Evyatar

Do keep in mind that mutliple kits arent guaranteed to work togheter or fully work togeter at their rated speeds.

There you go: https://www.crucial.com/compatible-upgrade-for/lenovo/thinkpad-p16-gen-2

Exact Kit: https://www.crucial.com/memory/ddr5/ct2k48g56c46s5/ct24572391

Bought one for my brother's entry into university, so I might as well take the chance to review it (also my first experience on Windows 11).
 
Build
I'll give it an 8/10. The top and keyboard faces are metallic and smooth but the Lenovo badge on the keyboard face is somewhat unnecessary. The bottom and display faces are plastic with a frosted texture, I prefer this over having all metallic because it provides better grip imo. Bezel width is reasonable, thin enough but not on par with smartphones these days.
Camera is clear enough and it has a mechanical shutter that will block the lens off for security needs.
Chassis flex is minor, it can flex a bit but I'd put it closer to the "sturdy" side than the "flimsy" side.
It has backlit keyboard, but the light only goes around the keycap without showing the writings on them so it's imo rather useless.
 
Display and Sound
I'll give it a 7/10. The resolution (1080p) is totally fine for its 15.6" size while 60Hz refresh rate, unspectacular colours and no-HDR is standard for a paperwork device like this. The brightness is sufficient at max when it's super sunny outside and I'm in a room with the only window facing away from the sun, but I don't think it will be enough when extra sunlight comes in from the sides and especially not for outdoors in the shade.
The sound is clear but limited in "vocal range" to the point of distorting human speech, if that makes sense. Just like many cheaper Windows laptops, get yourself a good set of headphones if you're looking for quality.
Overall, no surprises.
 
Internals (no disassembly sry)
My model comes with an i5-1335U, 2x8GB LPDDR5-4800 and a 512GB SSD. The factory's SSD model is sadly unknown because I opt for a 1TB upgrade, which turns out to be a WD SN350 1TB QLC NVMe SSD. Not the SSD I would buy myself (endurance is low) but the price is alright and I wanted the extra space for my brother without taking the blame for opening up the laptop myself (yeah, family things). The RAM is running 52-44-44-104 primary timings, seems worse than DDR5-4800 but I don't know these new stuff well to make further comments. There is no dedicated graphics.
 
Connectivity
I'll give it a 6/10. WiFi card is an Intel AX203 (CNVi), Wifi 6 support should be standard these days so nothing to complain or brag about.
Only 3 USB 3.2 Gen 1 (Type A x2, Type C x1 that can also be used to charge the laptop) is a big reason why it loses so many points, the number is already not generous and 5Gbps per port means performance with a USB hub is still limited.
There's also an HDMI 1.4 port and SD card reader
 
Performance and limits
Windows 11 is updated to the latest version as of posting (2023-7-25), graphics driver is 31.0.101.4575.
 
CPU turbo bins:
P-core: 46x (1c), 43x (2c)
E-core: 34x (1~4c), 32x (5~8c)
 
Power limits:
PL1: 12W~27W (static), 14W~21W (dynamic)
PL2: 55W (static), 45W (dynamic)
These are reported by Hwinfo
 
Cinebench R23:
Single core: 1556pt (note Hwinfo64 shows it loading the first thread of each P-core rather than a single P-core's two threads, leading to them running at 4.3GHz during the run) @73C peak and 70C steady (room temperature is 26C)
Multi core 1st run: 5914pt @88C peak and 58C steady (a couple seconds of 45W peak, dropping to 21W and then 19W steady)
Multi core subsequent runs: 5724pt
 
CSGO FPS benchmark (just for fun, can't think of any games reasonable to try on basic laptops like this)
at 1080p and every video quality option turned way down, it can get around 200fps when nothing's going on but drops to 15fps after the smoke grenades explode and the camera enters it. Average reported is 112.88fps.
 
Noise and external temperature
A slight fan noise (louder than a hiss but not annoying) can be heard during Cinebench R23 single core test, but even running R23 multicore and CSGO can't get it to be loud. PL1 did its job very well.
 
Only the left side of the bottom vent gets hot, the right side stays cool during all tests. This means the single fan design did not fully utilize the cooling potential of the chassis.
 
Useless pre-installed garbage
Lenovo preinstalls Lenovo Vantage, Smart Appearance Components and Lenovo Now from the factory. Vantage lets you check for warranty and other maintenance stuff so it's good, the other two I don't seem to find a use for me yet.
 
Price
It's HKD 6000 before the SSD upgrade, HKD 6400 after.
 
Battery life
My brother won't let me take it for long enough for a battery life test, but it's a 47Wh BYD battery on a laptop that idles at 5~6W CPU package power and takes about 10W when watching Youtube videos. Therefore unfortunately he will have to take the charger with him every day which is not so convenient as it has a separate power brick.
 
Conclusion
My brother's not a computer geek, the only game he plays is Roblox. The laptop will be used to do paperwork and run geomatics software like ArcGIS so it should be good enough and isn't too bad of a deal. However Lenovo clearly didn't spend much effort on improving it over their older designs on a hardware level either, the power brick and USB ports being the giveaways.

Ok
Thank you so much for your help man, you were very helpful!

I'm so sorry for not commenting back to you guys!

So I went back to this guy and said to him that there's no driver for this item other than win xp...
I gave him this back and got my self 6 usb 3.0 with mullox adapter which is working nice.

Again, thank you for your help guys.

I'm so sorry for not commenting back to you guys!

So I went back to this guy and said to him that there's no driver for this item other than win xp...
I gave him this back and got my self 6 usb 3.0 with mullox adapter which is working nice.

Again, thank you for your help guys.

I'm buying an x79 mobo to pair it with, and the i7 860 is lga 1156, the i7 9xx is lga 1366

I think they don't have one, but Asus and MSI have the X.

Iv only just managed to reset my password yesterday after not being able to for almost 5 months.
Sent around a dozen emails to LTT forum admins and didnt get a response over that 5 month period. (still havnt)
Im in now though (obviously)

If you have the money, the i7 is better. Hyper threading is becoming a useful thing in certain tasks, not always necessarily in gaming. And with new GPU series coming out soon from both AMD and NVIDIA, as well as DX12, and Broadwell-E, more threads/cores/such are going to become super useful for many different things.
 
id just say get the i7, if you have the cash to do so. If not, the i5's are great too. I would definitely suggest getting the K series chips, overclocking is fun and useful.

It's printed on the board. The very top-left corner in this picture: http://motherboards-reviews.com/images/Gigabyte_GA-X58A-UD3R_top.jpg

I have not done that and you shouldn't need to unless Windows freaks out about something. And to run a program in compatibility mode right click it and click properties-compatibility and select the OS in which you would like to attempt to run it in. 

Uhm, ...
 
But no h8 m8.

connect your laptop to the internet via wired LAN - from what I saw, it's a RealTek NIC
download and install HP's Support Assistant: http://www8.hp.com/us/en/campaigns/hpsupportassistant/hpsupport.html#.Vs4rpFt95hE

you might be able to use the case to hold a new pc, cool retro look and thieves won't look twice. or just sell it to some enthusiast 

I name them after the case... 230T, CM690, etc.

Windows XP

Linux Mint (cinnamon). It's free, and is probably the best option for someone going from Windows to Linux as the interface look "similar".
 
Couple that with WineHQ and you can run most Windows apps too.

Maybe its time for Linus to make a naked fleshlight review video to get more followers?

I'm perfectly happy with my Note 4.

Hi.
 
Generally, always start by building outside of the box to test components.
 
1. Take your motherboard out of the anti-static bag and a SATA cable. That's all you'll need right now, and maybe the manual later.
2. Start building on the box.
3. Get your CPU (processor). Lift up the retention arm (given it's brand new. If not, remove the existing thermal compound with something like Isopropyl Alcohol) and match up the tabs on the socket with those on the processor. Make sure the gold arrow lines up and drop the CPU into the socket. Pull back the retention arm, securing the CPU and removing the socket cover. Keep this, if your motherboard fails you will need this to send it out. Then put your cooler on with a grain of rice-sized bit of thermal paste.
4. Grab your PSU and unbox it. All you'll need is a SATA power cable and PCI-E power connectors depending on how many connectors your GPU (graphics card) has.
5. Install your RAM. Very simple. Go for the slots farthest away from the CPU and make sure they are in the same coloured socket given you are using multiple sticks of RAM.
6. Get your storage device. Plug the power from the PSU into the drive (bigger connector) and the data cable into the smaller connector on your drive. Connect the SATA power on the PSU to a port on the PSU (if it is modular. If not, skip that step).
7. Plug the 24/20+4 pin connector from your PSU (generally hard-wired) onto the big port on your motherboard. Also plug in the 8-pin connector to power the CPU (also hard-wired).
8. Get your graphics card and insert it into the PCI-E 16x slot. Look close to the slot to see if it says it there.
9. Run power to the graphics card using the cables you grabbed out befre.
10. Turn it on and make sure it POST's (Power On Self-Test).
11. When it does that, rebuild the components in your case and get ready to install your OS.
 
There you go! That's essentially how to build a PC.

Umm. Yes, indeed this is forum. And we are proud of being very noob friendly. Best place to start is to post into New Builds section with budget, location and other relevant things mentioned in stickie post. If someone has more specific questions, post into relevant subforum for them. Or for general help here is fine.
 
Also, I recommend using search. There are many threads listing common mistakes and things to remember while building.

If you're a beginner, just watch Linus's build guides. They're amazingly well done IMO. That's how I learnt. 
 
If you dont know if your parts are compatible, use Pcpartpicker. 

All Razer products.