knight_40k

I wanted to post an update. Thanks to everyone who replied and helped make my decision easier. I decided to get the 6950XT because of the extra VRAM. I have been using a GTX1080 until now and the RTX3070TI was VERY temping at the price but despite a solely raw performance increase, they both have 8GB of VRAM which may be a concern moving forward. I also do not care for ray tracing and much prefer overall rasterization performance. I know there's no such things as 'future proof' but this should provide more longevity before feeling like I need to upgrade again.

I am a bit stumped, at clearance pricing my local shop has a XFX MERC319 6950XT for $839 CAD and a Gigabyte RTX 3070 Ti GAMING OC (LHR) for $429 CAD. I know the 6950 XT will demolish the 3070Ti, but I game at 1440p/144hz so will I notice a difference and is it worth double the price?

Looking to buy a new GPU in about 6 weeks, I play a variety of games @ 1440p 144Hz. I have a Ryzen 5800X and 32GB RAM 3600, currently using a GTX1080. *****Prices in CAD (I know gpu prices are inflated) As it stands the 3070 is about $900 ($1050 for TI) 6800XT $1300 3080 $1200-$1600 (depending on model and 10vs12gb) 6900XT $1600 3080TI starting at $1700

I've been checking the LTT channel regularly every day after work (around 4pm PST - usually when I do my youtube rounds) and I still haven't seen any announcement video on the Verified Gamer Program, only to find out today I missed it a couple days ago? When did the video go live, so I know when I should be checking for next time?

I tested a stick of ram from my other system and still couldn't get it to boot. Would reseating actually help given it was in a working condition and was never touched since it had been installed?

Assuming I am reading this error code correctly,

Given I cant even get the thing to post before the entire system loses power I don't think it would matter where the monitor is plugged in. I don't hear any beeps, but the debug LED has a solid red glow on one of the four LEDs. It appears to be pointing at boot device but I unplugged all the SATA devices and it does the same thing. Even if it was a faulty drive or couldn't find a windows boot, it would still let me into the BIOS wouldn't it?

My dads PC was working just fine for the last 3 years and now it won't power on. The board is MSI Mortar B450M and CPU is either a Ryzen 2200G or 1200. It starts up for about one second and all the LEDs light up while the CPU fan spin and then it dies. I can't even get to the BIOS/Post screen, literally dies in one second. I tried 2 different PSUs, restarted and nothing I unplugged the GPU, restarted and nothing I unplugged all SATA devices, restarted and nothing I tried using just 1 stick of RAM in each slot on the board and even swapped to the other stick in every slot, restarted each time and nothing What do you think could be the problem?

I did not know that. I will give iCue a shot. Thanks.

I have a 3 pack of light loop fans which I bought last week, however since installing corsair link I notice at random times the lighting effects will revert back to factory settings which causes system issues. When this happens I do cntl+alt+del to close the corsair link software which then causes the system to freeze and I'm forced to hit the reset botton. For reference (in case hardware issue is the problem) I have a B550- F strix wifi, Ryzen 5800X. All my drivers are up to date and bios given Zen3. Is there a fix for this? I know there are issues with link software but is this one of them or should I return the fans?

Yes, I have a 5800X and 1TB NVME SSD. How would I go about setting that up? Good to know, thank you. I'm trying to save a bit of cash being that its on sale and all.

For reference I am looking to buy Seagate ST4000DM004. I want a 4TB HDD but most of the drives appear to be 5400 except for NAS or Enterprise models. I see the WD Black is 7200 but is expensive considering the capacity. I am hesitant to use 5400 because I used to have a 2TB WD Green and it was extremely slow for transferring files between drives and extracting zips and such. Has 5400 gotten better in the past years or were there other factors behind the horrible performance of my old WD Green? Or should I just buy a 7200 Ironwolf NAS for my game/storage drive?

It didnt work, only created a second user but still wants me to input my pin when I sign in. Is there a way to bypass this entirely when installing WIN10 or is this BS that you have to sign up through skype mandatory? Because I did not see any options to skip or bypass when installing.

So, I just built a new PC and made a new media creation tool for windows download, but to my surprise they added a lot of BS and now I have to sign in to my PC when I power it on? How can I turn this off?

@Deslumo@GhostRoadieBL I see on Newegg there are a couple 5 star reviews of people using that same kit (3600 C14) with Ryzen 3000 on X470 and X570 boards. Are they killing their memory controller or are X boards rated higher? Also, why would G.Skill make memory that is unsafe to use or what is the intended use case for this particular kit?

Well that's crappy. How good is newegg's return policy? It has already been shipped and should arrive this week. If I run the ram at lower voltage how much performance would I lose?

So i put my parts into PCpartpicker and this message was displayed as a warning. Do I set manual voltage or just load the XMP profile and its fine? For reference I will be using a B550F Strix board.

@King Spartan PSU is Corsair AX850, but I also have a spare AX760 The plan is to eventually upgrade both, I know my PC is on its last legs, just not sure how soon I'll be able to. I am looking for advice on what would be the most beneficial upgrade or best purchase now (...or around black friday). @Bombastinator @LIGISTX

Budget (including currency): $800-$1000 CAD Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games Other details: My PC is 8 years old (Ivy Bridge i7 3700) but I have never tried a high refresh monitor and think that would be the more significant upgrade. I currently use a Dell U2715H that is 1440p 60Hz but I am very interested in the LG Ultragear 27GL850-B although the Acer Predator XB271HU is a close contender. Is there another option I should be looking at for IPS 144hz? Is G-Sync on the Acer worth it over the LG's FreeSync? I will be using a GTX 1080 which I feel is still a competent card for what I play (CS-GO, World War Z). For the PC side, I am looking to replace the Motherboard, CPU and RAM. I will be reusing my PSU, GPU, Storage and Case. I was looking at either the i7 10700K or Ryzen 3800X and I prefer to use an air cooler. Which path would you choose - The Monitor or the PC, and why?

I just replaced the front panel of my P400S TG with the Air Mesh one and I noticed the front underglow LEDs have one bulb that glows a different color than the rest except when set to red. Is this normal? Images below.

I'm currently running an i7 3770, 16GB DDR3 and GTX 1080 (full specs in sig). A guy at work is selling his old PC - i7 6700, 16GB RAM (assuming DDR4) and GTX 1060 3GB for $300 CAD. I am not sure what the exact specs of the system are but it sure sounds enticing. I think the CPU alone is worth it, plus i could sell my CPU/RAM and his 1060. If you were in my shoes would you do it or is it a lateral move?

I am looking for players who can do Horde Mode (and sometimes Challenge Mode) on Hard to farm Blue Coin. It is hard to find decent players so it would be preferable you have a general understanding of the game. I'm not claiming to be the best player/most knowledgeable but I get extremely frustrated when the team dies any time before wave 10 because of noobs not doing their part or trolling. I am Tier 4 Prestige all classes (Level 800+) I don't mind to carry a little as long as you pull your weight and we work as a team. I have discord, let me know if you're down.

Oh, I made it as GPT, should I be using MBR?

I just created the iso and made the boot usb with roofus but it is failing to even launch. I'm thinking my ram or motherboard or nvme is bad, this should not be happening, period. I may take it to a shop and hope they can free diagnostic for me or atleast test/swap ram or use a random hdd to install, or something. Otherwise i have to return all of these items to amazon because I cannot verify which is the failing item.

Yes it is. Could you walk me through how to make a win10 boot drive? It's been a while since I did this but I know i'll need rufus.