my i5 750 until I am ready to build another rig. I can surely afford a new rig with Skylake, GTX 970, and a H100i now. Though there is nothing wrong with my rig now so no need to upgrade.

What I want to do is overclock my i5-750 with the 212 EVO cooler. I checked the height dimension for my GMC R4 Bulldozer (don't buy the case!) and it will barely fit in. (162mm from mobo to top of case panel)

I've attached an MS paint PNG of my configuration. I plan on moving my 90mm on the side of my case to one of the holes of the 120mm empty slot on my side panel so I can fit my 212 EVO.

So this means when I install the 212 EVO the cooler fan will most likely be over the RAM. The image shows little space between the RAM and my mounted drives.

Will this be a sufficient setup for overclocking my CPU? Should I instead invest in a corsair liquid cooler like the H60?

Is it okay to move my side intake fan down to fit the cooler?

Thanks for the help!

ALTHOUGH keep in mind your GPU right now wont really benefit from the 144Hz that much, even in 1080p, it will be a bit better, but not enough to justify buying a 144Hz over a 60Hz imo unless you just have money to splash aha 

The idea that I had in my head is that I would run 2560x1080 at 120hz or 144hz, but to make the (120 or 144) frame rate I would switch my graphics quality on BF4 or Pcars from high to low to hit the optimal FPS. Does that sound realistic?

Wow, I love the fast response!

I guess 5040x2160 is out of the question...

I have little experince with 60hz vs. 144hz for monitors. Should I familairze myself with the refresh rate difference? Is Battlefield 4 and Project Cars at 144hz/120hz worth the investment? Or is 21:9 a good enough improvement?

My current monitor is a 2008 Costco 22" 1080p Vizio, it is still good, but I am considering an upgrade.

I use my computer mostly for Project Cars, Battlefield 4, and to watch TV shows.

4K will be great for future-proofing tv shows.

21:9 will be great for Project Cars

144hz would be great for Battlefield 4

A curved monitor would be easy on the eyes.

Should I wait for a monitor with all four of these features to be released? Or can I compromise on some features?

FYI I am running a GTX 660 and I planned on lowering the in-game resolutions to 1080p (from 4K) so it doesn't freak out on me.