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ExplodingTaters

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Everything posted by ExplodingTaters

  1. Got my wisdom teeth out, and my DT770 Pro 250 ohms are now renedered uncomfy (until the swelling goes down). I use a Schiit Modi 2 as a DAC, and run it to a Monoprice Desktop AMP (MDA) using the line outs as dedicated amp. The MDA is rated from 16-600 ohms, and I'm curious if anything will be damaged if i run my 1MORE Quads (Buds) through the MDA. Will they be overdriven or damaged at all? The Quads are rated at 32 ohms, but im just super worried I'll damage something. Thanks y'all! -Collin
  2. I actually have my brothers license already. I have everything set up in preferences, the program is just super confusing and I'm not sure how to get anything working. I guess I'll just keep trying to watch youtube videos
  3. Hey guys! So my brother is moving, and is giving me his Launchpad Mini (yay!) I have absolutely no clue what I'm doing with this thing, but I'd like to set up a few functions for it. I want to be able to use it as a soundboard, and push audio clips/effects into my microphone output. (if possible?) I would also like to set up some macros for a few programs in the future. Oh, and the lights on this thing are pretty cool, and I'd like if they could be active all the time, or at least when I press them (similar to RGB keyboard effects) If anybody can help me out with programs that would work, It would all be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Hmm. I'm not sure what to go with! the 250 with the mono is technically cheaper, but I guess on long car rides or on planes the 80's could be useful. Wouldn't the 80's just drain my phone battery though? I have a pair of Jaybird X3's for my phone, and they do a decent job at being portable and have decent sound. I think I might go with the 250's... I just don't see why for a set of desktop headphones I'd drop any possible quality for my budget, and the Mono DAC/amp can take 600 ohms, so I'm definitely not pushing it too far. Any other reasons why the 80's are a better option?
  5. Well you all seem to know what you're talking about. What would you guys recommend then? the 250 or 80 ohm version? and with what DAC/amp? I'd like all of your inputs. (or maybe even a different pair of headphones?!, I'm pretty set on these :/)
  6. are you sure? I've been told by a few people and my friend that higher ohm cans will always give better sound and greater clarity. For virtually the same price, why not go for the 250's?
  7. I think you're correct, it's referring to the total harmonic distortion of the DAC/amp at that frequency range (which is human hearing). Thanks! I'll add this one to the list of potential purchases.
  8. Oh, I thought I had read that there is a desktop app with further controls. Upon further researching, there is some mobile app, nothing to do with desktop audio. But it looks pretty good otherwise. Thanks for the recommendation! But, I have one question, the DT770's offer a 5Hz-35000Hz frequesnce response, why does this DAC/amp offer +- 0.2dB 20Hz-20kHz. Is this anything significant?
  9. by "monoprice", you're referring to this? And I'm pretty sure about these headphones, but like I said, I'm going to try out my buddy's DT990's before. Also, the DT770's have an 80 ohm version, would I be better off with that, to my understanding higher ohm is usually clearer, right?
  10. I listen to EDM and some 80's rock. My friends owns the DT990's, and I'm going to listen to them one more time before deciding. I know that open-back gives a broader sound stage, but I definitely want closed-backs to keep my music to myself. Also, I have a crappy motherboard so no chance running anything on-board
  11. looks good, but this DAC/amp runs with a desktop app? And I'm fine with any DAC/amp as long as it gives me the quality that the headphones are meant to output (to my understanding, DAC's can change the freq. response and sample rates of heaphones?)
  12. So I am a total noob to audio hardware, and I only have just recently learned about impedance and frequency response and DACs and amps and all the very basics about audio. I'm looking to upgrade from some Logitech G633's into a proper set of headphones, and I need some recommendations/guidance about where I should be putting my money. I'm currently looking at a pair of Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm headphones, and I need a DAC or amp (or both? I'm very new to this, sorry) that can handle these headphones. I have read the "Before you buy amp and DAC + recommendations" by Dackzy, but I'd just like a bit more direct input about what I need. My budget is in the ballpark of $120US for the DAC/amp, but I guess I can go higher if it's necessary. Thanks! -Taters
  13. Thanks for the suggestion. However, what is the difference between a B250 mobo or a Z270 or Z170 motherboard? Is the ability to overclock the only difference?
  14. Yeah, I definitely had a Ryzen 5 in mind but I wasn't too sure
  15. Hey guys, So I'm going to be doing an Intel CPU / Mobo upgrade to my rig in a few months here, but I have a dilemma. I currently have an FX-8350 w/ a cheap ASUS M5A97 LE R2.0, and 16GB of G.Skill Sniper DDR3 (4x4GB). Since I already have a decent kit of DDR3, should I stick with Haswell in my upgrade and go with an lga1150 mobo and an i5 4690k? OR Should I shoot for a full Kaby Lake upgrade and pick up a kit of 16GB of DDR4 / lga 1151 mobo along with maybe an i5 7600k? My budget is around 500 or so My profile has full build information if needed Thanks!
  16. I'm looking for the best RGB Lighting Strip for my case, or to mount around my desk for a cool touch to my setup. Thoughts? I've already taken a look at the NZXT Hue+ and the CableMod Strips.
  17. @johnny5c I just got a new stove hood installed, but that's on the other side of the house. Surely that wouldn't have anything to do with them, as this has been happening before we installed that. Also, the router isn't too far from the adapters, my room is practically above the router. @Emmien No new heating, fridge or any other major electrical installments other than what I said above... Also, the antennas are just plastic dongles that have no actual improvement, so I took them off.
  18. Hello! So I am under the impression that my powerline ethernet adapter is not providing the speeds it should be. I'm using a pair of TP-Link AV600 Powerline Adapters (http://www.tp-link.us/products/details/cat-5509_TL-PA6010KIT.html) Anyways, I have it hooked up to my main router downstairs, and then coming out of a socket in my room, and into another router (also in my room, running as an Access Point). My PC is then hooked up to the router. (You'll see pics down below) I'm having issues because in my room I normally get 60mb/s (down) from the adapter, and for the past week I'm only getting about 10-15 down. (THIS IS MAKING IT HARD TO DOWNLOAD BF1) I also get 10-15mb/s (down) when the powerline cable is plugged directly into my pc, not through the router When directly wired into my main router downstairs, I get the 125mb/s I should get (and pay for) I have posted a few screenshots and pics down below of how I have my setup configured, and my speedtest. Nobody else is on the Powerline network except for myself. Why are my speeds 10-15 and not the 60 (or more) that I'm used to? I've tried everything and I'm not sure if i just have some faulty adapters? I've had them for a year or two. Thanks! -Collin Speedtest - https://gyazo.com/845465b90b0615ef996f3206da099891 Excuse the cable mess
  19. Lately I've been running into problems with Logitech Gaming Software. (We'll call it LGS) I have the latest version of LGS installed. Yet it refuses to open I open the program, and nothing pops up on screen, but when I check task manager, the program "Logitech Gaming Framework" Is running and using about 13% CPU Usage. It will let me open multiple instances of "Logitech Gaming Framework" until my computer is maxed out. This is especially annoying because I then can't get 7.1 Dolby Surround on my Logitech G633s. I am also using a Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury which has not experienced any issues. Here are some things I've tried 1. Restart Computer (lol) 2. Re-Install LGS 3. Install older versions of LGS that still support my headset (Logitech G633s) 4. Mess with pretty much everything possible in windows sound and playback properties 5. Mess with different frequencies in windows sound 6. Get 7.1 surround sound enabled through windows sound (This worked temporarily, then the option disappeared) Thank you!!! Let me know if you need anymore info ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ My Specs CPU- AMD FX-8350, 8 Cores, 4.0GHz Cooling - CM Hyper 212 EVO MotherBoard- ASUS M5A97 LE R2.0 (AM3+) RAM - 16GB (4x4GB) G-Skill Sniper Series 1600Mhz DDR3 GPU- MSI GTX 760 Storage- 2 WD Blue HDDs WD10EZEX 1TB 7200RPM 64MB Cache PSU- Corsair CX600 600W Power Supply Semi-Modular OS- Windows 10 Home Edition (64-Bit) Headset- Logitech G633 7.1 RGB Keyboard- Corsair K70 RED Mouse- Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  20. Yes, but it'll be a little bit before i can get hands on my brothers laptop. I'll let you know! Thanks
  21. Yeah, But the only support is USB to PC. Meaning that the 3.5mm only works with mobile, Xbox and PS4 I could get a adapter possibly? or maybe like attach a ferrite bead to the cable to block other interference?
  22. So I was looking for a new headset, and I watched Luke's review of the Logitech G633s before PAX, so I picked up a pair. However, lately I've been having some problems. While doing some basics tasks like gaming or watching a video (*Shoutout to youtube's restricted mode "enabled" crap) I seem to get crackling through the speakers. It's hard to explain, it just sounds like distorted audio feed through everything. I am (obviously) on PC and I only use the USB cable, and occasionally the 3.5mm input also through my phone. It's kinda a vague description, but I don't know how to explain it... It happens every once in a while and it usually lasts in short bursts or constant for a few moments. I use Logitech gaming software 8.74.80, and I have tried switching to every version in between it and 8.56... The problem persists if i'm using Dolby 7.1, DTS headphone X, or just no surround sound. I've also tried switching USB ports and a few other things but otherwise I'm helpless. Running Windows 10 64-Bit. ANY HELP APPRECIATED! If you need specs for some reason just check my profile
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