comicsansms

If your phone has a passcode, it likely is encrypted. Also, you can kill sessions or sign out on devices for most online services.

MacOS is definitely the best Operating System for University. The search feature is killer. My next laptop will likely be an M1 Air purely because of it; I briefly used MacOS in 2018, and it was a breeze writing reports with the amazing search feature.

I would not buy a used de-lidded CPU. Liquid metal can and will fuck up your CPU if incorrectly applied. Unless it is absurdly cheap, just don't.

Ashampoo pro looks like an imaging software. I have never used ashampoo, so I cannot comment on it, but in general: Cloning software will make an exact copy of your computer's partitions, whereas an imaging software will likely will only copy required system files and drivers, as well as applications.

Windows 7 COA keys should still activate windows 10, (or at least windows 7 Pro, I haven't touched home in years). It might be a good idea to run magic jellybean key finder and also note down the Windows 10 CD Key https://www.magicaljellybean.com/keyfinder/ Your old HDD's windows install won't suddenly stop working if you remove it from the system and install it on a new HDD. If you cannot reactivate windows on the new HDD/Install, you can clone the old HDD onto the new HDD using a cloning software like Macrium Reflect. https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree

Okay. What is the switch? Modern Switches are usually Gb, older switches are typically FastEthernet or 100Mb. For your information, but not related to the thread:

What is the issue? Is it to do with internal network speeds, or internet speed? What is your internet plan speed capacity? And do you know the difference between Mb/s (megabits per second) and MB/s (Megabytes per second)?

If your PC came preinstalled with Windows 7 or older, it should have a COA Sticker with the activation key somewhere on the case. If it came preinstalled with 8/8.1 or 10, it will likely have a windows key embedded into the bios. You can reinstall windows just fine if it has either of those methods. For the former, it will ask for your key, for the latter it will automatically detect the key.

If you want it now, and for the cheapest price, buy a prebuilt. A friend of mine works at a smaller PC boutique OEM. They got more RTX3080's and RTX3090's than a decently large PC parts retailer in Australia.

Did you buy ECC RAM? Is your existing RAM ECC?

It is a budget case. The fit and finish won't be as nice as a more expensive case, and it may not be as well thought out as a more expensive case, or as modular. It won't cut your hand open like a cheap case from 2005, and it is functional

How much testing did you do before you assembled your PC?

Also, all of the classrooms at my University have computers in it, and at any given time there’s 100 unused computers at the library. You could get away without a laptop. Lectures are really the only time you really need one, but I cannot imagine you’d have live on campus lecturers atm.

With used laptop, buy on a platform that has buyer protections (such as eBay), or buy in person and pay in cash after it’s confirmed to be working

Buy a used business laptop is really the sensible choice for studying. Cheap laptops don’t last. (Even $1100 Ultrabooks) I got an Elitebook 8470P for year 12 in 2017. That was a beast with a quad core i7. My drink bottle unfortunately leaked last year and killed it, but heck, it was only $150AU, and I ended up replacing it with an Elitebook 840 G1 (thinner, but slower). i suggest 14” laptops. I personally believe they are the perfect compromise between portability and usability. I will be replacing my laptop this year with either an Elitebook 845 G8, Thinkpad T14 AMD (2nd Gen) or a M1 MacBook Air (undecided). And get a desktop for gaming at home.

Is there an orange LED on the top Left hand corner of the trackpad?

What is your specs? What are you planning on upgrading with?