fozbear

So, power surge came through As it stands, with the power supply on, the 'START' light is lit, but no action when pressed, nor the front panel button. USB ports are also still powered. Thus I think the power supply is ok. This then leaves the motherboard as the faulty/dead component to be replaced. Does this sound right? Major Components: i7-4770k ASUS Maximus VI Impact GTX670 Corsair AX 760 Cheers everyone.

Hi everyone, Currently in the process of building my new rig, and am struggling over what fans to use. It's a red and black colour scheme in a BitFenix Prodigy Warrior and using a Maximus VI Impact. In my (currently half built) design, I have a top mounted 140mm radiator and a front mounted 120mm radiator. The main requirement thus is to choose fans that are, a) available in both 120mm and 140mm sizes, b) static pressure optimised and c) fits within the colour scheme. The best option I have so far is the Noctua NF-F12 and NF-A14, but this comes at the expense of the colour scheme. The next best option to that is (so far as I can tell) the Noiseblocker Black Silent Pro's, but are slightly less performing than the Noctua's. Thus I think the question is, performance vs colour scheme preservation, which one takes the cake?

Yeah, that's super duper feasible. The prodigy comes in the box with a 200mm front fan and a rear 140mm and also has an optical bay. They only main considerations are graphics card length and CPU cooler height. Most graphics cards should be fine, unless you want to use lots of hard drives. Either way, something like the ASUS DirectCU Mini cards might be your best option. You should also probably get a low profile CPU cooler, although larger ones will fit. Noctua does a great one of these , the NH-L12.

It'll be close, but it should.

Hey everyone, thought I'd post up what I've done so far on my new build. It's going to be pretty slow from here on in as I'm basically buying parts paycheck by paycheck, so I hope you'll hang in there with me! I've always wanted to build something small, but at the same time a build that is not compromised because of that size. Now more than ever, I really don't see the point of having a full size ATX build unless you have a shitload of hard drives in your case or for some stupid reason you've invested in a 4 way crossfire/sli graphics array. Rant aside, that's my philosophy for this build: small, powerful and hopefully no compromises. Before I start, big shout out to fellow Aussie Singularity Computers. Many things in my build are based on one he did a while back, so go check out and subscribe to his YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/SingularityComputers/ So, here's my list of major components: i7-4770k BitFenix Prodigy Warrior ASUS Maximus VI Impact Corsair AX760 PSU EK-DDC XRES 140 CSQ Acetal Pump and Res Combo Alphacool ST30 240mm rad Alphacool ST30 280mm rad UN Designs Z2 Bracket Mayhems Pastel Red Coolant Koolance 140mmx2 Fan Shroud 2 x Modsmart 140mm Fan Grills Primochill Rigid Acrylic Tubing - Clear and Compression Fittings - Black EK Supremacy Nickel Acetal CSQ CPU Block EK-FC670 Nickel Acetal Full Cover Block EK-FC670 GTX Backplate Palit GTX-670 Jetstream Custom power cable supplies (16AWG wire, appropriate pins, sockets, ect., red and black paracord I don't have all of the stuff above yet, most notably a CPU and PSU, and also much of the water cooling stuff, but here's what I have so far: First step, strip out the case. All the hard drive bays and the optical bay have to go. First mod is the IO. In the standard case it is located in the side panel, but because I don't like it in the side panel and I want to put a window there anyway, I'm moving it into the front of the case. However, the radiator that will be in the front will be in the way for the most part, so I decided to get a jiffy box, put the IO in that and mount it underneath the case. To make this more simple, I reused the existing PCB the IO came on. The only mods I had to do was cut it down to fit into the jiffy box, and I also desoldered the existing power and reset buttons to make way for a new one. So far, this is what I have: And somewhat how it will be placed: I still have to cut the holes in the front of the box and wire up and mount the new power switch. Once the holes have been cut the PCB can be moved one slot forward in the box so the IO ports are in line with the front of the box. At the same time, I've started the side panel window mods. As you can see, I've masked them both up and drawn on the size of the hole and acrylic to be put behind it. My plan is to bolt the acrylic onto the panel with two M4 bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom. That's all for now. Hopefully, I'll update before the end of the weekend sometime, but now I'm off to vote so I don't have to stand in a queue on Saturday, get some acrylic cut to size and go hunt down some black M4 bolts for the windows and the top radiator shroud.

Not sure what exactly blew up, I could only tell one of the wires leading from a plug pin was detached in the explosion. As you said, it looked all intact apart from that it had blown itself apart.

Nah its just a cheap $1 ebay power supply, 12V 1A, drawing the same so no overload.

Thankfully no, safety switch did its job

Had this powerpack under my desk, powering some LED strip. Sitting at my desk, then BANG and everything turns off (safety switch turned off). When the lights came back on this is what I found. The explosion was so powerful it blew the housing apart, and itself off the powerboard in the process. Powerful enough to break the plastic surrounding the two screws. On each side of the screw it's about 2mm thick. So, lesson learnt. DO NOT SKIMP ON QUALITY AND BUY CHEAP POWER SUPPLIES, as tempting as it can be when you're a poor uni student like me :/ Always buy a safety certified branded product.

Had this since the new interface rolled out, and still there. Quite a handy feature really.

You can get HDMI to ethernet adaptors, such as this one here http://www.radioparts.com.au/product/07351020/hdmic6-hdmi-over-dual-cat6-extender-45m--1080p---pro2 They are used for long distance HDMI runs because ethernet cable is cheap and easy to permanently install and suffers no signal degradation. I've installed them before in dedicated home theatre rooms, auditoriums, assembly halls, ect where the distance from the source to the projector can be 50+ metres.

You'll be fine for that length. HDMI usually only begins to degrade after about 10-20 metres, which is why cables of that length often include a repeater and are uni-directional. Beyond that, HDMI over ethernet is preferred because there is no signal degradation using ethernet cable and it is cheaper and easier to run ethernet cable than HDMI.

All Blue mic's are really good quality, so I'd go with something like that.

Sound card: ASUS Xonar Essence ST or STX Depends on how much you want to spend, both are really good. I would recommend getting headphones with a separate mic as compared to a headset, because for the price the sound quality will be far greater. Something like the AKG K240 MkII is probably quite good for you as it has a slightly heavier than flat ass response and a semi-open back design which will make it good for gaming and music. All depends on price though. Something like a ModMic would go well with this, although personally I use a desk mounted recording mic because once again, the audio quality will be far better. As for speakers, I will always prefer studio monitors (I personally use KRK Rokit RP5's) for the sound quality, but if its for gaming something with a subwoofer would be probably preferable and most likely monitors are out of your price range.

I have Telstra cable, which I have never had any problems with over the years. It is a bit more expensive than ADSL from other providers, but for the speeds and bandwidth is definitely worth it, especially for gaming. This is in Melbourne.