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KingPizza

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  • Posts

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System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 5800x
  • Motherboard
    AsRock X570S PG Riptide
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws 2x16GB DDR4 4000 CL16
  • GPU
    AMD RX6800 XT Midnight Black
  • Case
    Lian Li O11 Air Mini - White
  • Storage
    Sabrent Rocket PCIe 4.0 1TB / ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB
  • PSU
    NZXT C 850w Gold
  • Cooling
    Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. I'm having a difficult time finding a company/website that makes extensions for mobo rear I/O to the front of a custom case. I just need the rear ports on my mobo to be accessible from the front of a case I'm building. The closest I could find to a complete solution are drive bay inserts, but those all have random things I don't need like USB 2.0 and card readers. I could get individual extensions for each port I need, but I don't have a 3D printer to make a custom bracket, so I don't know how I'd attach them to the front. If anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated.
  2. OP, you'll be happy with either of the systems proposed here. I do believe mine has more longevity, but Queen's is 90% the performance for a few hundred less. Only you can decide which is more worth it. Or perhaps we compromise and make a new list all together: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pDVxTn With an air cooler, the Air Mini can fit 2 140's on the top, front, and bottom, for 6 total, and a rear 120. It's also an adjustable case that can be configured to fit micro-ATX and Mini-ITX mobo's. I stand by this case. The other changes are to scale back my list, but add roughly $100 in upgrades to Queen's. A faster NVMe, slightly faster RAM, a better GPU, sticking with Z690 for a more robust feature set, and a more capable air cooler. I don't claim to be any kind of expert on this stuff. It's clear Queen is much more knowledged than I, so I will let them respond to this post and leave it at that.
  3. The 5 pack was sold out when I checked, so I added in the amount that will fit in the case. I currently have this case and can verify that 140s indeed fit on the top, although they do not fit on the bottom when an AIO is installed in the front, so that's my bad. I didn't say AIO's last longer. I simply meant they perform better on higher end CPU's. Any performance/temp chart will show you even the NH-D15 can't keep up with the best AIO's on the market. What if they want to upgrade to a 12900k down the line? A $35 air cooler would barely keep it from throttling at idle. They certainly have the budget to keep that in mind. The point of a DDR5 board now is so they can upgrade with better, faster DDR5 down the road when it's cheaper and faster. Your list is fine, but you're cutting corners you don't need to be with a budget like this. I completely agree that $3,500 is completely unnecessary, but getting an F instead of a K? To me, that's just budget nit-picking that doesn't need to happen.
  4. There's been TONS of hate for DDR5, and I personally believe this is going to bottleneck future upgradeability. If your primary goal is a system that will last you for at least 4 or 5 years, I would just invest in the top of the line now so upgrading is easier later. That means a DDR5 Mobo and an AIO that can cool a beefier CPU, even if you don't start with one. Here is my recommendations. Note that at the time I made this list, the 6900XT MSI Gaming Trio was the same price as the 3080 from other lists. Just get the best video card for the money. This one is only a couple hundred more than Queen's and I believe it'll be better performance for longer. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wgN8PX
  5. As the user above suggested, make sure you have a good grasp of how to build a PC before trying to work with new, expensive parts. It would suck to break something.
  6. For future reference, you can link a PCPartPicker list instead of writing it all out. Here's yours all together on the list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nQyzpH Here are the changes I would suggest making: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Zg3Dnt I changed pretty much everything. 11th gen Intel is something you should avoid at all costs. The 12600k is a very good gaming CPU. You don't need a super beefy CPU cooler to cool it, so a cheaper tower cooler is going to give you similar results for less noise. 12th gen Intel calls for a new Mobo, and this one is around the same price range. DDR5 is a nice to have for future proofing. The HDD should be at least 7200RPM, and you can get A LOT more SSD for the money. You'll be much happier with a 1TB NVMe. The 4000D airflow is a fine case, keeping it. I would recommend at least a Gold certified PSU, just for peace of mind. And lastly, the Corsair fans are nice, but WAY overpriced. Arctic fans are just as good, if not better, for less than half the price. The updated list doesn't include a GPU, but you can pretty much just use whatever you can get your hands on. The price between the lists is the same when not factoring in the GPU.
  7. Just to make sure we're on the same page, you tested the system without the GPU or any extra drives installed? And it still eventually crashed?
  8. If you want the RGB version, yes, that one is correct. 12th gen Intel and LGA 1700 are new enough that pretty much any recommended cooler on the market is going to need new hardware for it. Yes, it's a gamble you'll have to take. If the version you get doesn't have it, Arctic will definitely send you one for free. The H150i is exactly the same way.
  9. I was not aware of these. The RIG 800 Pro looks like a great choice which I might consider.
  10. The kit that I linked should still work fine. It's only 2 DIMMs and runs slower than 6000MHz. If you still want to go with something slower then that's fine. Here is a kit: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/z3pzK8/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-5200-cl28-memory-f5-5200j2834f16gx2-rs5k
  11. This is a much better build. The 5000X is a lot more reasonable and I think you'll be happy sticking with a smaller, and more consistent, form factor. eATX can get confusing because there is no standard size between manufacturers. The Corsair H150i is a fine AIO, and you'll probably be just fine using it, but I still want to try to convince you there are better alternatives. For any given PC hardware category, there will always be a handful of truly trusted manufacturers. For RAM, that's G.Skill, Corsair, Kingston, and Crucial. For CPU coolers/AIOs, that list includes NZXT, Corsair, Noctua, Be Quiet, Arctic, and Cooler Master, with a few others brands following close behind. I don't claim to know a ton about EVERYTHING in a PC, but CPU cooling is something I've done LOTS of research on. I still recommend either the Liquid Freezer II 280mm, or 360mm. Here are some reviews to help convince you. Again, you'll probably be fine getting the H150i, and I don't mean to be an annoying broken record on this matter, so this will be the last time I'll mention it.
  12. Putting the coils in the headband for wireless charging on a stand would probably be the ideal solution, but yeah, it would most likely take some serious R&D to come out with an elegant product.
  13. These symptoms wouldn't point me to thermal issues. Try to run the system as bare bones as possible to see if the symptoms persist. Remove the GPU and all drives/peripherals except for the boot drive, and only insert 1 stick of RAM. Have power plugged in to the 24-pin atx, the 8-pin cpu, and the single boot drive. Plug your monitor in to the onboard HDMI. It probably wouldn't hurt to reapply and reseat the CPU cooler as well to remove that as a variable. If the problem persists, I personally would make sure the BIOS is updated, and then reinstall Windows to remove the possibility of driver conflicts. On the fresh install, add the GPU back in and update chipset and video drivers. If the problem STILL persists, it's a hardware issue. It's either the mobo, CPU, or PSU. These are hard to diagnose without replacement parts.
  14. It's crazy that this thread is over a year old and started as an innocent tech request, and ballooned into a full on conspiracy. Until I saw this, I was confused why my system would sometimes micro stutter while watching YouTube videos with another browser tab open or playing games. I'm going to test turning off fTPM to see if that fixes the issue. I'm on an AsRock X570S PG Riptide running Windows 11.
  15. I don't know much about custom water cooling, but I doubt those parts should look that bad after only a year, especially if every part is copper and there's no aluminum in the loop. Did you use the coolant that came with the kit?
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