Rainbrew

In case anyone ever runs into this in the future, I managed to discover that the issue is with DSC specifically. Disabling it gets rid of the issue entirely, however then you can't run 240hz+HDR/10bit colour. After doing some research over the weekend I found that I wasn't the only one experiencing these issues. I found a handful of reviews on Amazon describing similar artifacts to the one I had (even though the Dell technician I talked to claimed that they have never heard of such issues before). Additionally a user review on the website of the store I got it from popped up with the user describing going through 5 of these monitors, all of them with major defects (dead pixels, large patches of dust under the screen), before settling on one with the least amount of issues. Overall I would not recommend this monitor despite the glowing reviews it receives unless you're willing to gamble with the QC and to potentially go through several returns.

I think I'll gamble with the Alienware again and hope I don't run into the same issues. Worst case scenario I'll just return it and buy something budget and then at least I'll save a few bucks and I won't have as high expectations. Thanks for the responses everyone, really appreciate it.

I've spent quite some time on there but sadly it seems like unless you go OLED it's just a massive gamble in most cases. Reading about mini LED monitors is sad cuz most of the more affordable ones seem to be plagued with issues. It's not that it's a massive issue it's just that the larger screen size, brightness, and inconsistency of the bleed make it much more noticeable especially when compared to my crappy old monitor. It really takes away from all the other improvements I can see. OLED is simply too expensive at this point in time and I'm not a fan of the burn in risk as I enjoy using my tech for as long as possible until it's virtually obsolete. I plan on setting up some bias lighting for my monitor regardless to minimize the visibility of the glow at night. As a side note does anyone know anything about the Phillips Momentum monitors? One specifically (Philips27M1F5500P/00 NanoIPS 240Hz) seems to use the same panel as the alienware I returned but there are pretty much no reviews of it online. The user reviews claim that the monitor has no backlight bleed to speak of and the IPS glow is very even but that could just be a case of winning the panel lottery.

I've been going through the ringer with monitors recently. I decided to move on from my old 75hz 1080p 24 inch Acer IPS monitor that I got several years ago to properly utilize my 4080. My first choice was a 27 inch Odyssey G7 which had several issues including random black screens which required the monitor to be unplugged from the outlet to be able to restart, weird flickering, pronounced vignetting and a few other problems. I figured that it's fine, these monitors are notorious for bad QC online and I just got a bad panel so I returned it and to avoid similar issues I decided to move to a flat IPS. I picked up an AW2723DF which has been praised as the best mid range 1440p monitor by many people and I knew more or less what to expect based on reviews. The corner glow from the backlight was a bit obnoxious but after as I was using it I think the panel was decompressing from shipping and the glow was receding. Then spontaneously the DSC function of the monitor started to glitch out and I had to return it as even when calling Dell they had no clue what to do. As I'm now back to my ol' reliable Acer I can't help but wonder if I just got unlucky with the panel lottery with the other two monitors or if my expectations are too high. The IPS glow on this monitor is very uniform and barely noticeable and I can't say I've ever run into any bugs or issues with the firmware or any other functions of the panel (tbf there aren't many). Do smaller panels suffer from less uniformity issues or is this just a case of winning the panel lottery years ago without knowing it? Where do I go from here? Get another 2723df and hope it doesn't have the same artifacting as the previous one? Abandon the higher end non OLED monitors, go for an LG 27Gp850p and hope I don't get terrible backlight bleed? I'm trying to stay in the sub 500/550USD price range but monitor prices being all over the place in Europe doesn't help. I was hoping to just enjoy my new PC after saving up for so long but after all the troubleshooting and returns I've done recently I'm kind of bummed out and just want something 1440p that won't be messed up after a week. Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

I think you're right with the 10 bit thing. I found a setting in the monitor that disables DSC and it fixed the green things popping up entirely both in the bios and in Windows regardless of the CSM setting. So it actually might be the monitor after all. I'll try to figure out with the store I got the monitor from if this is normal. I'm not sure how to diagnose the problem if it's on the GPU side without another DSC monitor. Thanks so much for your help I'll give you the epic gamer solution checkmark as soon as I hear back from the store.

I'm running the latest game drivers, I've never touched the studio ones. I'll try to find some settings online that maybe I need to play around with to get stuff running. I was under the impression that with DSC you can get 240hz 1440p with 10bit colour and HDR. I'm not sure I'll be able to test my PC on another display with DSC to verify if it's the GPU that's at fault here though so here's hoping there's a magic setting I missed somewhere .

The HDR question got me thinking and I remembered something I had issues with on my previous monitor as well (the one I returned). I was trying to enable Resizable BAR and was running into issues with the BIOS not displaying properly. One of the settings that was flipped was enable CSM and now after turning it back on I no longer see the green flashing when entering BIOS. The other setting I realized was different is that my 1060 can't output 10 bit colour. After switching it to 8 bit on the 4080 I haven't been able to reproduce the green flashing when entering Windows. I'm fairly sure the BIOS thing has been fixed with the CSM setting but I'm uncertain about the Windows flashing as it's very inconsistent and sometimes the screen briefly goes dark before displaying the login screen. Edit: Turning on 10 bit colour causes the flashing in Windows confirmed So what's going on? Display stream compression is somehow broken and I've got some weird settings that cause rebar to break?

Oh and my bios is version 4802 which according to the Asus website is the latest one.

None of the above sadly, I haven't had the opportunity to try out HDR properly and adaptive sync/overdrive have been left completely untouched. I had previously used g-sync but I reset all Nvidia and monitor settings so it's not on right now and the issue still appears. I unfortunately don't have a spare PC to try it out in. I haven't checked the GPU memory for errors but I'll figure out how to do that in a second. As for the monitor I might try to borrow one from a nearby PC repair store or from a friend who lives nearby to try it out. One interesting development is that when using HDMI the screen randomly turned off for a second so I'll switch back to my old HDMI monitor and see if that happens again.

I've been experiencing issues with weird green artifacting when entering the BIOS and Windows on my new monitor and was convinced that it's a matter of a faulty displayport input. As a sanity check before packing it up and returning the display I decided to swap my 4080 out for my old 1060 to see if the problem persisted and to my shock it disappeared. I've tried several DP cables and found that they do not affect the issue whatsoever. At this point I'm trying to figure out if it is in fact the monitor or an issue with the GPU/other hardware. Things I've tried: -Different displayport cables -Re-seating the GPU -Re-seating the power connector -Reinstalling drivers after wiping them with DDU -Scanning windows for corrupt files -Checking if I have the latest Nvidia DP firmware -Checking for any faulty contacts in the PCIe slot on my motherboard and the connector on the GPU -Trying a different displayport output on the GPU (tried all of them) I'll be seeing if for whatever god forsaken reason the culprit is in reality my cablemod set attached to the 16vhpwr squid adapter but I highly doubt that's possible. I have a theory that the 1060 either due to age or some compatibility quirk works for some reason or can't drive the display as well as the 4080 and that somehow fixes the issue. I didn't have these issues on the previous display I had but it was faulty in other ways (Odyssey G7 QC is notoriously bad). HDMI cables work and cause no issue. Any ideas on where to go from here? Is it possible that all 3 DP outputs on the 4080 went to crap but not the HDMI? I'm running out of ideas at this point and would greatly appreciate any help. Specs: Ryzen 7 5800x 32GB (2x16) 3600mhz CL16 Corsair Ram Asus STRIX x570-E Gaming WIFI 2 Corsair RM750x PSU Cablemod Modmesh Pro cable set Gainward Phantom RTX 4080 Windows 11 Pro 64 bit 512gb nvme SSD + 256GB SATA SSD

Other video: VID_20230920195812.mp4

I recently returned a Samsung G7 Odyssey due to having several issues with it and got an Alienware AW2723DF instead. I was thrilled with the monitor (minus the IPS glow from the corners which seems to be slowly receding) for about a week when two days ago I noticed that weird horizontal white lines would appear randomly in Windows/games. The lines were extremely thin and about 5cm in width and would move around the whole screen. Unplugging the displayport cable on either the monitor or GPU and plugging it back in fixed the issue so I figured the included cable was bad and ordered a different one. Yesterday the problem developed with extremely weird green artifacts appearing before entering either the BIOS or Windows. I have tried two different DP cables and both had this issue, all DP outputs on my 4080 (no difference), and HDMI which actually didn't have this problem. I have factory reset the monitor several times and done a clean driver install with DDU to no avail. Once the new cable arrives today I'll try it out to see if it's a matter of the DP connector on the monitor being bad or hopefully just the cable. I'm still well within the return period and will ask for a replacement. My question is if anyone has any idea what I'm looking at with these? Why is it green of all colours? The videos are at 1/4 speed. The weird square artifact one appears when entering the BIOS and the green vertical bar one pops up before the main Windows login screen. VID_20230920200833.mp4

Thanks for the detailed response, I really appreciate it! I also noticed some banding issues with red/green gradients and the random black screens have appeared a few times more so I think I'll end up going for a replacement and if the issues persist in the new one a full refund. Sad that these panels have so many issues because it is an incredible display in certain aspects but the QA is all over the place for most models it seems.

I recently made the plunge and finally got my long awaited gpu + monitor upgrade. I unfortunately received my GPU without the new NVIDIA power adapter so I'm currently running my Samsung G7 27' off of my poor 1060 (it is not having fun) while I wait for the missing accessories to arrive next week. I've heard bad things about Samsung's QA when it comes to monitors so I have spent the last two days testing the panel in the few games I can run above 30 fps and trying various colour profiles/test screens/settings etc. to make sure that my model works correctly. I've run into a quirk where the monitor will sometimes lose signal for a few seconds however I'm willing to chalk that up to the included DP cable which is very short and seems a bit wonky that I'll be replacing on monday with a better one. The primary issue I've noticed that I highly doubt will be fixed by the new cable is that the monitor has some uneven backlighting at the very top and very bottom of the panel. There's a small kind of uneven strip of dimness at the top and bottom which is not very noticeable (and doesn't bother me), however both the bottom corners have a quite noticeable drop in brightness that is not present anywhere else on the screen (which does bother me). It's very difficult to catch on camera but purely eyeballing it I'd say there's a round splotch about 4-5mm wide in both corners that is about 10-20% dimmer than the rest of the screen regardless of what is currently being displayed. I've had no other issues with the panel and am stunned by how big the jump from 75hz to 240hz is. The contrast is also incredible and I'll have trouble going back to anything IPS again. Because I'm so impressed by certain parts of the monitor I feel like I've been flashbanged by the wonder of new technology and this seemingly small issue is bugging me as it stands out when compared to the glory of everything else that my eyeballs are witnessing. I briefly tested a friend's 1440p TUF monitor that also has a VA panel and I didn't see any inconsistent backlighting there hence my concern. How evenly lit should such a panel even be? Is it unreasonable to expect that the backlighting would be smooth? I never noticed any issues in my old panel so it's hard for me to say what is even considered normal for an edge lit VA monitor. Edit: I just realized I've been sitting way too close to it and after moving back a bit the problem is less noticeable although still visible. My new concern is figuring out how to mount this thing to be able to sit ~1m away from it...

Hey everyone, I'm finally in a position where I'm able to upgrade my GPU and will be getting a 4080 in the next few weeks (I want to not upgrade for several years and the 4090 is simply too expensive). I'm currently running an Acer Nitro VG270BMIIX (1080p, 75hz, 24”) and would like to make the jump to 1440p to better utilize the new card. As I'm upgrading from 75hz I don't really care for crazy high refresh rates since anything above 120 should be a noticeable improvement so I'm mainly interested in something that has impressive colours and good contrast (OLED is too pricy sadly). When playing certain games I've had issues with being unable to distinguish objects in darker areas without cranking up the brightness to an uncomfortable level, so I would like my new panel to be able to handle darker games with ease. I don't play any competitive games or do too much creative work and plan to mainly catch up on single player titles that I've missed out on over the past few years. I've been doing some research and I'm still uncertain as to what monitor to go for. It seems that the Odyssey G7 is fairly popular in my country (Poland) and has a great contrast ratio, however it is no longer recommended by rtings or Monitors Unboxed in favour of other monitors. I’m not sure why this is, but the pricing of this monitor is pretty good and QC shouldn’t be a significant issue due to an easy return process should the panel be defective. The Alienware AW2723DF is often listed as a similarly priced better alternative to the G7, however in my case it’s about 25% more expensive than the G7 and not as easily available. I also see the LG 27GP850-B being recommended frequently, and although the price is great, it seems like there are issues with backlight bleed which in my use case would be quite noticeable as I generally play games in the evening. Additionally while researching I came across the MSI G274QPF-QD which seems to be a slower, more colour-accurate competitor to the LG monitor, however as it’s an IPS Panel I assume that backlight bleed is still a potential issue here. Pricing: Odyssey G7(27”): 2199 PLN Alienware 27”: 2718 PLN LG 27GP850P-B: 1499 PLN MSI: 1449 PLN What monitor would be best for my use case? Any advice/recommendations are greatly appreciated as despite my research I still feel like I have no idea which one to pick up. Thanks in advance!

The price is very enticing for sure as it costs half as much as the OnePlus I've been eyeing. My concern is that I'd be getting a significantly less powerful device and I'd like to beat on the phone for a few years before getting a new one so higher specs = more better for longer if I'm not wrong. Hearing that makes me concerned for my friend who's phone died and he impulse bought a Samsung M53. From my brief research it seemed to be an entry-level version of the A53 but more expensive due to being newer. Seems like the M53 is a terrible choice if the A52 is just better and at almost half the price he got it for.

Hey, so I've been running an LG G7 thinQ for about 2 years now and it's slowly starting to die on me so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking to spend ~400 Euros on the new one. From my research it seems like a decent contender in that price bracket is the Oneplus Nord 2T which I can get for about 408 euros on the manufacturer's website due to their student discount offer thing. I'm a bit uncertain about how much ram I should go for, because the 12gb model is quite a bit more expensive and that amount of ram seems like a crazy amount for a mid-range phone. I'm open to recommendations in general, I don't have any requirements really beyond sticking as close to that price point as possible. In terms of brand preferences I don't really have any although I've heard some negative things about Samsung phone bloatware and a fairly bad Android skin, plus I'd like to avoid Xiaomi/Realme/Huawei on account of bad experiences with their products in the past. Seeing as a lot of brands are ditching the headphone jack I've conceded that I'll use an adapter/sound card for my headphones so that's not a requirement. Thanks in advance!

Ok, I see I'll have to do a bit more reading then because I thought b-die specifically referred to Samsung B-die and that all of it was good.

Actually I have a question, what makes B-die "trash"? There's a website that lets you find Samsung b-die ram kits but I'm not sure how to differentiate between the good and bad ones.

I'm in Poland! It's 3600 cl16 by default, so can't be any worse than my current kit. (Goodram IRDM Pro Hollow White 3600mhz Cl17(18?) 2x16gb)

I looked into it and apparently they're based on Samsung C-die. I'm not really sure if that's good or bad as my current kit isn't exactly high performance either, but the price where I live including tax is ~180usd so it's actually cheaper than most other 3200/3600 32gb kits. I'm not a ram man though so maybe c-die is something atrocious that I'm not aware of.

I'm thinking about getting the Vengeance RT in 2x16gb 3600mhz CL16. It's relatively low height so the second fan *might* fit and it will be faster than my current kit (3600 Cl18) so it's ~aesthetics~ with a minute performance boost. I'm just looking for some opinions because while I can technically just buy it and refund it within 14 days if someone says that 2 fans is epic gaming 20x better than the 2 ram rgb then I'll just find some lower profile black ram and call it a day.

While others are maximizing performance, I'm maximizing ~aesthetics~

Hey, so my build plans have changed from a black/white build in a be quiet 500dx to a full black/RGB one and my white ram sticks are the only thing remaining from the previous version of my build. Below I have three pics, one with the NH-D15 with two fans, one with one fan, and one with a super professional mock-up of the new ram. This is purely for aesthetic reasons (temps are good in the system either way) and I'm not sure if I'd prefer the different ram over the second fan as it reflects the lighting really nicely. Which do you think looks best? 2 fans: 1 fan: 1 fan + epic simulated RGB.

Hey, so I'm very likely going to be swapping out the ram in my PC for aesthetic reasons and I very much like the way 4 sticks look in a motherboard. Obviously the cheapest way to do this is to go 4x8gb and I am aware that running 2 sticks is faster than 4 in the vast majority of cases, not to mention the upside of being upgradable in the future.What I'm wondering is if I do go for 2x16gb and get an extra 2x16gb down the line, what workloads would I have to put the machine through to even fully utilize that much memory? If I'll be mainly doing gaming or hobby-level editing/modelling/rendering will that 64gb even realistically be used in the near future? Thanks in advance!