Melt My GPU

1080p won't scale up perfectly as if it were a 24" 1080p monitor, no, but the P2415Q does a very good job of scaling so you probably won't be too bothered by it.

I would try to get another one with the same size and resolution so Windows will remain the same size moving from one monitor to another. Getting another ips panel would be a good idea as well since you won't be looking at them both strait on simultaneously and colour shifting looks really bad when looking from one end of your set up to another.

I don't remember the last time I heard of under-volting something hurting it, so you should be just fine.

No problem, good luck with the build.

Yeah just get a bit of a better/ bigger supply for upgrades down the road if he ever wants to. I would also recommend upgrading to Windows 8.1 as soon as possible. Many games don't even run on Vista. Looks like the prices you have are the best you are going to find.

Thank you very much Melt My GPU, will be getting those

In Australia, the XSPC Raystorm CPU block is much cheaper than the others and is heavily used here on the forums. It has a great review from Martin's liquid lab. Really water blocks are about aesthetics, they all perform close to each other. Other good brands are EK, Swiftech, Watercool and Koolance. Pick whichever looks best and try to aim for similar metals

AMD released developer documentation for a new processor it's working on, and the way it's worded describes a chip with 8 modules, working out to 16 cores, on a single piece of silicon, referred to as Family 15h Models 30h - 3fh. This is not to be confused with the company's Opteron 6300-series "Abu Dhabi" chips, which are multi-chip modules of two 8-core dies, in the G34 package. 
 

 
What's more, unlike the current "Abu Dhabi" and "Seoul" chips, the new silicon features a full-fledged uncore, complete with a PCI-Express gen 3.0 root complex that's integrated into the processor die. In what's more proof that it's a single die with 8 modules and not an MCM of two dies with 4 modules each, the document describes the die as featuring four HyperTransport links; letting it pair with four other processors in 4P multi-socket configurations. Such systems would feature a total core count of 64. There's no clarity on which exact micro-architecture the CPU modules are based on. Without doubt, AMD is designing this chip for its Opteron enterprise product stack, but it should also give us a glimmer of hope that AMD could continue to serve up high-performance client CPU, only ones that can't be based on socket AM3+.
 
SOURCE

This or watch anime. 
If you decide to, watch Fullmetal Alchemist: Brotherhood first.

might check with the Phanteks Forum. there are some awesome helping members
there. most hang out on OCN, but also to help forward the case line, the Phanteks
Forum is a great place to get help on that issue.

I myself am running an Intel/Nvidia rig, but the 'consumerist' inside me wishes that AMD can really come back and push both Intel and Nvidia to strive for the best that their teams can develop as well as computing innovation. What happens if AMD either drops making CPU's in general or disappears entirely so Intel becomes the monopoly in the CPU department and can churn out sub-par products whilst jacking up the pricing on these chips because it's either you fork out for a chip or you don't even have a computer. Regardless if one prefers one company's product over another's I think we can all agree that not only do we need AMD but we also need them to not hang on by the smallest of threads in which they're slowly slipping off as of now.

FINISHED
 
www.paultandesigns.com/thedarkknightpc
 




 
 
THANK YOU!

Update 4/3/14: I spent the last few months since my first post making some updates to the build.  Updates copied from my reddit post on /r/cablemanagement:
 
Re-sleeved the 24-pin to remove the cable extension and sewed the wires to maintain the evenness of the cable coming out of the motherboard.
Shortened the length of the PCI-E cable and added three stitches to maintain evenness. The stitches keep the cable very rigid and as it passes through the back panel grommet I have it running under the corner of the GPU. This serves to prop the GPU up, eliminating GPU sag completely.
Removed the drive cages and mounted the HDD to the floor with anti-vibration mounting (before while in the Corsair cage, the HDD vibrations would move my mouse cursor. Problem solved and bonus airflow.)
Mounted the SSD to the rear panel to be in view from the window.
Non-cable management related: Added Bitspower fan adaptors and 120mm SP120 PWM fans to the rad. I had to literally break the locking clip on the ESP connector to get it to fit. The ESP connector is very rigid due to the sleeving, routing, and sewing so it does not budge unless I remove the whole cable.
Upgraded to 4770K thanks to Staples for $230
Enjoy!
 





 
Hello All,
 
Several individuals over on /r/buildapc recommended that I post my build log over here for you guys to enjoy.  Let me know what you guys think.  Although if it's anything like the reddit response, I'm gonna wager you'll like it.
 
Lightning 350D
 
Full build album: http://imgur.com/a/32cDo
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 


 
 
 

 
Obligatory photographer shot:

 
Parts List:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU:  Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($239.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler:  NZXT Kraken X60 98.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($129.99)
Motherboard:  ASRock Z87M OC Formula Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($179.99)
Memory:  Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory  ($231.75)
Storage:  Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk  ($122.99)
Storage:  Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Owned)
Video Card:  MSI GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card  ($546.81 @ Newegg)
Case:  Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan:  Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition 39.9 CFM 120mm  Fan  ($17.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan:  Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition 62.7 CFM 120mm  Fan  ($18.68 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan:  Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm  Fan  ($17.98 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan:  Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm  Fan  ($17.98 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan:  Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm  Fan  ($17.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply:  Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($129.99)
Operating System:  Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit - OEM (64-bit)  (Free via MSDNAA)
Monitor:  QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor  ($406.99)
Keyboard:  Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard  ($121.98 @ Newegg)
Mouse:  Razer Orochi Bluetooth Wireless Laser Mouse  (Owned)
Total: $2301.08
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-31 16:45 EST-0500)
 
Build Notes:
This is actually my very first start-to-finish build. In the past, I have had pre-builts from Dell that I managed to upgrade on my own and I have always had very strong knowledge of electronics and computer components in general. My last computer was my beloved Gateway P-7805u FX that served me extremely well for 4 years.  I upgraded the processor to an Intel T9600, and pretty much everything else that could be upgraded. My main motivation was pretty much the build itself and making it look awesome and not necessary what I could do with it. When I finished I felt like the boys at the end of Make Love Not Warcraft: "Kyle: So, what do we do now? Cartman: What d'you mean? Now we can finally play the game." All of the cable sleeving was done by me including crimping, cutting, and soldering of all custom length wires. I purchased the necessary tools and materials almost exclusively from Lutro0 Customs and also relied heavily on Josiah's sleeving guides and tutorials. I probably spent another $200 - $250 on sleeving materials and tools. 90% of the time I spent on this build was sleeving and cable managing. I'm pretty sure I went through 400+ zip ties routing and re-routing cables. The 24-pin gave me the most headache, not because it was time consuming to sleeve nor that there were double wires, but because the wires looked messy and "unkempt" when the connector was plugged in. Here is what I meanMy OCD would not allow this and so I made a 24-pin extension so that the cables would align nicely. I have since bought one of Lutro0's 24-pin cable clamps to see if I can use that instead and remove the excess wire length the extension created. I purchased the QNIX through Newegg shortly after Newegg began selling them. Although I only paid for the non-perfect pixel version, the seller sent me a perfect pixel anyway. There was one stuck pixel right smack in the middle of the screen when I first powered it on, but I (literally) gave it a little massage and it went away. I have overclocked it to 120Hz. Timing on the 780 Lightning price cut could not have been at a better time. I was waiting for the 290X non-reference coolers to be released but my dream was really to have a Lightning. Current and Future Developments:
The CPU is currently overclocked to 4.5GHz at 1.275v which has been very stable via IntelBurnTest, Prime95, etc. Case and Kraken fans: I am fully aware that the Air Series AF140s I'm using with the Kraken's radiator are neither static pressure fans nor are they PWM fans since Corsair does not make static pressure PWM 140mm fans (except those bundled with the H110). But for aesthetic reasons, I think you can see why I'm using them anyway. That said, I have purchased this bracket to retro-fit 120mm PWM SP120s which will maintain the aesthetic quality of the build.  Fitment in the 350D is a question but I'm fairly confident I can finagle them in there. Lastly, I have some Coollaboratory Liquid Pro on the way as I plan to de-lid and re-apply the TIM to see if I can get to 4.6GHz stable. We'll see how that goes. Overclocks on the Lightning are fairly unstable and I have left it at stock clocks for now.  The card runs BF4 beautifully in stock form, and is very unstable even with mild overclocks.  This could be a combination of BF4 being a POS, drivers, or who knows. As mentioned, I've purchased Lutro0's 24-pin, and 3 x 8-pin cable clamps from Frozencpu to better orient the cables and hopefully remove the need for the additional cable extension that creates so much excess cabling under the back panel. Because the Lightning takes up 2.5 PCI-E slots, SLI unfortunately is not an option until I commit to a full water loop.  This time next year perhaps...

I'll think about it, but does everybody agree that a 250gb would be the way to go?

Sick rig. Posted on Facebook.

I think its 7/16 ID 5/8 OD compression fittings with 7/16 tubing

Those first fittings u posted won't work as it is a completely different size ad the ID of the tubing is the size of the OD of the fitting. The second fittings u posted will be just fine as they are the right size

I know your question was strictly asking about watercooling advice but if you're interested in listening about my two cents I'd like to make some suggestions hardware wise. If you're willing to wait I'd suggest holding tight until the X99 platform is released. That way if you were planning to splurge on a 4960X the Haswell-E equivalent will have 8 cores instead of 6 like their Sandy and Ivy Bridge-E predecessors. However that being said depending on what kind of video rendering you do (assuming this is the most demanding task you'll be doing CPU-wise) you may or may not benefit from those extra 2 cores and 4 threads. In addition, if you don't need 8 cores you can still get the 4930K equivalent which is speculated to have have 6 cores and you can benefit from other advantages that will come to this new platform such as DDR4 which will provide you with higher density modules with greater speeds which will be beneficial to those who are serious about video editing and other extreme power users.
 
If you do not care for any of these things then as @WunderWuffle said get a 4930K instead of a 4960X as the difference in performance is marginal. I'll also vouch for Noiseblocker fans and Alphacool radiators as well as PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT for tubing and Mayhems Pastel range of coloured coolants. Blocks like he said get one that is aesthetically pleasing for you and I also agree with his recommended brands. Tubing side of things just ensure that the Inner diameter (known as ID) and the Outer diameter (known as OD) match those of your fittings. OD only matters if you're getting compression fittings however I'd recommend these over barbs as they give a more clean aesthetic. These are almost always given in fractions of an inch and common tubing and fitting sizes for soft, flexible tubing include 3/8in ID 1/2in OD, 7/16in ID 5/8in OD, 3/8in ID 5/8in OD and 1/2in ID 3/4in OD. PrimoChill's tubing comes in all these sizes. No size is better over the other and like blocks comes down to what you find aesthetically pleasing. For fittings there are many good brands but I'd personally recommend Bitspower fittings as they are some of the best out there and in my opinion look very nice. They also make fancy angle and rotary fittings for more advanced loops however my recommendation would be to start off with just straight fittings unless you absolutely need some kind of an angle or rotary.
 
On a final note since you labeled yourself as a 'Water cooling Noob' I strongly recommend you check out the two water cooling stickies posted by Gmac and Ghost. They are both very long but even more so helpful reads and answer a lot of the questions people ask about custom loops. I hope you benefitted from my post as I spent a lot of time writing this out, have fun and good luck!

http://www.gabenewell.org/
 
Edit: We've seen this before but:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUo1PgKksgw

Yeah I watched nearly all of it but my main focus was where they were talking about the res plate and mounting options. Not sure if you'd know why but what is the purpose of the tube grommet being behind the res mounting plate. Or should I just ditch it in general, and go for something like this guy did.
 
 
The vendor that I was planning to get my stuff from sells the bitspower tap ones with coloured tubes *sigh* But that looks really nice I'll see if I can find it locally before ordering internationally. 

This thread is a brief how to on bending acrylic pipe and the basic use of a former.

First up is the basic kit we need.....(Magoo optional)



We have a heatgun,tube,silicone fuel line that has an OD matches the ID of the tube you wish to bend and a former....the square is for checking the 90 bends on the former.

So,the former,in this case a 2" wide piece of sheet alu rolled over a deodarant can to get a radius,you can select anything with a diameter of 40mm or over,thick walled tube will need a larger radius to prevent kinks.



The line is the bend start,this will become clear in a minute

The beauty of this is that you can form any specific angle you like and bend tube to it.
For instance: You have 2 ports you wish to join on the same plane,you can form the pathing from the inner measurement between the ports and bend a former to suit. Measure the closest points between the fittings from the actual tube insert point,bend the former so the 2 faces on the 90s match the gap and Bob is indeed your uncle

The silicone fuel line.



This needs to be around .5mm smaller that the ID of the tube you are bending



Normally used for RC cars,chosen for its high melt point and great flexibility.

The small cut line round the tube is placed at the start of you bend and is the reference point for another way of doing point to point bending.
Remember the pencil line on the former? Well,put the cut line  of the silicone tube on that ref point when doing the bend and you will get consistent bend radius measurement.

Like this.



For example: I want to tube 2 ports 150mm away,inlet to inlet on the inner points,I know that a bend will have a measurement of 20mm from that mark in the fuel line to the inner wall of the radius. Knowing that,we can make the first bend using the ref point on the former,insert the tube with the mark 130mm away from the inner wall of first 90,make the bend using the ref point on the former and both inner walls will be 150mm away from each other.

The bend.



You cant see the fuel line mark but its ion line with the former ref point,this is  the distance you will need to heat up ,around 100mm with the bend start 2/3 its length .

This creates a very even bend.



Hold the tube around 70mm above the heat gun on high.
IMPORTANT: Keep the tube moving,rotate constantly,do not let the heat sit in any one place.

Soon the tube will not be able to hold its own weight,this is the critical moment,too long and it will create visual anomalies and start to burn.



Now i dont have pics for the next bit as i only have one pair of hands ...

When the tube starts sag,quickly transfer to the former,matching the 2 ref points up and slowly 'form' round the radiused section,dont force it,take your time. If it starts to stiffen then re heat as required.

When you are happy with your bend then let it cool naturally,when cool you can twist the fuel line straight out with no fuss.

You should be left with this



I will be adding more on the former when Magoo finds a human lackey to do the pics.

As always,heatguns are awesome but burn stuff,be careful.
 
Fittings and Tube:

EK & E22 acrylic tubes come in 10mm ID and 12mm OD sizes. Both EK and Bitspower have non-compression fittings for the 10/12mm acrylic tubes.
EK and Bitspower C47 fittings are double O-Ring fittings.
Bitspower C48 fittings are skinnier and use a single O-Ring.
EK & Bitspower fittings grip really tight and you need to ensure you camber the edge of the tubes at an angle else (eg: 45deg), else you will tear your O-Rings when you put in your tubes. It helps to coat the tip of your tube in silicone grease,a thin smear will do,prior to inserting into the fittings.
You'll need to ensure your tube is seated all the way to the end and past the 2nd O-Ring.
The “seating depth” of the tube on C47 fittings is 8mm.
The “seating depth” of the tube on C48 is 4mm.
The “seating depth” of the tube on EK fittings is 9mm.

The PrimoChill acrylic tubes comes in
Inner Diameter: 3/8in.
Outer Diameter: 1/2in.
Wall Thickness: 1/16in.. This means that PrimoChill acrylic tubes and fittings are NOT compatible with EK, E22, & Bitspower tubes and fittings.

ITDiva has done some testing of other former materials and found that Buna N cord has nice properties for this method,it swells slightly when warm and shrinks when cold.
A nice alternative to the silicone currently used. As always,a former OD of 1mm less then the acrylic ID applies.


Monsoon have come to the game with a new mandrel set with everything you need with the basic technique shown above but with purpose built mandrels/formers and a new range of fittings with a novel locking technique.

The Monsoon hardline kit videos:

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_Heatgun_Kit.mp4

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure.mp4

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_2.mp4

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4

Monsoon Kit.









The bend quality is excellent! A slight pulling motion round the mandrel makes the bend flow very well.

And as a bonus!
 
I have been asked a few times now how i bent my pipe for my SR 2 build,so i decided to do a little walk thru.

The tools you will need are these:



A Cup of Tea...mine was a milky number to get the juices flowing.
A set of benders...these are for half-hard pipe,not annealed pipe as annealed is thin walled and should be bent by hand.
A Cutter for the chosen OD of your tube
A Ruler
Some tape.

I recommend Rothenberger benders,these are high quality and are worth the extra.
Otherwise,you may have to 'mod' the benders..like this:

The top guide was poorly aligned and needed a bit of work before use.
Poorly aligned guides can distort the tube and put creases down the length of the bend.

So..take a bit of tape to make a base mark.


Place the base mark on the 0 point of the bender.



Line up the guide with the 0 mark.



Make the bend using constant pressure,dont snatch at it,use nice firm and even pressure.



Once you have made your bend,measure the distance from the 0 mark and the outer wall of the bend.



This is the radius measurement,in this case 28mm,remember this as it will allow you to make accurate 90-90 bends to go 180 like this.



To cut the tube to length,use the cutter,rotating the the direction indicated on the tool.
Try to keep everything straight when cutting,the cutter can spiral if its not held 90 to the pipe.



This a basic guide,for any specific info,please comment below.

Hey guys I have made a proof of concept for a diy dirt cheap water cooling loop if you guys are interested/ have tips that would save me headaches give me a shout! 
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2T6nxS8Wuc&feature=youtu.be
 
Here's what I have so far,  I am also planning to pelteir cool the water and install bigger radiators, but I calculated for tolerance delta so the radiators could be cheaper in the beginning but after finding prices on ebay for 2nd hand radiators I had to snag one for lower temps, it seems lower temps and silence is addicting!

Hey Everyone,
 
I made this video for my build log, but i thought id share it here as well, in case some of you have not seen it and wanted to find a quick and easy way to sleeve your cables.
 
Please let me know if there are any questions or concerns,
Leave comments as well !

 
 
And just because its funny:
The Girlfriend Perspective!

praise lord gaben