Aniallation

Is anyone here running a 2600/2600X with say a Hyper 212/Gammaxx 400 and can chime in on your temps? I recently upgraded from a 1200 to a 2600X and retained my Gammaxx GT RGB, which supposedly performs about the same if not slightly better than a 212 Evo, and applied new MX4. Idle sits around 38-40c and under p95 sits around 73c-75c. Are these normal temps for this setup? I don't remember what temperatures I got before with my 1200 @ 3.9GHz/1.4V when I ran the same tests, but I don't remember load temps being this high even though it was a lower power CPU.

This topic has been brought up repeatedly for like a decade lol, at the end of the day it always boils down to so many variables such as your case layout and most of all your own preference. Personally, I just dislike the look of AIOs and prefer an air cooler.

Not necessarily. It's actually more likely that the nicer B450 boards will end up supporting Zen 3 anyways. B350 aren't supposed to support Zen 2 officially, but even my rather low-end B350M Gaming Pro still worked perfect after throwing in a 3600 and the latest BIOS.

You'll get a bit more performance in CPU-heavy games (especially single-threaded) and definitely an improvement in CPU-heavy workloads. The more important thing though moving up to a Zen (2) chip is that it will allow you for an upgrade path to a better GPU in the future without bottlenecking. The 9700 is fine with a 550, but if you do want to move up to something better, you'll want a better CPU too.

Don't sweat it too much. It's still more than enough power to accompany a 570.

Really proud of AMD. Made the switch over from Intel back in the day when I bought my Athlon X2 when all my friends got Pentium D's and 4HT's that couldn't dare to keep up. Still stuck with them when nobody believed in them anymore, bought my Phenom X6, and watched the FX series crumble, hoping and believing that one day they'd regain they'd regain their fame once again. Looking back now at how they fell, they made a hell of a comeback.

If you were somehow able to magically make it work on the hardware side, it would work because Android itself is designed to scale to different resolutions and densities. It would be fine if you were AOSP. However, any custom UI such as HTC Sense will not scale properly as the specific build for your device was designed for the particular resolution and density of that device.

I would at least wait for the next, if not two generations. 4-series on desktop may just end up being a "facelift" Zen 2 that won't add that much, versus what a future Zen 3 would likely improve on.

A recent model used card will pretty much always be better value than a new card. I picked up a used RX480 8GB for $150 CAD ($115 USD) and for that price definitely not going to get anything brand new that performs remotely near as well.

The ulefone has a pretty weak CPU, it'd be a hard pass on that from me. Aside from the size, which is purely personal, I'd take the Note 4 over the OPX.

I bought a $30 replacement screen of Amazon for my 6S and haven't had any issues with it. If I were to be picky there is a slightly bigger gap between the glass and the actual LCD, but I don't notice any difference between the replacement and the original in terms of touch responsiveness or colors, and I never use 3D touch so I didn't try. However, it is true that you will have to move over your old home button assembly, and that was a bit of a chore, mostly making sure not to break it removing it from the old panel assembly.

Aside from how it's getting unbanned, Honor is a subbrand of Huawei so if they were to reinstate the ban Honor is affected as well. Idk, even during the period of the ban I bought a P30 Lite and I'm still really happy with it.

Using the latest BIOS as well, if that makes a difference.

I noticed something weird on my MSI B350M Gaming Pro motherboard. Using the BIOS, I can only overclock my Ryzen 3 1200 to 3.7GHz, if I try for higher and set the CPU ratio to 38 it just won't POST at all, even with bumping up the voltage. However, using programs in Windows like AMD Ryzen Master or MSI's own Command Center software, I can get it to 3.9GHz stable at 1.35V (and probably higher but I'd like to not have to raise voltage more). Is there a reason my board will just refuse to POST with the ratio set higher than 37 via the BIOS? Seems kind of weird.

That's about what they go for here too, you can pick up a 480 4GB for about 100-120 CAD. Just decided that for 150 I could pick up the 8GB version instead which also had a better cooler + nicer backplate and wasn't used for mining. It's a great case especially for the price, I'm very happy with it. Real tempered glass side panel, lots of space for cable management, PSU shroud, and just generally feels good to work with, no sharp edges or anything like that. Even includes a magnetic dust filter for the top. The two fans that come with it work decently well but feel awful, they flex like cardboard, probably replacing them at some point but that's my only gripe. Canada so no Microcenter

I play mostly beamng drive, Forza horizon 3/4, and that's about it at the moment. Don't really have that much time for games haha, but CPU is the first planned upgrade in the near future

So I've not been present on the forum as I used to be a while ago, and not because I went somewhere else but things ended up changing in life and I just didn't have time to put into heavily keeping up with PC culture in the over few years. I've still been somewhat looking at things occasionally but been pretty out of the loop and clearly nobody misses me haha. Anyways after long enough sticking with my HP SFF i5-2400 system it finally started to really show its age. A low profile GTX 1050 was able to hold me off on upgrading for a bit, but then I started running into problems with having just 2GB of VRAM. So with not a whole lot to spend on a PC I set out to see what I could piece together with cheap and used parts. Build parts and costs Ryzen 3 1200 and MSI B450M Gaming Pro motherboard: $100 - used Deepcool Gamaxx GT cooler - $40 - New 16GB Team Elite DDR4 RAM: $50 - used Kingston V300 240GB SSD and 320GB HDD: removed from old PC MSI RX 480 8GB Gaming X: $150 - used Seasonic S12II 500W PSU: $30 - used Cooler Master MasterBox NR400 case: $70 - New Deepcool RF120M RGB LED fan: $10 - New Wireless card: $20 - New Total cost: $470 (Canadian dollars, so about $360 USD) Well at least now I can have a PC that is aesthetically pleasing to look at, can render videos better than the HP that barely did real-time speed at 480p, and can run the occasional games I play like beamng drive at decent frame rates. I've never had a problem with buying used components which really saved me a lot on this build, and I usually recommend to my friends to try the same too. I do plan to upgrade the CPU in the future to a 2700 or 3600 but that's something I'll have to save up towards. For the time being it works great, CPU at 3.9GHz 1.35v stable and GPU at 1380MHz stable.

You will need a supported processor first to update the BIOS before you can use a 3rd gen.

Built one was dynoed at 198whp at 9psi but still working on it. Yes they are the same engine just with a turbo kit. The FS-ZE is high compression, the FS-DE isn't that high and is fine for mild boost though the rods are weak. 8psi is the highest you should do on stock internals for reliability.

Mmm, maybe lol The weak point of the motors are rods, after that the diff likes to break in half from the ring gear, that's about all that goes wrong. Factory tune sucks ass, open loop does not occur until after 4000rpm or 3sec of 100% load, meaning that if you do hard pulls from below 4k you have a 3 second period where the car stays at stoich which is stupid lean considering you can reach full boost way before it switches over. Not a huge deal every now and then, but if you bag on the car and do this continuously it's the cause of most engine failures. The all orange one (Jax) has a redone motor with forged rods and pistons, clevite bearings, balanced crank and ported head, FMIC, revised diff tig welded to the ring, etc. and is currently running 11psi due to limitations of stock injectors and it being untuned. My SSFTC is already in, and I have injectors on the way, so that'll be a thing soon. Will do 15 lbs reliably and that's more than enough for me. Grey one (Arca) has a 626 manifold and Street Unit SMIC, running 10psi peak 8psi constant. Works fine, 200k miles and still runs like a dream. The others are stock.

I like the Mazdaspeeds specifically, unique cars that you rarely ever see (only 4500 produced) yet still common enough that most of what you'll ever break can be found in junkyards. Slow, unrefined, loud, mediocre ride quality; but amazing handling that makes them very fun to zip around during your daily commute, makes lots of stupid turbo noises, and great on gas. I started the first one I got (the all-orange one) as a project over the last two summers as something to play with, toying around with some performance mods as a learning experience. Now has a forged motor and fully redone suspension, just waiting on a few other things coming this summer like injectors and maybe a bigger turbo. However though it became too harsh (low and loud) to drive as a daily especially in the winter, so I picked up the grey one (mostly stock) to drive around without destroying my back. Then came the orange one with the black hood, which is just a parts car with a hole in the block. Just got the yellow a month ago so the gf can have one too... it needs work Another one may be joining us soon...

If you're planning to OC (at some point) and get the most out of the unlocked i5, save up for a new case that will fit a decent cooler rather than blowing money on something to squeeze into that narrow case with rather meh airflow. Stock cooler is definitely enough to keep you going for now at stock speeds.

Check all connections especially between battery and alternator, battery to ground, and alternator to block. Signal plug on alternator as well, I've seen them get water into them and cake up. ALT fuse if there is one. You can try to remove the connections clean them and put them back on to get rid of as much corrosion and chance of intermittent connection as possible. If all that's good, the regulator or diode pack in the alternator itself may be loose or dying.