kfarris

My particular board doesn't hide them & has them located above the GPU & a second slot below it. There is no provided cover either from the motherboard manufacturer. The entire build was designed with LED lighting built into the board, case, cooling, etc & for the lights to show this on the board it just leaves a bit of an ugly taste to look at. Now I understand why most people don't care since they probably don't have theirs designed for show-casing, atm. But in my particular case, I do / From what I hear their PS5 branded one is exactly as the picture/advertising they do for it.. So I may return & buy that one tomorrow if they have it.

I just bought a 2tb SN770 SSD from bestbuy which cost me 128 dollars & sadly the item does not look like the advertisement box or picture where it hides all the Printed circuit board electronics. This is unfortunate because I had bought it for a glass case to go with my aesthetic pc build. Since it is significantly different from what it was portrayed as this would count as false advertising & I am not sure whether to return it to Best Buy & try for a different model or if I'll just get scammed again with the pretty cover pictures.. Are there any that you offer that aren't falsely advertised? Thought I was getting an aesthetically pleasing SSD for my glass case PC Instead, you get this.. & no it does not come with a screw or sticker just a panflit..

Well yes, I am running it now and it's fine at first but once you get about 50% into adding cool graphical effects it starts to bog down the machine and I thought it was because I was in the developer version so I exported into a game update and the results stayed the same. Could it be affected do to hard drive read and write speeds? Because I am at a point where the game engine is doing very complex equations and calculations added with a lot of C# scripts and the game server which is still under development is having issues running certain sandbox worlds with advanced special effects and even the ones with basic graphics and crazy game mechanics (which are still being added on) are starting to show signs of lack of hardware power...

Was wondering what the best hardware platform best benifits the unity game engine? I'd like to upgrade my system but do not know which hardware this particular engine runs best off of. Any advice would be nice... Update: This will be for game development not just running unity games. Currently running CPU: FX-8350 (Clocked at 4.4ghz? I think.. been awhile) MOBO: Asus 970 pro gaming aura led thing... (dislike) (wish I still had ASUS M5A97 R2.0) 1 Intel SSD 530 240G series. (Win 7 ult 64bit) 1 Samsung SSD 840 Evo 240G (Win 10 64bit insider build latest) 1 WDC WD1003FZEX-00MK2A0 (1TB) 1 WDC WD30EFRX-68EUZN0 (3TB) Case: Cooler Master HAF XB EVO (still 100 bucks...) GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC edition (the only one that comes with a free copy of that one game...) Mouse: ROCCAT KONE XTD MAX Cooler air: Cooler Master HYPER 212 EVO (works good) Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow chroma ultimate/ Old 2009 Compaq ps2 keyboard ( I switch between them...) Display: INSIGNIA TV 24INCH 1080p 60hz SRS HD true-surround (Got it in 2012 still going strong after a few repairs...) (Works really well for streaming games at 1600x9? to twitch/youtube.) (TV supported the latest HDMI tech) PSU: 80+ GOLD CERT Corsair HX 750 <This has a 7-year warranty it died after 3... Now using an 850 watt modular something. 24Gig of ram running mixed ram with same timings and power consumption zero issues. [SPOILER="ram that i am using "](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G3RH4846) and (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220710) [/SPOILER] Also, have a few Seagate backup plus portable drives (2tb each)

Was wondering if their really was that much of a performance difference in 32Bit applications between adobe air version 2.6 and anything newer or latest sdk. I mean strictly 32bit adobe air programs made for 32bit windows os. If so please explain or elaborate for me. Now I have a second question. Is it possible to develop an adobe air application made in 32bit to use more than 2G of ram if it is installed on a 64bit OS? Either by modifying the source code, sdk, or by making a work around/force it to do so. If the computer has say 8G or 16G+ of available ram? Why not just make it in a 64bit? well if you where smart you'd know that version 2.6 doesn't support it. support didn't come until 3.0. And I need 2.6 still to keep Linux support sadly...

Corona 1.3 Benchmark Finished BTR Scene 16 passes AMD FX(tm)-6300 Six-Core Processor Time: 0:07:44, Rays/sec: 1,046,090 Clocked at 4Ghz 2x4Gb of ram clocked at 2400Mhz. I can't go any higher only have a 750Wat PSU...

I need to create a bootable flash drive formatted as either USB-ZIP (preferably) OR USB-FDD. I have tried just about every software I could find. And so far I have not been able to find/figure out how to: A; FORMAT A USB Flash Drive to USB-ZIP OR USB-FDD. Using windows cmd diskpart or 3rd party software persay..? B; I have .iso and .image forms of the linux distro I wish to use. And I can make any working TRUE .form that I need (.bin .image .iso .etc if need be.) C; http://www.partitionguru.com/step/boot-from-usb.php I have been able to get this to boot using the USB-Zip format however.. I'm not able to successfully change the 3rd party software to the linux os I wish to make bootable..either to install or run as live cd mode. (Interestingly enough I am able to extend the 1.44mb partition it makes using AOMEI software and it still works with the default 3rd party software.) So it is possible to run/boot a larger USB-ZIP file via usb stick. D; I tried MS-DOS, Free DOS, DD image and ISO image all failed.. So basically; how do I format the USB stick in either USB-FDD or USB-ZIP. Without having 3rd party software on it other than what is needed to make it a USB-ZIP or USB-FDD. Once formatted in 1.44mb I can extend that partition without breaking the bootable files. which will allow me to use the entire 8g usb or 30gig usb drives that I have. I know I have to have a bootable .bin because of the ZIP format/FDD. But I cannot find software that will allow me to just format the dam USB stick to either bootable format so please help. WHY am I going through the trouble of doing this instead of using USB-HDD??? Well simple, the motherboard does NOT SUPPORT IT! "PERIOD"

Well, the projects section isn't working correctly but we just fixed the overlap with some wording. + It's under development right now.. and will be for awhile.. Update: 1 well... the email works now. Apparently it didn't? Update; 2 automation phone service is down. People are manually answering calls/texts. It feels like the more we add to the site the more things tend to break something...

Is anyone else having the problem where in chrome when you click the link I provided it does not load the image on the default page?? (Update; omg just realized under projects the word thing overlaps the other word thing.. dammit...) Also under projects it's not showing our project that we're working on! Ahh!.....sigh update 2: can someone test the link above in multiple browsers to see if that image not loading only affects chrome or all browsers that would be greatly appreciated!

http://www.fmedesigndevelopment.com/ It's under construction still; But, I think it's starting to come together nicely.. The photos will be updated with more professional looking ones, apparently my lawyer has advised me to do so.. This is for my company that I have started up. It's basically 5 members so far and we do game development. We use unity and all have roughly 3 years of experience. Any opinions, advice, suggestions, improvements, ideas, changes, etc.. Are all welcomed gracefully. =)

Alright, we'll try plugging him into the network either with wifi or an ethernet cable. If both PC's work then it's the powerline adapter thing that is causing the issue.. Also, select best answer when problem is solved.

Try updating the BIOS or simply reinstall the existing bios (if no new ones available) via update. And see if it fixes your issue.

If he is on powerline (that's ethernet through power outlet?) then try putting him cable or wifi and see if his internet still gets cut off if not then my guess is when you start using your PC it draws so much power from the wall it literally deteriorates the signal being sent to your brothers PC VIA powerline to the point of it not being usable. This is kinda sorta a common problem with that kind of tech that no one really talks about...

Did that ssd fix your problem? Please select best answer or simply update your thread saying that your problem has been resolved.

1, How is your network setup. 2, Is network prioritization on. 3, is their an IP conflict. 4, do you have packet loss issues on his PC? (use www.pingtest.net only works with IE like 11? Requires java) 5, what is your internet bandwidth (as in speed)

You should specify if this is for a desktop or a laptop.. The link u gave is for a laptop and everyone is posting stuff for a desktop.

I use link aggregation on my desktop to router. But I have it setup so that 1 is dedicated for down link and the second is a dedicated upload link. This only really helps slightly if you stream while gaming..

Thanks, I was able to simply type the command directly into the DD-WRT firmware; There is a section that allows you to type commands in. I saved it so if the router reboots or whatever the command will always be thier. (Under Administrator section their is a tab called commands, and that's where you enter it.) Added that note < incase someone come along and has same issue..

Here is a few images I just screen shotted... I only shot what I thought may be useful. All the other pages I have disabled or didn't have any useful info.. Also, do I need to increase this on the DD-WRT Router or the Main Asus one? Or both... Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler

I don't think I have that configured?? http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Peer-to-Peer_(P2P)_Throttling is a link I found; Under QOS where it says bulk priority for p2p if I set that up it should fix my issue correct? (Update: ..maybe it was the port's number I needed to increase?) I set to default here is a pic.. Spoiler (update 2 I don't think I know how to increase the iptable.. I don't fully understand when you say connection (states) is that when too many devices are connected/connecting to the router and it doesn't have enough IP's to hand out to said devices..? Or is it when too many packets of data are being sent and the buffer size is too small...)

<4>kernel: ip_conntrack: table full, dropping packet. <4>kernel: NET: 15 messages suppressed. <4>kernel: ip_conntrack: table full, dropping packet. <4>kernel: NET: 12 messages suppressed. After awhile of messages it just ends connection on the port to the switch; If you want I can post entire log output... But it's quite large..

I have tried different ethernet cables both I made cat6 and a store bought one cat5e.. same result after about 20min of maxing out that 100mb/10mb connection using about 10 ports the cable between the DD-WRT router and the TP-Link switch just dies. I've checked the logs and according to the router it overloaded the port and simply cut connection. Only fix is to unplug power from TP-Link and plug it back in.. It is running at full duplex. Also, this is a cheap 16port switch that has zero software to control it.. Update: Funny thing if I don't max out the connection it will function just fine....so basically I can either hope we don't max out a 200MB Down with a 20MB up connection on the TP-Link switch and everything will be fine; Or I probably should just go buy a freaking Gig capable switch...

Well, I've tested the 16 port TP link switch and it does support link aggregation with the netgear running dd-wrt firmware. So I am able to get 200MB Down and 20mb up. 1. Yes I am using the DD-WRT router that's about 250 feet from the house in the garage as essentially a second router; got a 2.4 + 5Ghz wireless client running. 2. The reason the DD-WRT router is connected directly to the ASUS one is because both support the gig link speed connections and allows my 300MB down connection to work better with the wifi/lan connections... It would be less beneficial for me to connect the 1gbps router to a 100mb switch which would then be connected to the 1gbps asus port... (The wireless clients would suffer if it was the other way + it would be limiting that entire network end to 100mb... I would like to get a better switch but, I don't want to order one due to shipping delays/weather over here... So if you can find a good Gig switch at walmart, homedepot, bestbuy, etc. Then I can see if there's one in stock at my local store..

Probably the modem, good modems these days you need to buy.. I use a Arris with an asus router + I use cat6 ethernet cable and my ISP uses COAX to deliver my service. When I signed up they gave me a DOCS2.0 modem when it was required to have a DOCS3.0 to even get the speeds I was paying for... And I hate to say it but this is a common thing for them to do. So yeah I bet the modem u have now doesn't even support the full bandwidth you're paying for if it's one they gave you.. Honestly if I were you I'd get a modem that supports your internet speed + make sure it's a DOCS3.0 and I'll guarantee you your ping will drop to like the 20's.. here is one for like 70? it's like a step down from mine..