Coaxialgamer

Asrock probably hasn't updated their product page to reflect CPU support for the 5000 series. My own board's product page didn't explicitly mention 5000-series support either beyond the BIOS update support notes. I would have bee, concerned if a few 5000-series chips were listed, but the fact that none of them just points to an out of date spec sheet.

An APU build should allow you to get decent entry level gaming performance on the cheap. I wouldn't try to fit a discrete GPU into a new £500 build though. 1080p monitors can be had for cheap on virtually every used marketplace out there. A quick search on my local option gets me quite a few hits for well under 50 euro, so you'll have options there. As for OS, while it is technically "grey market", you can find windows license keys online for 20USD give or take. Something like this can be had for around £350: PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/7b6xMb CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor (£114.80 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: ASRock A520M-HDV Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£57.32 @ CCL Computers) Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (£42.00 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Kingston NV2 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£50.95 @ CCL Computers) Case: Deepcool MATREXX 30 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£29.99 @ Scan.co.uk) Power Supply: SeaSonic CORE GC-500 500 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£44.99 @ Scan.co.uk) Total: £340.05 Definitely not the most forward-facing build, but with a decent APU it should be capable of handling most popular titles at reasonable settings. Feel free to throw in a hard drive if you think 1TB isn't enough. Went A520 instead of B450 in order to ensure compatibility, but if you already have an older ryzen cpu on hand or are feeling brave that could be an option.

You can get a 6800 or 6800XT for that price. A 3070 or 3070ti may be doable but will be weaker in games that don't support RTX/DLSS

What is your buget?

The future of 12pin hpwr is uncertain imo. Get a normal decent unit.

You're way overspending on CPU for a gaming rig: even an 8 core part is part is probably overkill if you're not explicitly planning to use those cores. Also, why two SSDs? If you want something for holding games and other large software/files, a cheaper drive (NVME, SATA or even a hard drive) is definitely a better value than something as high-perf as a 970. Additionally, if you want 4K you might want more horsepower than a 3070ti can provide, and nearly 700 for one of those cards is frankly too much imo. Other cards in similar price or performance classes are better values at this point. Something like this might be a better option: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9hWB3y If you want, you can apply the following tweaks: swap out the 4070ti for a 7900xt if you feel you don't particularly care for dlss or rtx... ...or pick up a 6800/6800xt for way less save 10$ by going for a 7700 over a 7700x, or 10$ by choosing a 7600. Just turn PBO on on those non-x chips. you can even go cheaper on storage if you desire

The C2070 is basically the server version of the GTX480. It's entirely underpowered in comparison to a 570. Tesla cards are basically regular Nvidia workstation GPUs that have been stripped of video outputs. They're meant to handle compute GPGPU workloads. They are neither a replacement for CPUs or regular GPUs, even though there are workarounds to allow them to act as GPUs. In any case, it doesn't have any video outputs and the vast majority of software (let alone games) isn't coded to support coprocessors. You're better off saving your money and getting an upgrade. Your warzone issues sound like they're a result of a very slow hdd. You might want to get 8gb of ram too.

The P12s are pressure optimized fans, so they're well suited to being used with a radiator, making them a decent choice here. It would have been more concerning if you had airflow-optimized fans as a replacement.

Got myself a used RX 6800 from Sapphire ! Bit whiney but at 380 euro shipped that's nearly half of what a new one costs here.

I mean if you really want to be safe I'd suggest removing it and putting it in checked luggage. Other than that it's not an obvious fluid container and it's sealed, so it's probably fine. Just keep in mind that a lot of this stuff is to the individual TSA officer's discretion.

Aside from a vegue ressemblance due to the haircut, that's not him.

You want your radiator to be intake. Given the relative heat output of something like a 3080 to a typical CPU, if you use your rad as an exhaust you'll be cooling your CPU with hot GPU air. Using it as an intake means using hot CPU air on your GPU, but once again the lower output of a CPU means it won't be heated up nearly as much. Radiator placement also means you're feeding air directly to the GPU. You're also unlikely to be maxing a CPU while gaming. It is generally preferable to have slightly positive air pressure in your case (because that way dust doesn't get in easily), so I'd probably have the top fans as intake as well, with bottom fans and the front fan being exhaust.

Don't have anything specific to post, but I spent the last week shopping for used GPUs in 300-400 EUR price class (RX 6700XT, RTX 3070, RX6800 and the odd 3080) and found many people who seemed to believe that they could sell their cards for pandemic prices. I mean one guy was expecting to sell his 3080 for 1100 EUR because he'd payed like 2 grand on it the year prior (when cards like that regularly go for around 500 on this particular site). You made the choice to buy hardware at the worst possible time, with heavily inflated prices, fully knowing that prices would eventually drop back to normal, but now that they are you expect to sell your cards for over MSRP?

The 4590 is rated for 3.3GHz base, 3.7GHz boost. Boost frequencies will be reached when power and thermals allow, and that's usually the case for all but intensive compute workloads (usually with AVX) or rigs with inadequate coolers, neither of which seems to be the case here. You could disable it in the BIOS, but I don't see why you would considering it's completetely expected behaviour.

Both the card and the monitor have DP1.4 on it, so that card should be perfectly capable of displaying windows at that resolution. That said you're looking at nearly as many pixels as 4K/UHD, so actually rendering 3D graphics at that resolution will be more game-dependent (expect performance in line with 4K gaming performance for that card).

Putting an airtag or some other gps-tracking device in a hidden location (eg the drive bays, or behind your "back" side-panel (the one that opens up to cable management space) is one way to keep track of your PC. On a slightly different note, the fact that you don't trust your roommate not to pawn off your expensive computer raises some serious red flags...

That would depend on what your budget is and what your expectations are for such a cooler.

A bit of a watercooling noob to be perfectly honest, but why have seperate CPU/GPU loops? The way I see it you're leaving cooling capacity on the table if you were ever to hammer one particular component at a time instead of both, and any degree of redundancy you might have from having two pumps is lost because you're not running them concurrently on a single loop. I'm assuming you made that choice for a reason, I'm just curious as to what your thought process was.

Ideally you want to use an antistatic bag (those clear-ish plastic sleeves the cards were wrapped in) to ship anything senstive like that (though I have actually shipped and received hardware that wasn't in an ESD bag multiple times without issue, but I guess your mileage may vary). Once that's done, you just want to pack it like any other fragile object: use plenty of bubble wrap, newspaper and/or foam to cushion any blows the box may suffer while in transit and ship.

Use DP if possible. My own 1080p 144Hz monitor uses HDMI 1.4 in addition to regular DP1.2 and DVI, and while 1080p 120Hz is actually within the HDMI 1.4 spec my monitor won't allow me to go past 60Hz as long as I'm using HDMI, with the full 144Hz only being accessible with DP.

If anything, that system will be more efficient: peak efficiency is around 50% usage, which you'll be closer to with that RMX1000 unit. Efficiency is only a concern if you were running a 200W system with a 1000W PSU or something, and even then more powerful units tend to have higher baseline efficiency anyway. Component sizing means you'll also get a longer lasting, quieter-running unit too. Go for it.

Having different RAM ICs might hurt stuff like overclocking potential but it'll generally work, at the very least at JEDEC speeds. These still adhere to the DDR4 standard. Had mixed Micron and SK Hynix DDR3 in my last system without issue (now have 4 Micron sticks) and the sticks ran at their rated speed just fine.

IMO you should probably go for used hardware at this price, given how wacky GPU pricing is. The 6500XT is on the cusp of being too low-end for its own good (and isn't worth it 165 USD pricetag). Maybe not for everything (a new PSU and SSD/HDD are probably advisable)., but most of the performance-orientated components can probably be had for a far better value on the used market. Something like a 5600x or 3600x coupled with a 2070 would be a lot faster and just as expensive if not cheaper.